need that deep wet black look again!!

H

hghlndr85

New member
i have a 04 mustang gt and it was treated ****** at dealership i brought it back with the orbital and some black light cut polish from work( i detail) but when i look at the car it doesnt have that deep rich look that new black should have what u guys reccomend? also need a good tire shine.

thanks
 
A glaze should do it some real good - I personally like Menzerna FTG, but I hear Vanilla Moose is even better. Follow that up with a good carnuba (Pinnacle Souveran comes to mind, but FK1 Pink looks 90% as good at a fraction of the price).



For tire shines, decide if you like matte, low gloss, or high gloss. For matte, I like Mother's Reflections tire care. Its OTC, water based, and it looks great. For low gloss, Poorboy's BnB is pretty good, and for extreme gloss, try NXT insane shine or 4* Bazooka.
 
I'd glaze with VM or CKs Red Machine Glaze and either top with Carnauba Moose or the new version of Poorboy's EX w/carnauba. I tried it the other day and it looks incredible!
 
For black, NXT Tech Wax does a good job of enriching dark paint. Check out this half hood done with #80 and then Tech Wax - http://www.autopia.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=563219





As for their tire care products like Insane or Hot Shine. I bought a can and tried it an I feel I get an uneven look so I end up overspraying and then wiping the excess off with a sponge applicator pad to even it out, too much work. Once the can is empty I'm gong back to NoTouch which I used for years without a problem. The trick with getting a good look is to clean the tire first with tire cleaner like Eagle A2Z Wheel/Tire cleaner, get's the brown gunk and brake dust off.
 
You still need to polish with a finer polish and pad to bring up the shine level. Wax at this point will not really fix the problem, just mask it a bit. 3M polished are fine, but some contain fillers and some do not. You may have removed all swirls, but the finish is lacking that high shine w/o wax. That's a clear sign you need to step down on polish and pads to bring it back up. When you're done, it will be deep and shiny.



Work with a finish pad and some Megs hand polish or Menzerna FPII or Poorboys Pro polish. Depending on which 3M polish you used, it just needs a final polish or glaze without fillers. ANy really fine polish is what you want and a finish pad. Take your time and let the product do the work. Make sure the pad is "seasoned" or wet with product before you polish flat. Until then, polish with the pad on the edge unti it's wet with product. Not over saturated, but wet. Misting it with a QD prior helps. You're trying to let the polish do the work, not the pad or you'll spend more time polishing.



Once that's done, try a sealant that's easy for now like Poorboys EX. Then top it with a high grade caranuba like Souveran for a deeper wet look or Nattys for a wet look and a bit more clear. Nattys imparts more of a clear effect where as Souveran imparts a warmer deeper look. It's hard to really tell, but if that's what you want, that deep, dark wet black, then after a sealant, top with Souveran.



Some have gone the Menzerna FMJ route and then top with a high grade caranuba to deepen the look. The FMJ will last a long time!



Polish in the shade or in a garage. Use any metal halide lamps to see how the polish is working.



By the way, are you using a rotary or a PC? This also makes a difference.



Regards,

Deanski
 
I agree with Deanski, you could just mask the problems or actually to fix them. The true Autopian in you should be screaming, "Fix 'em" at this point, but it's up to you. FWIW, my vote is to try a little bit harder (following Deanski's advice) to fix them before you throw in the towel and fill 'em.



Disclaimer: I love 'stangs and quite biased towards them.
 
I would definetly go with Zaino Z2 Pro topped with Z8 on black if you want a deep, wet unbelievable look. With Zaino you really have to make sure the prep work was done properly. If you insist on using a carnuba I would go with Pinnacle Souveran. I have heard that VM topped with PS works very well.
 
Follow Deanski's advise and prep to the level of gloss and depth that you desire. Should be rather easy with such a new paint job.

After this any protectant should finish the job. Only question is how durable do you want that choosen LSP to be?



