Do I have enough pads for correcting one car?
- Thread starter Striker
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I`d call BS Psuedo-tech myself. If that pad`s getting hot enough that having a hole in it makes all the diff, then something`s haywire and I question whether that hole would help any how.
I can`t really help with the specific pad choices as I`m just too out-of-date, but it sounds like you`re on the right track now. You probably won`t go wrong by having more than you think you`ll need.
Heh heh, since you *are* using a rotary, I`d just go with whatever Stokdgs recommends.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Dan.....confusion again
I’m looking at just flat LC orange and white pads and the ones they have claim they’re for a DA.....that I won’t use. Other then to maybe finish with.
Am I fine with these ?
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Striker --
The pads you posted up are made for Random Orbital,DA, etc., machines, and the only thing I see different is that they are "thinner" than the usual size pad for Rotary work, which has always been thicker..
They may have also made the velcro backing stronger on these "thin" DA pads, because of all the heat and movement, it makes them flex so much more, and all that creates more heat, which is always bad if too hot and too long for any pads..
Look at the link of the L/C pads and note the colors.. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/flat-foam-buffing-pads.html
The Yellow color is the most aggressive for compounding, the Orange is less aggressive and is more for polishing.. Of course, you may be able to use a more aggressive compound with the Orange color and hopefully correct the paint just fine.. If not, then you will need the Yellow pad for that correction.. Just a thought..
The pads with the holes in the center is again, for helping release heat from the pad that is used on the DA, Random Orbitals, etc., machines, which of course we all know, make more heat than a similarly set up Rotary machine..
In the really old days of the 70`s, etc., all the pads made back then, they were mostly wool and a wool blend, always had a hole in the center so you could tighten the big screw that held them on the backing plate..
So in conclusion, these DA thinner pads will work, but they are thinner than the normal sized rotary equivalent last I bought some..
It may be possible -today- that the pad makers have pretty much started making ALL pads one thickness, so they can save that last bit of $$..
If that is all you can get, and research does state the rotary pads are no longer thicker today, then you will be fine, just know they are not going to last as long..
Compare those little worn out ccs pads to the L/C Cyan Hydro Techs you have and I bet the those smaller ones are thicker..
I have never used Optimum ONR as a pad conditioner.. It is really a mild cleaner when diluted, so I dont know how that will work.. If you choose to use ONR, I would dilute it with water so it will last longer..
Pad conditioners I have been told (but it`s never been -proven-), are supposed to be a type of quick detailer, but again, it`s what has been said, with no proof or testing results, etc...
All I can tell you that I KNOW for a certainty, is that I have used the C/Guys Pad Conditioner, for many years on a few hundred vehicles paintwork and it has NEVER hurt or damaged, or made the work challenging, etc.. It just works great for that purpose..
Yes, you should wipe down the panel with alcohol after correction, if you do not use a product like Car Pro Eraser, etc., to wipe everything up before you apply your LSP choice, so it will have a better chance to adhere to pure, clean paintwork..
Dan F
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Yeah exactly. I’m trying to keep this simple- and there doesn’t seem to be simple anymore
I’m going with orange and white pads.
I’d like to know which menzerna to start with. I’ll get the owner to send me pics of the paint and post up here.
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Need to know which Menzerna products you have to be able to answer your question..
Which product did you use on your Mustang last year? Perhaps when you see the Mercedes and then compare how the condition is compared to your Mustang, that may help you decide what to try on a Test Spot first..
Dan F
Dan F
Striker --
The pads you posted up are made for Random Orbital,DA, etc., machines, and the only thing I see different is that they are "thinner" than the usual size pad for Rotary work, which has always been thicker..
They may have also made the velcro backing stronger on these "thin" DA pads, because of all the heat and movement, it makes them flex so much more, and all that creates more heat, which is always bad if too hot and too long for any pads..
Look at the link of the L/C pads and note the colors.. https://www.autopia-carcare.com/flat-foam-buffing-pads.html
The Yellow color is the most aggressive for compounding, the Orange is less aggressive and is more for polishing.. Of course, you may be able to use a more aggressive compound with the Orange color and hopefully correct the paint just fine.. If not, then you will need the Yellow pad for that correction.. Just a thought..
The pads with the holes in the center is again, for helping release heat from the pad that is used on the DA, Random Orbitals, etc., machines, which of course we all know, make more heat than a similarly set up Rotary machine..
In the really old days of the 70`s, etc., all the pads made back then, they were mostly wool and a wool blend, always had a hole in the center so you could tighten the big screw that held them on the backing plate..
So in conclusion, these DA thinner pads will work, but they are thinner than the normal sized rotary equivalent last I bought some..
It may be possible -today- that the pad makers have pretty much started making ALL pads one thickness, so they can save that last bit of $$..
If that is all you can get, and research does state the rotary pads are no longer thicker today, then you will be fine, just know they are not going to last as long..
Compare those little worn out ccs pads to the L/C Cyan Hydro Techs you have and I bet the those smaller ones are thicker..
I have never used Optimum ONR as a pad conditioner.. It is really a mild cleaner when diluted, so I dont know how that will work.. If you choose to use ONR, I would dilute it with water so it will last longer..
Pad conditioners I have been told (but it`s never been -proven-), are supposed to be a type of quick detailer, but again, it`s what has been said, with no proof or testing results, etc...
All I can tell you that I KNOW for a certainty, is that I have used the C/Guys Pad Conditioner, for many years on a few hundred vehicles paintwork and it has NEVER hurt or damaged, or made the work challenging, etc.. It just works great for that purpose..
Yes, you should wipe down the panel with alcohol after correction, if you do not use a product like Car Pro Eraser, etc., to wipe everything up before you apply your LSP choice, so it will have a better chance to adhere to pure, clean paintwork..
Dan F
Would you alcohol wipe the panel between different stages of polish or only after you’ve done correcting the panel and the lsp is ready to be applied ?
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Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
My local guy has these. Doesn’t say anything about them being for a da
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You could ask him if they are made for DA`s or not.. Or measure one for you..
My older L/C Hydro Tech pads are 1-1/4" thick, (perfect for Rotary work) the newer L/C Hydro Tech pads are 15/16" of an inch thick, so you can use them with D/A machines easier.. But these thinner pads will still work on a Rotary, they are just thinner.. I dont care for that, but that is the way it seems to be with Lake Country now..
Dan F
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Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
I agree with mi Hermano on this..
And besides, that hole in the center means that spot is NOT working for you on the panel because it is missing the foam..
Dan F
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
2500 = Cut =5 Gloss = 7
3000 = Cut =3 Gloss = 9
3500 = Cut =3 Gloss = 10
3800 = Cut= 2 Gloss = 10
2500 is a Medium Cut Polish.. Not knowing anything about the paint condition, this is your most aggressive, so I think you will have to try this one..
Good Luck !
Dan F