PC Pad/Polish recommendation for Audi Red
- Thread starter jetmaker
- Start date
For someone new to machine polishing I recommend a kit from Adam's Polishes. They have made it "puddin' simple". Use the orange product (Swirl and Haze Remover - most aggressive) on an orange pad (most aggressive), the white product (Fine Machine Polish) on the white pad, and to finish, the black product (Super Machine Wax - really a sealant) on the black pads.
When you get comfortable with the products, pads, and machine you can mix them up a little for different cut levels. After you're past the newbie stage, try other vendor's products and pads, and you'll already have a 6" backing plate.
When you get comfortable with the products, pads, and machine you can mix them up a little for different cut levels. After you're past the newbie stage, try other vendor's products and pads, and you'll already have a 6" backing plate.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jetmaker said:
Welcome to Autopia! Fellow Audi owner here...
What kind of machine will you be using, or will you be trying to do this by hand.
Audi clear is usually very hard and even mild correction can sometimes be a challenge.
Carticular
New member
I have a 2006 A4 and M105 and M205 are perfect. M105 on a 5.5" Orange LC pad and M205 on a 5.5" White LC pad using a PC.
I've got so far:
5.5inch orange pads
Menzerna SIP & 106FA
PC 7424 XP
On my silver audi I've not been able to remove the swirls with the orange/SIP combo and multiple passes.
Only thing I haven't tried with that combo is using more pressure on the PC.
If even that fails, do you recommend I jump to the 105 or should I try the 4inch pads with SIP first?
Looking for the best combo of effectiveness without ending up with too many different products.
Oh and if I go with the M105 I'm assuming the 106FA is fine as a final finishing polish?
5.5inch orange pads
Menzerna SIP & 106FA
PC 7424 XP
On my silver audi I've not been able to remove the swirls with the orange/SIP combo and multiple passes.
Only thing I haven't tried with that combo is using more pressure on the PC.
If even that fails, do you recommend I jump to the 105 or should I try the 4inch pads with SIP first?
Looking for the best combo of effectiveness without ending up with too many different products.
Oh and if I go with the M105 I'm assuming the 106FA is fine as a final finishing polish?
Carticular
New member
Try more pressure, if that still doesn't work M105 will definetly do the job.
Accumulator
Well-known member
uberyk said:
I'd try the 4" pads and pressure (don't be goofy-extreme about it though). I was able to correct Audis before M105 came out, though it did take a while.
As long as it's the sort of product that'll remove light marring it oughta work fine. I've used a number of products after M105 on Audis and they were all OK, some just take more passes/work than others.
looks like tonight's set then.
work, gym, dinner and test panel with more pressure on current setup (5.5inch uber orange+SIP).
I REALLY hope this works, I'm going to go broke trying to get a 10yr old car shiny.
If it doesn't work I'll be washing all my orange pads and introducing them to M105.
Is this sold locally at all or is it only available on the web?
work, gym, dinner and test panel with more pressure on current setup (5.5inch uber orange+SIP).
I REALLY hope this works, I'm going to go broke trying to get a 10yr old car shiny.
If it doesn't work I'll be washing all my orange pads and introducing them to M105.
Is this sold locally at all or is it only available on the web?
Accumulator
Well-known member
uberyk said:
Heh heh, yeah...with a few Audis in my garage I sure like having M105 on hand
My local autobody/paint supply place doesn't have it, so I've always ordered online.
Envious Eric
New member
m105, menzerna SIP, m205, Menzerna FPII
orange pad, white pad, blue pad, black pad
speed 6 with each step
= liquid red!
orange pad, white pad, blue pad, black pad
speed 6 with each step
= liquid red!
right so...
went to lowes and picked up a 1000watt halogen worklight set as I knew I was going to be working way past sunlight.
spot washed the trunk lid and split the top panel into two halves.
each half took three hits with the orange pad/SIP combo.
1 hit = 3passes slow speed/heavy pressure; 2-3 passes moderate speed/moderate pressure.
followed up with 1 hit with blue pad/106FA
(all my pads are the uber variety from DD)
this did get a pretty good result.
i can't really judge on the percentage scale but a good majority of the swirls were gone under the halogens.
it's been overcast all day so I'm still not able to check under bright, direct sunlight.
6hits overall on one panel seems way too much for me.
it took over an hour and I can't imagine trying to do an entire car at that rate.
I'll most likely try a yellow pad from DD with SIP next.
And if even that takes a while then move up to M105.
on a side note, yesterdays work produced an INSANE amount of dust.
i thought i rinsed it all off but noticed a good amount of white specks on the neighboring panels in the morning.
gave it a wash midday and they are still there (have to be rubbed with some pressure to remove it seems)
so, as noob as this might sound, what's the best way to make sure all the dust gets rinsed off cleanly?
and when you do an entire car, do you rinse after every panel or do you wait till the end?
also, feel free to comment/add on to anything else mentioned.
