DG AW vs. UQW Showdown (as toppers)

Acura went to the shop. It was confirmed that the solenoids/sensors aren’t the issue, meaning there’s a 98% it’s a stretched chain (we both agreed based on that price there’s no need to open the engine at this time as $2500 isn’t happening. This auto service place is very trusty but also thorough and not the cheapest, but guarantee everything... $2500 to do the new chain tensioner, guides and whatever else. However he would much rather find me a used, lower mileage engine due to numerous experiences with Honda engines where something similar was fixed just to find out months later that something else was causing the issues... and my Acura already eats a decent amount of oil.

Hes is going to look for used/rebuilt engines in case I want to go that route. In the meantime he suggested I just drive the car (unless I really want to try the DIY fix) and thinks the power disparity may fix itself once oil pressure is back and the check engine light will probably go out for awhile once that happens... the risk? Of course having the stretched chain skip, causing piston/valve collision, killing the engine, in which case in his opinion I’m just back to where I am now: needing a new motor. In his opinion, I might be able to get a year or more out of the car until this issue makes the car undriveable, but thats obviously just a hopeful guess.

Any thoughts from anyone? In the near term I’m probably going to drive it and see if the light goes away.
 
acuRAS82 --

Well, not the greatest news.. :(
My good friends that have been selling used Honda and Acura vehicles for over 50 years and still going strong, have always found ways to secure - Used - engines from Japan..
The reason - engines in Japan used to be mandatory removed at I believe, they said, 50,000 miles!

They would always get great engines, of course not even used or opened up and messed with, all the time..
Made it much more cost effective to install these in the used, higher mileage vehicles they found here in California, and everyone wins...

Does this mechanic import these used engines, or does he know another shop that does ?? I would at least explore that avenue..

I have purchased many used Honda and Acura vehicles over those 50 years from my buddies (for my kids, their friends, etc.,) and have - Never - had an oil burner in any of them.. These guys once had a 300,000 mile Honda on their lot that did not burn oil, and it got sold no problem...
Good Luck !
DanF
 
This Acura is my 3rd Honda, the two others were 89 and 94 Accords. They never burned oil, but the 04-07 TSX is known for it to the point that supposedly Honda would not warranty this issue unless it was burning more than 1.5qt per 3000mi. I read that on a TSX forum.

Anyways, the shop I chose to go to for this is pretty reputable in the area and they give 3 year / 36,000mi warranties for all their work, but overall I trust they would only install a good engine from somewhere trustworthy. This isn’t the shop I go to for small issues, just the bigger, important issues (such as a new clutch last year).

Update: She’s back home and I took her for a ride tonight. The power is back at the moment, check engine light is still on. Overall, I have faith it may run for awhile until I can get a good engine deal.

It’ll rain tonight and tomorrow so will be able to get some un-washed beading comparisons of the spray sealants tomorrow.
 
acuRAS82- Thanks for explaining.

Won`t you be worried about the car always getting you there? I just couldn`t live with that "could happen at any time.." factor.
 
acuRAS82- Thanks for explaining.

Won`t you be worried about the car always getting you there? I just couldn`t live with that "could happen at any time.." factor.
I’ll likely only use this car for short trips when my wife is around, for the time being. Worst case, Uber has my back... but I won’t be driving my son in this car too much (unless really close to home).

So I guess my love for the car overcomes my worry about breaking down... but won’t be driving it to any critical appointments. :)


UPDATE: Beading shots from this morning. More to come later (lots of rain expected). Note that my car was parked sideways on a hill so the horizontal surfaces are a little screwy (sideways beads) and I didn’t focus on them at this time.

Passenger side UQW:
IMG_4740.JPGIMG_4744.JPG

Drivers side DGAW:
IMG_4741.JPGIMG_4743.JPG
 
As promised, a few more beading pictures, after last night and early morning rain. The car is not clean, but not filthy either. One drive in the rain and otherwise mostly sitting outside for the last week.

The beads on the drivers side (DGAW) are more uniform and better rounded than the passenger side UQW, IMO, but otherwise both are doing their thing.

