DG AW vs. UQW Showdown (as toppers)

[acuRAS82]

The Acura is now my 2nd car, and this is a good opportunity to do some random testing with it. The car has 2-3 month old PA Cosmic Spritz + PA HG. It was also maintained until mid-July with my Merlin Elixir PA CosmicSpritz/HG mix... that no doubt impacted durability a bit and kept the shine high.

Point of all that info is that the following test will be done on top of the PA spray base. I expect both DG AW and UQW to be fine on top. Any results read here should consider the SiO2 base underneath (this is not a prepped surface test. For anyone who finds this pointless, I’m cool with that. There’s better threads/tests out there. This was just something fun I tried on a whim today.

I applied on 8/21 after a N-914 RW. Although I was spraying soon after rinsing, I pretty much consider this a dry test, as the water drops were drying fast and this wasn’t a normal drying aid application. Either way, the playing field is the same for both contestants.

Passenger side is UQW; driver side is DG AW. Below are some pics right after, not that I expect pictures to show any difference. Key observation, the car is shiny. I tried to do side by sides of each angle.














I’ll keep this thread updated with beading, possible additional applications (if so, it would be in the near term only to improve coverage) and/or longevity.

 

[acuRAS82]

Some morning dew beading pics. Side mirrors are control (still PA combo) and have larger beads. Both the spray sealants have very tiny beads. There are some wipe marks where UQW was applied; none where DG AW was applied. I applied these the same way, same effort, same time of day, separate towel for wipe off.

Post-Application Advantage: DG AW

Side mirror control (PA) beads (easy to make out the actual bead droplets):


Drivers side DG AW:


Passenger side UQW (streak marks on trunk):


Trunk side-by-side (zoom on right side for horizontal streaks):

 

[Billy Jack]

Subscribed for updates.
Thanks for doing the testing.
I have 4 jugs of products I use as drying aids, D156 (UQW), DG Aquawax, DG Rinseless diluted 1:8 and Beadmaker.
Which one I grab depends on my whim at the time.
I live in Pittsburgh also, South suburbs to be exact, so I`m dealing with the same current conditions as you: random showers followed by bright sunshine.
I`m more interested in protection from waterspotting and bird droppings on my Black DD than incremental improvement in gloss, so I`ll be watching your updates with interest.

Bill

 

[acuRAS82]

Subscribed for updates.
Thanks for doing the testing.
I have 4 jugs of products I use as drying aids, D156 (UQW), DG Aquawax, DG Rinseless diluted 1:8 and Beadmaker.
Which one I grab depends on my whim at the time.
I live in Pittsburgh also, South suburbs to be exact, so I`m dealing with the same current conditions as you: random showers followed by bright sunshine.
I`m more interested in protection from waterspotting and bird droppings on my Black DD than incremental improvement in gloss, so I`ll be watching your updates with interest.

Bill

I’m in the North Hills burbs. I’ll certainly keep track of water spotting as I go. The car spends about 90% of time outside (only garaged if I’m detailing it at night).

I was very close to using BM as a third partner in the test, but I’ve used it multiple times lately with results not nearly as special as others are getting... so I essentially decided I don’t want to do the first loaded application and went with the two old classics I haven’t touched in awhile.

 

[Accumulator]

acuRAS82- Interesting about the streaking from the UQW, I`d just die..

Luckily, I never had it do that for me, but I`ve only used it on paint a few times (usually reserving it for exterior trim).

 

[acuRAS82]

Accumulator, it was only streaking that could be seen once condensation appeared. I’ve seen some other sprays result in this if I’m rushing to spray wax my car late at night in poor garage lighting. It’s no doubt do to me not buffing thorough enough, but was worth mentioning in this competition since AW was applied with the exact same effort and speed... or could be UQW doesn’t like sitting on top of SiO2 as much? Either way, after the initial fog/condensation streaks are noticed, I never seem to see them again. Perhaps water from the condensation is enough to “clean” the streaks or maybe I always wash before the next condensation.

Update with no pics: it rained last night, early morning there was still water all over the car. Tighter, uniform beads on the AW side. Larger, more uneven and variable sized beads on the UQW side. I apologize I did not get a picture.

The UQW is maybe old and past it’s prime. After 1 or 2 applications the bottle will be empty and I will switch to D156 I have in a gallon. Maybe that will come out a bit better..... but unfortunately (read next thread).....

 

[Accumulator]

acuRAS82- Ah, OK...thanks for the further explanation. That sounds kinda like the temporary..streaking?..issues, at any rate...that I sometimes get when I pull in/out of the shop (when temps are different inside/outside).

Also appreciate the update about how the AW is still beading nicely and the UQW is not. (Not that I`m gonna replace the UQW since I get it free from the in-laws ).

AND...Hey, I thought that UQW and D156 were the same thing only in "Consumer"/Pro packaging! Is there really a functional diff (not that I really want to know if there is ).

