imported_Goose
New member
I agree. I was going to ask what kind of car is he talking about. I'm assuming is one of his Volvo's.
Never done a Volvo myself, but it may have a ceramic clear coat similar to Mercedes Benz...
Tips For Using M105, First Timer
- Thread starter bigbobv
- Start date
I agree. I was going to ask what kind of car is he talking about. I'm assuming is one of his Volvo's.
Never done a Volvo myself, but it may have a ceramic clear coat similar to Mercedes Benz...
Yeah, sorry about that, it is on my Sonic Blue S60 R. I've always thought the clear was soft, but mainly because bird crap will etch it, but maybe that's not a true indication.
Either that or maybe these little scratches need something a little more than I'm willing to dive into.
I'll experiment with it in different areas and see what happens. I guess after using the 205 and having such good luck with it, I thought the 105 would be just as easy to use and just a step more aggressive than the 205. I'll get it figured out, just wanted to see if there was anything glaring that I was missing or something you guys were doing that I hadn't caught on to.
Thanks again!
Perfect, thank you very much.
Search is a great thing, now I just need to remember to use it!
No problem at all. I'm not one of those "use the search" types.
imported_Luster
New member
And thank goodness for that!!!! Enough of those !@#$%^&*'s over at Corvette Forum!!!!!:banghead::cursing::doh:
One of the reasons I like it here!:biggrin:
Ditto that on the R forum as well!
This place has always been quite different from other car forums I browse, which is a good thing.
T
TOGWT
Guest
(M105) The important points
? Proper priming of the pad (with the product being used)
? Consistent pressure
? Clean or change pads often
[A word of caution - on fresh paint (or paint containing flex agent), there is enough applied force with this method that the paint could 'twist?. Paint twisting occurs when the heat and friction created by the machine, pad, buffing liquid, and applied pressure combine to alter the bond between the paint, primer, or substrate it is attached to] - Kevin Brown
1. The product used is a non-diminishing, heavy cut compound, applied with a 6 ? inch LC CCS Orange Light Cutting or Yellow Cutting flat foam pads with a semi-rigid Velcro? backing plate (to ensure maximum abrasive used over minimum area) and ensure that pad is clean by removing oxidised paint and / or polish debris regularly or replace pad with a fresh one
2. M105 has a very fast working time (10-15 seconds)
3. Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures consistent surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish (taking care not to allow the oils / lubricant to dry out).
4. Prime the pad by semi-saturating (80%) the foam and then allow the liquid time to permeate the pore structure of the foam, and then ensure to spread the liquid abrasive uniformly. Keeping the pad flat while applying a constant / consistent pressure; thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact, when the initial polish has been expended replace with 5-6 small sized dots. Keep the pad flat (like you would with a sanding block) while applying constant pressure, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding).Do not allow the pad to ?load-up?
5. Re-wetting (Mequiar?s Final Touch, diluted 1:1 distilled water) the abrasive residue will re-activate the product and provide extended work time. Do not use too much as it will cause the pad / polish to aquaplane; negating the abrasives ability
6. Pad grit number, amount of pressure applied and time will all affect the amount of abrasion achieved. If the initial process doesn?t provide the desired finish, increase the aggressiveness of the process; i.e. use a longer working time, increased pressure, increases the cut of the polishing pad.
7. A normal polishing process will remove approximately 0. 1 Mil (3? (Microns)) A properly primed cutting pad will eliminate most surface scratches and M205 will polish (burnish) the finish
8. Alternative method ? My preference for removing sanding marks or serious paint defects with M105 is in combination with a rotary buffer and a LC Purple foam / wool cutting pad
9. Alternative polish - 3M Perfect-It? Rubbing Compound (6085)
10. M105 tends to leave scratches that are similar to scratches from finishing paper, i.e. uniform size and depth. Use M205 Ultra Finishing Polish to remove them; prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, then using a non-abrasive, soft foam (100 PPI) pad at 900-1000RPM and then increase to 1200-1500RPM and then with a minimum of pressure make few passes at 1000 / 900RPM.
11. [When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You cannot refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to erode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.] Todd Helme TH0001
An extract from ?Polishing Paint (Surface Correction / Renovation) ?, one of a series of 118 unbiased ?The Science of Detailing? technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.
? Proper priming of the pad (with the product being used)
? Consistent pressure
? Clean or change pads often
[A word of caution - on fresh paint (or paint containing flex agent), there is enough applied force with this method that the paint could 'twist?. Paint twisting occurs when the heat and friction created by the machine, pad, buffing liquid, and applied pressure combine to alter the bond between the paint, primer, or substrate it is attached to] - Kevin Brown
1. The product used is a non-diminishing, heavy cut compound, applied with a 6 ? inch LC CCS Orange Light Cutting or Yellow Cutting flat foam pads with a semi-rigid Velcro? backing plate (to ensure maximum abrasive used over minimum area) and ensure that pad is clean by removing oxidised paint and / or polish debris regularly or replace pad with a fresh one
2. M105 has a very fast working time (10-15 seconds)
3. Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures consistent surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish (taking care not to allow the oils / lubricant to dry out).
