Rust touch up, small area.

tom p.

tom p.

Active member
Guys, can anyone make a recommendation for a product that will "neutralize" rust? I've got this small spot on the inner edge of a front door. It's about 1/3" in length and I have good access to it. I can't really see going to the body shop for something like this.



Is there any product you could recommend to deal with this? I have the touch up paints (spray and brush on) for the car so that part is easy.



Thanks.



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tom p. said:
Guys, can anyone make a recommendation for a product that will "neutralize" rust? I've got this small spot on the inner edge of a front door. It's about 1/3" in length and I have good access to it. I can't really see going to the body shop for something like this.

Is there any product you could recommend to deal with this? I have the touch up paints (spray and brush on) for the car so that part is easy.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I haven't foudn any of those "spray on and stop rust" type of products to do any good. The best thing you could do would be to try and get rid of the rust all together.
 
Hi, what i would suggest is that you get some rust encapsulator, from eastwood,its a paint that can be applied over rust, or in areas where you can not remove the rust completley,then top coat this with regular automotive paint,and believe me it does work,i have trusted this product for many years,and never had a problem with rust creep. Hope this may be of some help to you.
 
Yeah, I too would use the rust encapsulator, at least if I were doing the job "right". But "right" is sorta relative, see below.



The only tricky part of that repair would be getting under/behind the molding. If the chip and its rust don't really extend under it then you're home free. Ditto if the screw in the pic is what holds the molding on.



You might not even need the rust encapsulator, IMO it depends on how bad it looks once you clean it up (i.e., how likely it looks that it'll come back- is this the Benz? Their steel is pretty good in this regard)....here's how I'd go about it (I do similar repairs frequently, about to do one on the RX-7): Remove as much of the rust as you can with either on of the "rust pens" (see Griot's pn 50303A for an example) or with some sandpaper. Then use one of these methods and top with paint:



1) Use Eastwood's Rust Converter to prep the surface. Use their Rust Encapsulator for your primer. Top within 30 hours or so to avoid having to sand the Encapsulator and risk thinning/cutting through it.



2) Use a converter like "Rust Avenger" (got mine from Griot's but don't see it in their latest catalog) to both kill the rust and prime.



While the first method is more thorough and "better", the second method works great too, not like it's a half-[baked] way of doing things. I'd use the first method simply because I already have the Eastwood stuff on hand, but I've used the second method many times with no come-backs.
 
Accumulator said:
You might not even need the rust encapsulator, IMO it depends on how bad it looks once you clean it up (i.e., how likely it looks that it'll come back- is this the Benz? Their steel is pretty good in this regard
Click to expand...



Guys, thanks for taking the time to reply - -I appreciate it.



This spot is the sort of thing 99.9% of the population would ignore. However, the spot is growing and I don't want it to turn into some huge mess. I am not certain whether it extends under the molding...I'll have to check. If it is more widespread, a trip to the body shop may be needed.



yeah, it's the newer ('02) Benz. MBz has been confronted with some very serious rust issues on late model cars....it's weird.





Guys, can I get away with just a single Eastwood product or do I need to get both the Encapsulator and Converter?? I'd prefer to get just one and the Encapsulator is available in silver.



Thanks again!
 
HI,imo, i dont think you need the converter, and the encapsulator,i would just use the encapsulator.I have never found the need to use the converter.If the rust is as localised as it appears to be,then i believe this would solve the problem,as i myself trust the product,and have used it on rust far worse than what appears to be on your door.As a side note, you dont have to get the silver encapsulator, as your gonna have to finnish the repair with the correct benz silver,so it would not matter what colour encapsulator,is underneath. Good luck to you.
 
Yeah, I'd actually recommend a non-silver color so you can better see how the touch-up paint is going on. Their black dries flat black like a primer and is handy for all sorts of surfaces.



And yeah#2 using both the converter and RE is sorta overkill. I'm just all revved up about Eastwood's having come up with a converter that works with RE (note you often don't want such things used before products like POR-15 as they need to bite into the rust).



I dunno...I'd probably just use the Rust Avenger, but that's easy for me to say as I have it on hand. I'm more in favor of killing the rust chemically than just sealing it off from oxygen when we're talking about spots like that (I go the other way on stuff like undercarriages and suspension parts).



