My PC Combo - black car

B

blownvert

New member
Well its that time to fully buff my black car. This is what Im going to use, please critique. I have used the products before besides Nattys that I just recently bought. Also pink moose. This is my whole process.





Dawn soap

Clay magic

Duragloss #901 wash

Poorboys SSR 2.5

Poorboys SSR 1

Clearkote VM

Clearkote RMG

Poorboys EX

Clearkote CMW

Poorboys Natty Blue

Clearkote Quik shine or #425





Reapply nattys 24 hours later, every week or every 4 weeks for desire look. I just want alot of coats, alot of shine and protection. Should i combine those 2 to make pink moose. I dont want to short anything, is it better to do seperate coats? I want to do it right the first time. Just to make sure, which pads for which product am i using, so i can organize it.
 
First of all, mix the VM and RMG 50/50 to make "Pink Moose" and apply that via machine. In my opinion, no need to top CMW with NB. I would stop after the CMW. CMW made NB obsolete in my aresnal, so I traded it.
 
I have never used the SSR line so I have no input there. But, wow, that is alot of lsp's. I would stick to two of those, tops.
 
Actually, that sounds like a great process. Well, right up til ya put the PNB over the CMW. ;)



I'm just wondering if the RMG would remove any benefit of the VM. I seriously wonder if RMG is "VOC compliant". That stuff smells like it has every petroleum based solvent in the world in it. I just can't imagine that it wouldn't remove/solve VM's hiding ability. Speaking of which, is VM's hiding/filling effect better than RMG's? I really like RMG alot, but haven't tried VM, and am not *really* impressed with RMG's hiding abilities.



I know Poorboy's EX bills itself as being a sealant/carnauba hibrid, but I dunno.... It *may* not adhere over RMG very well. Maybe cross the EX and the NB off the list, and just go with a single LSP?



Others disagree, but I've always felt that combining or "topping" LSP's was kinda whacky. My own personal opinion, and I have absolutely zero proof, is that most of the time the second LSP simply removes the first one, then the residues of the first prevent the second from showing it's true colors and negatively effects it's durability. Stick with one LSP, and let it do it's job. If you're not happy with how that particular LSP looks by itself, keep trying different ones til you find one that looks great all by itself and let it do it's job.



Sometimes it seems that us Autopians in our never ending efforts to make cars look the best we can get carried away... multiple glazes, multiple LSP's.. it's madness, I tell ya. ;)



I've tried multiple "topping" combinations and have never been happy with the overall results. A tried-and-true formula: One glaze, topped with one (glaze compatible) LSP. Find a glaze and an LSP that allows you to stick to that formula, and you'll get max benefit, allowing each product to do what it was designed to do without being interfered with from other products.
 
lol why did i buy nattys blue, i thought i could put it over CMW to have both of them on there. Also what pads with what? Obviously orange/yellow with the poorboys SSR line. How many coats with each product?
 
4" orange with the 2.5, and 4" white for the first application of 1, then 4" black or red for how ever many additional applications of the 1 you want to do. With a DA (or even with a rotary, really), you'll see increasingly better shine with multiple applications of your final polish. Especially if you step down to a no-bite pad.



Do as many applications with the 2.5 as it takes to remove as much of the defects as you feel comfortable with. Then you'll need at least one application of the 1 with the 4" white to clean up after the 2.5. It may even take two applications.



I would also take weekendwarrior's advice on the "pink moose". I haven't seen much about it since last year, but it's a time honored favorite of alot of the pros. I'd completely forgotten about it. One application of pink moose applied with a red or black LC foam pad by PC.



Then one coat of CMW. Let it cure for at least six hours, then lightly go over it with FK1 425 to help reduce CMW's affinity for collecting dust.



Edit: you might want to stay away from using the yellow pad with the PC. On alot of clear coats, the yellow doesn't really add that much correction, and it doesn't finish down very well. I've gotten compounding marks from yellow pads on a PC that I then had to remove wih a rotary, cause I couldn't get em out with a PC. It isn't a hard and fast rule, though, there are some clears that you can successfully use yellow foam on with a PC, but it's easier to just use the orange and not take the chance on having compound marks you can't remove. If you really need more bite than the orange foam, get yourself some purple foamed wool pads and use them instead of yellow foam.
 
I would say everything looks good. If you're going to clay and buff, though, there's no need for a Dawn wash, just use your regular car wash soap.
 
mborner said:
I would say everything looks good. If you're going to clay and buff, though, there's no need for a Dawn wash, just use your regular car wash soap.
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im doing dawn to strip everything and make sure im starting fresh. I have always done dawn.
 
SuperBee364 said:
4" orange with the 2.5, and 4" white for the first application of 1, then 4" black or red for how ever many additional applications of the 1 you want to do. With a DA (or even with a rotary, really), you'll see increasingly better shine with multiple applications of your final polish. Especially if you step down to a no-bite pad.



Do as many applications with the 2.5 as it takes to remove as much of the defects as you feel comfortable with. Then you'll need at least one application of the 1 with the 4" white to clean up after the 2.5. It may even take two applications.



