Need help with Duragloss order

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nathansdad04

New member
I want to order some DG products to keep my 06 Black Mustang looking great.
What products do I need? I'm going to clay before the DG stuff. My paint is in near perfect shape so no need for scratch removal stuff(yet, anyway).
Is there a certain order to apply the products? I'm assuming that I should get #601,101,104,105,111 and also AW and detail spray.
 
nathansdad04 said:
I want to order some DG products to keep my 06 Black Mustang looking great.
What products do I need? I'm going to clay before the DG stuff. My paint is in near perfect shape so no need for scratch removal stuff(yet, anyway).
Is there a certain order to apply the products? I'm assuming that I should get #601,101,104,105,111 and also AW and detail spray.
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You don't want all those .
You need 601-105-921FC&S-951Auqawax
Prep is the important part be sure you have it looking good before applying the 105 because it has no abrasives to improve the finish
I would consider 901 CWC concentrated car wash it is really good.
 
601-105-921FC&S-951Auqawax like black bart suggests is going to give you a great look ,i used the #111 on my car instead of the #105 and another member AL-53 has used both and says the look of #105 is slightly better in his opinion
i think you will be happy with the look of the products black bart suggests DG is holing up great on looks, slickness and beading at 10 weeks on my car, also the #901 car wash is a excellent product. I also tried the #471 bug remover and was quite happy with the results good luck and keep us posted :bigups
 
nathansdad04 said:
I don't need the paste wax? Since #105 is a polish, can it be layered?
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YES since it has no abrasives you can layer it with out removing the first coat. Wait 12 to 24 hours between coats depending on temp and humidity Aqua-wax should be used once every 30 days after a wash it will really ramp up the shine and it replaces anything that was lost during the time between applications of wax. The AW leaves the surface really slick and wet looking.
Here is 105 on my Black vette.
Duragloss on Vette - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Click to enlarge.
 
Just to get this straight....

Do I apply all the layers of #105(over the course of a couple days) and THEN use the AW from then on?
BTW: I may have some small fine scratches afterall.....do I need anything else to tackle these?
 
If you are using the PC, than I suggest using the Menzerna PO106FF to remove the fine scratches, follow by 601, than put on 3 layers of 105 (over a few days perhaps) and subsequently maintain with AW.
 
I thought that if you looked close you would see some swirls BLACK shows everything. Hard to give advice not knowing what you have but if you don't have a PC then you need to buy one. Don't matter what LSP you use you need a PC to get rid of the swirls. If you have a PC and you have the Manzerna FPII that will do a good job but if you need to buy a polish then buy 671 along with the 601-105-FC&S and AW
No need to pay shipping charges on some other product. DG has a flat rate shipping so you can order all you want and it will only cost $4.95 for shipping.
I buy mine in the gallon containers same shipping but a lot better price per ounce
You should Wash then use a claybar then polish with 671 using a PC when it looks like a mirror apply the 601 do not wipe the 601 off apply 105 over it.
Wait 24 hours and apply another coat of 105 While some will apply more DuraGloss recommends no more than two coats. After applying 105 if you cant wait for it to cure and need to drive it then when you have time wash and then apply the second coat. You can apply the second coat anytime just make sure the car is clean. Aquawax is put on while the car is wet after a wash but it can be used on a dry car also. It is concentrated and since their is no water to dilute it you will want to spread it out thin.
In my opinion AW is one of the best products on the market. It is really easy to use leaves an awesome gloss and cost much less than most other products.
 
Here is what you will want t0 order and the process to get a great finish....


1. #601 PBA bonding agent..this you apply to finish and leave on..do not buff off...

2. 105..Total Performance Polish...really a sealant but called a polish..and is layerable...apply coats 12-24 hours apart..3 gives the best deep wet look....

3. Aquawax..a spray sealant..use monthly after a wash..best results are on dry paint....a little goes a long ways...1-2 sprays per panel in a sweeping motion..thats it..no need to drench it on...lite sprays...work it in with a microfiber towel and wipe with a dry Micro..

