M105/KBM polish drying out 2 soon...

[egoXtension]

I had better success today...

After priming the pad the right way, and using the D/A on orbit only the dust was greatly reduced, the polish did not "flash" in 30 seconds and the M105 did a good job correcting some defects. I used plenty of pressure, maybe too much as the hood slightly buckled a couple times and I had to let up.

Used FPII and then a coat of FMJ to finish up

That was the hood only - but on a woodie its the biggest hunk of real estate on the car.

 

[Justin Murphy]

After priming the pad the right way, and using the D/A on orbit only the dust was greatly reduced, the polish did not "flash" in 30 seconds and the M105 did a good job correcting some defects. I used plenty of pressure, maybe too much as the hood slightly buckled a couple times and I had to let up.

Used FPII and then a coat of FMJ to finish up

That was the hood only - but on a woodie its the biggest hunk of real estate on the car.

And is there any pics?
Glad it worked out for you.

 

[gmblack3]

After priming the pad the right way, and using the D/A on orbit only the dust was greatly reduced, the polish did not "flash" in 30 seconds and the M105 did a good job correcting some defects. I used plenty of pressure, maybe too much as the hood slightly buckled a couple times and I had to let up.

Used FPII and then a coat of FMJ to finish up

That was the hood only - but on a woodie its the biggest hunk of real estate on the car.

As far as pressure goes, at a minimum you want the pad to spin slowly CW. If you are stopping the pad from spinning or its spinning CCW, then you are apply too much pressure. Depending on how hard the CC is or how bad the defects are, you may be able to let the pad spin faster with less pressure.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

After priming the pad the right way, and using the D/A on orbit only the dust was greatly reduced, the polish did not "flash" in 30 seconds and the M105 did a good job correcting some defects. I used plenty of pressure, maybe too much as the hood slightly buckled a couple times and I had to let up.

Used FPII and then a coat of FMJ to finish up

That was the hood only - but on a woodie its the biggest hunk of real estate on the car.

He shoots.....

He SCORES!!!!

 

[imported_Luster]

After priming the pad the right way, and using the D/A on orbit only the dust was greatly reduced, the polish did not "flash" in 30 seconds and the M105 did a good job correcting some defects. I used plenty of pressure, maybe too much as the hood slightly buckled a couple times and I had to let up.

Used FPII and then a coat of FMJ to finish up

That was the hood only - but on a woodie its the biggest hunk of real estate on the car.

Good job, Dave! It just takes practice. :thumbup:

One other point.... Different makes of cars have different paint hardness, therefore they need more or less pressure applied to remove swirls.

Every car I polish is a little different from the last!

 

[egoXtension]

As far as pressure goes, at a minimum you want the pad to spin slowly CW. If you are stopping the pad from spinning or its spinning CCW, then you are apply too much pressure.

Hi Bryan - I am using the Makita 6040...on forced rotate/orbit or orbit-only its not easy to bog down the tool. At least on the hood panel, I couldnt stop the pad as the metal tryed to buckle with pressure.

:huh: As for the pad spinning in two directions CW or CCW I dont know if I could tell, I figured the pad just spun in one directon :huh:

I appreciate all the encouragement from the board. :cornut:

It was cloudy and getting late when I took these so not sure if they are very revealing. Couple spots arent as crisp reflections, not sure why. Need to shoot more in better light, then you will see the stone chips too. lol. :cursing:

 

[Justin Murphy]

As far as pressure goes, at a minimum you want the pad to spin slowly CW. If you are stopping the pad from spinning or its spinning CCW, then you are apply too much pressure. Depending on how hard the CC is or how bad the defects are, you may be able to let the pad spin faster with less pressure.

I've read a lot of what you've talked about with the pad spin. I actually backed the pressure off so the pad would spin more. Guess what? Correction went up. I think, like you've said before, this is a case by case situation. Every clear coat is different. I do believe though, pad spin is just as important as pressure. It's a learning curve. Thanks.

 

[gmblack3]

Hi Bryan - I am using the Makita 6040...on forced rotate/orbit or orbit-only its not easy to bog down the tool. At least on the hood panel, I couldnt stop the pad as the metal tryed to buckle with pressure.

:huh: As for the pad spinning in two directions CW or CCW I dont know if I could tell, I figured the pad just spun in one directon :huh:

Hood looks great!!!

With a PC you can actually apply enough pressure to make the pad stop spinning.

If you apply more pressure the pad will spin backwards or CCW.

As I noted above neither one is ideal. The more pressure you apply the more micromarring you will leave.