PC or rotary?

M

mike0565

New member
Hi guys,

I'm a noobee here and I'm looking for some advice. I have been useing a craftsman rotary buffer for about 12 years. I have always gotten good results with it. However, it has seen better days and I will be replacing it. Should I buy another rotary, or will I be able to adjust to a PC, and will I like it. It looks like a nice machine. Thanks.:think:
 
well if you have been using a rotary and getting good results with it, i doubt you would be happy overall with the PC, it just doesent have the ability to REALLY correct paint like you can with the rotary.
 
There's nothing like the results and speed of a rotary in the hands of a master, but you are already familiar with that type of polisher, so that's not an issue. The PC is great for small spots that the rotary can't get to, but for the big areas, I think you will like the rotary better. There is a use for both machines, I just find it hard to think that a rotary user could take a step down to a PC. I, personally, have three machines, a rotary, a pc, and a cyclo and they all have specific, yet different uses *for me*.
 
JDookie said:
There's nothing like the results and speed of a rotary in the hands of a master, but you are already familiar with that type of polisher, so that's not an issue. The PC is great for small spots that the rotary can't get to, but for the big areas, I think you will like the rotary better. There is a use for both machines, I just find it hard to think that a rotary user could take a step down to a PC. I, personally, have three machines, a rotary, a pc, and a cyclo and they all have specific, yet different uses *for me*.
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Thanks for the input guys. I don't break out the rotary all that much anymore. I can still use it but it is old. I detail for 3 people and have been for years. I don't come across to many cars that I have to put the pad to (my customers don't take their cars through the car wash, and I am the only one who details them). They are all newer cars with nice finishes. My personal drivers are a 03' dakota quad, and a 07' accord (my wifes). I find myself taking out light scratches and spider webs. It's usually nothing major. Would the PC be worth my while to buy to apply waxes. I usually wax my own cars at least once every 3 to 4 weeks.
 
Absolutely!! The PC is excellent for applying sealants and waxes. The PC can accomplish 75% of what you can do with a rotary, it just takes more time. The PC sounds like the perfect tool for you actually.
 
Anyone ever deal with Autogeek for their machines or supplies? They seem to have decent prices on their website.
 
JDookie said:
Absolutely!! The PC is excellent for applying sealants and waxes. The PC can accomplish 75% of what you can do with a rotary, it just takes more time. The PC sounds like the perfect tool for you actually.
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While I understand what you are trying to say I don't agree with the 75% number. A rotary with a wool pad and compound will do far more than a PC. I think time wise you could do in 15 minutes with a rotary what would take hours to accomplish by PC (and in some cases never). The PC is great for final finishing on darks.
 
wannafbody said:
While I understand what you are trying to say I don't agree with the 75% number. A rotary with a wool pad and compound will do far more than a PC. I think time wise you could do in 15 minutes with a rotary what would take hours to accomplish by PC (and in some cases never). The PC is great for final finishing on darks.
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That's exactly what I consider the other 25%. Those rare occasions where you are dealing with a finish so bad that it takes the cutting of a rotary to get a good base. The thing is, once you cut the finish down to something workable, you can pretty much do the rest with a PC, no problem. The only difference that remains is the amount of time it takes to get there.
 
JDookie said:
There's nothing like the results and speed of a rotary in the hands of a master, but you are already familiar with that type of polisher, so that's not an issue. The PC is great for small spots that the rotary can't get to, but for the big areas, I think you will like the rotary better. There is a use for both machines, I just find it hard to think that a rotary user could take a step down to a PC. I, personally, have three machines, a rotary, a pc, and a cyclo and they all have specific, yet different uses *for me*.
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Could you please explain the 3 different situations where one would be better than the other(PC vs Cyclo vs rotary), I'm beginning to wonder?

Changeling
 
JDookie said:
That's exactly what I consider the other 25%. Those rare occasions where you are dealing with a finish so bad that it takes the cutting of a rotary to get a good base. The thing is, once you cut the finish down to something workable, you can pretty much do the rest with a PC, no problem. The only difference that remains is the amount of time it takes to get there.
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On most corrections that get started with a rotary, it's highly unlikely/un-necessary to change over to a PC to do other steps except applying wax/sealant at the very end.
 
