Touch-up repair gone bad!

S

surprise

New member
I have been lurking around this board for some time now and have read many of the tutorials on how to repair a paint chip using sanding paper. I gathered enough courage and bought everything that I needed including 2000 grit sandpaper. I decided to tackle a small nick on the hood of my car.



So I started sanding after letting the paper sit in water for a few hours. I made sure that there was plenty of water. I stopped wiped off the water and took a look at the results. To my surprise my small nick now looks like there is a small crescent to the side of the chip. I figured I must of gone a little deeper there so to remove this I should continue on sanding :furious: , not a good move. I believe that I went all the way through the cc, this was confirmed when I went to polish the sanding marks out and there was silver (the color of the car) on the applicator pad :wall .



Short of repainting the hood is there anything else I can do to hide it or protect the now cc lacking area?



P1010044.JPG
 
I have been lurking around this board for some time now and have read many of the tutorials on how to repair a paint chip using sanding paper. I gathered enough courage and bought everything that I needed including 2000 grit sandpaper. I decided to tackle a small nick on the hood of my car.



So I started sanding after letting the paper sit in water for a few hours. I made sure that there was plenty of water. I stopped wiped off the water and took a look at the results. To my surprise my small nick now looks like there is a small crescent to the side of the chip. I figured I must of gone a little deeper there so to remove this I should continue on sanding :furious: , not a good move. I believe that I went all the way through the cc, this was confirmed when I went to polish the sanding marks out and there was silver (the color of the car) on the applicator pad :wall .



Short of repainting the hood is there anything else I can do to hide it or protect the now cc lacking area?



P1010044.JPG
 
You were going to have to get through the Clear Coat to apply the touch-up paint. How much outside of the area you were intending to repair is the failure caused by sanding?



Also don't beat yourself up too much. I'm willing to bet that 95% of the people who try to effect repairs with touch-up kits sand too much.
 
You were going to have to get through the Clear Coat to apply the touch-up paint. How much outside of the area you were intending to repair is the failure caused by sanding?



Also don't beat yourself up too much. I'm willing to bet that 95% of the people who try to effect repairs with touch-up kits sand too much.
 
The area that I was trying to repair, well there is now paint over the nick. There was no cc failure before I tried to flatten the small touch up paint blob. My sanding removed the cc.
 
The area that I was trying to repair, well there is now paint over the nick. There was no cc failure before I tried to flatten the small touch up paint blob. My sanding removed the cc.
 
Just prep the area with 400 grit abrading lightly about 8" around it , use a good de-waxer like transtar , tack rag then tape off / plastic drop sheet everything except 5 " around it .

I mean everything else too , overspray travels .

Then spray a cross pattern ( plus sign ) over it , waiting about 5 minutes between each direction .

Then go over it once more after 10 minutes , BUT as you are going away from the rub thru , pull the spray can off the surface more .

fade it out , you will be spraying about 10-11" for the cross pattern , 7-8" away for the blend at the repair and want to completely move away from it as you get within 2-3" of the tape .

Take the tape off and move it outwards 2-3" and wait abut 15-20 minutes and tack it lightly to remove any dust & spray your clear - 2 light passes in the cross pattern , one nice flowing coat both directions fading out in the same manner last round .

NOTE : clear runs easier than base coat , get a feel for how it sprays by " spraying out " onto cardboard or whatever 1st . Also your color - get a feel for how it sprays

Do this out of the sun and make sure the surface is not heated ( like freshly pulled out of the sun )

Wait about a week after parking it in the sunshine as much as you can without fear of birds that week and lightly wetsand out the new clear with 2000 grit and 2500 grit over the whole thing .

Use a 3m or meguiars SPONGE sanding block and DO NOT press into it at all , let teh paper do ALL of the work ..

Then go over it with your yellow pad and some body shop safe light compound , clean up and polish and dont wax it , only use hand glaze for about 3 more weeks .



Done :-)
 
Just prep the area with 400 grit abrading lightly about 8" around it , use a good de-waxer like transtar , tack rag then tape off / plastic drop sheet everything except 5 " around it .

I mean everything else too , overspray travels .

Then spray a cross pattern ( plus sign ) over it , waiting about 5 minutes between each direction .

Then go over it once more after 10 minutes , BUT as you are going away from the rub thru , pull the spray can off the surface more .

fade it out , you will be spraying about 10-11" for the cross pattern , 7-8" away for the blend at the repair and want to completely move away from it as you get within 2-3" of the tape .

Take the tape off and move it outwards 2-3" and wait abut 15-20 minutes and tack it lightly to remove any dust & spray your clear - 2 light passes in the cross pattern , one nice flowing coat both directions fading out in the same manner last round .

NOTE : clear runs easier than base coat , get a feel for how it sprays by " spraying out " onto cardboard or whatever 1st . Also your color - get a feel for how it sprays

Do this out of the sun and make sure the surface is not heated ( like freshly pulled out of the sun )

Wait about a week after parking it in the sunshine as much as you can without fear of birds that week and lightly wetsand out the new clear with 2000 grit and 2500 grit over the whole thing .

Use a 3m or meguiars SPONGE sanding block and DO NOT press into it at all , let teh paper do ALL of the work ..

Then go over it with your yellow pad and some body shop safe light compound , clean up and polish and dont wax it , only use hand glaze for about 3 more weeks .



Done :-)
 
Wow great informationm, thanks! Would any car part store carry the proper spray clear coat? Any brand easier to apply than others?



Thanks again!
 
Wow great informationm, thanks! Would any car part store carry the proper spray clear coat? Any brand easier to apply than others?



Thanks again!
 
Thing is are you 100% sure it's just clear ? Usually when you can see a cresent it's basecoat too , the color just changes lighter because you also removed the top layer of color ( the film ) ..

If it's only clear for sure for sure , call local paint supply shops and ask for u-pol UV clear . That's the only one that wont deteriorate over time ..

For color AND clear levineautoparts.com for your custom mixed base coat , and the U-Pol 1k UV clear
 
Thing is are you 100% sure it's just clear ? Usually when you can see a cresent it's basecoat too , the color just changes lighter because you also removed the top layer of color ( the film ) ..

If it's only clear for sure for sure , call local paint supply shops and ask for u-pol UV clear . That's the only one that wont deteriorate over time ..

For color AND clear levineautoparts.com for your custom mixed base coat , and the U-Pol 1k UV clear
 
No I am not 100% sure, but the paint that is there does have metal flakes in it. I guesse it might be wise to suck it up and take it to my favorite body shop. :wall
 
No I am not 100% sure, but the paint that is there does have metal flakes in it. I guesse it might be wise to suck it up and take it to my favorite body shop. :wall
 
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