My preference is the Zaino system for both appearance and longevity of such.:wavey
 
If you want longevity, nothing is going to beat Zaino. The prospect of my hard work evaporating or washing off in a matter of weeks disheartens me. :)



For ultimate wetness, darkness, and deepness, not sure Zaino is the best. A product like FMJ seems to provide a slightly wetter/deeper look, whereas Zaino is more reflective. Perhaps this is because Zaino's high shine causes too many reflections to see into the paint! However, Z8 has really bridged the gap and is sort of like Zaino's version of a carnauba topper.



The difference in looks between these products is very subtle, especially after your car has been prepped well, but perhaps it's a distinction worth noting for the most discerning.
 
Lots of people talk about wax longevity but I think it's overrated. If you had a wax that lasted forever as some car salesman would lead you to believe is possible for $699, what would protect it? Afterall, you wax to protect the clearcoat which protects the basecoat. So do you wax your permanent wax to protect it. See, it's all silly because the same things that make your cleacoat look dull or swirled will make any wax dull or swirled even faster since it's not as hard as the clearcoat. So what you end up with is wax that is still on the car and is probably still protecting the clearcoat but looks dull and has swirls in itself. So yes, water beads up, is that why you waxed your car, to see water bead up? So while I agree that I too want the ultimate wax that made my car shine like new for years, the reality is that any wax that stays on more than a month is likely not going to be at it's peak in appearance and will need to be clayed to remove that dull wax and have new wax applied, cause afterall, we wax to maintain the shine, protecting the paint is nice but that's not on the top of people's mind. So for me, I want a wax that lasts at most, 6-8 weeks, after that I'm not going to happy with the shine and have to re-wax anyway. I don't want a wax like some caranubas that last 2-3 weeks because I don't have time to rewax that often and I don't want a wax that last 3-4 months because that just means I have to remove it before rewaxing creating more work.



Just my 3 cents.
 
buellwinkle said:
Lots of people talk about wax longevity but I think it's overrated. If you had a wax that lasted forever as some car salesman would lead you to believe is possible for $699, what would protect it? Afterall, you wax to protect the clearcoat which protects the basecoat. So do you wax your permanent wax to protect it. See, it's all silly because the same things that make your cleacoat look dull or swirled will make any wax dull or swirled even faster since it's not as hard as the clearcoat. So what you end up with is wax that is still on the car and is probably still protecting the clearcoat but looks dull and has swirls in itself. So yes, water beads up, is that why you waxed your car, to see water bead up? So while I agree that I too want the ultimate wax that made my car shine like new for years, the reality is that any wax that stays on more than a month is likely not going to be at it's peak in appearance and will need to be clayed to remove that dull wax and have new wax applied, cause afterall, we wax to maintain the shine, protecting the paint is nice but that's not on the top of people's mind. So for me, I want a wax that lasts at most, 6-8 weeks, after that I'm not going to happy with the shine and have to re-wax anyway. I don't want a wax like some caranubas that last 2-3 weeks because I don't have time to rewax that often and I don't want a wax that last 3-4 months because that just means I have to remove it before rewaxing creating more work.



Just my 3 cents.
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Some excellent points but here is my take on longevity.



No wax or sealant prevents the dulling effects you are speaking about - micromarring and its effects on optics.



These paint visual problems (optics) or elimination of such can only be kept in check by meticulous surface care between waxing/sealing sessions.



This task is in the hands of the vehicle's washer, QD'er and duster. If the micromarring you are referring to is kept to a minimum by careful paint care (i.e proper washing technique, never QD'ing a dirty or dusty finish, parking away from trees and sprinklers whenever possible, etc), the longevity of the wax/sealant's performance can be very important for those with multiple vehicles, tight time schedules, family life ;), long winters, hot summers, extreme pollen seasons, etc.



The longevity I am speaking about goes beyond beading and another protection feature here at Autopia - slickness . Longevity for me also includes most paramont - appearance.



My protectant of choice (Zaino system) delivers this. Zaino gives me the freedom to just wash meticulously and add some protection and appearance boost with products like Z6 or Z8 after each wash.

Zaino allows me to be refrain from unnecessary QD'ing to boost appearance between washing. My sealed finish seems to retain. that just wash appearance seemingly to the next wash.

Most important is the choice/option to add additional protection at 2 weeks, 1 month or if necessary several months down the road.:cool:
 
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