How to DIY Some Basic Car Maintenece

[Swanicyouth]

I thought I would start a thread regarding common vehicle maintenance & repairs - since I'm doing some. I'm hoping others will add to this when they get the chance. Basically, I do all my own maintenance repairs I can at home. Most of this stuff is pretty simple. It just takes some time, research, patience, and the correct tools. I do have a background as mechanic, but pretty much anyone without physical limitations can do most of this stuff.

A few rules I try to follow:

1. Always research what you are about to do if you have never done it before. The internet and car forums are a great resource for this. It's as simple as typing something like "BMW E46 strut replacement" (or whatever you are doing) into Google.

2. Always have the right tools on hand. You don't need the most expensive tools - just the correct tools for the correct job. Having to stop what you are doing to go out and buy a tool is not fun. If in doubt, buy it and save the receipt. If you don't use it - return it. A lot of places like Advance Auto have programs where you can "rent" a lot of specialty tools for free. You just have to buy them - then they refund your money 100% when you bring them back. This works well for a tool like a spring compressor or a ball joint press that you probably won't use very frequently. Most hand tools from Harbor Freight are cheap and work just fine for DIY type jobs. Since your DIYing it - you'll be saving a ton of money anyway - so spend some of it to get the right tools.

Anytime your doing anything where a bolt could possibly be seized by rust or corrosion, a simple plumbers torch can really save the day when all options fail. I can't tell you how many times I've tried almost anything and everything to get an old rusty or stripped bolt free and heating it up with a plumbers torch saved me from complete frustration. Acetylene & MAP gas torches work a little better than propane - but a plumbers torch usually will get the job done - and no oxygen is required. Cost is about ~ $20.

3. Have towels, rags, gloves,clean-up stuff and whatever ancillary supplies you will likely need on hand as well. When doing greasy stuff, I always have several bottle of Brake Kleen on hand as well. It degreases tools, bearings, spilled/dripped oil, and engine grime pretty much better than anything else out there that is readily available. The only caveat is that a can doesn't go very far.

4. Get any and every part you will think you could possibly need. Stuff like rivets, plugs, screws, bolts, etc... are easy to overlook. Depending on exactly what you are doing, a lot of times a bolt could break - or possibly even get lost. These parts can be ordered from a dealer and are usually pretty cheap. Nothing is worse than having a stripped bolt or snapped plastics rivets - only to find out they are dealer parts only - and the dealer has to order them. This could hold you up several days.

5. Buy the right parts and any ancillary parts that may be "once and done" to get to the right parts on your car. There is no point in trying to save a few bucks by reusing parts that have probably seen better days. So, if your doing something like a brake job - pick up the caliper pins, wear sensors, and brake hardware before you start. Again, these things are pretty cheap and can sometimes not be in the best shape once a car is several years old.

So, what I'm doing today is pretty easy. I'm changing the coolant/antifreeze, manual transmission fluid, differential fluid, & flushing the brake fluid. But, I'm guessing a BMW dealer would charge me well over $1200 to do this work. Doing it yourself is significantly cheaper and you are assured it's done correctly. My cost on the factory fluids & new drain plugs was about $300.

If you think $1200 is crazy to change some fluids - it's not. My friend just took his X5 to the local BMW dealer for state inspection. Car passed - except for one thing. It needed new wiper blades. The X5 has three. Total BMW dealer cost (including new blades) to replace them: $159. I'm guessing half was "parts" and half "labor".

Another point I'd like to bring up is DIY'ing it can assure that the correct factory fluids are used in your vehicle. While you would THINK a dealer would always use the manufacturer's factory fluids in a dealer setting - this is not always the case. I used to work at a dealer, and we RARELY used factory fluids. We used whatever the parts department bought in a 50 gallon drum. Oil was oil. Gear oil was gear oil. That was it. There were no weights or types. Nobody cared. Garages are even scarier to me. Not only will you likely not get factory fluids - but you may even get the wrong fluid. You may not even get the fluid you are paying for.

So, here are some of the tools to do this job:

Doing under car work requires jacking the car up. It's mandatory to use (a) jack stand(s) if your going to jack a car up - unless you want to die. Cars can slip off a jack in a second. Jacks can leak and bleed down. People have been killed this way. If jacking up one corner of the car - leave the vehicle's weight on the the jack and use the jack stand as a safety as well.

Here you can see what I mean. The car is on the jack at the jacking point and the jack stand is there as a safety (one wheel jacked up only):

Often times on newer (lower / sports ) cars it's a huge PIA to jack the car up and place it on a jack stand. This is because some cars have jacking points at four corners - and once they are jacked up - the jack is in the way of resting the car on the jack stand at the jacking point. BMWs are notorious for this. They have central jacking points as well, however most people don't have a jack long enough to access those points.

The best way I've found around this is to jack the car up by the crimp weld using a block of wood, like this:

I've been using this same block of wood for years for this purpose. While technically jacking most cars up by the crimp weld is a no-no, the block of wood disperse the weight on the jack and causes no damage if done correctly. This will allow you rest the car on jack stands at the jacking points if need be. I've done this numerous times without so much as a scratch.

To start...

*Changing Coolant / Antifreeze -

This is pretty easy. If you can jack up a car and unscrew a bolt you can do this. The trick is to have a big drain pan, something to lay on (besides the dirty ground), and even a tray for under the drain pan:

I always try to change fluids when they are warm (not hot). Obviously, you don't want to open a hot radiator. But, fluids tend to flow better when they are a bit warm. You want to get as much of the old fluid out as possible before adding the new stuff.

Most coolant comes neat and needs to be diluted. It's best to dilute coolant with distilled water. Usually the dilution ratio is about 50:50. So, you need to mix the coolant with water. This should be done before you add the coolant to the system IMHO - as once you add it you likely won't know how much you have added or you may have added more coolant than the system can fit water to dilute it. Then, you will never know if the ratio is correct.

For this reason, I never flush a cooling system with water. While you can get the systems capacity and try and figure out how much water is in there by adding half the system's capacity of coolant - this always seems to me more headaches than it's worth - as you will never know for sure if the system is 100% empty ( it's likely not) -'which will through off your ratio when adding the new stuff using the cooling system capacity method. I only ad / flush old coolant with new coolant diluted to the correct ratio.

First, find your coolant reservoir or overflow cap and remove it:

A lot of newer cars have plastic shields that must be removed to access drain plugs. These are the shields I am talking about:

These shields are usually easily removed by unscrewing a bunch of small bolts. The worse part about this is just having to lay on your back to do it. shield removed:

Then you want to drain the coolant out of the coolant drain - which is usually on the bottom of the radiator:

The coolant drain plug on most vehicles simply unscrews. It's also plastic now a days on most cars - so be careful not to break it or over tighten it. I'm sure someone someplace sells a special "BMW coolant plug tool" to do this, but I've found a chisel works well to remove this plug.

Let the coolant drain completely and then replace the drain plug underneath. A lot of cars also have coolant drains on the engine block. IMHO if your smart - you will not mess with this. Access to this may be difficult and damaging threads here could be catastrophic. Whenever you remove any plug - the possibility exists (albeit unlikely) that a leak could form as well. So, I would not touch the drain plug in the block. Instead, I just choose to spend the few extra bucks on extra coolant to change the coolant twice so 95%+ of the old stuff is removed.

Once the plug is reinstalled, just add you pre-diluted coolant until the system is full. Some new cars have a port to bleed the air out of the coolant separate from the over fill cap. The one on my car looks like this:

Again, if you are smart - I would not mess with this. While I'm sure one exists someplace - I've never had a car I couldn't bleed the cooling system from wherever it uses as the pressure cap. Bleeding the system simply entails letting the car run and letting the trapped air / bubbles come to the surface:

You want to keep an eye on the engine temperature and bring the car up to operating temperature - all while keeping an eye on the the coolant level. Once the thermostat opens - the level will drop a bit. Be ready to add more diluted coolant and to let the system bleed a few more minutes. Feeling the upper and lower radiator hoses can give you an idea when the thermostat opens. They should both feel equally as hot. Don't burn yourself here. Squeezing the hoses a bit can also help to bring any trapped air to the surface. Don't cut off your hand with the fan. Once you are confident all the air has left the system - replace the cap. Re-check the coolant level after driving a few miles with the car at operating temperature.


* Changing Differential & Manual Transmission Fluid:

Most cars today I believe come with "filled for life" differential and manual/automatic transmission fluid (but, not this car). Performance type cars may be the exception here. If your car is RWD - the job is pretty simple, albeit a PIA to crawl under the car and work on your back.

Basically a transmission (manual) and differential have ingot & out got plugs. You use the lowest plug to drain the fluid - and the higher plug to fill it. Filling it entails adding fluid until it starts to run out of the top plug hole. It sounds pretty easy, but like most things, there is a good way and a bad way to do it.

First you will need some type of pump or similar to pump the new fluid back in after the old fluid has been drained. Often times the upper fluid hole can be quite difficult to get to, so if your working on the ground - you will need extension tubing for your pump so it reaches to clear the car. I do this because I find it nearly IMPOSSIBLE to pump a fluid pump while laying on my back underneath a car that is touching my nose. You can get this tubing at any hardware store. I always get clear tubing - so I can see what is going in.

Secondly, avoid any pump that looks like this like the plague:

These pumps are what's usually available at Pep Boys and whatnot - but they are horrible. They leak fluid all over the place. They leak fluid out the back and out the sides. They are just bad. I believe they were put here as a plot by mechanic shops to torture DIY'ers into never wanting to touch their own cars.

This type of pump:

works pretty well, but is meant to fit on a gallon jug. It's limited in the volume of fluid it can pump quickly though quickly - as the pump mechanism isn't super efficient. But, you can use it without making a huge mess.

The best pump I've found is this one:

This pump doesn't leak a drop and can move a large volume of fluid quickly and easily. It also fits pretty much in any bottle - as it sort of has a rubber tapered seal.

A lot of times the fill hole in transmissions is smaller that the tubing that fits on a pump that can move a lot of fluid quickly. So, just get a smaller piece of tubing and make an adapter like this:

So, you have to take out the plugs and drain the fluid first. Always make sure the top (fill) plug can be loosened before taking out the bottom (drain) plug. Because, if the top plug is seized or stripped - once you drain your fluid out you will not be able to get new fluid in the top hole if you can't remove the plug. These thicker fluids are best drained when their temperature is warm to hot. I also replace the fill/drain plugs every 2 fluid changes. Not because I'm afraid they will leak - but because they are made out of aluminum here and are easy to strip the Allen socket head part.

Here is the top (fill) hole of the transmission:

As you can see, clearance is tight. Do anything possible not to strip this plug or you will likely be pulling the transmission.

The bottom plug is directly on the bottom middle of the transmission most of the times - and looks just like the top. Once your sure the top can be freed - remove the bottom plug and drain the fluid.

The trick here is to either jack the car up perfectly level; or to jack the car up, remove the plug, then lower the car on the oil tub - so ALL the old fluid comes out. If the car is angled, a puddle of old fluid can remain in the transmission and not drain (drain in center of transmission).

The trick to filling it properly is to jack the car up by the side the fill plug is on - that way the fill side will be a bit elevated - which will ensure you can get enough fluid in the hole before it starts to run out. I've done it both ways and found out the difference can be as much as a 1/3 of a quart. Which is a lot in a transmission that holds under 2 quarts.

Fill line going into transmission:

Assuming you have the car jacked up correctly, now you just pump in the fluid until it begins to run out and replace the fill plug.

Changing differential fluid is pretty similar. First I had to lower a shield:

The plugs here are both on the same side:

Again, you will need to jack up the car to gain access to the plugs - but you should lower the car flat or raise it by the opposite side of the drain plug (plug on side) - so all the fluid runs out (unless car is lifted evenly). Sometimes differential bolts get seized - which isn't too common with the aluminum type plugs used here. If the plugs are iron and the differential is iron - they can corrode together. Instead of pulling your hair out, heating them up with a plumbers torch will usually make them easy to remove.

Again, make sure top plug can be removed before you drain the fluid out:

Fluid drains:

Normally to refill the differential you can use either of the two good type pumps above. However, this BMW friction modified gear oil is crazy expensive at $50 a quart. Due to the cost, I'm skipping a pump here - as I need to get pretty much all 3 quarts 100% in the differential without waisting any fluid hanging up in the pump mechanism that I will not be able to pump in once the pump runs dry.

The bottles come with these little nipples on them:

So here, I simply attached some plastic hose long enough to reach outside the car (above the differential) so I could squeeze it in. When you do this you want to make sure the plastic hose is secure in the fill hole, or it can pop out and differential fluid will squirt all over. Try to rout the hose so it's above the fill hole - this will make it easier to pump the fluid in.

Routing of hose:

Squeezing the new fluid in. Always remember to replace you lower plug before you pump any fluid in or your fluid will end up on the floor.

Once the fluid starts to run out the fill hole - quickly replace the plug. I did this by jacking the vehicle up by the same side the fill hole is located on the differential while filling it. So, that side is elevated and you can get enough fluid in before it starts dripping out. Remove your fill hose and replace your fill plug and your done.

You can use a torque wrench to torque these bolts to factory specs if possible. I've been doing this long enough -'that I don't do it. Access may be almost impossible with a torque wrench to certain fill plugs as well. Basically, you want it tight - but not so tight your using your weight on the ratchet to tighten it.

*Changing Brake Fluid:

Brake fluid is often a neglected part of the vehicle. However, brake fluid can take on water from the atmosphere over time - causing all types of components in your braking system to fail. It should be changed every 2 years or so for regular DOT 3 or 4 type fluids. If you do this, it's very unlikely you will have a brake issue due to a hydraulic component's internal failure.

Before you actually do anything with brake hydraulics - the first thing you should do is check all the calipers and make sure the bleeders are not seized:

This is done by simply unscrewing the bleeder and making sure it's free.

Basically, changing brake fluid means beading out the old fluid with new fluid - while never letting the master cylinder run dry. Once the master cylinder runs dry you have air in the brake system - which may be easy or not so easy to get out. So, the best way I have found to do this without any headaches is to use the Motive Brake Bleeder.

It costs about $50 and is one of those tools that once you use - you will never want to do it the old way. Basically, you fill the reservoir in the bleeder with 2 quarts of new brake fluid. Then, you screw it to the top of your master cylinder like so:

Motive sells all sorts of adapters for all sorts of master cylinders - but the one it comes with is pretty common.

After that you pump the top lever up to about 10 psi and check the device is holding pressure and there is no leak.

Once you are assured the system is sealed, you start from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (RR) and work towards the caliper closest to the master cylinder (LF). The Motive Bleeder is pumped to about 20 psi and each bleeder is opened until enough fluid is flushed through to get the old fluid out.

Since I'm using two quarts here (that is more than enough), basically I'm going to use the empty brake fluid containers as fluid catches for the old fluid. I can judge when each caliper has bled through approximately 1/2 a quart and move on to the next caliper.

All you have to do when the bleeder is hooked up is open the bleeder screws and let the fluid flow out. But, again - there is a good way and a bad way to do this. The bad way is just to open the bleeder and let it squirt all over you wheel wells, suspension, and floor. The good way is to use a piece of clear tubing that stretches over the bleeder nipple like so:

 

[Swanicyouth]

When fluid first starts flowing (old fluid) it will be darker than the new fluid:

This fluid is just under 2 years old - so it's not very dark. Old brake fluid will turn a very dark brown. It should be sort of clear and golden looking.

You can tell when you are pumping out clean fluid because the color is a bit lighter. If your fluid is dark brown - it will be much more obvious...

New fluid going in the master cylinder:

New fluid coming out the caliper:

Once your are sure new fluid is coming out, and you've pumped through about a 1/4 of your new fluid volume per wheel, close the bleeder and move on to the next wheel. Once you are done all 4 wheels - let the pressure out of the bleeder by cracking the lid. The device always leaves the master cylinder filled to the perfect level for me.

Most people probably know brake fluid can ruin your paint. So, when working with it, you just have to be super careful not to get it on paint. I've had this bleeder for 6 years and it's great. It doesn't leak or spray fluid everywhere. It's easy to use and works like you would expect it to. Once it's hooked up properly - it's a sealed system. So, fluid can't fly out allover your engine and paint. It just works. Again, any shop may or may not be so careful with brake fluid spilling or spraying little dots on your paint... You just don't know...

So, I'm hoping this post may inspire some of you to do some basic maintenance on your vehicles. It's not only cheaper - but if you do it yourself you will be sure it's done right and any "issues" you run into during the way can be addressed correctly.

One "issue" I ran into here, was when I was pulling the wheels - they were seized to the aluminum hubs. I've seen this on BMWs before - but never this bad. Usually, you can just kick at the tire when this happens and the wheel will come free. However, this time - it was not the case. I'm guessing this happened from pressure washing the car/wheels - and just pulling it in the garage. Some water probably sits in there that would come out if I drove it right after.

When working on cars, I've found problems will arise. It's important to keep your head and not get desperate to try "anything" to "fix" it. "Anything" will usually entail rigging something up or breaking something else in the process. That is bad. Take a moment to think about the situation and consider your options. If you need another tool to fix something - go buy it. Don't try to use a tool that will damage or break something else because it's not the right tool. You will save yourself a huge headache in the end.

I can tell you *most* dealer type places will solve the seized wheel issue by beating on the back of the wheel with a sledge hammer or using an air chisel between the rotor hub and the wheel hub. You may not believe me - but believe it. I've been there and done that. Mechanics don't get paid (usually) for removing seized wheels. Just for the work that's done once the wheel is removed.

Most people probably are not going to inspect the back of their wheel or their hub (at least until it's far too late) - mechanics know these things. They don't set out to break something - but time is money when you are turning wrenches. Most do what they can get away with IME. Again, when you do the work yourself and "issues" arrive - you can make sure they are addressed in a competent (not always the quickest or easiest) manner.

