I managed a Recon shop for a Dodge Chrysler Jeep Nissan Dealership for 5 years. All of the guys that worked for me had at least 8 years experience as detailers at the same location. The last one I hired had 20 years at another location. I no longer am in the biz. Anyway, on dark cars we would take the least aggressive route possible because we did not know the history of the car's paint, how much mils is still left in the clear. And by the way, the term "buffing the paint" is a bit misleading. you are buffing the clear coat on modern paint. If the swirls and imperfections were not so pronounced that it was a borderline call of compound over polish, we would always polish and then glaze unless the owner specified at the time of dropping the car off that compound is what he wanted, and we would demonstrate the difference and adjust price for time involved.
To not take up bandwidth, my top, most meticulous former employee will be doing the polish part of the job. As far as product goes we will make the determination of what will work best when he evaluates the paint. I don't even have the car yet, but I did have the location where the car is located (their body shop) do a test area on the hood with 3M Perfect it! at the final phase of my evaluation as to whether I was going to buy the car. It's a long story of how I got to that point.
My experience with Turtle colorwax was red, that it did a great job of filling rock craters on the front air dam. Not chips, sort of small impressions that were made by rocks. If I used a product with any other color than red the spot would be pronounced by the white residue left in the chip. That is why I asked about black.