IMG_4758.JPGIMG_4759.JPGIMG_4762.JPG

UQW up closer
IMG_4760.JPGIMG_4769.JPGIMG_4764.JPG

DGAW up closer
IMG_4761.JPGIMG_4770.JPGIMG_4763.JPG


Then I took the car for a 10 minute ride near my house on 35 mph roads. Avg speed: 40mph. Top speed: 50mph for 3-5 seconds. The DGAW side shed more water than UQW.
IMG_4772.JPGIMG_4773.JPGIMG_4771.JPG

UQW side hood:
IMG_4774.JPG

DGAW side hood:
IMG_4775.JPG


DGAW is outperforming UQW. I’m inclined to apply a second coat of each after washing tonight. I’ll likely use D156 from my gallon rather than the bottom of the UQW bottle. I’d like to see if D156 performance more closely matches DGAW, being that the UQW may be old and slightly degraded from sitting a long time with low quantity.
 
acuRAS82- Heh heh, for a guy like me, you`re introducing a Confounding Variable when you consider the age of that UQW! Mine has almost gotta be older than yours :o

Your comparison between the DGAW and the UQW makes me feel OK about preferring the OCW on paint..and/but I`ll agree that the UQW leaves a little something to be desired when it comes to "water blowing off and taking the dirt with it", even if I only use the stuff on trim.

Oh, and thanks for explaining about your willingness to drive it despite the chance of a breakdown...different people have different, uhm...Thresholds of Concern and we`re pretty risk-averse for people who are driving what`re now pretty old cars by some standards (no, I still don`t think the `93 Audi is even broken-in yet). Heh heh, too many Instructors shouting "if the car dies, you die!"
 
I washed today with Mckees SiO2 Auto Wash. I consider it a good cleaner, as it’s meant for coatings (removing film, restoring a clean surface). Although it lays down a minuscule amount of SiO2, I’ve never seen it change traits of my LSP (negligible gloss in my opinion which Nick has reiterated).

Prior to washing I rinsed the hood and checked out sheeting on the uncleared paint. The DGAW crushed UQW, with the latter taking about 5x amount of time for water to clear the hood. Here’s a few action shots I attempted (DGAW on the right, UQW on the left):
IMG_4781.JPGIMG_4783.JPG
IMG_4785.JPG
IMG_4786.JPG

Later there was an interesting observation, but didn’t take a picture (because I don’t want to dry my hands over and over during car washes):
after washing and rinsing the hood, the sheeting comparison was much closer. DGAW sheeted faster than previously, but UQW was close behind, within a few seconds of sheeting the same amount. In other words, cleaning the hood made UQW look like an LSP again even if still behind the DGAW.

Does this, along with poor beading earlier, show that UQW just really holds on to dirt more than DGAW? Possibly. I know both LSPs we’re still present because the PA combo underneath would have looked like warp speed sheeting in comparison.


Anyways, I washed all the car except the roof. I let water splatter on the roof during rinsing. The sun was out, this was my water spot test.

Below are some resulting water spots, after letting the droplets sit for about 30 mins.

the DGAW side:
IMG_4788.JPG

and the UQW side:
IMG_4791.JPG

A swipe of N-914 easily removed water spots for both LSPs.
IMG_4792.JPGIMG_4793.JPG
I acknowledge there is 3 month old Cosmic Spritz underneath which could have contributed to defense against water spot etching, but I consider the ease of the spots wiping away to be a win for both spray sealants.

Since we all like to use drying aids after each wash, I decided to reapply each LSP in its respective side.
NOTE: I didn’t switch to D156, I’m giving UQW another chance as I don’t want to believe it’s degraded in the bottle.
I applied both pretty heavy to ensure full coverage.

Round 2 tests will resume, but in the meantime, heres a couple beauty shots of each newly applied 2nd coat UQW passenger side, DGAW drivers side:
IMG_4795.JPGIMG_4794.JPG

IMG_4797.JPGIMG_4796.JPG
 
I want to share an additional observation:
Sealants on this silver Acura paint causes the car paint to change like a chameleon, based on what the sky is doing. This doesn’t seem to jump out at me with carnauba or SiO2 LSPs, but with sealants, especially UQW and DGAW, it catches my eye all the time. Take a look at the last 3 threads that have attachments included. There’s a huge color difference from cloudy/rainy to partly cloudy/post-rain to sunny/blue skies.

These are the finer things in detailing/LSPs that I really enjoy.
 
acuRAS82- Huh, that`s interesting about the color changing with the light, I`ve never noticed that with the OEM finish of my silvers (the Crown Vic`s Moonstone does it, but that`s, uhm.. a feature of that paint), although the diffs where areas have/haven`t been repainted can sometimes do it.

