Grit under Viper paint?

[blonzz]

I am detailing the paint of a 05 Viper Copperhead that I just purchased. This is my first multi step detail. All I have done in the past with my cars is wash and wax.



I washed the car and tested the surface with a plastic bag. I could feel grit.



I used Pinnicle poly clay w/lubricant on an area and the roughness is still present. I repeated the process and it did not help. The clay stays perfectly clean as well.



Could this be under the clear or paint?



Thanks,

John

 

[imported_themightytimmah]

Possible, but HIGHLY doubtful. The cars get sprayed in "clean rooms", ideally free of dust, dirt, etc. More likely, it is an imperfection in the clear. This could be fixed with wetsanding and a rotary, but I'd suggest living with it, as it is possible to cause some real damage trying to get the clear perfect. These imperfections are an unfortunate side effect of the new "environmentally friendly" paints. The paints dry too fast, so that the liquid paint on the surface lacks a chance to "self-level".

 

[blonzz]

Possible, but HIGHLY doubtful. The cars get sprayed in "clean rooms", ideally free of dust, dirt, etc. More likely, it is an imperfection in the clear. This could be fixed with wetsanding and a rotary, but I'd suggest living with it, as it is possible to cause some real damage trying to get the clear perfect. These imperfections are an unfortunate side effect of the new "environmentally friendly" paints. The paints dry too fast, so that the liquid paint on the surface lacks a chance to "self-level".

Thanks,



It's a shame. It's not just in a small area either. I didn't check the whole cars surface but the deck lid is horrible!



John

 

[MongooseGA]

Thanks,



It's a shame. It's not just in a small area either. I didn't check the whole cars surface but the deck lid is horrible!



John

How does the paint feel to your bare hand? If you can't feel much, and don't see anything, then I'd just leave it alone. It's not like you're going to be holding a plastic baggie on your hand each time you get in and out of the car.

 

[the other pc]

It’s hard to imagine that Daimler/Chrysler would let the paint line for their flagship model stray that badly. I’m betting it’s still something that’s stuck on the surface.



How hard did you work the clay? You don’t need to be bending the sheet metal but it does take more than delicate pressure to remove tenacious crud. Do you have any kind of magnifier you can use to inspect the surface? If you could get a look at whatever it is you’ll be able to see for sure if it’s on or in the paint.



Radio Shack sells this handy little number:

(Catalog #: 63-1133) for only ten bucks. It’s also good for inspecting sanding scratch and compound grit effects.





PC.

 

[blonzz]

It’s hard to imagine that Daimler/Chrysler would let the paint line for their flagship model stray that badly. I’m betting it’s still something that’s stuck on the surface.



How hard did you work the clay? You don’t need to be bending the sheet metal but it does take more than delicate pressure to remove tenacious crud. Do you have any kind of magnifier you can use to inspect the surface? If you could get a look at whatever it is you’ll be able to see for sure if it’s on or in the paint.



Radio Shack sells this handy little number:

(Catalog #: 63-1133) for only ten bucks. It’s also good for inspecting sanding scratch and compound grit effects.





PC.

As I mentioned this is my first experience detailing with clay. I am using the process outlined here.



How-To Clean with Clay



I am using medium pressure as stated in the article. I even tried being firmer on my second attempt.

I used plenty of Pinnacle Clay Lubricant. First I misted the flatend clay than sprayed the area to be worked.



I then worked roughly a 2'x2' area. The Clay never stuck it was slick on the first pass. I worked the area back and forth for about 1 min and checked the Clay which was clean. I wiped off the area with a MF towel and checked the suface with a plastic bag. The grit feeling was still present.



I repeated the process and used the fresh side of the clay. This time I spent a little more time on the area and used more pressure. Buffed and the grit is still there.



All the Clay work was done in a climate controlled 76° garage on cool paint.



The cars paint appears to be in visibly superb condition. I aquired it on 06/11. The car was displayed in an inside showroom. I purchased and took delivery of the car the same day. It never left my sight. I didn't let the dealer wash or wax the car before I took delivery. I can't tell you what was done to the finish before display. It was only on the floor 2 weeks.

I had looked at several Vipers earlier in the day at different dealerships. They all had paint swirll marks and other severe blemishes from customers. The reason I chose the Copperhead was the finish and interior looked almost pristine. No scratches or visible swirls.



I will use your suggestion and examine the surface.



Thanks for the link,



John

 

[the other pc]

Sounds like you're doing it right.



That's pretty weird. I've haven't seen a car fail "the baggy test" and still have good "glide" when claying.



Until you get a handle on what the problem is it may be best to work/experiment on a smaller area, say, 1'x1' or 6"x6".



Hopefully whatever it is is just stuck on top. If it's embedded in the clear sanding and/or refinishing might be the only options.



There are more aggressive clays available but you may have to machine buff afterward.



Have you tried any kind on cleaner on it yet? I always keep a tube of Meguiar's ScratchX handy. In addition to taking care of a variety of defects and contaminants I like to use it as a "gauge", if it doesn't do the job I know I need to go to a machine process.





PC.