David Fermani said:
On most corrections that get started with a rotary, it's highly unlikely/un-necessary to change over to a PC to do other steps except applying wax/sealant at the very end.
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*IF* you have the skill to finish out 100% hologram-free with the rotary and the ability to inspect your work in the proper lighting to ascertain that you did so ;) Those can be some mighty big "if"s for some of us.



I'll readily admit that I always finish up with the PC/Cyclo (preferably the latter) and I've never seen any detrimental effects from doing so. I know that some people do just fine rotary-only, but as long as Mike Phillips finishes *his* work with the PC I'm content to do so too ;)



Changeling- If you can do the work with a Cyclo I'd use that instead of a PC. I only use the PC when I'm doing a very small spot repair, or using an product that's not Cyclo-friendly, or when I just think I oughta get some use out of the thing.



I use a rotary for correction that'd take too long by PC/Cyclo. Sometimes that "too long" is *so* long as to be reasonably/practially impossible.
 
Accumulator said:
Changeling- If you can do the work with a Cyclo I'd use that instead of a PC. I only use the PC when I'm doing a very small spot repair, or using an product that's not Cyclo-friendly, or when I just think I oughta get some use out of the thing.
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What products do you find "Cyclo-unfriendly"?
 
Accumulator said:
*IF* you have the skill to finish out 100% hologram-free with the rotary and the ability to inspect your work in the proper lighting to ascertain that you did so ;) Those can be some mighty big "if"s for some of us.



I'll readily admit that I always finish up with the PC/Cyclo (preferably the latter) and I've never seen any detrimental effects from doing so. I know that some people do just fine rotary-only, but as long as Mike Phillips finishes *his* work with the PC I'm content to do so too ;)



Changeling- If you can do the work with a Cyclo I'd use that instead of a PC. I only use the PC when I'm doing a very small spot repair, or using an product that's not Cyclo-friendly, or when I just think I oughta get some use out of the thing.



I use a rotary for correction that'd take too long by PC/Cyclo. Sometimes that "too long" is *so* long as to be reasonably/practially impossible.
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Do you normally apply AIO/LSP with the cyclo (excepting those you do by hand)?

What products have you found to be not so user friendly with the cyclo.



My reasons for asking: I have just plain looked and looked and can't imagine a job I couldn't do with the 4 " heads on the cyclo (smaller than standard PC), the PC can be taken down to 4", but what have you gained?



The cyclo along with a good rotary should be able to take care of 95% of any problems I run into, at least that is how I see it. If there is a small defect in an extreme area or a major scratch, than the answer is none of the above! It's time to wet sand, which is something I "do" have experience with.

It is not the "LOOK OUT" type situation that most people make it out to be, though it can get your donkey in hot water fairly fast if you don't understand the basics.

The wet sanding experience was gained as a kid in a body shop (some what).

Changeling
 
Changeling- There are vehicle contours that the Cyclo simply can't handle and sometimes a PC can get into areas that the Cyclo can't simply because of the different shapes of the two machines' housings. It's something you might not run into so I don't want to make too big a deal out of it, but when it happens you can have that :idea moment if you have the PC and a selection of backing plates and pads to play with.



Changeling & Velobard- Klasse AIO is one product that is *NOT* Cyclo-friendly. Flashes it way too fast making for a very tenacious residue and generally poor performance. Avoid using KAIO by Cyclo unless you want a learning experience that'll test your tolerance for frustration.



But yeah, other than the products I apply by hand (i.e., KSG and UPP) I apply all my LSPs by Cyclo. Well, I've never applied Souveran by Cyclo but I only use it on the Jag and the Cyclo doesn't fit that car (the panel contour issue). If I were Souveraning something else I wouldn't hesitate to use the Cyclo, but then I let Souveran set up as opposed to using the more common W-O-W-O method.
 
Accumulator said:
I'll readily admit that I always finish up with the PC/Cyclo (preferably the latter) and I've never seen any detrimental effects from doing so. I know that some people do just fine rotary-only, but as long as Mike Phillips finishes *his* work with the PC I'm content to do so too ;)
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Are you refering to "finishing" as appling an LSP?



Hypothetical: Dark colored car that you used a rotary w/wool pad and light cutting glaze/polish(not a compound). Would you correct possible swirling caused by the wool pad with a PC/Cyclo or would you rotary with a foam pad? I'd go for the rotary and then final finish/seal with a PC as the very last step only.
 
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