sneek
New member
ZoranC said:
I see an MR-S
that you can't get in Canada
PC & WetSanding?
- Thread starter Jeremy1026
- Start date
I see an MR-S
that you can't get in CanadaWhen wetsanding you are treading into "serious" territory. I had some water etching pretty bad on my hood from the last few weeks. I tried Yellow cutting pad with EC @ 1800 rpms and it helped but didnt remove them all. I got tired of looking at my hood in shame (at least in my eyes), I then decided to break out the 2000 grit 3m sand paper and proceeded wetsanding the entire hood. I used a foamed wool pad at roughly 2000rpms to COMPLETELY remove any sanding marks. I have not tried removing sanding marks with my PC but I do not think its 100% effective as the rotary. I honestly do not think that the PC could yield the same exact results I achieved with the rotary. Sure you can remove "most" visible sanding marks with the PC and right combo, but ALL of them until there is ZERO trace, its hard to chew. Im not down playing the PC, but instead, warning wetsand users of the possible dangers of not being able to remove the sanding marks entirely with PC.
BTW, I took measurement with a paint gauge to see how much thickness is removed during such a process. My hood was reading around 270ish (due to repaint a few years ago) after wetsanding, ec with wool, sip with orange, and 106ff with finesse pad, average readings were about 20-30 ulms lower. This process takes off a lot of thickness!
Accumulator
Well-known member
FWIW, while I'd sure rather use a rotary, I have removed 2K sanding scratches from Audi clear *by hand* using 3M PI-III RC 05933. Took forever though and the scratches were from UniGrit (2K block), which doesn't leave the same random, deeper-than-2K scratches that I always get with 3M paper.
Leaving aside the issue of products that only break down via heat, the whole "can it be done by hand/PC?" thing is, IMO/IME, a matter of time. This is just mechanical abrasion we're talking about; it doesn't matter what method you use to move the abrasive across the material being abraded, what matters is that the product is harder than the paint and thus takes off some paint with each pass. Beyond that it's just a matter of time (and effort) and yeah, machines like rotaries do the work in a fraction of the time...but it's still just a matter of moving the product over the paint X number of times.
It *is* possible to go all the way through paint with a PC (done it on b/c and ss), or even by hand (only done that on ss) so I can't imagine it being impossible to remove a scratch. Doesn't mean I'd want to spend forever doing it the hard/slow way though
Consider that steel is a *LOT* harder than paint; people have been abrading/polishing (i.e., "sharpening") hard steels by hand since long before such processes were done by machines
Leaving aside the issue of products that only break down via heat, the whole "can it be done by hand/PC?" thing is, IMO/IME, a matter of time. This is just mechanical abrasion we're talking about; it doesn't matter what method you use to move the abrasive across the material being abraded, what matters is that the product is harder than the paint and thus takes off some paint with each pass. Beyond that it's just a matter of time (and effort) and yeah, machines like rotaries do the work in a fraction of the time...but it's still just a matter of moving the product over the paint X number of times.
It *is* possible to go all the way through paint with a PC (done it on b/c and ss), or even by hand (only done that on ss) so I can't imagine it being impossible to remove a scratch. Doesn't mean I'd want to spend forever doing it the hard/slow way though
Consider that steel is a *LOT* harder than paint; people have been abrading/polishing (i.e., "sharpening") hard steels by hand since long before such processes were done by machines
Richard@BlackWOW
New member
2500 grit Unigrit. It offers the best chance for success when sanding because of the largely uniform grit particles, the chance for tracers and other sanding defects are greatly reduced thus enabling a much better polishing job. The PC isn't the right tool for every job, but for many situations when that's all you've got, under the right conditions, the PC can indeed polish out sanding marks, and especially so if you're removing isolated sanding marks say from a touch up or scratch repair.
Immers1 said:
imported_Puckman
New member
About 3 years ago I touched up 4 hood chips with touch up paint and wetsanded down to the surrounding surface. I used my PC and OC with an orange pad and worked the 4 quarter sized cloudy areas down perfectly. I remember it took me some time and many passes but it removed everything. I should mention that I finished with 3M 3000 grit paper. If all you have is a PC it can be done IMO/E.