4. Prime the pad by semi-saturating (80%) the foam and then allow the liquid time to permeate the pore structure of the foam, and then ensure to spread the liquid abrasive uniformly. Keeping the pad flat while applying a constant / consistent pressure; thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact, when the initial polish has been expended replace with 5-6 small sized dots. Keep the pad flat (like you would with a sanding block) while applying constant pressure, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding).Do not allow the pad to ?load-up?
5. Re-wetting (Mequiar?s Final Touch, diluted 1:1 distilled water) the abrasive residue will re-activate the product and provide extended work time. Do not use too much as it will cause the pad / polish to aquaplane; negating the abrasives ability
6. Pad grit number, amount of pressure applied and time will all affect the amount of abrasion achieved. If the initial process doesn?t provide the desired finish, increase the aggressiveness of the process; i.e. use a longer working time, increased pressure, increases the cut of the polishing pad.
7. A normal polishing process will remove approximately 0. 1 Mil (3? (Microns)) A properly primed cutting pad will eliminate most surface scratches and M205 will polish (burnish) the finish
8. Alternative method ? My preference for removing sanding marks or serious paint defects with M105 is in combination with a rotary buffer and a LC Purple foam / wool cutting pad
9. Alternative polish - 3M Perfect-It? Rubbing Compound (6085)
10. M105 tends to leave scratches that are similar to scratches from finishing paper, i.e. uniform size and depth. Use M205 Ultra Finishing Polish to remove them; prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, then using a non-abrasive, soft foam (100 PPI) pad at 900-1000RPM and then increase to 1200-1500RPM and then with a minimum of pressure make few passes at 1000 / 900RPM.
11. [When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You cannot refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to erode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.] Todd Helme TH0001
An extract from ?Polishing Paint (Surface Correction / Renovation) ?, one of a series of 118 unbiased ?The Science of Detailing? technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.
TOGWT ? Ltd (Established 1980) ? Copyright 2002-2010, all rights reserved
Husker, I am no expert - by any standard but I am the most anal person I know when it comes to the finish on my car. I swear to you, I use only 105 and then I move up to 085rd for my final polish. I think the 105 is UNBELIEVABLY versatile. I've never experienced the scratches noted in a previous post. I read someone else say this here once before and I didnt believe it but it is amazing how close to LSP ready M105 can take you.
I Love it. It just requires patience to get it to cut deep. Thats probably better for hackers like me who have burned through some clear in his day. I remember burning through the clear in my brand new Cayman 2 yrs ago with 3m swirl remover with a pea size dab of P21s Multi-surface restorer in the middle of the pad. (recommendation from Larry @ Car Care specialties in NJ). I am passing over the burn saying to myself, "damn, what is that? I need to go over it some more. Why is it getting bigger?"..
Joe D.
imported_RootsRadical
New member
Doh! :doh:
Yeah, that makes me sick to my stomach, just reading it. Ouch!
imported_glfahlc
New member
i agree, i just did my pick up with it and after using the 105 i took the dual xenon and went over the paint very carefully and it actually looked lsp ready. amazing stuff for sure. i plan on doing the wifes jet black bimmer tommorrow and that will be the decisive paint to tell if there are micro scratches after m105. softest clear in the world on that car.
Pardon the dumb question but when TOGWT says m105 has a 10 - 15 second working time what does that mean in regards to using the product? Say I do a 2' x 2' area in 15 seconds?
This is a fantastic site and I read it often but lately been out of town to much to put everyone's expertise into action.
Thank you,
83Esprit
This is a fantastic site and I read it often but lately been out of town to much to put everyone's expertise into action.
Thank you,
83Esprit
I'm not sure what it means, maybe when using it with a rotary.
Using M105 with a PC or any R/O and a primed flat LC orange pad, you should be able to work an area for up to 45 or maybe even 60 seconds.
Do half of the trunk with M105/orange till the defects are gone or you are happy.
Divide that area into 3 sections.
Leave the first section as is.
2nd/3rd section using an orange pad primed with m205.
3rd section use black pad primed with M205.
You might see the biggest different in the 1st and 2nd sections.
The third section you will see a good improvement too.
If you are not sure, take pics with your flash of each section, then check it out on your home computer.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
That's the older version of M105 that would flash 10-15 sec! I love it and stock up in gallons..............:biggrin:
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
O.K. I just spit mashed potatoes thru my nose onto my monitor
I don't think there's a worse feeling in the world then when you have realized you have just ruined a finish. Not that its ever happened to me mind you :devil:
I only half about 1/3 of a gallon left of the original version
RED JEWELL SS
New member
Ok guys, I am trying to figure this out, so , is m105 diminishing or non ? I am guessing "non" ?
Maybe a newbee like me would appreciate a chart on Dim or non Dim....is there such an animal ?
Every time I think I am starting to get a grip ......it all blows up again....:StarWars: :biggrin:
Maybe a newbee like me would appreciate a chart on Dim or non Dim....is there such an animal ?
Every time I think I am starting to get a grip ......it all blows up again....:StarWars: :biggrin: