My PC Combo - black car

Similar question.. I have a layer of Ultimate Quick Detailer, about two weeks old. Want to DWG, then EX-P...Do I need to worry about removing the QD, or will DWG with black pad on 7424 do the job without having to strip LSP? I used EX-P about 8 weeks ago, I assume I can just DWG over this. Thanks for letting me hijack. Rick.
 
rjom said:
Similar question.. I have a layer of Ultimate Quick Detailer, about two weeks old. Want to DWG, then EX-P...Do I need to worry about removing the QD, or will DWG with black pad on 7424 do the job without having to strip LSP? I used EX-P about 8 weeks ago, I assume I can just DWG over this. Thanks for letting me hijack. Rick.
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UQD is not very durable at all. I'd be surprised if there was much of it (if any) left after 2 weeks now. Go ahead and apply the DWG with the PC and black pad, and the EX-P.
 
SuperBee364 said:
With a DA (or even with a rotary, really), you'll see increasingly better shine with multiple applications of your final polish. Especially if you step down to a no-bite pad.
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Have you actually tried this with a PC? I ask because I always thought using a black or blue LC pad for final polishing would be pointless. I didn't think either of those pads would be firm enough to break a polish down via PC. I've never tried it, so I'm just asking out of curiosity.





Blownvert - I would suggest losing the Dawn, EX, and NB. The easiest route in this case would likely also produce the best results. Polish the car, glaze it, then lay down CMW. Add additional coats as needed/desired and get ready for people to ask you if you had your car re-painted.
 
Frito Bandito said:
Have you actually tried this with a PC? I ask because I always thought using a black or blue LC pad for final polishing would be pointless. I didn't think either of those pads would be firm enough to break a polish down via PC. I've never tried it, so I'm just asking out of curiosity.





Blownvert - I would suggest losing the Dawn, EX, and NB. The easiest route in this case would likely also produce the best results. Polish the car, glaze it, then lay down CMW. Add additional coats as needed/desired and get ready for people to ask you if you had your car re-painted.
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Why did i buy all this different stuff if im not using it? The dawn is gone so that is a step less. No EX or nattys anymore. I did EX before then CMW,but now i bought nattys to top it off after cmw 12 hours or more later. Do I have to wait 12 hours for LSP to cure then buff off or just wait 12 hours for next coat?
 
blownvert said:
..............Do I have to wait 12 hours for LSP to cure then buff off or just wait 12 hours for next coat?
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Buff off and then wait ~ 12 hours.

blownvert said:
dont i need some cut with the pink moose, since it has VM in it? I know RMG is just a glaze.
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You can use a light polish pad if you'd like. VM doesn't have a whole lot of cut in it so if I want to clean the surface up a bit I'll apply them separately. In fact, they are both such a pleasure to use I never have bothered to mix my moose's ;)
 
Frito Bandito said:
Have you actually tried this with a PC? I ask because I always thought using a black or blue LC pad for final polishing would be pointless. I didn't think either of those pads would be firm enough to break a polish down via PC. I've never tried it, so I'm just asking out of curiosity.





Blownvert - I would suggest losing the Dawn, EX, and NB. The easiest route in this case would likely also produce the best results. Polish the car, glaze it, then lay down CMW. Add additional coats as needed/desired and get ready for people to ask you if you had your car re-painted.
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It's actually not pointless to use the blue LC pad for final polishing. It'll take out a lot of the micromarring left behind from the polishing/cutting pads/polishes/compounds. Usually with finishing polishes, there really isn't all that much to "break down" per se, at least that's how I understand it.
 
Frito Bandito said:
Have you actually tried this with a PC? I ask because I always thought using a black or blue LC pad for final polishing would be pointless. I didn't think either of those pads would be firm enough to break a polish down via PC. I've never tried it, so I'm just asking out of curiosity.
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Yes, and it does work well. PC's are so gentle that you'll see better results from multiple applications of polish until you hit the limit of that polish which varies according to pad and clear coat hardness.
 
Sweet, learn something new every day. I'll have to give this a try with a black LC pad and 1Z HGP. Thanks!



Blownvert - All the products you listed are good in their own right (IMO). It's just that it's always seemed to me that topping one LSP with another invariably effects the base LSP negatively. I would use all those products, I would just use the LSPs separately.
 
Eliot Ness said:
Buff off and then wait ~ 12 hours.

You can use a light polish pad if you'd like. VM doesn't have a whole lot of cut in it so if I want to clean the surface up a bit I'll apply them separately. In fact, they are both such a pleasure to use I never have bothered to mix my moose's ;)
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well i did make moose so its one or the other for pads polishing/finishing. I made the pink moose to skip a step in the buffing.
 
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