 

[acuRAS82]

Potentially and probably very bad news for the Acura: yesterday the check engine light and VSA (stability control) lights came on, and power, especially at low RPMs is greatly reduced. Thought maybe it was fuel injection related, but got diagnostic code P0341 ended up being the culprit after a trip to Advanced Autoparts free diagnostic checkup. CAM shaft sensor yada yada. Using skynet I learn that high mileage first generation TSXs (as well as some other older Honda’s) has this pop up quite a bit and 9/10 times its the timing chain stretching. I got the car home ASAP because if the chain slips, pistons meet valves and engine is quickly destroyed.

Im hearing from old threads that replacing the chain, tensioner, etc. is a $1k-2k job for a mechanic, mostly labor, back in 2010 money. Chains cost $200-300. Hopefully I hear news Monday that I’m one of the lucky 10%, otherwise this car won’t be getting repaired by me (she’s worth around $3000) or I make replacing the chain myself as my new hobby for the remainder of summer, most likely screwing up badly because I’m not a mechanic and have never gone near any engine work.

Anyways, sorry to vent here. That car was my baby for 11 years. Not sure how long she will be in my possession, but I will keep statusing this thread while it’s on my property and in my possession.

 

[acuRAS82]

acuRAS82- Ah, OK...thanks for the further explanation. That sounds kinda like the temporary..streaking?..issues, at any rate...that I sometimes get when I pull in/out of the shop (when temps are different inside/outside).

Also appreciate the update about how the AW is still beading nicely and the UQW is not. (Not that I`m gonna replace the UQW since I get it free from the in-laws ).

AND...Hey, I thought that UQW and D156 were the same thing only in "Consumer"/Pro packaging! Is there really a functional diff (not that I really want to know if there is ).

Yes, I believe the streaking of UQW is temporary, and I do also see similar when pulling my car out of the garage for a big temperature swing. Good clarification!

I consider UQW and D156 to be the same functional thing with different smell. All I meant above was that the UQW may have spoiled a bit or lost potency since it’s been sitting in a near empty UQW bottle for a few years. The D156 in the gallon is unopened and probably much fresher, so maybe truer results may come from it.

 

[Accumulator]

acuRAS82- And thank *you* for *that* clarification OK, sounds like the streaking and diffs between the two aren`t anything significant after all. Speaking of which...

IMO, if you really like it that much it might be worth fixing it. I myself *NEVER* put any stock in the argument that "the car`s not worth fixing based on what it`s worth". Unless you`re selling it, I figure that its market value means nothing. IF you`d rather put the fix-$ into something else, then cool, but if you`d end up wishing you`d kept it...then fix it and do that. E.g., my `93 Audi is worth about $1K, but I put obscene amounts of $ into fixing it when necessary because I *LOVE* it and there`s nothing I`d rather have. But OK, heh heh, that`s just me and it`s easy for me to spend your money

 

[acuRAS82]

Accumulator... I love what you’re saying and thanks for the support. I’m devising excuses to rattle off to my wife as to why it’ll be worth it to keep. The final price tag will determine whether I think there’s a shot for my argument or not. Her rebuttals: Last month it was a power steering leak. The month before it was the power window actuator.

What I have going against me I just bought a family hauling muscle car last month for a significantly higher price than her Audi Q5 was a couple years ago.. Had I not just gotten a new car, I would triple my chances for convincing her.

Note: Not that it matters but we both work, so we always discuss large financial decisions together. I condone this even if only one of us brought home money.

 

[Stokdgs]

Potentially and probably very bad news for the Acura: yesterday the check engine light and VSA (stability control) lights came on, and power, especially at low RPMs is greatly reduced. Thought maybe it was fuel injection related, but got diagnostic code P0341 ended up being the culprit after a trip to Advanced Autoparts free diagnostic checkup. CAM shaft sensor yada yada. Using skynet I learn that high mileage first generation TSXs (as well as some other older Honda’s) has this pop up quite a bit and 9/10 times its the timing chain stretching. I got the car home ASAP because if the chain slips, pistons meet valves and engine is quickly destroyed.

Im hearing from old threads that replacing the chain, tensioner, etc. is a $1k-2k job for a mechanic, mostly labor, back in 2010 money. Chains cost $200-300. Hopefully I hear news Monday that I’m one of the lucky 10%, otherwise this car won’t be getting repaired by me (she’s worth around $3000) or I make replacing the chain myself as my new hobby for the remainder of summer, most likely screwing up badly because I’m not a mechanic and have never gone near any engine work.

Anyways, sorry to vent here. That car was my baby for 11 years. Not sure how long she will be in my possession, but I will keep statusing this thread while it’s on my property and in my possession.

Amigo !
So sorry this had to happen..

Are you sure it is just not the cam or crank sensor ? I saw a video on the crank sensor and it is really easy to R&R.. Perhaps the cam sensor is also ??

