Let me get this straight (menzerna)

TH0001 said:
Is this by rotary or portercable? What are you goals?



If by PC you can get away with SIP/106ff...



If by rotary you may want to get IP/FPII because the results will be as good (but you may need an additional application of the IP) but you will not have the problems that SIP/106ff can give you on occassion.



As far as the Menzerna finishing polishes go here is my take:



PO106ff Nano Polish- Nice cut and amazingly glossy/sharp finish. Will act up on soft or"sticky" paints randomly and can mask or fill defects. Works very well as a finishing polish on harder paints an can double as a corrective polish as well.



PO85u Final Polish- Very wet polish that will provide very nice finishing on all paints. 106 has more "bite" on extermely hard clear coats but PO85u will provide more cut on medium to softer paints. Amazing on single stage paints as well.



PO85rd Final Finish- Works very similar to PO85u in terms of spreading and slickness. Doesn't have the bite to do any correction IMO, but is a beautiful jeweling polish that will sharpen reflections, increase gloss, and make sure holograms are removed. While some might consider it an extra (and not necessary) step after 106ff, I have found that PO85rd seems to sharpen the already amazing finish left by 106ff, and wards off any unwanted pad abrasions that many have experienced returning (with 106ff)



PO87mc MicroPolish (Final Polish II)- Another amazing finishing polish from Menzerna. Perfect on softer paints or when jeweling the paint for amazing gloss. Slightly less cut then PO85rd, PO87mc makes a perfect finisher on soft and finicky (or "sticky") paint.
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Excellent information! :spot
 
so since this will be done with a rotary I should probably just stick to intensive polish and fpII, assuming that fpII will also get rid of any holograms as would the normal "final polish". And from there just do multiple coats or adjust cutting capability via different pads, and then top with whatever. Sounds like a plan!
 
I'm also an SIP/106FF user and it works perfectly. Another alternative, since you mentioned having Ultrafina, is to use SIP/Ultrafina. Depending on the humidity and heat where you are the Ultrafina is as good as 106FF but doesn't dust. I've found myself using Ultrafina instead of 106FF, except when it's a really hard (cermiclear) paint...still need 106FF for that. Also, the Ultrafina is cheaper.



Anyhow, there's no need for FPII also. If you looking for a really spectacular finish and the time it takes doesn't matter, then use SIP/106ff or UF and then a glaze (I like Danase Wet Glaze best) followed by a Carnauba (if black or red) or a sealant (if light color) as your LSP.



That's my opinion and the method I use. Good luck.
 
IMO you folks finishing out with the 106FF oughta spring for the additional burnishing/jeweling step with a finer polish.



Dunno just how helpful/relevent this will be but: My (carbon metallic) Denali XL was previously detailed (by somebody *very* good who's a member here) with the final polishing being with the 106FF. Being me, I redid it and I noticed that my 1Z High Gloss (via Cyclo with the white Cyclo finishing pads) left a noticeably better finish than the 106FF. I followed that with 1Z WaxPolishSoft (which I'd call a combo glaze/finishing polish and which I'd guess has as little cut as the FPII) and it sure looks a lot better than it did with the 106FF as the penultimate step. I'd previously thought that the 476S LSP just wasn't right for that paint, but now I see it was the 106FF that left me wanting more.



So *just IMO* when you think the 106FF has things as nice as they can get, doing another step just might surprise you.
 
I just ordered IP and FPII for the time being. Down the road however im sure ill be looking for something to add to that selection. Which direction would you go? Would you get a more abbrassive compund/polish or another fine jeweling polish? Would you stick with menzerna or go to 3m, megs., etc.?
 
Accumulator said:
IMO you folks finishing out with the 106FF oughta spring for the additional burnishing/jeweling step with a finer polish.



Dunno just how helpful/relevent this will be but: My (carbon metallic) Denali XL was previously detailed (by somebody *very* good who's a member here) with the final polishing being with the 106FF. Being me, I redid it and I noticed that my 1Z High Gloss (via Cyclo with the white Cyclo finishing pads) left a noticeably better finish than the 106FF. I followed that with 1Z WaxPolishSoft (which I'd call a combo glaze/finishing polish and which I'd guess has as little cut as the FPII) and it sure looks a lot better than it did with the 106FF as the penultimate step. I'd previously thought that the 476S LSP just wasn't right for that paint, but now I see it was the 106FF that left me wanting more.



So *just IMO* when you think the 106FF has things as nice as they can get, doing another step just might surprise you.
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It really is amazing how much better you can get "perfect" clear coat to look with a little (or alot :) ) more work.



jbone said:
I just ordered IP and FPII for the time being. Down the road however im sure ill be looking for something to add to that selection. Which direction would you go? Would you get a more abbrassive compund/polish or another fine jeweling polish? Would you stick with menzerna or go to 3m, megs., etc.?
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You're gonna need all of the above at some point. You'll find yourself needing more cut than IP fairly soon, I'll bet. You'll also find yourself really wishing your finishing polish had enough umph to remove holograms and/or light imperfections. FPII's not gonna do that.
 
I agree with almost everything that has been said here. I definitely agree that IP/FP/FPII have taken a back seat to SIP and 106ff, which is a shame, since FP/FPII in particular are such good polishes. I find myself finishing with FPII more and more lately; there is a definitely improvement over the finish of 106ff, even on already "clean" paint.



One question for you guys, just wondering if your experience mimics mine; but I've always found SIP to cut much better than IP. In fact I'd say IP is my least used Meznerna polish (between SIP, IP, 106, 85rd, fp, and fpii). Unless SIP is acting funny (which it will sometimes do!), I rarely use IP instead of it. In fact, I find it's the only menzerna product to have a bad cut to finish ratio (in the sense than it leaves a finish that is worse than you would expect from its cut). If SIP is acting up I normally grab another polish, like #83, #80, 1Z intesiv, etc...all better than IP, imo.
 
Picus said:
I agree with almost everything that has been said here. I definitely agree that IP/FP/FPII have taken a back seat to SIP and 106ff, which is a shame, since FP/FPII in particular are such good polishes. I find myself finishing with FPII more and more lately; there is a definitely improvement over the finish of 106ff, even on already "clean" paint.



One question for you guys, just wondering if your experience mimics mine; but I've always found SIP to cut much better than IP. In fact I'd say IP is my least used Meznerna polish (between SIP, IP, 106, 85rd, fp, and fpii). Unless SIP is acting funny (which it will sometimes do!), I rarely use IP instead of it. In fact, I find it's the only menzerna product to have a bad cut to finish ratio (in the sense than it leaves a finish that is worse than you would expect from its cut). If SIP is acting up I normally grab another polish, like #83, #80, 1Z intesiv, etc...all better than IP, imo.
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Yup. I haven't used any IP in a long time. I either grab a different polish when SIP acts up, or just add some 106 to it and keep going.
 
Oh I forgot to add I also already have 3m perfect it 3000 swirl remover 06064. Ive never used it but where does that fit in?
 
I find ultrafina to be more equivalent to FPII. Very little cut, very good gloss, little to no filling. 106 has more cut, a little less gloss, and will fill if you don't correct everything.
 
Picus said:
I find ultrafina to be more equivalent to FPII. Very little cut, very good gloss, little to no filling. 106 has more cut, a little less gloss, and will fill if you don't correct everything.
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OK, mark the time and date.... This being the very first ocassion that I *disagree* with Picus!!! :D



I've been able to get Ultrafina to do about as much correction/compound clean up as 106FF, where as I can't get FPII to correct grams (or anything else, really) at all. On harder paints, then 106 wins over UF.



I've used UF to clean up after M105 and 95 quite successfully, while the FPII just whimpered in it's bottle.
 
It's possible I just don't have enough experience with UF. I've only used it a handful of times. 106ff does seem to have the most cut of the three for me, anyway. It leaves the worst finish of the three two (although worst is a relative term, it's still normally a pretty darn good finish).



I wouldn't even have thought to use UF after 105. I've tried 106 after 105 and so far have always needed SIP in between. Of course "so far" is only like 5 or 6 cars.
 
jbone said:
Oh I forgot to add I also already have 3m perfect it 3000 swirl remover 06064. Ive never used it but where does that fit in?
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**NOTING THAT I HAVEN'T USED ANY OF THESE PRODUCTS**



AFAIK, the 06064 is the PI-3000 replacement for the old (and IMO superb) PI-III MG 05937. The guys in the 3M video make some slips where they even *refer* to the 06064 as "Machine Glaze"...old habits die hard I guess :D



AFAIK, the 06064 is along the lines of the 106FF. It's for use *after* the RC level of correction; it's for doing light correction (e.g., buffer swirls, nasty holograms, very minor other marring) that's too much for a finishing polish. If/when you find the Ultrafina is just too mild for a given task, the 06064 is the 3M stuff to use instead.
 
So the 06064 could be the middleman between the IP and FPII without having to go get another polish to go between those two?



Sorry I have two threads that have basically gone the same direction and Im finding myself asking these questions in both.:o
 
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