mobiledynamics
New member
I believe Dr.G is waiting on the patent to finalize, before he releases the invisible bubble.
Bilt Hamber Auto foam... the best?
- Thread starter Coatings=crack
- Start date
I believe Dr.G is waiting on the patent to finalize, before he releases the invisible bubble.
Accumulator
Well-known member
With all the, uhm...stuff... I read about here, I can`t even tell if you`re being facetious!
There are a company called Ma-fra in Italy. They have a lot of different foams that many likes. One of them I have an interest in as it`s on the acidic ph level. Doing a combo of BH Auto-Foam and PW clean rinsing it off then apply a foam with a slightly acidic product. Could get it closer to a totaly touchless wash. And to get good results from them I think that the LSP is on highest performance and that you do them weekly at least. IMO and IME you need to be haveing a good PW with a higher than 2.0gpm and the higher you have the better and faster your results gets. The PW is what does very much of the cleaning for me when doing a touchless wash. Chemicals that you use aid your cleaning ability and can handle some of dirt that you would need to be washing off with the aggitations with the wash media. And that`s also the kind of dirt you have on your vehical that`s if you are successfull or not. Some dirt just don`t get off with touchless washing.
A touchless wash at home from after haveing the equipment out to the blowdrying is finished. For me in the summer months which I usually does these takes about 20-30 minutes max. That`s with the paint and wheels and wheel wells cleaned and dried. A fully wash would take around 40-50 minutes with touch wash paint and the wheels and wheel wells. I have done just a prewash foam and then take a drive with the car to dry LOL 10-20 minutes depending on the how dirty the car is. When I come back from the drying drive I can be blowdry a little water droplets here and there. DI water would be a time saver for touchless washes. Maybe I can take pictures of a touchless wash at a coin-op wash bay as I`ve seen they have DI water to do the last rinse with. Then I will just be useing pump pressure spray bottle with BH Surfex HD for pretreatment. Take the time it takes to do this and see the before and after pictures as close as you want to see if it`s certain places where you would be interesting to see how it looks.
Think it`s 3 weeks ago I washed the Kia cee`d SW and applyied PA High Gloss as topper on a mix of PA Master Sealant on the horizontall panels and Gyeon Wet Coat on the vertical panels. From the back of the front wheels and around and from the bottom and up to the door handles. The dirt build up has clogged the water beading and is flat. And the rest looks really great for being so dirty. The self cleaning ability is about as good as it gets here as how the roads are where I live and drive on. Maybe it`s needed to be useing a Cold Degreaser product on the clogged parts to revive the performance from the LSP.
A touchless wash at home from after haveing the equipment out to the blowdrying is finished. For me in the summer months which I usually does these takes about 20-30 minutes max. That`s with the paint and wheels and wheel wells cleaned and dried. A fully wash would take around 40-50 minutes with touch wash paint and the wheels and wheel wells. I have done just a prewash foam and then take a drive with the car to dry LOL 10-20 minutes depending on the how dirty the car is. When I come back from the drying drive I can be blowdry a little water droplets here and there. DI water would be a time saver for touchless washes. Maybe I can take pictures of a touchless wash at a coin-op wash bay as I`ve seen they have DI water to do the last rinse with. Then I will just be useing pump pressure spray bottle with BH Surfex HD for pretreatment. Take the time it takes to do this and see the before and after pictures as close as you want to see if it`s certain places where you would be interesting to see how it looks.
Think it`s 3 weeks ago I washed the Kia cee`d SW and applyied PA High Gloss as topper on a mix of PA Master Sealant on the horizontall panels and Gyeon Wet Coat on the vertical panels. From the back of the front wheels and around and from the bottom and up to the door handles. The dirt build up has clogged the water beading and is flat. And the rest looks really great for being so dirty. The self cleaning ability is about as good as it gets here as how the roads are where I live and drive on. Maybe it`s needed to be useing a Cold Degreaser product on the clogged parts to revive the performance from the LSP.