I feel some satisfaction at the results but really wish it could be shortened time wise.
went to lowes and picked up a 1000watt halogen worklight set as I knew I was going to be working way past sunlight.
spot washed the trunk lid and split the top panel into two halves.
each half took three hits with the orange pad/SIP combo.
1 hit = 3passes slow speed/heavy pressure; 2-3 passes moderate speed/moderate pressure.
followed up with 1 hit with blue pad/106FA
(all my pads are the uber variety from DD)
this did get a pretty good result.
i can't really judge on the percentage scale but a good majority of the swirls were gone under the halogens.
it's been overcast all day so I'm still not able to check under bright, direct sunlight.
6hits overall on one panel seems way too much for me.
it took over an hour and I can't imagine trying to do an entire car at that rate.
I'll most likely try a yellow pad from DD with SIP next.
And if even that takes a while then move up to M105.
on a side note, yesterdays work produced an INSANE amount of dust.
i thought i rinsed it all off but noticed a good amount of white specks on the neighboring panels in the morning.
gave it a wash midday and they are still there (have to be rubbed with some pressure to remove it seems)
so, as noob as this might sound, what's the best way to make sure all the dust gets rinsed off cleanly?
and when you do an entire car, do you rinse after every panel or do you wait till the end?
also, feel free to comment/add on to anything else mentioned.
I feel some satisfaction at the results but really wish it could be shortened time wise.
jester7677
Member
I have an 05 Audi, and have used SIP+Orange with either a PC or Flex and pressure. I then followed up with 106 + White. You will be able to remove spiderwebs with this combo, but not much more in my opinion. Car looks great, super shiny, but there are pits and water spots that I need to make a more agressive pass at in the future.
Next spring, I'm going to take the M105 and M205 plunge and see what happens.
Either way, if I get the car in the condition I want, it won't stay that way for long... It's black... and because of that I'm not going to go super aggressive...
Next spring, I'm going to take the M105 and M205 plunge and see what happens.
Either way, if I get the car in the condition I want, it won't stay that way for long... It's black... and because of that I'm not going to go super aggressive...
hmm... guess my long winded follow up post from yesterday never made it.
i'll try to sum up once again.
split the top trunk panel in two halves
each half was given 3 hits with SIP/Uber Orange 5.5 pad
1 hit= 3 slow/heavy pressure passes and 2-3 medium speed/moderate pressure passes
followed up with 106FA/blue pad, 2-3 passes medium speed/light pressure
good:
got rid of a majority of swirls under the 1000watt halogens
can't really judge a percentage of correction (i'm new at this)
been overcast and haven't been able to see it under direct sunlight
bad:
took over an hour to do just the one trunk panel
can't imagine having to do an entire cut at this rate
so so:
INSANE amount of dust
rinse didn't even get rid of all the dust and still have a few specks after rinse and wash.
specks look like they'll need to be rubbed out
future:
going to try out uber yellow 5.5pad with SIP
if that doesn't work will consider M105 (a new animal to learn IIRC)
goal is to try to cut work time in half ideally
related questions:
any way to reduce the dust or at least a good way to make sure all the dust gets removed?
all comments/suggestions welcome
i'll try to sum up once again.
split the top trunk panel in two halves
each half was given 3 hits with SIP/Uber Orange 5.5 pad
1 hit= 3 slow/heavy pressure passes and 2-3 medium speed/moderate pressure passes
followed up with 106FA/blue pad, 2-3 passes medium speed/light pressure
good:
got rid of a majority of swirls under the 1000watt halogens
can't really judge a percentage of correction (i'm new at this)
been overcast and haven't been able to see it under direct sunlight
bad:
took over an hour to do just the one trunk panel
can't imagine having to do an entire cut at this rate
so so:
INSANE amount of dust
rinse didn't even get rid of all the dust and still have a few specks after rinse and wash.
specks look like they'll need to be rubbed out
future:
going to try out uber yellow 5.5pad with SIP
if that doesn't work will consider M105 (a new animal to learn IIRC)
goal is to try to cut work time in half ideally
related questions:
any way to reduce the dust or at least a good way to make sure all the dust gets removed?
all comments/suggestions welcome
Accumulator
Well-known member
toyotaguy-Hey, I like the way you slotted the SIP in between the M105 and M205, that sounds like a good idea :xyxthumbs I've been doing M205/orange instead, but you've got me thinking...
Jimenez66- If you have the proper mindset you can just read up (search for good info here at Autopia), buy a Flex and some pads/products, and go for it. In most cases there's no need for training, practice panels, etc. *if* you have the right mindset and do the right studying beforehand.
uberyk- Some sorta-random thoughts follow:
The dust sorta comes with the territory (with most products) but it doesn't really cause real *issues* with, say...M105 if you use it properly because you're wiping everything off, and doing so before the product is completely dry. Maybe spritz the area of operation (AO) with #34 or TOL's Prep Wash before buffing off the residue.
