New car... some issues with Finish Kare 1000p

Guitarist302008

New member
So I bought a 2011 370z... when the salesmen told me that they were going to get it cleaned up and fill it with glass, I said "fill it up and don't touch it". So I picked the car up, plastic still on the seats and all lol.



I went to work and did a first wash getting all of the pollen and such off of it.



A few days later I had time to wash and clay the car which showed some minor imperfections in the paint... but with a white pad and some Menzerna Final polish it took the few scratches and such out.



I then was trying to decide on which sealant to use. I read some guys say that the FK1000 looked good on white. I had gone to autozone and bought some microfiber applicators, but when I attempt to apply it, I just cannot get that "whisper thin" finish. It's soaking into the paint and the pad is just grabbing the paint way to much.



Is there something I can do to help with this issue? Wet the applicator or something?



I was going to use the Blackfire Wet Diamond, but there is nothing like the hardness of FK1000, i've used it in the past with no issues.



Perhaps I should be using a sponge applicator instead?
 
I was National Sales Manager for FK from 88 until fall of 95 so may be able to provide some help.

The product was developed for "mold release", however is a great, long term synthetic wax blend, with a melt or fracture point above 215 F.

Use a "close cell sponge", a thin one, to apply, not a micro fiber.

Allow to cure/dry for 10 to 20 minutes.

Then, using a folded towel (we recommended a terry cloth at the time) and "break the wax", which is a light wipe off.

This DOES NOT remove all the dried indicators (haze), but allows for a second, removal wipe to be done.

Am not sure, but would think a micro fiber would be good for the second wipe.

Hope this helps solve your concern.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
I was National Sales Manager for FK from 88 until fall of 95 so may be able to provide some help.

The product was developed for "mold release", however is a great, long term synthetic wax blend, with a melt or fracture point above 215 F.

Use a "close cell sponge", a thin one, to apply, not a micro fiber.

Allow to cure/dry for 10 to 20 minutes.

Then, using a folded towel (we recommended a terry cloth at the time) and "break the wax", which is a light wipe off.

This DOES NOT remove all the dried indicators (haze), but allows for a second, removal wipe to be done.

Am not sure, but would think a micro fiber would be good for the second wipe.

Hope this helps solve your concern.

Grumpy



thanks for the info man... yeah, this microfiber pad just isn't working out very well lol. I will give the sponge a try.
 
When I used FKP1000P for the first time a couple of weeks, I just misted the applicator with FK425 - it really made it easy to apply the sealant.
 
When I was there, Floyd did not recommend using a PC, he insisted it be hand applied in a circular motion, nice thin, controled layer of the product.

Grumpy
 
Thanks for all of the feedback guys, so about 20 minutes between layers then? I actually have applied it with a PC before, but I like doing it by hand for some reason... I guess I feel like I get a little exercise lol.



It's turning out really nice. It did actually need a mild amount of polishing... I don't know if it was from the clay, or just from the dealership. Using the white pad with the Menzerna super finish with my Flex is yielding great results though. I am just taking my time and am going to layer the hell out of it so it doesn't scratch up as easily from washing and drying.



What would you all suggest for washing and drying that is the least abrasive?
 
Ron Ketcham said:
I was National Sales Manager for FK from 88 until fall of 95 so may be able to provide some help.



Hi, Ron :wavey Hey, I never knew you were at FK!



Heh heh, bet they thought you went over to the darkside at AI, huh? There seemed to be some...uhm...bad blood between those two companies.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
By the way, how long do I have to wait to layer this product?



I've had pseudo-hologram issues when I tried to layer it too soon...and in my case "too soon" was after a day or two of waiting! No, there were no weird environmental factors in the shop either. After going through that a few times, I now wait until after the next, regularly scheduled, wash.



tdekany said:
Washing - accumulator's technique



Oh man...easier said than done, huh?



This reminds me that I really (*REALLY*) need to rewrite that into the long-promised article that I never get around to :o
 
FWIW, I emailed Finish Kare about layering and I was told to wait 24 hours before applying the second coat. The wax just takes time to cure properly, which is why the car actually looks better three days or so after it's been waxed. As I recall, I actually waited about 18 hours and had no problems. But perhaps Grumpy can shed some light on this for us.
 
for another question... I was wondering when it comes to the wheels I thought of using Blackfire since it really does give that wet look... the rims are polished, but clearcoated.... but will the heat be to much and I should just stick with the FK1000 on them as well?
 
akimel said:
FWIW, I emailed Finish Kare about layering and I was told to wait 24 hours before applying the second coat.



That's correct, they've been saying that for a long time.
 
There never was from the AI side, however Floyd's side was as usual, a bit different.

A couple of years before I left and went to AI, they offered to buy Finish Kare for a good and fair price.

Of course enough was never enough for Floyd.

I am not even sure anymore who actually owns or controls the company, I know at one time JJ of Allbrite bought it after Floyd's death, but heard there were changes a couple of years ago.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
There never was from the AI side...



Yeah, I shoulda worded my post better. Never had any acrimony from AI.



Tom P. said:
That's correct, they've been saying [24 hr cure between coats] for a long time.



Yeah, and gullible ol' me...I went with that without checking things out with the SunGun :o Big problem, literally "big" (the GMC). I do merely wait a day or so when using it on wheels as any such issues won't be much of a problem.



Guitarist302008 said:
for another question... I was wondering when it comes to the wheels I thought of using Blackfire since it really does give that wet look... the rims are polished, but clearcoated.... but will the heat be to much and I should just stick with the FK1000 on them as well?



I've used much more heat sensitive stuff than BF on wheels with no significant issues, and I've used BF's All Finish Paint Protection on the S8's front calipers (which I get pretty hot ;) ) with no problems at all.



But I'd still use the FK1000P myself, if only because it sheds dirt better/longer.
 
Well here's some pics guys... everything came out pretty nice. I had a guy tell me he felt like the Flex was a little to harsh for a new car, but a PC takes forever and i'm using a white pad with Menzerna Super Finish and the Flex set on 4, anyone else feel like it was a little to harsh?



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