Tried to damage a car today with rotary

[AMDin93103]

dude . . . it was cold, @ 1700 rpm and slow passes, it was cold . . . barely had any warmth to it at all and I was working in the sun. Now, when I used the rotary on the mini and burned the paint (rotary disaster...almost thread) the paint was scorching . . . but taht was not oem paint. . . .

Just trying to catch up here. . .



What pad and product combination at what speed were you using in both instances?



"Being in the sun" means nothing without an idea of how much it was causing the panel to heat up; you don't have a "Location" listed under your username. A panel can easily heat up to close to 200º if the ambient temperature is in the mid 90's but may only get to 120º if ambient is 55º with an ocean breeze.



"Slow passes" or any passes are a very relative thing as well.



My suggestion (at the risk of sounding too forward) is to go to a junkyard, pick two decent panels off two completely differing vehicles, i.e. 91 BMW and a 95 Toyota. Massage each, do what you can to remove defects. Come close to edges. Burn the he// out of them. This should allow you to understand through experience just what it takes to cause damage to a vehicle. My local P&P charged me $100 for two hoods. . . about what my Paint Touch-Up guys minimum service call costs.

 

[imported_Bence]

DSVWGLI,



With a DA I had no problems whatsoever. But using the rotary, the softer finishes can cause problems - aka you can cause problems on the softer finishes. An older SS paint can be extremely thin on the edges. Heat + abrasion = some form of disaster. On a little radius, you can build heat very quickly on little punctual areas, even when the pad is working flat on the surrounding area.



Yes, slow down when approaching an edge. Good advice. And you can still finish the edges with a DA, even on speed 6.