Successful scratch removal!

S

Scottwax

New member
I got a call from a lady saying she needed her Maxima polished and waxed and she mentioned she had some scratches that she put in the paint when she touched up some dings.



I get to her house and this is what I find:



1099scratches_before.jpg




She had used some touch up paint and then used what she called "a kitchen scrubber" to level the paint. I'm guessing she meant a Scotchbrite pad.



Anyway, DACP was making for very slow progress, so I used the sample bottle of Blue Moose I've been testing for Clearkote. By hand, using a terry cloth towel, I worked Blue Moose into the scratches and within 3-4 minutes, I had them all out. Blue Moose is pretty aggressive and did leave some light hazing in the paint (it didn't show up clearly on film though), but DACP took them right out and then I went over the area with Swirl Free Polish as well to further smooth the whole panel and this is what it looked like:



1099scratches_during.jpg




I then went over the whole car with Vanilla Moose and Carnuba Moose Wax and this is the final result:



1099scratches_after.jpg




As you can see, the finish came out very wet and deep looking on this 10-year-old Maxima. I wanted to get a full view pic of the car, but it was under covered parking with cars on both sides and with the car in the shade but sun beyond, it was just too dark to look right.
 
What you do by hand is truly amazing. I feel that saying great job doesn't tell the whole story on the results you get. That turned out totally fantastic.
 
Very nice work. :up I can particularly appreciate it as I still have my 93 Maxima.



Just curious, how does the Blue Moose compare to say, 3m Super Duty RC?



If the Blue Moose can get scratches out so good by hand, I'm very interested in it as soon as it comes out. I'd like to eliminate scratches easily in a short amount of time with minimum amount of equipment possible.
 
Bill-the only 3M products I've used is their Perfect It Paste Wax and Imperial Hand Glaze. When I first started my business, I was able to locate a Meguiars distributer right away and have stuck with their products.



Blue Moose is quite aggressive. Like I said, it will leave some minor hazing but that is easily removed with DACP. What suprised me about Blue Moose is that despite how aggressive it is, the paint has a nice glow to it when you finish using it.
 
MildSeven-Actually, I was a little upset with myself when I got the pics back because my intention was for each shot to be of the same exact section of the car from the same distance. I set my camera down in the same spot (or so I thought) that I took the first pic. That is the one advantage of a digital camera is that you can look at the previous shots. Still, I'm not ready to give up my 35mm Nikon yet.
 
Mmmm, nice GXE! :cool: Haven't seen too many 3rd generation Maximas that colour either!



PS: Has the car ever been repainted? I notice her door trim strips aren't faded some funky colour! :lol :p
 
Yes...I'm a total rookie and new to the site today.



I can tell from other posts that Mequiars makes DACP, is DACP an acronym for something and is it primarily made to remove scratches?
 
Great work as always... we are lucky to have Scott in the DFW area.. unfortunately, Kim and I are moving away and wont have him to call to save the day anymore.. :(



:bow Scott





Dana
 
mooch said:
Yes...I'm a total rookie and new to the site today.



I can tell from other posts that Mequiars makes DACP, is DACP an acronym for something and is it primarily made to remove scratches?
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Welcome to Autopia. There's a list of acronyms and what they stand for that you might find helpful. Meg's Dual Action Cleaner Polish *IS* primarily a swirl/scratch remover. It's also known as #83.



ScottWax- I'm guessing the Blue Moose is an infrequent-use only product. How seriously (if at all) do you think the clear got compromised in that area? I realize that there isn't always a lot one can do.
 
dboat said:
Great work as always... we are lucky to have Scott in the DFW area.. unfortunately, Kim and I are moving away and wont have him to call to save the day anymore.. :(



:bow Scott





Dana
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.

Hey Dana! See you at 1 PM tomorrow to take care of your new (to you, as you put it!) Acura. I can't wait to see it.



4DSC-part of the other side of the car had been repainted at some point because the orange peel didn't match and I didn't do anything to the hood since the clearcoat is failing and she is getting it repainted. The main reason she wanted the car polished and waxed was because she felt if the paint was at 100%, the bodyshop could get a better color match when they reshoot the hood. I hope she heeds my advice and insists the shop remove the hood for repainting instead of taping off her car.
 
Accumulator said:




ScottWax- I'm guessing the Blue Moose is an infrequent-use only product. How seriously (if at all) do you think the clear got compromised in that area? I realize that there isn't always a lot one can do.
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Yeah, I don't use it much, it is for serious paint defects. It took out the scratches completely because I washed the area down to make sure they were gone and not just filled in....even though I was sure I had removed them since if they could be filled, DACP would have done it. I'd say in those spots, due to the depth of the scratches, the clear is probably pretty thin in those areas. Maybe not dangerously so, but she had better not get any more deep scratches in those areas.
 
Scottwax said:
.

Hey Dana! See you at 1 PM tomorrow to take care of your new (to you, as you put it!) Acura. I can't wait to see it.



Scott,

cant wait for you to get your hands on it.. which reminds me.. dont forget your hand warmers... :shocked :D

Dana
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Scottwax said:
4DSC-part of the other side of the car had been repainted at some point because the orange peel didn't match....
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So her door strips are still original paint?? Woah... :eek: I guess not everyone got hit by this epidemic. :p
 
AWESOME job, again, Scott!:bow



Somehow you always know just what to do, and how to do it!:xyxthumbs

I'm getting ready to do a 2001 Lexus GS430 and a 2000 Acura CL Type-S. I'm just planning on wash, clay, QD, VM, and s100-all by hand.

Anyways, what's the best way to remove bugs from the front? I was thinking about TW Bug& Tar remover, since it's available locally, but don't trust TW quality...what to do??:nixweiss



I hope I can do as good a job on those two cars as you do on all of yours!



Thanks,

Drew



:wavey
 
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