The work you did actually doesn't sound like all that much for correcting an Audi; spending a *LOT* more time than that isn't unusual at all.
I'd do much smaller areas at a time, certainly not half a panel (even on a smallish car). A smaller AO will help you get the dust/residue/etc. issues under better control.
I'd sure switch to M105 instead of just upping to a yellow pad. Trying to force a product to be more aggressive by switching from an orange to a yellow pad isn't likely to yield a good outcome IMO. I sure wouldn't want to try that on one of *my* Audis! If a product didn't work with orange I'd try PFW, but otherwise I'd up the product, *not* the pad.
IMO the learning curve to M105 is nice and steep, in part because there's no product breakdown to consider. Just work small areas and clean out the pad frequently so it doesn't get loaded with clumps of dried product.
You just need something more aggressive; M105, PowerGloss, something along those lines.
Jimenez66- If you have the proper mindset you can just read up (search for good info here at Autopia), buy a Flex and some pads/products, and go for it. In most cases there's no need for training, practice panels, etc. *if* you have the right mindset and do the right studying beforehand.
uberyk- Some sorta-random thoughts follow:
The dust sorta comes with the territory (with most products) but it doesn't really cause real *issues* with, say...M105 if you use it properly because you're wiping everything off, and doing so before the product is completely dry. Maybe spritz the area of operation (AO) with #34 or TOL's Prep Wash before buffing off the residue.
The work you did actually doesn't sound like all that much for correcting an Audi; spending a *LOT* more time than that isn't unusual at all.
I'd do much smaller areas at a time, certainly not half a panel (even on a smallish car). A smaller AO will help you get the dust/residue/etc. issues under better control.
I'd sure switch to M105 instead of just upping to a yellow pad. Trying to force a product to be more aggressive by switching from an orange to a yellow pad isn't likely to yield a good outcome IMO. I sure wouldn't want to try that on one of *my* Audis! If a product didn't work with orange I'd try PFW, but otherwise I'd up the product, *not* the pad.
IMO the learning curve to M105 is nice and steep, in part because there's no product breakdown to consider. Just work small areas and clean out the pad frequently so it doesn't get loaded with clumps of dried product.
You just need something more aggressive; M105, PowerGloss, something along those lines.
Yeah, I just realized after looking over some detailing works posted here that an hour on a panel really isn't too bad. Especially since that was over an hour including all the prep work (washing, claying, taping etc)
I've seen the yellow pad used with SIP before which is why I was thinking of that route.
But I've decided on a different route; work on a slightly smaller area with 4inch orange pads.
I've been looking to pick some 4inch pads for the smaller areas anyway so this looks like a good opportunity to do so.
I'll probably hold off on the M105 as I'm just getting the hang of the Menzerna line.
I would like to test M105 on the girlfriend's car but she drives a Honda Civic.
The M105 would probably strip it down to bare metal in one pass.
One of these days I'll just have to take a day off from work and invade my friend's garage and work for hours straight.
I've seen the yellow pad used with SIP before which is why I was thinking of that route.
But I've decided on a different route; work on a slightly smaller area with 4inch orange pads.
I've been looking to pick some 4inch pads for the smaller areas anyway so this looks like a good opportunity to do so.
I'll probably hold off on the M105 as I'm just getting the hang of the Menzerna line.
I would like to test M105 on the girlfriend's car but she drives a Honda Civic.
The M105 would probably strip it down to bare metal in one pass.
One of these days I'll just have to take a day off from work and invade my friend's garage and work for hours straight.
Accumulator
Well-known member
uberyk- Those 4" orange pads just might do the trick :xyxthumbs
Accumulator - You've been a big help so I'll just lean on you for some more info :2thumbs:
I'm trying to determine which 4inch orange pads to get.
There's the Uber line from DD
Lake Country from autogeek (and of those regular or low profile?)
Erasure from ExcelDetail
so far the erasure's are on top just because of pricing.
I've done a search but all the pad threads seem to be older and wanted to know if there were any updated thoughts.
hoping the 4inch orange/SIP/heavy pressure/Speed 6 cuts the work time a bit.
I'm trying to determine which 4inch orange pads to get.
There's the Uber line from DD
Lake Country from autogeek (and of those regular or low profile?)
Erasure from ExcelDetail
so far the erasure's are on top just because of pricing.
I've done a search but all the pad threads seem to be older and wanted to know if there were any updated thoughts.
hoping the 4inch orange/SIP/heavy pressure/Speed 6 cuts the work time a bit.
Accumulator
Well-known member
uberyk- I'm afraid I won't be much help with this one as I'm still using the 4" orange pads I bought from CycloToolmakers (I think) a long time ago.
I prefer thicker ones over thinner, and FWIW I often find that speed 5 works better overall than 6 (with the 4" pads).
I prefer thicker ones over thinner, and FWIW I often find that speed 5 works better overall than 6 (with the 4" pads).