3. Fast Clean and Shine...a QD with a cleaner... also some protectant in it also...good for bird bombs...fingerprints...lite dust....both Aquawax and Fast Clean and Shine can be used on glass and any part of the car..will not stain trim...

4. the Duragloss Shampoo...best shampoo for the system..this is your option...but does make the system shine...

Process to achive your Maximum shine...

clay your paint....

polish the paint if needed....Menzerna..3M..PB's...or any good polish with lite abrasives depending on the scratches or marring you have...

appy the 601...let haze....leave it on the paint ..do not buff off...

Apply the 105..use a quarter size amount at first...spread it out thin...then decrease your size amount as your pad gets loaded with 105 and spread it thin... .let haze for 30-45 minutes....buff off...use a nice Micro...

wait at least 12-24 hours for next coat....you can wait a few days if you want..but at least 12-24 hours...get your 3 coats on....

after your first wash..apply your Aquawax....stuff is so easy to use...spray on litely..wipe off....then use monthly...

the Duragloss shampoo is one of the best I have used...seems to really work good with the Duragloos products..leaves a nice shine and is slick as a greased pig......thats your option...but do not use harsh shampoos...

use the Fast Clean and Shine when needed..bird bombs..rain spots...fingerprints...or when you just want to bring the shine up a notch...

follow this program and you will be amazed at your paint....take your time..do not rush....

I put every thing on by hand...PBA and 105...again..a little goes a long ways..put on thin...I spray the pad with aquawax once at the beginning when doing the 105 but just a very slight mist...just to sorta prime the pad...do not soak it..just a slite dampness barely...helps getting the 105 to spread easy and far...

you should be able to do your car with a half ounce or less...remember..very thin...it will be hard to see it on..but it is there....


hope this helps..

PS..use good Microfiber Towels..or you will swirl your car...any one of the sponcers here have the towels you need...get plush...and do not rush...the Duragloss comes off very easy..no need to bear down with a hard pressure to remove it..nice and easy....

AL
 
What is a "PC"? If it's a Porter cable polisher...I'd be to scared to use it. After looking at my paint...I DO have some fine scratches and some faint spider webbing.
Unless I change my mind...I'd like to be able to polish without using powertools.
I'm assuming that the DG comes with applicator pads, but I need to order a couple spares and a good microfiber towel( I currently use a chamois for drying). Could you recommend where to get a good towel and pads. I've read that certain microfiber is better than others, so I don't want to buy a towel that scratches.
 
Duragloss products do not come with app pads. Any over the counter foam pad will work for the 105. MF towels are still bing debated... Personally I use the store bought MF's from sams,big lots or target for door jambs,rims or any other "dirty"jobs. My 06 black TL only gets MF's bought from the online stores. If you are just starting out I would suggest buying a starter or sample kit....they usually contain a waffle weave drying towel,a glass towel, a few buffing towels and a couple of all purpose towels.You will just have to shop around a little. Good luck.
 
nathansdad04 said:
What is a "PC"? If it's a Porter cable polisher...I'd be to scared to use it. After looking at my paint...I DO have some fine scratches and some faint spider webbing.
Unless I change my mind...I'd like to be able to polish without using power tools.
I'm assuming that the DG comes with applicator pads, but I need to order a couple spares and a good microfiber towel( I currently use a chamois for drying). Could you recommend where to get a good towel and pads. I've read that certain microfiber is better than others, so I don't want to buy a towel that scratches.
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Nearly everyone who bought their first PC was afraid they would damage the paint but the reason it is so popular is it is nearly impossible to harm the finish. It all depends on how good you want your car to look. if you plan on keeping a BLACK car looking good you will need to learn how to take care of it. Always use the two bucket method when washing it. DO NOTdry it with bath towels or a chamois. Use a quality waffle weave drying towel or a blower. I prefer to use a small garden blower to dry mine. With out a PC and proper washing technique you are not going to keep Black looking good.
Some use a leaf blower, I tried them but they are heavy I prefer the garden blower. Here is the kind I'm talking about
eBay: PORTABLE BLOWER /HOUSE & GARDEN -NEW IN BOX- (item 110010436238 end time Oct-15-06 19:21:31 PDT)
If you don't want to go to the trouble of this then it will be no big deal your car will look like 98 percent of the Black car on the road Shiny and full of swirls.
 
