Heavy Oxidation , White Isuzu Rodeo

R

rauljimenez

New member
Hello fellows I think this is my first post but I've been reading and reading and reading in here before I even attempt to ask a question . My little pretty truck is a 1993 Isuzu Rodeo white. I am a med school guy who likes to keep his car in top condition, unfortunately on this semester I was able to wash my car and no waxing only twice in about 5 months which I think is a lot.



I managed to finish the school and decided to take care of the paint again, here is what I did:



1) Washed the car 2 times using dawn liquid to remove everything, wax included.

2) Clayed the entire car including windows to remove paint contamination.

3) Used Meguiar 3 step system ( Paint Cleaner, Polishing and Wax ).

4) Used 3M Hand Glaze before the wax to add more gloss.

5) Used synthehic polymer wax( 2 layers after curing it 48 hours appart) NXT before adding a nother layer of pure carnauba wax.



After all this my car is looking awesome except I got a heavy oxidation look that I cant seem to remove from the hood, it looks like the Sun took over it because if you look at the paint closely it looks very oxidized and I can actually see black spots from dust and stuff like very deep inside the paint, is there a way around heavy oxidation :grrr , the rest of the car is looking in tip shape but unfortunately the Sun got the best of the hood.



Any tip is invaluable to me thanks.
 
Hi rauljimenez, :welcome to Autopia.



I have a white '94 Rodeo. The paint is single stage and hard as a rock.



The only product that would remove any oxidation in the process you outline above is the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 1 cleaner and it's really mild. You're going to need something a lot stronger.



Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming you're doing this by hand. If that's the case you should try ScratchX instead of the DC Step 1. If that doesn't make significantly more progress I'd suggest it's a job for a machine.





PC.
 
the other pc said:
Hi rauljimenez, :welcome to Autopia.



I have a white '94 Rodeo. The paint is single stage and hard as a rock.



The only product that would remove any oxidation in the process you outline above is the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 1 cleaner and it's really mild. You're going to need something a lot stronger.



Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm assuming you're doing this by hand. If that's the case you should try ScratchX instead of the DC Step 1. If that doesn't make significantly more progress I'd suggest it's a job for a machine.





PC.
Click to expand...



HEY!! thanks for the welcomeee :hifive: , and you are correct, everything was done by hand and buffed out using microfiber towels. I though the polish in the meguiars 2nd step cleaning had some cutting action, guess not. I'm giving the Scratch X a try , what do you think of a rubbing compound from 3M used by hand , im afraid of using it since the car has 13 years on the same paint, followed by a good polish and then hand glazed and topped again?? :cooleek:
 
Meg's DC Step 2 is what they call a "pure polish", some other companies would call such a product a "glaze" but there's no real consistency in the industry.



If ScratchX isn't strong enough you can go to a stronger product like a compound but with the caveat is that it may fix your immediate problem and leave defects of its own. Then you'll have to use some other product and process to remove those. That's doable of course but it you'll want to have that completely dialed in before you tackle the whole job.



Here's an article on how you use ScratchX: How to remove a defect by hand with ScratchX





PC.
 
the other pc said:
Meg's DC Step 2 is what they call a "pure polish", some other companies would call such a product a "glaze" but there's no real consistency in the industry.



If ScratchX isn't strong enough you can go to a stronger product like a compound but with the caveat is that it may fix your immediate problem and leave defects of its own. Then you'll have to use some other product and process to remove those. That's doable of course but it you'll want to have that completely dialed in before you tackle the whole job.



Here's an article on how you use ScratchX: How to remove a defect by hand with ScratchX





PC.
Click to expand...



Thanks a lot, just went to the store and bought a bottle of ScratchX, I'll let you know how it went. Reading the site you just gave me on how to apply it. I have a question though, since is only the hood panel, do you think is a good idea to alcohol it to remove all the wax and then go with the scratchX; and then reapply the wax?
 
Nah, you don't have to worry about removing old wax when you're using ScratchX. Any product that removes swirls and scratches will remove old wax instantly.



Just to add a bit to the article, it shows using foam applicators, which work well, but if you need extra "bite" try microfiber or cotton terry cloth applicators or towels.



And where Mike says "work the product in with a little passion" he ain't kiddin'. A lot of folks who try ScratchX for the first time use like a wax, wipe on, let dry, wipe off. Then they wonder why it didn't do much. It don't work that way.



To get scratches out you have to remove some paint. You work it real good before wiping it off. Don't let it dry (despite what the tube might say); you're removing defects, not installing wax. Letting it dry doesn't do anything but make it harder to wipe off.



After the ScratchX the paint will be clean and completely exposed so you'll want to put wax on to protect it.





PC.
 
PC, I did the whole panel and I must tell you my whole arm is about to fall off.... lmao. It did helped a lot and I could mask it a bit more with wax but it still looks oxidized. I'm gonna take some pictures and post them in here so you can have a better idea of what i'm talking about :).



ok im taking some tynenols now for my arms peace
 
SS white is the hardest paint out there. Given your situation, I'd use terry towels and Meguiars ColorX for OTC products, but see if you can find a local Autopian with a PC or Rotary (esp a rotary with wool polishing pads and Poorboy's Pro Polish).
 
themightytimmah said:
SS white is the hardest paint out there. Given your situation, I'd use terry towels and Meguiars ColorX for OTC products, but see if you can find a local Autopian with a PC or Rotary (esp a rotary with wool polishing pads and Poorboy's Pro Polish).
Click to expand...



Yes I definitely need to invest in a PC before my arms fall off :cry: . On another subject, what are some great proven products for single stage white paint available? Klasse?
 
Poorboy's Pro Polish is the best chemical cleaner I know of. You might want to mix it 50:50 with Poorboy's SSR2.5 and use it on a cutting pad via PC. White is so hard that it might not even leave any marring behind.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top