The BEST way I've found to removed seized wheels is to spray the hubs with WD-40 and let them soak a bit:

If they are SEIZED - no amount of WD-40 will do the job...But it will help. Next what you do is get a small piece of 2"x4" (like my jack "buffer"):

And wrap it in a thick cotton cloth towel a few times. Then, GENTLY go around the back of the wheel (obviously, car is jacked up and lug nuts removed here) and tap the wheel. You may need to hit it kind of HARD - but, I've found the the thick cotton towel and the board will not mar or bend the wheel.

I know this because I've had to do this more than once when getting new tires (I don't let tire places dismount my wheels on this car - I bring the wheels off the car) and the wheels never where bent, wobbled, or were marred. I've found this method to be a reliable and safe way to remove wheels seized to the hub.

Although, 2 years or so ago I went through this same thing - the wheel still corrodes to the hub:

That white stuff you see on the hub is the anti-seize I applied 2 years ago to the hub once I stripped the rust off. So, it's time to do it again - but this time I'm going to try a coating of caliper grease to see how that holds up.

Here I cleaned up the hubs pretty well using WD-40 and a steel brush:

Hub is pretty clean:

Next I just cleaned everything with Brake Kleen and applied a thin layer of caliper grease to the back of wheel and the hub. We will see if I have this issue next time. I can pretty much guarantee no shop will take this care to do this...No shop I've worked for at least. Most places I've worked it would go: beat the wheel off from the back with a hammer, do what work you had to do - then just air gun it back on to like 360 ft lbs.

Maybe I've given some pone some reason to try to work on your own cars to do some basic things??? Good luck.

 

[Stokdgs]

Outstanding information and pics !!!

And you are working on my FAV car - BMW !!!

Been there and done that with you, going back to before you were born..

I like the idea of putting hose clamps on your wood block to keep it from splitting..

Craftsman used to make a floor jack that uses stands that extend as the jack is raised and then stay there and you pull the jack out and set up the next stand.. Its handy if you have a normal height vehicle but wont work with really lowered vehicles like a Bimmer on H&R really low springs, etc..

It's still the same process, only thing that changed is more plastic parts (scary), where there were more metal, brass, etc...

I love manual transmissions, so easy to maintain..

Too bad BMW Automatic transmissions are harder to do than just dropping the pan, changing the filter, adding fluid and checking the dipstick.. But it's all do-able !

I like the use of the word LifeTime Fluids !!!
Especially since there is no such thing as a LifeTime Fluid !

I think the Automakers mean the Fluids will last the LifeTime of the transmission, differential, etc., which of course, will be drastically reduced because the fluid has never been changed...

Great idea and execution !! Thanks for putting all this together !
DanF

 

[mnehls86]

Very good write up! I think I will be buying a Motive Brake Bleeder now. I always thought about buying one but was always worried about stuff I heard about on the cheap ones and thought they might all be junk. That sure looks easier than one person on the bleeder screw and one pumping the brakes and keeping an eye on the fluid levels lol.

 

[PA DETAILER]

WOW!! Outstanding writeup. And i am a stickler for maintaining. Here is a great site to register your car and keep all records. I really like it.

www.driverside.com

 

[Ronkh]

Nice write up

You forgot to add that brake fluid makes great tire shine

 

[ElLeon]

Notes to the above:

1) Get a proper jack and you won't have problems with lowered cars, or movement of the jack around obstacles.

2) Amsoil: Best hand pump i've ever used. Done over a dozen fills (5x transmission, 8x rear diff, 2x transfer case) and not a single drip from the piston or seal.

AMSOIL Bottle Hand Pump

 

[Swanicyouth]

Notes to the above:

1) Get a proper jack and you won't have problems with lowered cars, or movement of the jack around obstacles.

2) Amsoil: Best hand pump i've ever used. Done over a dozen fills (5x transmission, 8x rear diff, 2x transfer case) and not a single drip from the piston or seal.

AMSOIL Bottle Hand Pump

The potential jack issue I was pointing out isn't that the car is "low" - it's that the 4 side jack points cannot be accessed by a jack stand - when you use the said jack points to jack up the vehicle with a jack at each side. The jack point on BMWs is not big enough to fit the jack AND jack stand. But, I did mention all at I believe.

These cars also have central jacking points. However, 2 reasons why I don't use them:

1. It seems to me if you are jacking the car from the vehicle center, the potential exists for it to flip flop off the jack on one side if it's not perfectly straight.

2. You need a jack super long like the red one in this picture to reach the central jacking points:

That red jack may not even clear the oil pan on a lower car - not sure. Most people use jacks like the blue one in the above picture, because they cost a lot less - and they don't take up a ton of space to store.

Another way to do it with BMWs is to jack the car up by the jacking point and put the jack stand where the control arm bolts to the unibody in he rear. However, I really don't like doing it that way either, because the jacks stands are closer to the center of the vehicle - making it more likely to tip in my mind.

 

[tropicsteve]

great write up, I definitely diy whenever I can. online info. has saved me on more than one occasion for sure.
for any Harley riders out there, I can't say enough about fix my hog videos for repair and maintenance diy. Home - Fix My Hog. those plus the Harley service manual are invaluable and have saved me thousands since my bike was new in 2005. just something about seeing it done can make things so much easier to learn.

 

[Swanicyouth]

This is a "how to" regarding valve adjustment and spark plug replacement on a BMW E85 / Z4 M with the S54 engine. While there is a lot of DIY's on how to do this on E46 M3 - there are some subtle disassembly differences between the two vehicles. I have never seen anyone do a comprehensive DIY on the Z4 M of the the valve adjustment procedure. The small Z4 M community always has to refer to the M3 procedure.

My purpose in doing this is to assemble comprehensive documentation of this procedure on a Z4 M from start to finish. I want to make this DIY so comprehensive - that almost anyone at home can do it. My attempt here is to think of ALMOST anything that could go wrong - and how to avoid it. Also, I would like to assemble a large compendium of information in one place regarding this procedure and the items needed to complete it.

I'd like to give a few words of advice about working on your own car. I've been fixing cars both professionally and at home for 25 years (no longer in the field). Nothing is more frustrating then breaking something, loosing something, or not having what you need on hand to complete the job. Take your time. Plan for multiple days to do more complicated work. Do not rush.

Breaking parts, connectors, wires, etc... can be an aggravating or costly (but mostly avoidable) disaster. Loosing bolts, breaking plastic rivets, or stripping threads means usually "rigging" up some fix that may not appear or work as the factory originally intended - or costing you more money and down time of your vehicle. Most of these "disasters", in my experience, can be avoided by taking your time, thinking things out, and treating everything like a fragile/costly and easily breakable part.

A job like this could likely be completed in 3-4 hours. I took my time, planned ahead, and purchased everything I could possibly need - and took about 8 hours over 2 days to do this job. While this is very slow work (I was also taking pictures and documenting for this article) - not a single connector, rivet, bolt, etc... was stripped, broken, or lost. It's my car - so I want it to be perfect and don't want any headaches in the process. Since I took my time - I know everything was done right and had no issues.

****Some Background

Valves open and close to let fuel into the engine and spent exhaust gasses out. Most vehicles today have hydraulic valve lifters that do not require adjustment. The S54 has solid lifters - therefore they require periodic adjustment. BMW recommends adjusting the valve clearances during every Inspection I & II. When exactly these inspections are required will vary based on the vehicle - as they are determined by the gallons of fuel the vehicle uses. Each inspection usually will fall somewhere between 20-30k miles.

Why do you have to adjust valves? Valve lash/clearance (the "play" or distance between the cam shaft and the rocker arm on S54) is critical for a number of reasons. If the valve is "too tight" (not enough lash) the valve will not seat on the valve seat for long enough - possibly causing the valve to burn (exhaust valves more likely here) and wear quickly . If the valves are "too loose" (too much lash) the engine will not "breath well" and poor performance and fuel economy will result. The valve train will also be noisy and excessive valve train wear will occur. Both situations can mean your engine will wear faster and run poorly.

How do you adjust valve "lash" or clearance on the S54? Valve clearance is adjusted on the S54 by replacing variable size "shims"/"pucks"/tappets between the valve tip and the rocker arm. For continuity sake - I will just call these "shims" from now on. All the valves come from the factory with a shim between the valve and the rocker arm. You are not determining if a shim is needed or not - but WHAT shim is needed - if the valves are out of spec. Any shim removed can be reused (assuming it's not burnt or damaged) if it's the correct thickness for another valve.


****Some Special Things You Need to Accomplish This Job

1. Drei Bond 1209/generic RTV:

Drei Bond 1209 is the RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) non solvent type silicone based sealant BMW recommends for the 2 half moon cutouts in the back of the head and the area where the head meets the VANOS (specifics on this later). This sealant is used between the head surface and the valve cover. "Drei" means "three" in German - so sometimes this product is referred to as Three/3 Bond 1209. The problem is - this stuff seems to be no longer available from BMW. In doing a little research on this product I found that it may or may not actually be available from BMW in The USA... However, Porsche also recommends this product and it's available from multiple Porsche websites. I believe the Porsche part number is: 000-043-203-73

An alternate RTV I've seen quoted was 3M 8661 and Loctite 80036/(PX66BR). For whatever reason, the Loctite number seems to bring up a valve grinding compound when you Google it. The 3M product doesn't look particularly appetizing to me - as it says you can use it on wood and all kinds of junk. So, since an RTV like product will be needed to do this job - I'd recommend just getting what is printed in BMW TIS - Drei Bond 1209.

Of course, Drei Bond 1209 cost a boat load of money (~ $30-$40 an ounce), compared to a tube of Permatex RTV from Pep Boys (~ $7 for multiple ounces). Will it make a difference wether you use Drei Bond 1209 or Permatex? Maybe so - maybe not. But, if going the Pep Boys/Permatex route, I'd recommend the best spec'ed RTV they have.

Some specs on Drei Bond 1209:

*1209 Non-solvent type silicone-based
-Offers the most excellent heat resistance among silicone-based sealants.
-Contains very little volatile low molecular siloxane (less than 0.03%).
-Does not corrode copper and copperbased alloys.
-Temperature resistant up to 200° C (~ 390° F).

2. Multiple cans of Brake Kleen (or generic):

I'm just going to call all brake cleaning products Brake Kleen - because that is just what I call it. I can tell you this stuff is almost a necessity to clean oil 100% off gasket mating surfaces so they are contaminate free before re-assembling. Oil on the gasket / gasket surface may mean your RTV may not cure correctly or your gasket may leak. So, in my book, this is an important step. Brake Kleen is so useful because it quickly removes most/all oil and grease and leaves no residue (vaporizes/flashes off 100%). That being said, a single can doesn't seem to go very far for me at least - so I always keep several.

Brake Kleen comes in two common types: chlorinated and non-chlorinated. If you happen to be in the state of California, I believe your only choice is the non-chlorinated type if sourced within state legally. It's my opinion that the chlorinated stuff just works better. However, do not use the chlorinated stuff around welding or anything hot that will cause the chlorinated Brake Kleen to rapidly give off vapors creating *PHOSGENE GAS*. Phosgene gas was used by various participants of WWI as a poisonous gas / weapon of war ("poison gas"). So, do not use this stuff in closed doors, around heat, and do not breath this stuff in.

Chlorinated Brake Kleen has also been shown to be carcinogenic (banned in CA) and can damage certain plastics and possibly paint. It is also flammable, whereas non-chlorinated Brake Kleen isn't as flammable (still flammable) - and is kinder to plastics/paint. While chlorinated Brake Kleen is worse for your health and worse for the environment - I'll still grab it over the non-chlorinated stuff every time. I don't use it much, breath it in, spray it in my mouth and eyes, or spray it on my paint.

3. Micrometer:

A micrometer is necessary to measure the thickness of the valve shim you take out - so you can figure out what size shim you need to put in. The micrometer I'm using is the 0-1" Mechanical Micrometer from Harbor Freight Tools. While Harbor Freight isn't known for their precision tool manufacturing, I did a little research on this micrometer and it actually tests quite accurate. Cost is about $22. I would not recommend using a micrometer bigger than 1" for this job.

The HF micrometer is sold as being accurate to 0.0001" (that's one TEN thousandths of an inch - or one piece of an inch broken up into ten thousand parts). I wouldn't spend too much on a micrometer. Units like this are considered accurate to 1/10,000". The clearance that needs to be measured here is 1/1000" (one ONE thousandths of an inch) - so most micrometers in the 1" range should be accurate enough. Another nice thing about this unit is it comes with an analogue reading display on the side. The micrometer zeroed out perfectly right out of the box for me. But it does include a little wrench in the case to adjust it if need be.

BMW actually specs the valve clearances in metric. It's easy enough to flip flop back and forth using an inch to millimeter converter which is easy enough to find on Google. I am choosing to do my measurements in standard opposed to metric. The reason for this is the micrometer I choose reads in standard measurement. While places like Harbor Freight do sell micrometers that have digital read outs on the side in standard AND metric - the actual barrel readings can only be calibrated one way. I prefer to check both readings to make sure the tool is consistent. I do not like relying on digital read outs for work like this. I found it a bit difficult to locally source a true metric barrel reading micrometer at the cost of this unit. However, for the easily confused - it may be worth ordering one online or just picking up one with a digital readout that can convert to metric for simplicity sake.

4. Feeler Gauges:

I would recommend getting a set of "bent" or angled feeler gauges. These are just easier to get between the cam and the rocker arm to measure valve clearance. However, you likely want to find a set that has all the feeler gauges between the range of the valve clearance specifications and then some. Intake spec is 0.007" - 0.009" (0.18-0.23 mm). Exhaust spec is 0.011" - 0.013" (0.28mm - 0.33mm). So, in my opinion, a set that has ALL the numbers from at least 0.005" - 0.015" is a good bet. Surprisingly, most feeler gauge sets do not have all the consecutive numbers in that range. They may not even have your target numbers (0.008" & 0.012"). However, a bent/angled set that does isn't too hard to find.

Most (if not all) feeler gauges have both metric and standard readings stamped on them. So, this usually isn't an issue. The set I decided to go with was easily sourced locally at Pep Boys. It's OEM brand tools #25349 Offset Feeler Gauge 16 Blades. It contains all feeler gauges from 0.005" (0.13 mm) to 0.020" (0.51 mm) - all the sizes you will need. I think it cost about $7.

5. Torque Wrench:

This may be optional - depending on your opinion. I've replaced valve cover gaskets on BMW inline 6 engines multiple times before and have never used a torque wrench. For those that may not know, a torque wrench is a tool to tighten a bolt to a specific torque or "tightness". There are manufacturer specs for the torque of the valve cover bolts ( ~ 8 ft/lbs * 10mm bolts), spark plugs (~ 20 ft lbs), and the banjo oil bolt (18 ft lbs * 17mm bolt) on the side of the valve cover. However, knowing when to stop tightening the valve cover bolts is pretty easy; as they sort of "bottom out". The banjo bolt is also pretty easy to figure out how tight is tight enough. The important thing here is not to over tighten either one of these/any bolts - as the last thing you want to do is snap a bolt.

The torque wrench I use for spark plugs and the banjo bolt is a cheap 3/8" one from Harbor Freight (~ $22). Again, it surprisingly reviews pretty accurate by numerous reviewers who have tested it - especially great for the price. The manufacturer claims accuracy +/- 4% and the range of the 3/8" size is 5-80 ft/lbs. This makes it usable for most wheels (~ 80 ft lbs) and most regular bolts. You can get a torque wrench that is more precise than 4% accuracy. Most torque wrenches are not quite as accurate at their lower measurements (~ 15-20% off at the lowest 20% of their scale) However, plan to spend 3-8x as much. I don't know if I would be using the Harbor Freight torque wrench to torque rod or main bearings - but I bought it mainly to ballpark most car wheel lugs. Of course, it would be ideal to have a torque wrench in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".... However, a 3/8" is a good compromise if you only want to buy one for general work. When working with a torque wrench always handle it gently and torque bolts slowly.

6. 1/2" drive 32mm Socket & 1/2" Drive Long Handle Ratchet:

Not too much to say here. You will need a 32mm socket to turn the crankshaft bolt. That in turn will turn the timing chain which will turn the cams - so you can adjust the valves while they are unloaded. You can get any generic 32mm socket at most Pep Boys type places.

Early S54 engines do not have a 32mm bolt at the crankshaft. They have four protruding external Torx head type bolts. You can not use a 32mm socket to turn the crankshaft with this set up. You should be able to use a 36mm 12 point 1/2" drive socket, or BMW has a special tool for this: BMW crankshaft turning socket (83-30-0-491-056). However, these where not fitted to any Z4 M cars - only early E46 M.

The job will be much easier with a long 1/2" handle ratchet. This is because the crankshaft is at the bottom of the engine, and on E85 M it's pretty hard to reach your hand down there. Also, a longer handle ratchet will give you more leverage turning the engine. A long handle ratchet helps a lot. The one I'm using is from Harbor Freight as well. It's 1/2" drive with a telescoping handle. It extends to 17" and costs about $17. It's more than enough to do this job. You will also need a 1/2" extension that is about 2.5" long.

7. BMW S54 Valve Adjustment Kit & Shim Installer Tool

The "shim kit" comes with shims you need to adjust valve lash on the S54 engine. The BMW part number is: shim set #11340031525. The kit comes with 6 shims of 23 sizes (138 shims) in a case with space for 6 extra shims. The BMW part number for the shim installer tool is: #83300493743. Each different size of shim has a BMW part number as well. The tool is a bent magnetized "stick" that allows you to easily pick up the valve shim from the top of the valve via magnetism once the rocker arm is unlocked and slid over. It is also used to install the new shim.

Some have fabricated their own tool using various things and a magnet. It's not worth the hassle for me - so I'd just recommend getting the pre-made tool. The tool is important - as the last thing you want to do is to loose a shim in the engine compartment or in the actual engine (gasp!) somewhere.

I've seen the shim kits online priced anywhere from $390-$600. So prices vary - shop around. Picking up a used shim kit may be a viable option - but you may want to find out if the kit is complete or what shims are missing first. Since replacement of a shim leaves you with an old shim to store in your kit - the kit may look "complete"; but may contain "old shims" of various sizes. Using "old shims" is no problem; as long as the are of the correct thickness and do not look dished or especially worn (unlikely - unless they came from an oil starved engine).

Shims can also be purchased individually from BMW in all the sizes the kit contains. However, this will likely require ordering shims from the dealer or online, unless you know of a dealer that stocks all the shim sizes. This also will likely require the car being down for several days while you are waiting for your shims. Another point is, while the shims are pre-measured in certain sizes and you should get a shim exactly the size that is stamped on it -this may not always be the case. Sometimes the shim you need may be on the borderline and the shim you order may be a hair off. So, this puts you back to square one ordering another shim if the clearance isn't correct.

To me, it's just not worth it. So, if you can afford it and plan on keeping your S54 vehicle - I'd just buy the whole set. Another point is, used shim kits sell on eBay for almost the price of a new kit. So, worse case scenario is you could sell it after using it for almost what you paid for it. If you want to keep the kit "complete" - you can order replacement shims from BMW to make up for the shims you use during your adjustment.

While the price of the shim kit is a bit costly, there are alternatives (generics). This is up to you if you "trust" these shims are just as good. I have read they are - but can't vouch for them myself. The popular alternative shim kit is from WiseCo (VSK4) and costs about $40.

8. Other Stuff

You will also need common hand tools: ratchets, extensions, screwdrivers, pliers, sockets, Torx sockets, parts brush, small picks, and a 5/8" spark plug socket with rubber holder inside (almost all these sockets have this). I also recommend picking up some type of small plastic scraper to remove the little bit of RTV that will stick on the head once the valve cover is removed. Pick up a few rolls of mechanics disposable towels as well. Small plastic baggies are good to place your nuts and bolts in to keep them separate, organized, and from getting lost.

You should also get a small tube of anti-seize for the spark plug threads and some di-electric grease for the spark plug boots. I'd also recommend a tube of engine assembly grease to aid in holding the shims in place on top of the valve while you reinstall the rocker arms. Having a paint pen, Sharpie, or wax crayon is also a good idea - in case there is anything you want to mark (connectors, coils, etc...). Lay everything out you will need before starting and work in a clean and organized environment.

9. Parts

You will need some parts to complete the job. The valve cover gasket is technically reusable, but I think it's a better idea just to replace it - along with the 15 grommets that go with its mounting. I also recommend picking up one of each of the two types of valve cover fastener assemblies (nuts/studs along with washers) in case one is inadvertently broken or dropped and lost in the engine compartment during disassembly. They are only a few dollars.

The brass crush washers for the oil feed banjo bolt are single use and need to be replaced. You will also need 6 new spark plugs. I recommend buying all BMW brand parts to save yourself any headache of dealing with aftermarket parts that are close - but not close enough.

BMW part numbers:

Valve cover gasket (1): 11 12 7 832 034
Rubber seal / grommet (13): 11 12 7 830 972
Rubber seal / grommet (2) 11 12 1 437 395
Cap nut assembly (extra stud/washer/grommet for valve cover in case lost): 11 12 7 838 078
Cap nut assembly (extra nut/washer/grommet for valve cover in case lost): 11 12 7 838 075
Profile (spark plug) gasket (6): 11 12 7 831 271
Gasket ring / copper washers: (at least 2): 07 11 9 963 129
BMW shim kit (1): 11 34 0 031 525
BMW shim installation tool (1): 83 30 0 493 743
Spark plugs [NGK DCPR8EKP] (6): 12 12 0 022 902

Most of what you'll need (minus basic hand tools, di-electric grease, torque wrench, and engine assembly grease):

BMW Shim Kit:

S54 Z4 M Roadster:

****Procedure:

First, it's always recommended to disconnect the battery when working on or disconnecting anything electrical. Make sure you either remove the keys from the vehicle or leave the window open before disconnecting the battery. In the Z4 M the battery is in the trunk. First thing to do is raise the rear deck lid shelf by turning both nobs up. This will give you access to the mobility kit and then the battery cover top bolts:

Then remove the mobility kit and air pump from the top of the battery cover. These are held on by Velcro straps and easily removed by undoing the Velcro.

Pieces removed and set aside in trunk:

Now, remove the three 10mm bolts holding the top part of the battery tray to the car. Two have been removed in the picture:

Next, remove the 3 plastic screw rivets holding the battery cover on. These have a phillips head and 10 mm socket head built into one. These can be tough to remove completely without breaking. The best way I have found to do this is to use a 10mm 1/4" drive socket to loosen the plastic screw until it doesn't want to turn any more or starts to push in from pressure from the socket. Then, unscrew it the rest of the way by putting a towel over your fingers and using your hands - while gently pulling out on the rivet head.

3 plastic rivets location:

Rivet:

Set bolts and rivets aside in trunk pocket:

Now you can remove battery cover by slightly lifting up and pulling out on it.

Removed:

Now, disconnect and set aside the negative battery cable (brown) using a 10 mm socket or wrench:

It will be necessary to remove the plastic BMW radiator cover trim and the electric cooling fan on Z4 M to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt (necessary to rotate engine). The trim piece is held on by 8 plastic rivets (red in photo - phillips head) and 2 metal Torx bolts (green in photo - T 30 Torx). Remove these as noted in photo:

These plastic rivets are exposed to engine heat and dirt and can be extra difficult to remove without breaking. They are phillips head only and similar to the rivets holding the battery tray in the trunk. I have found the best way to remove these is to turn them as far as they will go with a screwdriver (phillips), then place a towel over your hand and try to remove - like the trunk rivets. As a last resort, if one is extra difficult, gently grip the head and turn with pliers while pulling up:

If your pulling up with pliers or your fingers covered with a towel while unscrewing a rivet, it will come out in one piece (plastic rivet head and base).

Remove the T30 metal Torx bolts (2):

After this the plastic cover will come up giving you access to the electric fan. Plastic cover and fasteners removed:

You now have access to remove the electric cooling fan:

First, disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the top of the fan (left and right side):

Side aside the connecting wires. The cooling fan is held on the car by one plastic push rivet (driver's side) and one metal screw (Torx T27 - passenger's side) only. Remove the plastic rivet head (slide fit - no threads) by gently prying it away with one or two flat head screwdrivers. Then, once there is a gap between the rivet head and the base, pull the head/stem out with needle nose pliers utilizing the gap space:

The plastic rivet head/stem will likely come out by itself. After its removal, gently pry out the base with a small flat head screwdriver or pick. Be careful not to drop it:

Now, remove the Torx T 27 screw from attaching the cooling fan to the car. This screw can be delicate and tight to remove. Be careful no to strip the Torx head:

If the Torx head gets harder/tighter to remover once initially broken free, remove the rest of the way by gently by gripping screw head with pliers and rotating loose, as not to strip the Torx head. Now, the electric fan is free to be removed from the vehicle. Carefully lift it up and out. Both the radiator hoses and a thin plastic coolant pipe will be slightly in your way. Be extremely carefully of the plastic coolant pipe, as noted in photo:

Plastic rivet and T 27 Torx fasteners that hold fan to vehicle:

Cooling fan coming out:

Now you will have space to access to he crankshaft 32mm bolt required to turn the engine:

This is the view of the 32mm socket, small extension, and long 1/2" drive ratchet on crankshaft bolt:

After this, remove the plastic breather vent tube from valve cover and intake plenum. This is done by first removing the electrical connector on the solenoid by pushing down on the metal connector retainer while pulling the connector out. Do not remove the metal retainer clip from the connector - pushing down on it will release the connector.

Then, remove the vent tube. Squeeze the end connectors on the tube as directed in the photo below. Gently pull and wiggle the ends of the tube and pull up. This plastic is delicate and can easily break - be careful:

All disconnected:

Early M3s do not have the electrical solenoid on the breather vent hose - so on these you simply can remove the hose and set it aside. I believe all Z4 M has the solenoid, and it's hose is connected to a pipe via rubber tubing with factory clamps. I recommend not messing with these clamps and simply holding it out of the way during the work with a screwdriver (it will stay put):

Despite appearance, the black textured plastic piece you see with the "M" logo in the front is not the valve cover. It's a plastic engine cover hiding a bunch of wiring for the coils, oxygen sensors, etc... This cover is held on by six 10 mm metal nuts. Remove these nuts:

After removing the nuts, remove the plastic cover. It's necessary to remove the oil cap to remove the plastic cover. When the cover is removed, reinstall the oil cap on the aluminum valve cover, to prevent anything from falling in the engine. Reinstall the oil cap on the valve cover until it's time to reinstall the plastic engine cover during reassembly.

Note, on Z4 M, at no point from this point on is necessary to disconnect any electrical connectors other than the connectors to the actual ignition coils themselves. The wires harness' can be moved out of the way for access without disconnecting anything else.

Push in the 2 sets of retaining clips holding the harness, then gently rock the harness loose - but do not completely remove it out of the way:

Now, remove two 8 mm harness connector retaining bolts at the top end intake side of valve cover. Also, gently and careful free the wires (as circled in photo) from their metal guides in valve cover:

 

[Swanicyouth]

Remove harness wires in back of valve cover from all similar guides:

After that, remove rubber grommets that allow harness to pass through engine cover and valve cover:

Now, it is possible to lift wire harness away and set it aside as shown:

All you are left with now is the coil pack harness. It is held on with the same 8 mm bolts holding the other harness' connectors. Remove the bolts:

Once the bolts are removed, unlock each coil pack connector by lifting up on the retainer to unlock the connector:

All coil packs unlocked and all 8 mm harness retainer bolts removed:

The last thing required to remove this harness is to remove the ground strap (lower in photo) which bolts to the side of the engine block (13 mm):

At this point you are able to remove the coil pack harness completely from the valve cover. Place it towards the back of the engine out of the way as shown:

Remove the 6 ignition coils by placing a long extension or bar through the holes on their tops - while gently pulling up and wiggling slightly. Some force is required to remove the coils, they are press fit into the head:

While there is no real reason to do so, I recommend numbering each coil (1-6) so they can be placed back in their original cylinder:

The last thing to do before removing the valve cover is to remove the oil return line. This is a hollow 17 mm banjo bolt with two copper gaskets between it and the the valve cover:

It's very easy to drop the inner copper gasket down into the engine compartment when removing this bolt - unless it sticks to the valve cover. I wouldn't worry too much if it drops - since you are replacing the copper gaskets with new ones during re-assembly.

Once that bolt is removed, you can remove the thirteen 10 mm nuts and two 10 mm studs (15 total) that hold the valve cover to the head. Each nut/stud has a rubber grommet between it and the valve cover. After removing all the nuts/studs you want to remove these grommets from the valve cover with your fingers prior to attempting to remove the cover. The two 10 mm studs (different) are located in the front most portion of the valve cover in the outer locations.

Note the two studs have different (more shallow) grommets than the other 13 nuts. Here you can see the difference:

Each nut/stud assembly has 3 pieces: nut/stud, washer, and grommet:

Remove all 15 nuts/studs and the grommets (fingers). This is what the valve cover looks like when all removed:

Now the valve cover is unfastened. If the valve cover gasket is very old, it may be quite difficult to remove the valve cover from the engine head. The valve cover gaskets tend to get hard / plastic-like with age and almost act like dried glue to hold the valve cover onto the head. First, try rocking the valve cover gently side to side using the oil fill cap neck for leverage. Try to break the seal. If the valve cover can't be removed by this method, it may be necessary to try to insert a metal scraper between the valve cover gasket and valve cover:

Unfortunately, older valve cover gaskets can be quite tenacious at holding the valve cover on. While prying isn't an ideal method, if required, be sure to pry between the gasket and valve cover. While damaging anything is never planned - it's much cheaper to replace a gouged valve cover than a gouged head in the worse case scenario.

Once the valve cover is removed, clean it completely with Brake Kleen and a parts brush. Inspect the mating surfaces for any imperfections or gouges that may cause an oil leak after reassembly. Be aware, there are six spark plug chamber sealing gaskets (rings) between the valve cover and the head. Make sure all of these are retrieved and removed. They may stick to the head or the valve cover.

After that, remove all the spark plugs. Removing the plugs isn't 100% required to adjust the valves, but it's a part of Inspection II and the crankshaft rotates much easier with the plugs removed (no compression).

After removing each plug, stuff towel(s) down the spark plug tubes to ensure nothing can fall into the combustion chamber during the procedure.

Engine at this point:

This engine is quite clean. No sludge or even any dark staining on the aluminum or the valve cover. I attribute this to 5,000 mile oil change intervals using the correct BMW TWS group IV base stock oil. This engine has 49k miles on it.

Now is a good time to check the exhaust hub tabs. For those not familiar, the 3.2 S54 has a somewhat known issue of the tabs breaking on the exhaust camshaft that drives the vanos oil pump hub. One or both of the tabs may break. If both tabs break, the oil pump will not turn - and a check engine light will be activated. If one tab breaks - the pump will still turn, so it may be possible for the driver to be unaware.

It may be required to turn the engine via the crankshaft so you can easily see the two tabs together. This engine turns clockwise. I recommend only turning it in this direction. Here is what it should look like:

If either of the two circled tabs are broken, the exhaust hub will need to be replaced. It's also recommended to replace the camshaft sprocket bolts and possibly rebuilding the vanos unit at the same time with new O-rings.

Now everything is apart, you are ready to check and adjust valve clearance. There are multiple ways (orders) to go about it. The way I do it and recommend is to check and shim the valves as you go. The basic procedure is to rotate the engine clockwise, via your 32mm socket, on the crankshaft so the specific camshaft lobe of the cylinder you are working on is not engaging the valve (lobe facing up).

At this point, the valve is completely closed, and there is a small space between the rocker arm and the cam shaft. This space is valve clearance. This is the space you will be measuring. BMW TIS does not make it clear if you should measure the space between the cam and the rocker or the rocker and the valve shim. It is possible to measure either.

However, it's my opinion it does not matter. Since the rocket arm pivots - the space should be the same dimension. I do believe the common procedure is to measure the space between the cam and the rocker arm. If the space is too big - you will remove the current shim and replace it with a thicker shim. If the space is to small, you will remove the current shim and install a thinner shim in its place.

When one camshaft lobe (intake / exhaust) is in the correct position to be checked - another lobe on the opposite cam shaft (but, not directly opposite side) will also be in the correct position to check. So, I decided to start at intake valve one, move to six - and check the specific exhaust valve that was in the correct position along the way.

Once a valve is found to be out of spec, it is necessary to remove the current shim and measure it. Once the current shim is measured, you can use that dimension to determine the size of the correct new shim you need. I'll try to give an example using easy numbers. Say the valve clearance should be 2. So, you measure the clearance and find its 3 (too big). Then, you remove the shim and find its 9. Since you want to make the clearance 1 unit less (less clearance), you want a 10 shim (bigger) in place of the 9. Make sense?

I have seen numerous spread sheets people have made on various BMW forums that can make this procedure documentable and more logical. I "borrowed" one from somewhere online a while ago (can't recall where) - I did not make this spread sheet. However, I did add the standard spec tolerances to the top of each side. I would like to give credit to the person who made this, I just can't recall where I got it from:

Clearances can be measured in standard or metric units. I choose to just use standard units because I had a standard only micrometer available. This requires converting to metric - as the shims are marked and organized from BMW in metric sizes. It's probably easier to do everything in metric, but if you choose to flip flop back and forth, there are several converters you can use on your smart phone, simply Google "inches to mm". Most feeler gauge sets are marked in both units.

So, here you can see me checking an intake valve that is out of spec. Note the 0.011" feeler gauge fits between the cam and the rocker, but the spec is 0.007" to 0.009". This means the space is too large and I will need a thicker shim to take up the extra space. The feeler gauge should fit - but the next size bigger should not. Start at the next smaller size, and keep inserting the feeler gauges at bigger sizes until one will not fit easily. Don't jamb it in there. There should be a slight drag on the blade.

Now that you know a specific valve will need adjustment, it will be necessary to cover the plastic oil screens in the head in proximity to that valve.

Here is what the screen looks like:

The LAST thing you want to happen is to have a shim fall into the engine through the screen to a point where it can't be retrieved without engine disassembly. The magnetic BMW valve shim tool does hold the shim quite well. The magnet is pretty strong, so once you have hold of it, it's unlikely the shim will drop unless you bang it on something.

I also recommend covering the head up to the point you are working (front to back) with a towel before you start removing a shim. Here is how I protected the engine to avoid disaster:

Now, you must remove the rocker arm retaining ring from the rocker arm shaft, so you can slide the rocker away to remove the shim. This piece is quite simple to remove - you simply grasp it with your hands and pull up. It's press fit around the rocker arm shaft by 2 preloaded semi-circles on the rocker shaft.

Retainer ring removed:

Now the retaining ring is removed, the rocker arm can slide over to gain access to he shim. The rocker will slide easily away, and it's possible to just slide it over enough so it gives you access to the shim, but is still resting on the edge of the valve (not pictured). Slide the rocker arm over with a thin flathead screwdriver from the area near the rocker shaft.

Now you have access to the shim. This is what things will look like:

At this point, get the BMW shim tool to remove the shim utilizing the magnet on the bottom of the tool. Here is a photo of the process (note: photo taken from procedure on a different cylinder here).

 

[Swanicyouth]

It's rather important to not drop or loose the factory shim at this point. The reason is, you will need to measure the old shim to figure out what size new shim to install. I will walk you though the actual process.

So, here I am measuring the factory shim with my micrometer:

As you can see, the shim is 0.0875" (2.22 mm) thick. Since I need a thicker shim here, I have to determine how much thicker I need the new shim to be. I know that the valve is only about 0.003" (0.011" actual - [0.007"-0.009" spec]) out of spec. So, I'm shooting for a shim that is about 0.003" thicker - so I want a shim about 0.0905" (~ 2.30 mm). Here you can see the available shim sizes are listed on the shim kit:

As you can see, there is no available shim that is exactly 2.30 mm thick. The closest you have is 2.28 mm or 2.32 mm. In my opinion, it's best to choose the thinner shim in this case. My reasoning is, it's always better for the valve to be a bit looser in spec than too tight - which could cause the valve to run hot. However, as long as you get it in spec it shouldn't matter.

So, now you retrieve the correct size new shim from the shim kit. The shims are organized in the kit in the order designated on the lid. It's easiest to remove the shims from the kit is using the BMW valve shim magnetic tool. Once you obtain the new shim, it's time to install it with the tool. I recommend putting a tiny drop of engine assembly lube grease on the bottom of the shim to help hold it in place on top of the valve. Note: there is no "top" or "bottom" of the shim - both sides are the same. One side does have the metric size stamped on it from BMW. But, it does not matter if this faces up or down.

Install the new shim as you removed the old. Be careful here not to drop it. It's best to work from the passenger side of the vehicle kneeling down over the passenger side fender so you can view the shim's correct location as you install it. There is a tiny bore that the shim sits in on top of the valve. Once you have it seated with the tool, slowly and gently drag the tool away, while lightly pressing down on the tool/shim - releasing its magnetic hold on the shim.

New shim in place:

Now it's time to reinstall the rocker arm and the retaining shaft by sliding it back to it's original position. The easiest way to install the arm is to lift it with your fingers from the front of the cam shaft like this and then slide it back to its original position. Keep an eye on the shim while doing this to ensure it's not knocked out of the correct position on the valve.

Before reinstalling the retaining ring, recheck the valve clearance. Make sure the new shim is bottomed out on the valve where it sits by gently pushing down on it using a pick or a small flathead screwdriver. The new valve clearance is 0.009" - in spec.

Once you are satisfied the valve is in spec - reinstall the retaining ring. It simply presses back down with your hands back on the rocker arm shaft. Now, just repeat the procedure on each valve out of spec - rotating the engine prior to get the cam lobe facing up on the cylinder(s) you are working on.

After all the valves are checked and the necessary adjustments are made, it's time to remove the towels from the spark plug cylinders and install the new spark plugs. Before installing, place a small amount of anti-seize on the plug threads and a thin layer of di-electric grease on the porcelain insulator portion of the plugs:

Reinstall the spark plugs being careful to not cross thread or strip the threads. The spark plugs should be torqued to about 20 ft lbs. Tighten them semi-tight first, then go around with a torque wrench to torque each one. As the plugs get tighter, you will feel the metal gasket washers on the spark plugs starting to crush. This is normal and almost feels like threads stripping - but it's not the case.

Now, once the plugs are installed, it's time to clean the gasket mating surface on the head. Use Brake Kleen to clean the oil off the surfaces. Pay special attention to clean off all the factory RTV in the designated reinstallation locations. Use a plastic scraper or a wood rod to remove the old gasket remnants. Don't use a screwdriver or anything metal - you don't want to gouge the head.

Factory RTV:

After everything is clean, place your Drei Bond 1209 / RTV on the head at the designated locations as a thin bead. Less is more here. You only need a small bead.

Now, carefully install the new valve cover gasket on the head. The new gasket has six protruding tabs that fit into holes on the head that hold the gasket in place. Make sure these tabs are seated in the corresponding holes in the head.

Closeup of a tab on the old gasket:

Once the gasket is in place, reinstall the valve cover. It's a tight fit, as there is a plastic tube that parallels the fuel injector rail that holds wires for the injectors. This tube prevents the valve cover from just getting put straight down on the head (valve cover is flared) without interference. I recommend tilting the valve cover with the rear end lower and fitting the rear and the side closer to the fuel injectors first. Be sure not to disturb the positioning of the gasket.

When the valve cover is correctly sitting on the the gasket on the head, install the the new grommets and the fasteners (nuts/studs with washers) that retain it. I recommend installing the nuts/studs, washer, and grommet as one single piece. The pressure from the rubber grommet will hold all 3 pieces together as a unit - this will prevent you from dropping one of the three parts.

Keep in mind the very front outer locations of the valve cover is where the 2 studs go, also the grommets are different (thinner) at these locations. While there is a torque spec for these fasteners (7 ft lbs), I don't recommend using a torque wrench here. Simply tighten the bolts in two stages in a criss cross pattern. You will know when they are sufficiently tightened, as you will feel the fasteners bottom out.

Now it's time to reinstall the oil return line back onto the valve cover. As you will recall, there are 2 copper crush washers on this line. I find this the only real difficult part of the job. The difficulty for me is holding the new inner copper washer (closer to valve cover) without dropping it while feeding in the banjo bolt. The clearance is tight between the feed line and the valve cover and the copper gasket is smaller than the round head of the feed line. It's very easy to drop the inner copper washer while you are positioning the banjo bolt with the outer washer back into position. You have to keep all this in place while getting the threads engaged on the banjo bolt into the valve cover.

A sure way to complete this task without dropping the inner copper washer, is to use a long wire tie, fishing string, or a piece of strong thread to aid you. Thread the wire tie through the copper gasket. Then use your one hand to hold the copper gasket in place from above while getting the banjo bolt into position like this:

Get the threads of the banjo bolts started in the threads in the valve cover - while still holding the inner copper washer in place. The copper washer is loose enough on the banjo bolt that you can spin and manipulate the bolt with the wire tie still holding the copper washer from above. The oil feed line is stiff and held in place by a shield. It does not move around well, so the wire tie really helps when you are getting the thread started.

I recommend this procedure, as if you drop the inner washer, it will fall in the shield surrounding the feed line and down into the engine compartment - never to be seen again. The washers are single use and cheap - so you may want to buy a few extra in case you drop one. If you drop one - just leave it. It's external to the engine and there is no real need to attempt to retrieve it. Once you are sure the threads are started sufficiently to hold everything in place, simply cut the wire tie with a pair of cutting pliers and pull it away in 2 pieces. Now torque the banjo bolt to 18 ft lbs.

Reinstall the coils to the cylinders they came out of. They are a press fit. Install a bit of di-electric grease in the coils where they sit on the spark plugs. Make sure the round top part of the coil is correctly sitting on the head and not pinched or folded under so there is a tight seal.

Reinstall the coil wire harness at this point. When reinstalling the connectors to each coil, flip the flip top retainer on the coil top down. Then reinstall the harness 8 mm mounting bolts.

Now, reinstall the other harness you removed out of the way. Install the grommets of the harness back into the valve cover as the originally sat:

Tighten the two 8 mm bolts that retain it:

During the harness reinstallation procedure, install the wires in their original guide retainers on the valve cover (pinch fit).

Reinstall the ground strap onto the head.

Now, check to make sure all wires are installed and routed correctly - not pinched or strained. There are no connectors to reconnect during the valve cover reinstallation process (except the coils) if you follow this procedure. Now, remove the oil cap from the valve cover and reinstall the plastic engine cover and the six chrome nuts that attach it. Reinstall the oil cap prior to installing the nuts. After that, reinstall the vent breather tube into the valve cover and intake (push fit). Don't forget to plug the solenoid on the vent tube to the electrical connector that goes to it.

Re-install the cooling fan and the two fasteners that hold it in place. Don't forget to install the two electrical connectors you disconnected on the cooling fan assembly during the removal process. Get the plastic cooling fan cover, lay it in place, and back out the two plastic Torx bolts that are part of the cover:

Now reinstall the 8 plastic rivets and 2 metal Torx bolts that hold the plastic cover on. The plastic rivets are best reinstalled by starting them a few threads with a screwdriver. Once they are "started" and you tighten them - the threads will usually reach a point where they get too tight to turn with a screwdriver and the phillips head will want to strip. Instead of keep trying to tighten these down and stripping the heads of the plastic rivets, just firmly press down on the rivet head with a towel and the rivets will seat in place. Tighten down the plastic T45 Torx bolts on the cover until they bottom out against the radiator.

Reconnect the negative cable of the battery in the trunk. Reinstall the battery cover and the 3 plastic rivets and three nuts that hold it in place. Treat the plastic rivets here like the front ones - just push them in forcefully when they don't want to screw in anymore easily. Now, reinstall the pump and the sealant from the M mobility kit that sits on top of the battery cover.

Start the vehicle.

Check for oil leaks and a CEL.

Now the job is complete.

Go for a ride and enjoy your car.

 

[GearHead_1]

Truly stellar write up. I mean completely amazing.

 

[Swanicyouth]

Thanks. I spent a lot of time doing it, mainly for Z4 Forums. But, I figured someone may enjoy it here as well.

 

[Accumulator]

Swanicyouth- VERY good posts! Your write-ups are just *so* well done!

I note the frequent use of self-vulcanizing tape, great stuff to have around.

I use pieces of fairly hard rubber between my jack and the vehicle, was luck enough to run across some in various shapes/sizes that work great (some people I know use hocky pucks).

Oh, and note that some/many/?most? penetrating oil-type products can leave stuff behind that can mess with future attepts to detail things. Wurth's Rost-Off is one that's safe in this regard, no silicones, and it cleans off nicely if you decide to paint/etc. later.