nathansdad04 said:
Ok...you've got my attention. If I was to order a PC....what exactly would I need to get regarding pads and polishes?
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Well that is kinda like asking what is the best LSP you will get a lot of different opinions. I use the Lake Country pads and I'm very happy With them. You can buy a kit from some of the detailing sites or buy the PC from Lowe's and then order the pads. I bought my PC at Lowe's for $99.00
The one from Lowe's comes with the 6 inch weight already on it most other will be the 5 inch and you will need to buy a new weight.
In time I'm sure you will want more but to get started you could get by with a LC white pad and a black one. Their are sites that have a lot of info on using the PC search then out and read this will help you feel more confident in it's use but don't worry you will not do any harm unless you do something really stupid. When it comes to detailing their are two colors Black and then all the rest because none of the others are as difficult to make them look good that is why all products are tested on Black if it works on black it will work on anything.
I own three Black vehicles I tell people that I like the challenge.
If you have never polished with a machine before I would suggest you use Meg.#80 because it is very easy to use and will do a nice job.
The #80 and a white pad will remove minor swirls and leave it looking good. I think at that point you will be happy with the look but if you want to bring it up to the next level use a black pad and Menzerna FPII then after you have it wiped off apply the 601 thin and leave it on and apply the 105 on top of the 601.
You can probably save on shipping by buying you pads the #80 and the Final polish II all from the same place.
If you have a older car you could practice on it before trying to polish your new stang.
Unless you are going to take the car to a show I would just use the #80 and a white pad and then put on the DG I'm sure you will be more than happy with the results.
 
nathansdad04 said:
Do you own the blower that you mentioned? $10.95 is a great price, but it makes me wonder WHY it's $10.95.
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I believe Neiko makes this blower and it's sold under different names, colors & specs. It's from China and most of the places selling this blower are also selling lots of Chinese tools. Some Neiko products are good and some aren't so good, but Neiko has been known to offer some high quality stuff at a great price from time to time.

It's truly amazing how a product like this can be sold at this cost and still have profit in it, but this is just one of many examples. On the last product I designed and sold, a bracket / mount that was cut from a water jet, bent, checked for accuracy in a jig, brush finished and partially assembled with a couple grommets ended up costing me close to $5.25 each for 600 pieces. While a product like this blower is very simple in concept, it's infinitely more complex in design, process & manufacturing than my simple bracket and yet they can somehow sell it for next to nothing and make money after shipping it across the ocean, trucking it to stores, dealing with and managing all the paperwork, etc! I see it all the time and I'm still amazed, but very concerned for our future if we're unable to compete in certain markets.
 
The blower I have looks like this one but I don't remember what the name was. I bought it at Homier Distribution in Huntington,Indiana. I paid $9.95 for it been using it for the past 5 years it really does a nice job and worth its weight in gold for detailing the engine. You can blow the water out of all those little places that want to hold water. After a wash i blow the water out of the mirrors and molding all the places that want to drip after you have wiped the car. I liked mine so well and was afraid that if it went bad i may not be able to buy another one at that price so I bought two more. The first one is still going strong after 5 years but I have two new one still in the box
Most people use a electric leaf blower I have one of those but it is big and heavy awkward to use. This little blower is much better for detailing it beats one of those expensive TORRO blowers by a mile you can hold it with one hand and not get tired.
 
OK...I just received my order. I got #601,105,671,AW and Fast clean.
A couple questions....
Since I don't have a PC(yet), how do I properly use the 671 to get out swirls? Do I use a MF applicator or foam pad? How to long do I rub it in?

When I buff the stuff off...do I do it in straight lines also?

Last question(for now)....should I put a light mist of water on the car when using the AW?
 
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