Thoughts on first time rotary usage

Accumulator said:
reggie11- That white wool/#83 combo sounds mighty gentle to me...at least the white wool part of it. And #83 wouldn't be *my* choice, but that's just me.
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I was going off SuperBee's recommendation that the white would be good start with as the orange is pretty agressive. I am first timer with the rotary so want to be careful. Would I be better going with a stronger polish?



What would be your choice for the first polish?
 
I (once again :) ) agree with Accumulator; your polishing combo is a bit on the mild side. You would want to use the Optimum Polish with the white wool as your final step. Alot of people really like Optimum Polish, and it does work very well on softer paints, but generally it is too mild. So mild that you may have a hard time using it to remove any compounding marks/holograms you have in the paint after your correcting step. You might want to step up to Ultrafina, Menzerna PO106FF, or (my new guy favorite) 1Z High Gloss. If you have softer clear, though, the Optimum Polish will give great results as a final polish.



For correction, use the Blue Edge wool with something a bit stronger... Menzerna Intensive Polish works very well with wool, as does Optimum Compound. The OC won't finish quite as well as the MIP, but it does have more umph to it.
 
SuperBee364- Hm..."step up from OP to 1Z HG" :confused: Maybe the rotary makes all the difference (I've used OP by rotary but not the 1Z HG), but by PC/Cyclo I woulda rated the OP as *more aggressive* than the 1Z HG.
 
I have a G35 and I hear the paint is pretty soft on the G35's.



I thought the blue is for finishing? I thought it went Green , Orange, White, Blue, and then Red.



So I would be better off starting with the blue and finishing with the White.



What are your thoughts on SSR2 with wool?



MIP is a little expensive for me and I thought a compound would be really agressive?



Sorry for all the questions....
 
Accumulator said:
SuperBee364- Hm..."step up from OP to 1Z HG" :confused: Maybe the rotary makes all the difference (I've used OP by rotary but not the 1Z HG), but by PC/Cyclo I woulda rated the OP as *more aggressive* than the 1Z HG.
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This may be the very first time we've had a difference of opinion! :)



The 1Z High Gloss is a ceramiclear rated final polish that is very similar to PO106FF in it's ability to clean up compounding marks, holograms, and light imperfections. It takes about the same amount of time for it to do this on soft clears as it does on really hard ones. Optimum Polish has just about the same abilities on soft to normal hardness clears, but is completely stumped on the hard stuff. Even on hard GM paint, the 1Z High Gloss impresses. OP stays on the shelf for me when a hard clear comes in, yet I wouldn't hesitate to grab the Einszett. And the fact that it does it at 1k rpm or less is the proverbial icing.
 
SuperBee364- Well, I'll defer to your more informed opinion...I've never come close to a direct comparison between the two products and the closest I've come to trying correction with the 1Z HG was via PC/Cyclo on the A8; I missed a small RIDS, noticed it after the first coat of wax, and tried to 1Z HG it away with no luck (ended up getting it ~90% with 3M PI-III RC/MG and then burnished with the 1Z).



Hey, what do I know, having only used the 1Z HG once, as a burnishing/final polish via Cyclo on the already-corrected A8 :nixweiss



And, heh heh, truth be told, my OP pretty much stays on the shelf *period* ;) I like that it doesn't dust, but all-in-all I greatly prefer my old PI-III stuff.



reggie11- Seems like either you or I are getting a little mixed up between the foam and the wool :confused: The color-coding is different for each.
 
Accumulator said:
SuperBee364- Well, I'll defer to your more informed opinion...I've never come close to a direct comparison between the two products and the closest I've come to trying correction with the 1Z HG was via PC/Cyclo on the A8; I missed a small RIDS, noticed it after the first coat of wax, and tried to 1Z HG it away with no luck (ended up getting it ~90% with 3M PI-III RC/MG and then burnished with the 1Z).



Hey, what do I know, having only used the 1Z HG once, as a burnishing/final polish via Cyclo on the already-corrected A8 :nixweiss



And, heh heh, truth be told, my OP pretty much stays on the shelf *period* ;) I like that it doesn't dust, but all-in-all I greatly prefer my old PI-III stuff.



reggie11- Seems like either you or I are getting a little mixed up between the foam and the wool :confused: The color-coding is different for each.
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I doubt there's anyone around more informed about this kinda stuff than you, man. :) Plus, you've given me an idea for yet another detailing test: 1Z vs. OP, and how they directly compare on 1/2 of a hard clear coat hood. Always having some sort of test or comparison to run kinda puts an extra bit of fun into the detailing, and I've gotten so many test ideas from you... keep em coming!



I think Reggie posted his final process at the top, and his correction process at the bottom...
 
SuperBee364 said:
I doubt there's anyone around more informed about this kinda stuff than you, man...
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Heh heh, I appreciate the sentiment, but seriously... the only Menzerna product I've ever used is FPI, I don't finish by rotary, and these days I do maybe one or two corrections a year. I'm simply not in the same league as a whole lotta people (not like I'm in any way dissatisfied with how all my vehicles look though ;) Edit: Well, maybe that M3 but it was hammered when I got it ).



.. I've gotten so many test ideas from you... keep em coming..
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Heh heh, I suspect I'm better at coming up with those test ideas than I am at doing any tests :o

 
SuperBee,



Can you confirm if I have the color coding correct for the edge wool pads?



Green, Orange, White, Blue, and Red?



So you are recommending that I use the blue pad with OP and then follow that up with the white with #83? I thought the #83 was more aggressive then the OP.



Things can get really confusing when you are new to this!:confused:
 
No worries, Reggie, it's still confusing even when you're *not* new to this. :)



Check out this link for actual Edge part numbers so you can give the order taker the actual Edge part numbers to avoid confusion...



Dedication to Detail - The Edge Buffing Pads



Black = Heaviest cut for serious compounding



Yellow= heavy cut compounding



Green= they say "Light cut", but it seems more medium to me. Works well for medium corrections with a medium polish like SIP, IP, OC, etc.



Blue= fine cut correcting. Similar to a white LC foam pad, but with a tad more umph.



white = no cut finishing wool. I love the look this gives... warm glow like carnauba. You can finish finer than this pad with something like a black LC foam, but this is still a great pad. It's especially good for people new to the rotary to finish with because it's so much more forgiving than foam. And unlike most wools, it's unlikely to hologram unless you overwork/drybuff your finishing polish.
 
Excellent....you are a wise man:bow



Should I use the OP or #83 to finish with or does it matter?

Also you mentioned using the OP compound is this much heavier then the OP Polish?



Does anyone have any thoughts on the Poorboys products (SSR1 and SSR2)?
 
I would prefer the OP to #83 for finishing, but that's just opinion. 83 is a bit more aggressive than what I'd use for a finishing polish. OP really is a nice finishing polish. Very long working time.



Optimum Compound is marketed as a heavy cut compound, but to me it seems more like a medium weight (similar to SIP, IP, etc), and it works *very* well with wool. Optimum Hyper Compound, OTOH, does *not* play with wool very well. The directions on the bottle even recommend not using wool with Optimum Hyper Compound, so make sure you get the right stuff. :) Edit: you will get some compoundng marks, etc. from OC; it doesn't finish down quite as well as other polishes in the same category, but it sure is easy to use. Just don't be concerned if the finish the OC leaves behind doesn't look very good. It'll clean up nicely when you hit it with the OP.



If your car has medium defects (very subjective, I know, but you'll get to know soon enough), you'll want to use something like the green wool with the Optimum Compound. Then follow that up with the Optimum Polish and the white wool. If the white wool isn't clearing up the compounding marks as well as you'd like, use the OP with the blue wool instead.



I have zero experience with the Poor Boy's World line. :/
 
I can chime in on the Poorboy's line... it dusts too much for me to enjoy polishing. While I haven't corrected paint with SIP just yet (I finally scored a sample), I can't make a dusting comparison between PB's and SIP just yet.
 
Denzil said:
I can chime in on the Poorboy's line... it dusts too much for me to enjoy polishing. While I haven't corrected paint with SIP just yet (I finally scored a sample), I can't make a dusting comparison between PB's and SIP just yet.
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I appreciate the info. Looks like I wll stick to the stuff I was originally thinking about using.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Black = Heaviest cut for serious compounding



Yellow= heavy cut compounding



Green= they say "Light cut", but it seems more medium to me. Works well for medium corrections with a medium polish like SIP, IP, OC, etc.



Blue= fine cut correcting. Similar to a white LC foam pad, but with a tad more umph.



white = no cut finishing wool. I love the look this gives... warm glow like carnauba. You can finish finer than this pad with something like a black LC foam, but this is still a great pad. It's especially good for people new to the rotary to finish with because it's so much more forgiving than foam. And unlike most wools, it's unlikely to hologram unless you overwork/drybuff your finishing polish.
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Thanks for the link. So if I am looking for medium correction I was thinking of using OP with a green pad and then finishing it with a white pad with OP. Being a first time rotaty user I am a little worried that if I use the OC with the green pad it may be a little to aggressive. What are your thoughts? Maybe I should use the OC with the blue pad....
 
Start with the blue pad, then move to the green if you need it. Remember, though, that OC *will* leave compounding marks. Don't worry about it; they'll come out when you use the OP. OC and OP are both very good polishes to learn the rotary with.



Use the OP with either the Blue or White wool.



Edit: D'oh! I forgot you're working on a jet black bimmer. You'll want to use the OP with either the white finishing wool, or a black LC foam pad. That paint is too soft to be able to finish out with blue wool.
 
You can never have too many pads. :) Especially when you still have a bunch of car left to do and you're staring at your last pad on the rotary, and it's completely loaded with product.



Minimum of two each.
 
SuperBee364 said:
You can never have too many pads. :) Especially when you still have a bunch of car left to do and you're staring at your last pad on the rotary, and it's completely loaded with product.



Minimum of two each.
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That would suck. Is there a good method to keep the wool ones clean? Any special cleaning products?
 
A wool pad spur is essential. I spur the pad between each application. I use Snappy Pad pad cleaner for both wool and foam pads.



Hey Reggie, please note that I made an important change to a previous post... I had a momentary brain freeze, and forgot that you were working on BMW jet black paint. That stuff is too soft to use anything other than white finishing wool or a black LC foam pad for your final OP pass.
 
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