Nxt + #16

Can I assume you applied the #16 directly on top of the NXT and if so, do you think there is no ill effect from not giving the NXT a couple of hours to cure. I've noticed the slickness factor increasing overnight and wondered if throwing some 16 on top of this would diminish NXT's durability.



Scottwax said:
I finally decided to top NXT with a carnauba and figured I'd try #16 Professional Paste Wax first. I haven't used #16 in a while and forgot just how nice a look it has. Anyway, on top of NXT, #16 added noticable wetness to the paint. It really is a nice look. I've got it on my car and a metallic black BMW 745 (took pics of it) that I should have posted in the next few days.



If you are looking for something to top NXT with and have a container of #16, it is definitely worth trying.
Click to expand...
 
Scott and those who have tried #16,



How is #16 compared to S100/P21S in these areas:



1. How much harder is the application and removal?



2. Do you let it haze before removal?



3. How does it compare regarding dust attraction? Does it seem to attract dust like Blitz and or Souveran?



4. Shine, depth and reflections? How does it compare?



5. Slickness, how does that compare?



I am really curious as it sounds like a great long lasting wax to use as the final topper on titanium silver metallic paint! :D



Thanks in advance!



Cheers,
 
AMP01 said:
Scott and those who have tried #16,



How is #16 compared to S100/P21S in these areas:



1. How much harder is the application and removal?



2. Do you let it haze before removal?



3. How does it compare regarding dust attraction? Does it seem to attract dust like Blitz and or Souveran?



4. Shine, depth and reflections? How does it compare?



5. Slickness, how does that compare?



I am really curious as it sounds like a great long lasting wax to use as the final topper on titanium silver metallic paint! :D



Thanks in advance!



AMP01,



Cheers,
Click to expand...



Excellent questions ... also curious if it stains trim.
 
NHBFAN,



Another great question! :xyxthumbs



I too have become spoiled re: S100/P21S's non-staining of trim!



Thanks again in advance for all these answers!



Cheers,
 
AMP01 said:
Scott and those who have tried #16,



How is #16 compared to S100/P21S in these areas:



1. How much harder is the application and removal?



2. Do you let it haze before removal?



3. How does it compare regarding dust attraction? Does it seem to attract dust like Blitz and or Souveran?



4. Shine, depth and reflections? How does it compare?



5. Slickness, how does that compare?



I am really curious as it sounds like a great long lasting wax to use as the final topper on titanium silver metallic paint! :D



Thanks in advance!



Cheers,
Click to expand...



#16 v. S100 (my experiences)



1. and 2. Application ease is equal--a little harder to keep from applying too much, but once you get the hang of it, #16 glides on just as smoothly. Removal is slightly more difficult, but let's be realistic since we are comparing it to S100/P21S! I have started applying and removing 2 panels at a time. The 16 is much heavier and allowing it to set on the paint longer increases the difficulty of removal many times over. Using the 2 panel method, I find it is only slightly more difficult--due mainly in part to its heavier nature.



3. I have noticed less dust attraction than #26, a little more (slightly) than S100. My office is next to a gigantic construction project so I have been experimenting with several panels and #16 has impressed me thus far.



4. S100 has more warmth, while #16 has more shine. I found it works more effectively on light colors and (wouldn't you know!), silver.



5. Slickness is slightly less noticeable than S100, but the difference is narrow and this is somewhat of a subjective comparison. Thus, I would call it a close race.



6 (which I will add). This stuff beads like crazy and it does so for a VERY long time.



In summary, go for it.



*edit* Totally forgot about this:



Doesn't dry white and did not stain *my* trim. I emphasize the "my" because I just dyed the side trim pieces and bumper guards with Forever Black (@2 weeks ago) and I don't know if that stuff offers any stain resistance. Mileage may vary.
 
NHBFAN said:
Not a bad price ... but shipping costs suck:angry
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For Sure!!!! :(



I tried to get #16 from my local Body Shop Supply store but their distributor was out (Raleigh, NC). Bit the bullet and just had it delivered to my front door. :D
 
thinksnow,



Thanks for the quick reply! :)



We have a local paint supply place here in Santa Barbara that sells Meg's pro-line products. I think I will stop by in the next couple of days and check out some of the #16!



Thanks again!



Cheers,
 
Drop by a boating supply store if your paint supply place doesn't carry it. Every one of the West Marine and Boat US locations here carry it, so it may be a common thing.
 
blkZ28Conv said:
For Sure!!!! :(



I tried to get #16 from my local Body Shop Supply store but their distributor was out (Raleigh, NC). Bit the bullet and just had it delivered to my front door. :D
Click to expand...



Finally something I can get locally at a low price;)
 
#16 paste wax has to be one of Meguiar's oldest automotive car waxes, if not the oldest..Also interesting when I was working their it was not used very much..why? probably because it's very old technology, smell's like crayon's, not very user friendly unless the paint surface is prepped really well..However, I do believe #16 does offer great protection..with some gloss..It is my conlusion you would be better off with #26 High Tech Yellow wax as a topper..(newer technology)..However, NXT is now my favorite (two thin coat's) good shine, protection, and durability all in one..
 
My opinions:



1: #16 is harder to remove if not put on very thin. Easy to apply, and a little goes a long way (longer if using thinner coats - a win/win situation this way!).



2: I let #16 haze (did whole car, then removed). Was a little tough on some areas (too thick), but I've definitely worked with worse. Again, thin is better - and it spreads easily, so you need to be looking closely, not going for the "can't see the paint through the wax" look.



3: #16 doesn't seem too bad for dust, but it's winter, so I can't really say much for summer effects.



4: They look similar to me, #16 may have a little more shine (IMO). (I know-not what guru says.)



5: Too cold to say.



6: As to durability, I got less than a month from S100/P21S, and I'm on a month with #16, and it's still beading. Can't say much more than this, other than it's winter and they may have different results in heat vs. cold.



Considering P21S just went up in price ($32.00 some places, I can't remember what S100 is -$15.00?) and you get only 6.2 oz. and the #16 can be found for about $10.00 on sale (for 11oz.) #16 seems to be a much better value, especially since it lasts longer. Again, this is only based on a one time for each use, so I don't have too much history with either.
 
1. If you apply #16 just like S100, thin coat, one panel at a time and remove, there is no real difference. Both go on and off with ease.



2. No, one panel, wipe off. I use it exactly like S100.



3. Dust attraction is similar to S100, pretty low.



4. Very reflective like S100 but has somewhat better depth and wetness, at least on dark colors.



5. Pretty close on slickness.



The beading is outstanding so far, and just like S100, a real hard rain seems to wash the car. I applied it to my car Friday morning and it poured Sunday morning and since I did not drive my car in the rain and just let it dry when the sun came out, it looked freshly washed.



If you have S100, I wouldn't say it is mandatory you run out and buy some #16 immediately. When you run out, or just want to try something else, #16 is worth trying, especially since it isn't very expensive.



BTW, this is the BMW 745 with NXT/#16:



10992003_745_NXT_16.jpg
 
Scott,



Thanks again for your informative input! :xyxthumbs I will check out some of the #16 and let you know how it came out! If it is able to applied and removed similar to S100/PS1S and it is less expensive, what a cool thing! :D



Thanks again Scott and those cars you touch are Shining!



Cheers,
 
Interesting thread.



#16 was my topper for just about every car I have ever detailed before NXT Tech Wax. It is a true hard wax and if you put on a thick coat and let it fully dry, say an hour or so, it will be like removing concrete. Some people sell it as a mold release wax, and obviously, some people use it as a mold release wax.



That tells me it leaves behind a barrier-film, (like a mold release wax), and is durable.



I would always pretty much follow this routine,



Rotary Buffer

Compound

Paint Cleaner

Cleaner/Polish



Hand

#20

#16



5-steps minimum to every car I buffed out with the compounding step always taking 2-4 hours depending on how well I wanted to remove all of the defects.



With p21S, the instruction say to apply and then wipe off immediately. Usually I would infer that this is leaving very little actual wax behind on the surface because you're not giving it time to set-up.



With Meguiar's Mold release paste waxes, drying time is about an hour before removal. With the new liquid polymer sealer and release, it's 15 to 20 minutes.



So there is something to allowing a product to dry or cure in order to leave behind some type of substance.



It's interesting to see others trying something that fed me for years. It doesn't turn paint dark like Gold Class, #26, or even NXT, but it does offer good filling characteristics, and thus excellent gloss characteristics.



I tell a number of stories about #16 PPW in my never seems as though I'll get it finished how-to book. It is the first wax Meguiar’s ever developed. There is story behind this too... the date, 1951 is an indicator.



Mike
 
You pay more attention than I do I guess. I always apply #16 to the entire car, allow it to dry for at least an hour, and then remove.



This requires



* A high quality 100% cotton terry cloth towel

* A couple of strong arms

* Patience

* A careful touch



It's real easy to put towel scratches into the finish if you apply a thick coat of #16 and let it fully dry. It will be very difficult to remove.



Because of the way I apply and removed the #16, I guess I didn't take the time to watch it haze, but instead moved around the car applying the wax. After that, I would typically do what I call edging it, which is when I would go around the car and remove the tape, and while I was at it, remove just the little bit of wax around the edges.



After I finished this, I would do the big picture, that is, remove the wax from the large panels, areas and sections.



This was the fun part because this will reveal you results. It either makes, or breaks you.



I would like to post some pictures of cars I have done this too, but it requires me to set-up and start a scanning project since most of them were taken with 35mm



Mike
 
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