Care and feeding of Jag Wilton Wool Carpets?

cptzippy

New member
Have the front carpets out of my 94 Jag XJS right now. Took them out because the A/C drains stopped up and got a bit of water on them (not too much). Going to take care of a couple of minor surface rust spots in the floorboards. I want the carpets to be as fresh as possible when they go back in. What would you guys recommend to clean them. I do have a li'l green machine but that's about it (besides vacuums).



Does the fact that they are Wilton Wool make a difference in how you care for them?



Also, there is a foam pad under each carpet. It is not closed cell and does soak up some water. They've been out long enough now they should be pretty dry (about 2 weeks). Cleaning them? Making them where they don't soak up water?



TIA,

Tony
 
[Does the fact that they are Wilton Wool make a difference in how you care for them?]







Cleaning of wool carpets is not such a difficult task. It can be done with a little bit of extra care regarding cleaning solutions, heat, avoiding over wetting, etc. Excessive agitation and heat should be avoided, but generally wool fibres may be cleaned with most cleaning methods. Wool should be cleaned with pH neutral detergents and dried quickly.



Wilton carpet is a dense 100% imported lamb’s wool loop pile of the highest grade (Wilton) Wilton patented their first loom in 1741; their carpets are always machine woven and are very hard wearing. This type of premium carpet is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and Rolls Royce, and high-end German automobiles such as Audi, BMW, Daimler AG, Mercedes-Benz, and earlier Porsche models.



These carpets should be maintained and cared for with regular vacuuming and cleaning. A vacuum with a rotating beater bar is beneficial in agitating the carpet, which helps in better removal of soil stuck on the surface. The advantage of a vacuum with a rotating beater bar is that it facilitates removal of embedded soil and thereby prevents matting and packing.



Unlike carpets made of synthetic fibres, soil can be vacuumed from wool carpets very easily. I would recommend vacuuming at least two or three times a week to remove excess fuzz that accumulates on the (new) surface. This fuzzing is perfectly normal and in no way shortens the life of your carpet, it is merely the result of loose fibres created during the weaving process.




Pilling is a condition of the carpet face in which fibres from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming hard masses of fibres and tangled tufts and may be caused by excessive heavy foot traffic or using powder cleaners or deodorizers that "clump" fibres together. If the beater bar of your vacuum slows down noticeably on the rug, raise the height, constant heavy beating with these bars can also cause pilling.



Cleaning



The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive materials. Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried.



Dust - can soil carpets in various ways, it will discolour the fibres making them appear dull and grey, dust brought into the vehicle from outside often contains grit, which will abrade the fibres and cause wear marks, especially in the foot well close to the pedals. Using a vacuum with an agitator attachment regularly will avoid these problems



Spills and stains - whenever a spill occurs it is important to blot as much of the liquid us as possible using a dry clean cloth or tissue. Never rub the pile as this will cause distortion and possibly alter the appearance of the carpet. It is very important to do this immediately after the spill occur, failure to remove the spill quickly could lead to the stain becoming permanent and it may not be able to be removed at a later date, even with professional assistance.



Carpet shampoo - if incorrectly applied, can leave sticky soap residues in the fibres which can result in the soiling reappearing quite rapidly. The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture so it will not over wet the fibres, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive natural wool carpets.



Normal cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a medium stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet cleaner (Scotchgardâ„¢ Fabric & Upholstery Cleaner) and let the foam remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.



Autoglym Interior Shampoo/Cleaner easily cleans through dirt and oils on hard to clean panels like door handles or seats, and effectively removes stains from carpets without any fear of bleaching, leaving soapy residue, or lingering scent behind. The name suggests shampoo, but this product is an actual cleaner.




Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a medium stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam, allow the solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor or high suction vacuum



After surfaces are clean and dried, use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to raise the fibres and apply a stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard or Scotchgardâ„¢ Protector) improves the fibres resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use.

Steam - this method is most effective but use caution by not using too much detergent or water, do not over-wet natural wool As always test the product on a small area to check for residue or a sticky feel. Do not use if a residue exists, or if in doubt about a product. Finally, do not use laundry detergents to clean as they often contain chemical brighteners.




Drying



Always thoroughly dry carpets to avoid mildew and/or mould formation. To speed the drying process, leave the doors or the sunroof open, but make sure you shut off the interior lights by placing something in the door jamb that keeps the buttons retracted, or disconnecting the battery. Use of a carpet extractor is better than heat as this may cause the mats or carpet to become stiff. If an extractor is not available use cotton terry towels to pat dry



Protection



Scotchgardâ„¢ Protector -fluorocarbon chemicals (polymer latex) developed by 3M are mostly inert so by applying it to fabric they provide an effective protective treatment by surrounding each individual fibre with an invisible shield.

It can be safely used for the finest wool or nylon fabrics; Scotchgardâ„¢ Protector improves the fibres resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use
 
I've had plenty of Jags. No, you really don't treat them any different. Be sure to remove any stains in order of difficulty. In otherwords if you have oil/tar/petroleum stains take care of them first. Odd as it sounds, severe stains of this type come out well by using a q-tip and solvent suce as aerosol brake cleaner spray. This is what we were shown in a Coventry factory tour years ago.



Next, get to the organic (dirt/food) stains next. I have had the best success wil Woolite Heavy Traffic.



Also, the Wilton Wool is very dense but has soft fibers so the 'flag' and damage easily. I suggest avoiding a typical carpet brush as they are too hard and damage fibers. Instead get a good quality 2" (or whatever you want) paintbrush and cut off half the bristles to make it stiffer. I then work in the carpet cleaner gently this way. Works way better.



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Resurrecting my thread to ask a question. I had assumed my carpets are in fact Wilton Wool. If they are, I'll be less inclined to try and replace them. Is there a definite way to tell if they are wilton wool?



(one reason I ask is that one side of the fronts has a jag logo in it and the other is flat)
 
captzippy- One test (won't determine if it's *Wilton* wool, but will differentiate between wool and synthetic) is that wool burns whereas synthetic melts. Now, how to *use* that as a test, well...I'll leave that up to you ;)
 
The driver's side (at least) appears to be synthetic. Not sure if it is original or not, I'll have to do some more digging on the other carpets. Used Accumulator's burn test on some loose piles on that particular carpet but it's the only one with those.
 
Ok, so it seems none of the carpet's are. Jag stopped putting wool carpets in in the mid 60's from what I can tell. However, the replacements I've found are wool. Hmm, decisions, decisions.
 
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