Swirl free buffing

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imported_turbomangt

New member
Here is a quick tip on perfecting the art of high speed buffing. If you lack the confidence here is some direction on getting it right. We all know the importance of keeping the pad flat while working, the natural tendency is to lift up at one end. Now, take the handle off the machine, whatever machine you use, the handle should unscrew. I would first practice on a piece of metal from a body shop, because this may seem un- natural at first. But by holding the machine "without" the handle you will be forced to keep the pad flat while working. after some time you will see the great results you get by doing it this way. When you "know the feel" you can put the handle back, and you will see improvement instantly. Gary
 
Yeah, I too have found it's easier to control the buffer by holding it by the head. The CMA site recommends this as well.
 
Thanks for the tip. I certainly like that method with my PC. I have a rotary coming sometime this month, so I'll be sure to put that technique to work. Thanks again
 
cool, i found this to be true to. It gives me more power, control, and my hands don't wear out as quick. You can also fit the polisher places it could't go before.
 
Be ever watchful my fellow Autopians of the "wobbles" when working without the handle on a rotary:eek: \



The purpose of the handle is for balance and control and while it can also be a distraction, like when many detailers put a death grip on it and use it to steer the buffer which is one cause of swirls, it can also save your butt if the buffer happens to skip or jump while using it.



The farther out the buffer goes from your center of balance the higher the risk for wobbles and skipping. In other words if you happen to be buffing and over extend your "reach zone" then the buffer becomes less stable, especially when cutting paint, and can without any warning tip to one side and/or jump from your grip. Which would be BAD:nono



If you opt to use your hand on the body of the buffer the better method is to craddle the buffer in your palm from the bottom. This works well for polishing and final buffing. Your hand directly over the spindle is better when cutting. Be careful that your fingers don't get burned though as that really hurts :shocked



Anthony
 
"If you opt to use your hand on the body of the buffer the better method is to craddle the buffer in your palm from the bottom. This works well for polishing and final buffing. Your hand directly over the spindle is better when cutting. "



that was what i was talking about doing....that's what i meant when i said "more power"
 
Anthony has spoke with wisdom. This method should be practiced on anything EXCEPT a real car. The reason behind doing this is to get used to how the machine should feel when proper technique is used. Sorry if I didn't make myself clear. Thanks for clearing that up Anthony. Gary
 
When using a rotary buffer, how do you apply product (polish or compound) without it spattering all over the place?
 
Try applying the product to the pad itself instead of the paint, use a small amount and you can also try smearing the product around a small area before buffing.



If you like the product on the paint then use a small thin line of product, a few inches long, and place the pad just to the right of the end of the line, open up the face of the pad (lift the pad edge up just a bit) to the line and as you slowy press the trigger move th epad over the line of product. This will draw the product up into the pad and as you cross over the end lay th epad flat and continue buffing.



Other than that it just takes some practice. It is always best and safer to mask off areas to help protect against splatter and the occassional "opps!".



Anthony
 
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