Does this, along with poor beading earlier, show that UQW just really holds on to dirt more than DGAW? Possibly.

heh heh, figures that I`m using the UQW primarily on the lowermost plastics of the A8, which get dirty faster than the rest of it :o Actually, come to think of it...doing the "D" pillars of the Tahoe resulted in that too the time I tried UQW instead of my usual Sonus Akrylic Spritz (the pillars are KSG`ed). Not as bad as Garry Dean`s Beyond Infinity Sealant (anybody remember that one?!?), but enough that I could notice. FWIW, I did *not* ever notice that with OCW.
 
I don`t mess with spray Aquawax anymore. Just use Duragloss rinseless wash with aquawax and bam done. Lasts a couple weeks between washes.
 
Update 9/14/2019: Added 4th and final coats of these to the Acura (just wanted to finish my UQW bottle so I can eventually dig into my D156 gallon).

Not much rain/beading to report... the little there has been I saw no difference in beads. The car is parked somewhat under a tall tree and gets pollen-ish spots, leaf stains and sticky spots (but not sap, just junk that comes down during rain). No water spots or etching from the miscellaneous junk... everything comes off easily with WW, RW, or regular wash. Both products protect very well in that manner.
 
acuRAS82- I`m sure curious whether you`ll find a diff between the UQW and D156..not that I`m sure I want to know if you do! (I`m kinda stuck using UQW unless I want to pay for it.)
 
acuRAS82- I`m sure curious whether you`ll find a diff between the UQW and D156..not that I`m sure I want to know if you do! (I`m kinda stuck using UQW unless I want to pay for it.)
I did find the differences as noted earlier in the thread. But since the 3rd (and now 4th) coat, they seem pretty neck and neck... but then again we haven’t experienced much rain at all in the past month. I don’t see either collecting more dust versus the other. The car is outside 24/7 nowadays.

Now that I`ve sort of “maxed out” the applications (4 coats in a bit less than a month), I’m going to pay more attention this matchup, particularly as weeks go by and we get more rain and more pollen/dust from fall foliage. I hope to follow these through until one or both noticeably degrade so I can declare a longevity(/durability) winner, among other things.
 
acuRAS82- OK, maybe they aren`t really functionally different after all.

Your "4 coats in <month" is more than my stuff usually gets (using it as a Drying Aid; I seldom wash that often except maybe in winter), but I`m redoing the UQW every time I do wash, always seems to need it, but maybe that`s because I`m using it primarily on plastics. The OCW I use on the paint doesn`t need redone quite that often (but it`s close).
 
Update 9/23/2019:
It rained today and I was able to focus on my hood while driving 40-55mph down back roads .

Beads on the drivers side sheeted off at 40-55mph faster and more so than the passenger side UQW. I wouldn’t call it a blowout, but it was a solid 2 touchdown victory. Sorry, the picture isn’t great, but you can take my word for it. After a 20 minute ride, I would guess the DG AW side had cleared 85% of water while UQW had cleared 80% of water.

Adjustments.JPG
Adjustments.JPGAdjustments.JPG
 
acuRAS82- Heh heh, oh boy...I sure don`t want to learn that the DG AW is superior since I have that free lifetime supply of UQW! I`ll try to convince myself I wouldn`t appreciate the apparent diff in performance :o Fortunately for me I`m just using it primarily on areas that are nasty after any rain anyhow (lower valences/etc.).

Wonder how long they`ll last now that you have a few coats on there (in quick succession).
 
acuRAS82- Heh heh, oh boy...I sure don`t want to learn that the DG AW is superior since I have that free lifetime supply of UQW! I`ll try to convince myself I wouldn`t appreciate the apparent diff in performance :o Fortunately for me I`m just using it primarily on areas that are nasty after any rain anyhow (lower valences/etc.).

Wonder how long they`ll last now that you have a few coats on there (in quick succession).
I wouldn’t worry about it, they are both classics that will never go out of style due to ease of use, drying aid benefits and the yummy look they provide. The car looks awesome (both sides) after washing.

The longevity now due to the 4 coats is what I’m really watching for at this point. AW beads and cleats water a bit better but w/e. Will be interesting to see how long each lasts with the car sitting outside 24/7, getting washed about once a week on average, even though this last wash was a bit longer.
 
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