Oh, and after reading about how that BMW dealership gouges their customers and how techs apparently often skip things that I'd consider part of "doing the job right", I'm prompted to give props to my Audi dealership's guys (Gene, Dan, and Dale- you guys are great). Zero gouging, and after I do something that I'm certain nobody would ever notice, sure enough when the car's in for service they'll call me up and chat about it. Ditto for Jim and Eric at my Ford dealer.

 

[Accumulator]

Swanicyouth (and anybody else...)- You use anti-sieze on the wheel lug nuts/bolts? If so, how do you adjust the torque specs for "wet vs. dry"?

 

[Swanicyouth]

Swanicyouth (and anybody else...)- You use anti-sieze on the wheel lug nuts/bolts? If so, how do you adjust the torque specs for "wet vs. dry"?

I use it - or I use caliper grease. BMWs use lugs that have the studs built into them. But it's very necessary to lube up the rotor hub to wheel area - as the wheels themselves commonly seize to the hub on the spindle. The wheels can be next to impossible to get off the hubs after a while. Probably my frequent wheel cleaning doesn't help.

But, I just use the regular torque spec. I never had a wheel fall off - so it seems OK.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Accumulator]

Swanicyouth- Yeah, I too use a thin coating between the hub and wheel, having had to get serious with some new-to-me vehicles that hadn't been treated that way.

The issue with wet/dry torque values is that when you use anti-seize/etc. you need to *lower* the torque lest you overtighten things. It's one of theose topics where, uhm.....opinions vary and guys on both sides of the argument think they know it all. I generally lower the setting on the torque wrencha bit, and like you I figure I'm OK as I've never had any problems even though some of those "internet experts" think I'm still going too tight.

 

[Woob]

Nice, BMW's are fun to work on.

 

[Swanicyouth]

My Findings Regarding Pedal Pulsation and Brake "Judder"

So, I've owned multiple BMWs, and after a while - all of them have suffered from some degree of pedal pulsation, braking harshness, and brake judder. Nothing bad - and probably nothing a "normal" car driver would notice. In the past, I haven't worried too much about it I'd just hang new rotors when I replaced the pads and the problem would go away for quite a while. However, the BMW in question has M drilled rotors that cost $500+ a set... It's time for a permanent diagnosis and solution.

Interestingly enough, I've been using non-metallic (first organic / later ceramic) brake pads on all these cars. First thing I always did when purchasing a BMW was remove the dusty stock pads and replace them with low dust pads. Years ago, this mean using "organic" or asbestos type pads - today it means using ceramic pads. These type of pads are noted for being more "rotor friendly" than semi-metallic pads. So, they shouldn't be causing an issue - right?

These cars have always been driven with care. Since my experience tells me these cars are sensitive to pedal pulsation and braking roughness, I have always tried to using the brakes quite gently - "babied" the brakes. Conventional wisdom tells us pedal pulsation is caused by "warped" rotors that have excessive lateral runout. Shimmy of the steering wheel while braking also tends to point to the front rotors - assuming the suspension on the vehicle is tight and the wheels are fairly in balance.

It's commonly believed that rotors become warped from being overheated. The problem is, I've never come close to overheating the rotors on any of my vehicles. There is also another school of thought that says most pedal pulsation is caused not by warped rotors, but by brake pad deposits that have become embedded in the rotors. Obviously - replacing the rotors is a fix (possibly temporary) for either situation.

It's not uncommon for someone to experience this braking issue and take their car in for service. The most common fix is to replace the pads & rotors. Problem is fixed...Or is it? It's also not uncommon for the problem to return. I've seen dealers put 5 and 6 sets of rotors and pads on cars under warranty to fix pedal pulsation. New cars have been bought back by manufacturers in the Lemon Law due to pedal pulsation issues. While pad/rotor replacement fixes the problem temporarily, it seems to return for some drivers in a matter of weeks or months. So, why do some people have an issue with this and some don't on the same car? Why do some people go through multiple sets of new pads and rotors - only to have the problem fixed temporarily? What is the root cause of this?

Three well written articles on is subject are linked below:

http://www.centricparts.com/files/technical guides/CommonCausesofBrakeJudder.pdf

What Causes Brake Pulsation? | Power Stop

Racing pad selection and brake pad deposit - RacingBrake.com

First thing one needs to do is check the front end and balance/trueness of wheels. But, assuming the issue is being caused by something in the front end - this would not explain why many have had temporary fixes by replacing pads and rotors. All things being the same, if the pulsation is caused by something amiss in the front end - replacing/machining rotors and hanging pads should not improve the problem. But, any damaged or worn parts in the front end will need to be replaced first.

After checking the front end, you need to pull the wheels and check the front rotors for excessive lateral runout. To do this, you will need a mounted dial indicator. The procedure is quite simple - you just mount the dial indicator, zero it, and spin the rotor with the needle tip contacting the rotor.

If your rotors are slotted/drilled - you will have to stick to the inner/outer perimeter of the rotor to get an accurate reading. The holes/slots will make the gauge jump excessively when the measuring pin hits them.

As I suspected, my rotors have virtually no lateral runout. The runout reading was < 0.001". I'm not sure if BMW has an official "runout spec"...But, my experience tell me that once rotors reach about 0.004" of lateral runout - pedal pulsation may become a problem (depending on vehicle).

So, what gives? No runout. Good front end. No diagnosable issue... Well, once everything else proved to be good, you have to look at pad deposits on the rotors. You likely won't be able to visibly see them - but you sure can feel something amiss when you hit the brakes. The above articles tell use that pad deposits are responsible for most pedal pulsation - not rotor warpage.

Quite frankly - I'm not (wasn't) a believer. I'm from the old school with semi-metallic pads and warped rotors. But, since the "fix" is free - I decided to give it a shot. What is the fix? The fix involves warming your brakes up to operating temperature and making several (~10) panic stops from 60mph to 5mph (right before ABS kicks in), while letting the brakes cool a little bit in between. After that, you drive normally around trying not to stop to let the brakes cool. So, this is what I set out to do.

Another fix is to sand the rotor surfaces rotor down with garnet paper the. Clean them well with Brake Kleen. Garnet paper is old school "sand paper" that is used for wood working that doesn't have certain metals in it. Regular sand paper is not recommended to attempt to resurface rotors, as the metals in it can actually embed themselves in the rotors, possibly creating hot spots while braking - making braking roughness worse. I was skipping the garnet paper step - but will do it next time I have the calipers off.

After I buttoned it up - I realized it was going to be sort of hard to find an area to do these "panic stops" without getting killed or getting arrested. Basically, the highway is out unless it's 3am and your the only one on it. So, I went out to where there was a bunch of farms and stuff and started beating (gasp!) on my brakes. I probably did 15 panic stops. The pedal started to feel "different" - maybe a bit spongy at first. My wheels were filthy and trashed afterwards. Oddly, there seemed to be a bit of grease slung out onto the wheel. Not sure where it came from - nothing is leaking.

Now, I'm the biggest skeptic when it comes to stuff like this and the first person to call BS. But, it actually worked. The slight pedal pulsation that was so annoying was 98% gone. I mean it was a marked difference. I was quite stunned - as this went against my gut feeling - which is usually right. So, after going through this and my experience with brakes in general; I've come up with a few THEORIES:

1. Performance type cars today that are experiencing pedal pulsation likely have a pad deposit issue.

2. Rotor deposits are more likely from "rotor friendly" ceramic / low dust pads - since these pads don't have the aggressiveness (or abrasive friction) of the older semi-metallic like pads to self-clean the deposits off the rotor(s).

3. Most new cars that have had multiple rotor/pad replacements under warranty due to "warped rotors"; only to have the issue return - likely have pad deposit issues. Obviously, new rotors have no deposits - so the issue is temporarily fixed. However, since the driver's driving habits have not changed - the issue will return in weeks to months.

4. "Babying" brakes (especially on performance cars) is probably a big contributor to this phenomena. Occasional aggressive use of the brakes actually helps to clean the deposits off the rotors. Performance cars braking systems are designed to run hotter, cool better, and take more abuse. If the brakes are "babied" the rotors may never get hot enough for the pads to self clean the deposits off the rotors via abrasive friction.

5. Pad deposit issues are less likely if you keep the more aggressive / factory dust-maker BMW pads. This makes sense, as the more aggressive pads clean the rotors better / easier (more dust) and likely just generally run hotter. This also makes sense as to why is issue has not been caught by engineering. Although, pad deposits can occurs with factory pads which is likely due to driving habits.

6. Ceramic pads tend to work more by adherent friction (leaves layer on rotor) than abrasive friction (like sanding) opposed to semi-metallics which are likely vice-versa at normal operating temperature (hence more dust - but less deposits)

**** One practice I am now avoiding, which I learned from the above articles, is keeping my foot tightly on the brake at stop lights. Apparently, this is a big cause of pad deposits. At the stop light, when the rotor is hot - and brakes are held on with a lot of force - pad deposits can occur from transferring friction material to the rotor unevenly. So, it is recommended to just keep your foot on the brake as light as possible to keep the vehicle from moving. Something I used to do the opposite of.

I'm really curious of others' experiences with pedal pulsation, the fixes, and what you think of my "theories".