I would also take weekendwarrior's advice on the "pink moose". I haven't seen much about it since last year, but it's a time honored favorite of alot of the pros. I'd completely forgotten about it. One application of pink moose applied with a red or black LC foam pad by PC.



Then one coat of CMW. Let it cure for at least six hours, then lightly go over it with FK1 425 to help reduce CMW's affinity for collecting dust.



Edit: you might want to stay away from using the yellow pad with the PC. On alot of clear coats, the yellow doesn't really add that much correction, and it doesn't finish down very well. I've gotten compounding marks from yellow pads on a PC that I then had to remove wih a rotary, cause I couldn't get em out with a PC. It isn't a hard and fast rule, though, there are some clears that you can successfully use yellow foam on with a PC, but it's easier to just use the orange and not take the chance on having compound marks you can't remove. If you really need more bite than the orange foam, get yourself some purple foamed wool pads and use them instead of yellow foam.
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i only have 6.5 pads, but ya ill stay away from the yellow pad. im sure it is not needed. my car is not that bad just swirls, cobb webbs and some scratches. So im doing nattys blue after CMW.
 
You are wasting a lot of time and product (in my opinion), but it's your dime, and your time...and your car.



You don't need to dawn wash to "strip" everything down. Clay will do that. Wash the car with your Duragloss soap, then clay, then move on to the SSR's. Next, combine the RMG and VM to make Pink Moose, and apply that. Then apply a coat of CMW. Wait a day, and do a wipedown with either 425 or Quickshine.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I'm just wondering if the RMG would remove any benefit of the VM. I seriously wonder if RMG is "VOC compliant". That stuff smells like it has every petroleum based solvent in the world in it. I just can't imagine that it wouldn't remove/solve VM's hiding ability. Speaking of which, is VM's hiding/filling effect better than RMG's? I really like RMG alot, but haven't tried VM, and am not *really* impressed with RMG's hiding abilities.
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CK products sure dont smell nice. I only have the CMW and YMCW and they both smell like chemicals. Not that I mind so much, though I've grown accustomed to great smelling detailing products.



I know Poorboy's EX bills itself as being a sealant/carnauba hibrid, but I dunno.... It *may* not adhere over RMG very well. Maybe cross the EX and the NB off the list, and just go with a single LSP?
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I agree; however, from reading these boards (as well as my limited experience with glaze), I think the PB sealants play nicer than most with glazes and such.





Sometimes it seems that us Autopians in our never ending efforts to make cars look the best we can get carried away... multiple glazes, multiple LSP's.. it's madness, I tell ya. ;)
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NOOOOOOO...Carried away.......Not you! :D :D



I've tried multiple "topping" combinations and have never been happy with the overall results. A tried-and-true formula: One glaze, topped with one (glaze compatible) LSP. Find a glaze and an LSP that allows you to stick to that formula, and you'll get max benefit, allowing each product to do what it was designed to do without being interfered with from other products.
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WERD~
 
weekendwarrior said:
You are wasting a lot of time and product (in my opinion), but it's your dime, and your time...and your car.



You don't need to dawn wash to "strip" everything down. Clay will do that. Wash the car with your Duragloss soap, then clay, then move on to the SSR's. Next, combine the RMG and VM to make Pink Moose, and apply that. Then apply a coat of CMW. Wait a day, and do a wipedown with either 425 or Quickshine.
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So I wash with duragloss, then clay, but after clay dont i need to wash again to remove all the stuff from the clay? Am I spraying a section down then claying, then buffing off with a MF, then move onto next section? Do i dry the car when i wash car first?
 
mixxer said:
mix the VMG and RMG 50/50 and lose the dawn, should come out great.
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i just made pink moose. Zaino site says use dawn to strip all wax and i have been searching and people say some clay dont even remove all the protection.
 
The clay will strip your car down to the point of being ready to "start fresh". No you don't have to wash again after claying. The clay holds most of the gunk it lifts off, and if you wipe off the lube with a microfiber, you're good to move on to the SSR's.



EDIT: ypu also have to remember that IF there is any wax left after claying, after you hit the car with the buffer and the SSR's, it will then all be gone. You mentioned the Zaino site mentioning using Dawn - I am not sure (you'd have to ask them), but I am assuming they say that because they are marketing under the assumption that a lot of people that buy and use Zaino won't be machine polishing, so they mention Dawn as being a good stripper.
 
weekendwarrior said:
The clay will strip your car down to the point of being ready to "start fresh". No you don't have to wash again after claying. The clay holds most of the gunk it lifts off, and if you wipe off the lube with a microfiber, you're good to move on to the SSR's.



EDIT: ypu also have to remember that IF there is any wax left after claying, after you hit the car with the buffer and the SSR's, it will then all be gone. You mentioned the Zaino site mentioning using Dawn - I am not sure (you'd have to ask them), but I am assuming they say that because they are marketing under the assumption that a lot of people that buy and use Zaino won't be machine polishing, so they mention Dawn as being a good stripper.
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oh ok and with the last 2 LSP's, CMW and Nattys blue. I would apply cmw and wait how long until then I can apply nattys?
 
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