3m's glaze/polish abrasiveness

C

chip douglas

New member
Hi all, what is the difference between : SMR(39009), machine glaze(05937) ?

In terms of description there doesnt seem to be a lot of difference, yet in real lfe there might be. I's like to get feedbacks from some who know.

Then if i look at the msds for 3m's smr(39009) and their foam polishing pad glaze (05996) then again, what is the difference ? I find compounds abrasiveness comparison to be real misleading and tricky.

description for item 05996 and 39009 is the same........is it that they give their products a different name cause of the size of the bottle ? It can't be.

Thanks a lot in advance........any help will sure be appreciated a lot.

Best to all
Keep up the good work !
 
In the 3M world any product with a "0" as the first number is their professional line packaging and produts that start with "3" are consumer packaged products for places like Pep Boys, Autozone, Wally World, etc. Sometimes though the products are exactly the same. Case in point, 3M pn 05941 is their PI--III Finishing Glaze and 39013 is their PI-III Show Car FInishing Glaze. Exactly the same product, different package usually in different size (quart vs. 16 oz). The key is the first description being PI-III on both bottles.

The two products you mentioned are somewhat different. The first (39009) is their older, PI consumer packaged SMR that comes in versions for light or dark colored cars. The only reason why it is comsumer packaged is because it is in a 16 oz. container as opposed to a quart or gallon. Some people love it, some hate it. I personally don't care for it. I'd say it is mildly abrasive and it does contain fillers and tends to leave behind a fair anoutn of petroleum distallates. At least that was my experience with the product.

The next one, 05937 is their PI-III Machine Glaze that is formulated with newer abrasives than the older PI or PI-II line, contains no fillers and seems very low in petroleum distillates. It buffs off very easily and fast. The PI-III line is specifically made to compliment each other. For instance, if you use the PI-III Rubbing Compound and you follow it up with the older PI SMR you may not be able to correct compound induced marring that was introduced. At the very least it would take more effort and time to correct the problem with the older SMR than with the new PI-III Machine Glaze. The PI-III Machine Glaze is specifically made to correct any marring induced by the PI-III Compound. Also, the PI-III Compound is supposed to leave behind a better finish than the PI-II Compound even though it has a tad more bite to it. As you've probably guessed the newer PI-III Machine Glaze is a tad more aggressive than the oder 39009 PI-SMR but I can tell you from use the PI-III leaves behind a wonderful gloss ready for final finish sealing.

As for the Foam Pad Glaze 05996 and the PI-SMR 39009 yes, they the same exact product just packaged differently for consumer and body shop markets.

Hope this helped.

Natty
 
Natty,

Holy Cow! What did you do.................. get a part time job working in the 3M labs? :D

Great info!
 
OK..Let me clear it up for myself please ;)

PI-III Rubbing Compound pn(?)
before we use..
PI-III Machine Glaze pn 5937? right?
Then...
PI-III Finishing Glaze pn 5941

Is that right?
So these products have replaced the SMR's 5995-6 and the basic Rubbing Compound 5____?
Abnd of course the PI-II line..
Is that it?
If so..I think it makes pretty good sense...
 
Tarios said:
OK..Let me clear it up for myself please ;)

PI-III Rubbing Compound pn(?)
before we use..
PI-III Machine Glaze pn 5937? right?
Then...
PI-III Finishing Glaze pn 5941

Is that right?
So these products have replaced the SMR's 5995-6 and the basic Rubbing Compound 5____?
Abnd of course the PI-II line..
Is that it?
If so..I think it makes pretty good sense...
Click to expand...

You got it. Although I think you'll find that the PI-III Finishing Glaze is not needed. The PI-III Machine Glaze works so well you can easily go to the final finish sealant. I think the Finishing Glaze is primarily meant for use on freshly painted vehicles as a body shop safe, new paint safe, protective sealant.

Boss.....this is the kind of stuff I read up on when I up at 2:00 am :) .

Natty
 
Natty.

I must be confused or be doing something horribly wrong. I was using the 3m PI III maching glaze this weekend, and it did an allright job as a swirl remover with the pc on speed six using a polishing pad. I found it, however, hard to remove though, even after not letting it sit too terribly long and it was definately not ready for a finaly seal. I went over the car with 3m hand glaze after that by hand and then it was ready. Is this a rotory only product or do i need some trick that i'm totlay missing out on?
 
Koop said:
Natty.

I must be confused or be doing something horribly wrong. I was using the 3m PI III maching glaze this weekend, and it did an allright job as a swirl remover with the pc on speed six using a polishing pad. I found it, however, hard to remove though, even after not letting it sit too terribly long and it was definately not ready for a finaly seal. I went over the car with 3m hand glaze after that by hand and then it was ready. Is this a rotory only product or do i need some trick that i'm totlay missing out on?
Click to expand...

My apologies...I should have stated my experience using PI-III Machine Glaze is with the rotary. When I spoke with a 3M automotive rep he was pretty adament about it not being designed for use with a D.A. Still, I recall reading a post, I think from Bretfraz, over at Autopia and he was able to achieve very good results with the PC. It took longer to work the product fully....considerably longer. My guess would be you stopped working the product before it was ready.

My use with it so far has all been with rotary. I've worked the product until its practically gone but also found whatever little might be left that I didn't work in (maybe near a mirror or door handle or edge) could be difficult to buff off. I found it easily removed with a quick spritz of QD (I was using Mother's Showtime) and a wipe of the mf cloth. After the first couple panels I did the QD automatically accompanies the buffer and the PI-III for those spots.

Regarding finish, there was absolutely no need for any additional polish/glaze on the vehicles I did. Mind you, they weren't in very bad shape to begin with. One was on Red, one was on green metallic. I didn't see any haze, swirls or marks...just a nice deep gloss. Would the Finishing Glaze have added to the look...probably. But given the time to result ratio I doubt it would have been worth it in my case.

Natty
 
Thx for the clarification natty. I'll give it another go soon with a rotory. What strength pad would you recomend? Also how would you rate the machine glaze again poorboys ssr1/2? I'd love to get some and try it but it's not up on the on-line store yet.
 
Koop said:
Thx for the clarification natty. I'll give it another go soon with a rotory. What strength pad would you recomend? Also how would you rate the machine glaze again poorboys ssr1/2? I'd love to get some and try it but it's not up on the on-line store yet.
Click to expand...

Very different animals the PI-III and SSR1-2. Abrasive wise I'd say PI-III MG would inbetween the SSR2 and 1. Sort of like an SSR1.5? Major difference would be the SSR1-2 work as well by hand, PC or rotary which cannot be said about the PI-III. Again, the 3M rep made it very clear to me that the PI-III MG be used by rotary at about 1800 rpm. Having the option of choosing the application method/tool is very nice.

I've used the green "light cut" foam edge pad with the PI-III MG and it worked very well for me.

Natty
 
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