If not, maybe this video is a little idea of what it takes to R&R the timing chain = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wulDUkpokjY

Good luck with this !
Dan F

 

[acuRAS82]

Amigo !
So sorry this had to happen..

Are you sure it is just not the cam or crank sensor ? I saw a video on the crank sensor and it is really easy to R&R.. Perhaps the cam sensor is also ??

If not, maybe this video is a little idea of what it takes to R&R the timing chain = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wulDUkpokjY

Good luck with this !
Dan F

Thanks so much! I would be ecstatic if it was just a sensor... I pessimistically keep that as 10% likelihood. I haven’t ruled out replacing the chain either if it comes down to “what else do I have lose?”. The more videos/tutorials I can see, the more I can get a sense of whether it’s a realistic option.

 

[Stokdgs]

Thanks so much! I would be ecstatic if it was just a sensor... I pessimistically keep that as 10% likelihood. I haven’t ruled out replacing the chain either if it comes down to “what else do I have lose?”. The more videos/tutorials I can see, the more I can get a sense of whether it’s a realistic option.

Good, hope it`s as easy as a sensor any day..
When you watch that video, please do NOT think it is a good idea to -Turn - the Camshafts with an open-end wrench!!! I cannot even imagine doing something like that in a zillion lifetimes...
I believe last time I did anything like this, I turned the engine with a breaker bar + 1/2" drive extension that had a socket that fit over the Crankshaft pulley Nut..
But then, that was a good-old-Bowtie-small block...
Good luck ! Hope its the easier of the messy options..

OH -- Look at this ! It`s a K20 engine, dont know if that is yours or not but it Is a Honda 4 cylinder --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6ez2KneQHg

Dan F

 

[acuRAS82]

Good, hope it`s as easy as a sensor any day..
When you watch that video, please do NOT think it is a good idea to -Turn - the Camshafts with an open-end wrench!!! I cannot even imagine doing something like that in a zillion lifetimes...
I believe last time I did anything like this, I turned the engine with a breaker bar + 1/2" drive extension that had a socket that fit over the Crankshaft pulley..
But then, that was a good-old-Bowtie-small block...
Good luck ! Hope its the easier of the messy options..

OH -- Look at this ! It`s a K20 engine, dont know if that is yours or not but it Is a Honda 4 cylinder --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6ez2KneQHg

Dan F

Thanks again. My engine that experiences this problem in the 04 TSX is a K24.

 

[Stokdgs]

Thanks again. My engine that experiences this problem in the 04 TSX is a K24.

I looked at Wiki and it says that the only difference between the K20 and K24 engine is deck height, so I think it would be safe to say that looking at the work done on either will be very similar..
Hope and pray for just a sensor change.
In my experiences with other engines, like German engines, they seem to lose the cam sensor just because, sometimes.. Way easier to replace this than of course a dang timing chain..

Imagine the poor Audi person that finds out the timing chain on their Audi is Behind the engine between the engine and transmission...

Labor to remove all the modular stuff on top of that baby, remove engine and transmission, separate them to replace the part, put them all back together AND reinstall, replace all the modules on top, and get it running = over 40 hours labor at the shop I worked out of

I saw some poor kids at the Shop that had this nightmare happen to their beautiful, black Audi Allroad, and they had to give it up, because they were never going to be able to afford to fix it..

DanF

 

[acuRAS82]

^^ That sounds like a nightmare... my wife has an Audi. Hopefully Acura is placed a bit easier to get to which it appears to be, but still a PITA it seems, and labor is what makes it so costly. The chain kit costs like $200.

 

[Stokdgs]

Thanks again. My engine that experiences this problem in the 04 TSX is a K24.

Got it ! The K20 and K24 are supposed to be very similar except 1 has a little taller deck height than the other..
There are supposed to be a couple other differences in each such as 1 has Vtec only on the Intake valves and 1 can have Vtec on both intake and exhaust valves..
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

Yeah, sigh...lots of otherwise fine Audis go on the block around here over required maintenance that the owners can`t/won`t afford Hey, that`s how I got my `93, and its original owner has more money than God; she simply said "enough already!" about $15K from the finish line after spending about that much getting it almost right.

acuRAS82- Oh yeah, Accumulatorette and I make our decisions together too. Maintaining her A8 costs plenty now and then, but it`s her Forever Car so whatever it takes, well...it takes, so maybe that factors in with her being so reasonable about mine!

Logic regarding a Big Repair Bill: That [whatever-it-is] that needs redone lasted from new-now. So fixing it now oughta mean it won`t be an issue again for a good long time. How far would that Repair $ really go towards a replacement by comparison? A few thousand sounds like a bundle to fix something, but it`s easy to spend that much on a lease that leaves you with nothing after a while or a payment on some other car (that`ll wear out too) that you might not like as much.

 

[acuRAS82]

See you soon, and good luck tomorrow