Damn
I read this thread, like I write this myself. I live in Estonia and everything is same like Your Sweden roads. I test LOT of products and there are some products which help you. Most important is the LSP. Find away use maxprotect unc-r elite(coating which dont have problems wateretching and this product have good chemical protection) Then you have neighbours-Finland guys.They made brand POLAR. You find their assortment products like: asphalt remover (ph is 7), HP car shampoo. They are good prewash combo in nordic states. Firstly IF you car is mucky, dont prewash with water, just spray asphalt remover ,let IT sit 3-4minutes (this product dont dry like alkohol base asphaltremover), then put POLAR hp carshampoo to foam gun and spritz over the car. Wait some minutes and voilaa, you car is already 90% clean -foam takes this muck of. Rinse and you are ready to dry or wash with hand with POLAR shampoo or if you want 2in1, then the best is sonax shampoo&seal.I use right now kochchemie magic through foam gun. Also if you dont have maxprotect,then use cancoat. Polar asphalt remover dont kill him and after asphalt remover,you get instantly strong beading.
I read this thread, like I write this myself. I live in Estonia and everything is same like Your Sweden roads. I test LOT of products and there are some products which help you. Most important is the LSP. Find away use maxprotect unc-r elite(coating which dont have problems wateretching and this product have good chemical protection) Then you have neighbours-Finland guys.They made brand POLAR. You find their assortment products like: asphalt remover (ph is 7), HP car shampoo. They are good prewash combo in nordic states. Firstly IF you car is mucky, dont prewash with water, just spray asphalt remover ,let IT sit 3-4minutes (this product dont dry like alkohol base asphaltremover), then put POLAR hp carshampoo to foam gun and spritz over the car. Wait some minutes and voilaa, you car is already 90% clean -foam takes this muck of. Rinse and you are ready to dry or wash with hand with POLAR shampoo or if you want 2in1, then the best is sonax shampoo&seal.I use right now kochchemie magic through foam gun. Also if you dont have maxprotect,then use cancoat. Polar asphalt remover dont kill him and after asphalt remover,you get instantly strong beading.Forget to write that I bought in Estonia HP carshampoo ~ 8 eur + vat 5litres. Solution is 1-10 or 1-20. Better cleaning power than BH and dont makes your lsp harm. Good product also in summer,if IT dry,then after rinse this product dont left Any marks on the paint. Asphalt remover Ibought 25 litres 65 eur+vat. I get this quantity over winter -2 cars.I wash my cars once a week!
Coatings=crack
Active member
Tried Auto-Foam in the Ik 12 pro today with medium tip. Im going to try the dry next. Didnt take picks but wasnt much to see. Isnt in the PF22 either.
1.5 gallons water to 8oz auto foam. Nice to see dirt rolling off car with this product. Car hadnt been touch in three weeks and was DIRTY. This definitely more economical way to use and im diggin the AF so far. Great product just wish i could fet it here cheaper. Will order 10L next time.
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1.5 gallons water to 8oz auto foam. Nice to see dirt rolling off car with this product. Car hadnt been touch in three weeks and was DIRTY. This definitely more economical way to use and im diggin the AF so far. Great product just wish i could fet it here cheaper. Will order 10L next time.
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Have not access to Polar products here in Sweden.
Have you used Bilt Hamber Auto-Foam?
Yeay during the winter months it`s always needed to be useing a tar remover or cold degreaser which we call it here in Sweden. Have bought Sonax Intensive Degreaser which is a combined tar remover and iron remover like Carpro TRIX is. And usually I apply the tar remover first on dry paint. But I have 2 tar removers that also works when the paint is wet. It`s an emulssion of petroleum based degreaser and water and gets like a gel when it gets on the wet paint. But tar removers works best on dry paint. I use a prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it first sometimes. Then I use the leafblower to dry the side panels and the back of the car and apply the tar remover.
Nice to hear that it works great for you coatings=crack. I hope tomorrow gets a good weather conditions for a wash on the Ford Focus I maintain. Plan on use a 50/50 with BH A-F and BH Surfex HD in the foamcannon as a prewash. Surfex HD has a stronger punch on the road film. Thinking on use a car soap in the foamcannon when washing. Which I have not tested yet for some strange reason LOL. But have so much car soap now that I can use some up. Maybe it gets the Sonax Extreme Rich Foam Schampoo with either barrier scent or the strange Red Bull scented one LOL I have both. Is also interested to try out the Angelwax Superior Schampoo I`ve just got. Will see what happens.
Hey!
I use Bilt Hamber products over 6 years, then I find Polar products (friend suggest). This week I use Polar hand shampoo and this products amaze me alot. There no info, that this product contain some wax or similar, but they write, that this shampoo makes car shiny - and this is true. how shiny car can be through handwash shapmoo - this products is bomb. Not the slickest product and dont foam also well, but cleans well and makes things really shiny. Better shine, than my Pinnacle Souveran... Too easy.