I'd be very surprised if that repair needs the attentions of a bodyshop (assuming you can get to all of the affected area). Any of these approaches oughta work just fine...then you can decide how involved you want to get with the touch-up ;) Gonna wetsand/Langka it or just get on with your life?
 
I like to keep things simple. I'll probably just coat it with the RE if that's within the guidelines.



Very first step is to determine the extent of the rust which I'll do tonight.





thx.
 
wong, thanks. I am willing to commit to the rust encapsulator as they guys are suggesting that the stuff actually works. I found a good price on the RE but it's black.
 
My lucky day: The rust spot does not extend under the molding. The actual rust spot is nicely contained.



The guy at Eastwood says he'd use Rust Converter followed by Chassis black or RE. :rolleyes:
 
There are 2 products that were recomended to me from 4 body shops and 2 paint suppliers..one is called Pickelx which is a rust converter....converts iron oxide to iron phosphate..something like that...and the other product is called Rust Zero..it is a encapsulator...



I had some rust starting on my tailgate of my truck..on a seam....I was going to do the work..it was just a small spot...my truck is still under warranty and was told let them fix it...I picked it up today and asked what they used to fix it..they told me pickelx and zero rust..they have worked the best for them so far..they had to many come backs on POR-15..they said POR-15 is good..but everything has to be just right for it to bond...



they waranteed the work they did for as long as I own it...



Al
 
AL-53- Those products sound just like the Eastwood stuff; a rose by any other name and all that... Oh, and I like the sound of your co-pilot, I'd like to see a pic in the Autopian Pets thread :D



Tom P.- Yeah, that is good luck.



Just for the [heck] of it, see if you can find the Rust Avenger without any big hassle. I'm tellin' you, it'd do the job on a little spot like that; it's solved bigger problems for me and they stayed fixed (even used it on chips on the hood of my beloved Jag, worked great even without putting paint on top). In fact, I have a rusty chip much like that on the RX-7. Even though I have the Eastwood stuff I'm just gonna use the Rust Avenger on it. Quick, easy, effective.



Otherwise, just go ahead and splurge (easy for me to say with your money ;) ), get both the products at Eastwood. IMO you're gonna be finding excuses to use the stuff! But yeah, it's a big deal over a little rusty paint chip, huh?
 
Accumulator hit the other product some mentioned as good..Rust Avenger..I believe they said it was a 3M product and worked good for rust chips...



I was concerned with my little rust area as it was on a seam ..they had to remove the seam sealant and glass bead the area and use the phosphoric acid etch converter to ensure any rust under the seam if any was hit....



with your area you could use the 3M sanding pencil to get most of it off and use the rust avenger the encapsulate the area and touch it up after the curing time of the avenger.



Make sure area is oil grease free..do a wipe of prep sol..or alcohol to ensure oils are cleaned from area....



Also Accumulator..I have a picture of my co-pilot on the pet thread..post #50...I rescued another pitbull not long ago..just under a year old...I know she is safe now and will live free from fear of the death walk ...it is hard now with 2 co-pilots in a truck..lol...one always wants to drive...lol



Al
 
Guys, thanks for the tips...Rust Encapsulator is on its way. I read a ton of reviews yesterday about the RE, I think it's going to work fine for my application. Time will tell.



What is this 3M sanding pencil? How come I don't about it? :eek: :D
 
AL-53- Thanks, I'll go scope out your pit here in a minute, maybe I saw it before but I'm gonna check it out again. Never met one that I didn't fall in love with, but then I've only known ones with good owners.



Heh heh, LOL about one wanting to drive...my younger Beauceron rides in her crate so they don't decide to play pack-hierarchy games while I'm trying to drive ;)



That rust-on-the-seam repair sounds like what I had fixed on my XJS. Been over ten years and it's still staying fixed.



Tom P.- There are some abrasive "pens" out there that can be used to scuff off the worst of the surface rust. Go to Griot's website and check out that pn (50303A). They're kinda handy to have around, but then just *look* at all the products I say that about :o
 
is this the badboy you guys are talking about? It's a small brush with fibreglass bristles, very stiff...











....I've already got one :)
 

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That's the *BIG* version. The one at Griot's is a lot smaller and if you trim the nylon filament bristles with a razor blade you can make them nice and pointy.
 
Accumulator, I love sending people to Griot's to "just look around"....it's almost as pleasurable as doing it yourself!



Thanks for the recs.
 
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