Yes, you can -must use Petrol base tar remover only dry car. Then it`s work really well. If you put this over wet car, then tar remover going milky. If you car almost everytime wet before wash, then I suggest to use Koch Chemie Teerwächser petrol base tar remover. This products works also really well with wet car. This product dont have wet car problems, and works almost same, like Polar Tar remover. I use polar tar remover, because it cheaper and low 7 PH. If you use tar remover only, then I get better results after rinse. I tested this last weekend. IF you use foam straight after tarremover and you wait too long, then foam wet the tar remover and on white car you see, that there are some darker stripe. It comes of well with tar remover and microfiber cloth or works well old handwash microfiber schwam. I use also Carpro reset shampoo (one of the best), bilt hamber shampoo, gyeon pure and also angelwax shampoo (sommertime, because if shampoo dries, then after rinse it come off easier, than another one). I want to try near future also NERTA prewash products (Belgian company) .
NB! Yes, BILT HAMBER products are good. I like them alot. I have almost every BH products, also rust removers and rust protectors. I cover bh rustprotction with my project cars. I test also turtle wax seal and shine, because they make real hype through chemical test and in videoas show, that It hold well, but in real world and chemical what we use here, wont hold well. But in sommer, its good products, because it let black car good sparkling clear shine. Forensic made some good compersion and gloss is not bad - one of the best, but Polar hand shampoo shines better. 1Liter shampoo cost me 1,50 EUR and you must use 50ml 10 litres water.
I use Bilt Hamber products over 6 years, then I find Polar products (friend suggest). This week I use Polar hand shampoo and this products amaze me alot. There no info, that this product contain some wax or similar, but they write, that this shampoo makes car shiny - and this is true. how shiny car can be through handwash shapmoo - this products is bomb. Not the slickest product and dont foam also well, but cleans well and makes things really shiny. Better shine, than my Pinnacle Souveran... Too easy.
Yes, you can -must use Petrol base tar remover only dry car. Then it`s work really well. If you put this over wet car, then tar remover going milky. If you car almost everytime wet before wash, then I suggest to use Koch Chemie Teerwächser petrol base tar remover. This products works also really well with wet car. This product dont have wet car problems, and works almost same, like Polar Tar remover. I use polar tar remover, because it cheaper and low 7 PH. If you use tar remover only, then I get better results after rinse. I tested this last weekend. IF you use foam straight after tarremover and you wait too long, then foam wet the tar remover and on white car you see, that there are some darker stripe. It comes of well with tar remover and microfiber cloth or works well old handwash microfiber schwam. I use also Carpro reset shampoo (one of the best), bilt hamber shampoo, gyeon pure and also angelwax shampoo (sommertime, because if shampoo dries, then after rinse it come off easier, than another one). I want to try near future also NERTA prewash products (Belgian company) .
NB! Yes, BILT HAMBER products are good. I like them alot. I have almost every BH products, also rust removers and rust protectors. I cover bh rustprotction with my project cars. I test also turtle wax seal and shine, because they make real hype through chemical test and in videoas show, that It hold well, but in real world and chemical what we use here, wont hold well. But in sommer, its good products, because it let black car good sparkling clear shine. Forensic made some good compersion and gloss is not bad - one of the best, but Polar hand shampoo shines better. 1Liter shampoo cost me 1,50 EUR and you must use 50ml 10 litres water.
Yeah Nerta is getting hyped a lot here now in Sweden. Many claims that it`s a touchless wash at home. But not so much from believeble sources. Will see if I test it out sometime. Will keep a look at if get Polar available here too. Must be some glossenhancers in the Polar hand schampoo. Nothing wrong with that as long as they don`t interfear with the water behavior or the self cleaning ability from it. Have a domestic brands prewash foam which have glossenhancers in it. But don`t know if it`s those or that it`s since it`s ph12 that does something on the LSPs I use.
Yeah those that are only petroleum based tar removers don`t work on a wet surface and gets milky like if you apply it on wet paint. And solvents and the petroleum based tar removers is ph neutral. But that`s not to say that they are wax or sealant safe. Some sealants and most ceramic coatings stands up to petroleum based tar removers really well. And they more bringing back the water behavior on a road salt and road film covered paint. You have some tar removers that`s citrus based with petroleum emulssions that can be very harsh as the Citrol 266 that`savailable in US. And Carpro TarX is also this and works great on ceramic coatings and some sealants just like the pure petroleum based ones. There are a lot of options out there.
William_Wallace
New member
Nice home slice I always wanted to try there stuff what’s the one they have that is like a wash that is water based and has anti corrosive stuff for metal. I have very paranoid so far this year get road grime off under carriage at car washes I probably look silly spray so much under the car in the wash bays. Also been spraying door jams with WD40 and door drain holes
mobiledynamics
New member
C=C,
How do you like/love your IK ?
I bought the IK Foam 9 I think......just to see what the futz was all about.
Not to knock IK, but it was like almost semi-prosumer grade sprayer IMO if not of lower grade than some of the commercial sprayers....
What make it happen is the business end, which most of my sprayers have various T-Jet heads
How do you like/love your IK ?
I bought the IK Foam 9 I think......just to see what the futz was all about.
Not to knock IK, but it was like almost semi-prosumer grade sprayer IMO if not of lower grade than some of the commercial sprayers....
What make it happen is the business end, which most of my sprayers have various T-Jet heads
Coatings=crack
Active member
It was good. Pumped up 3 times to get around car and then some. Like it better than most i compared as it seemed to put more volume out.
I like the bilt hamber but using in a foam cannaon was like 8ozs a wash. I now use 8oz in the Ik and can do car 2-3 times per 8oz
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Did you try the green (dry) tip? Just received my IK12 pro and going to try it out with BH AF tomorrow.
Coatings=crack
Active member
I did not. After a few uses i feel like the foamy but runny consistency works great with AF. Does a great job of breaking down the crud and i like actually seeing the dirt run off.
The mudium tip still lays good foam. Just not shaving cream thick
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Coatings=crack
Active member
So got using BHAF down I think and this stuff get’s it clean. Didn’t notice as well on black but this powers away the grime. I use out of an IK foam 12 at 4% PIR.
This just a foam…. 5+ min dwell and power wash off.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Definitely still needed a bucket wash after but the amount of grime and road film removed was night and day.
And before anyone thinks it was PW i tried on a panel without BHAF and didn’t touch it.
There is worry that it will harm LSP but i read Bilt Hamber is all about removing debris as most swirls happen in wash process.
Removing the amount of grime you see here means wash media isn’t picking it up and thus less dirt your wiping off paint.
“Would you rather replace your LSP which is easy or replace your paint”
Forensic detailing.
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This just a foam…. 5+ min dwell and power wash off.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Definitely still needed a bucket wash after but the amount of grime and road film removed was night and day.
And before anyone thinks it was PW i tried on a panel without BHAF and didn’t touch it.
There is worry that it will harm LSP but i read Bilt Hamber is all about removing debris as most swirls happen in wash process.
Removing the amount of grime you see here means wash media isn’t picking it up and thus less dirt your wiping off paint.
“Would you rather replace your LSP which is easy or replace your paint”
Forensic detailing.
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Bill D
Hooked For Life
I just foam with my foam gun and then wash with it using Accumulator`s wash method. Sane result.
Is this true or some "Fake News"? The above quoted post is ALMOST two years old (23Dec19).
Dr. G (Dr. David Ghodoussi of Optimum Polymer Technologies) has developed and invented a lot of innovative detailing chemical products over the years.
I would like to know more about this "invisible bubble" and what the hub-bub and reason behind this innovation is all about.
SWETM:
I know you have not posted in a while, but this thread you started of your review and photos washing with Bilt-Hamber Auto-Foam are outstanding! Also thanks for keeping the Non-European Autopians informed of car-care and detailing product developments from Europe. While some of those products are simply unavailable due to US government import laws because of the chemicals they are made from or are too costly to import, they are interesting to hear about and see what other (European) Autopians have to use in their detailing exploits.
Thanks to the other Autopians who have and used B-H AF and responded in previous posts in this thread topic with their thoughts and opinions.
Unfortunately, the Bilt-Hamber line is another of those manufacturers that the Autopia Store or PBMG cannot carry due to the limited distributorship my B-H in the USA.
Coatings=crack
Active member
I use probably a similar method from you, accumulator and Ammo NYC. I get your years of results but car being that dirty needs a pre wash for me.
A pressure washer wouldn’t remove that grime so using your method the mechanical agitation would have to remove it. Just figure the more i remove before something touches the paint, the better.
Plus i got alot of pre wash to use up.
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