Is 4 oz of polish enough?

Bert

Active member
I was looking around at Excel Detailing and noticed they sold some 4 oz bottles of Optimum Compound and Poli-Sealant. I realize you only use a nickel size dab at a time but but when each time only covers a 2 foot by 2 foot area, that is quite a few nickel size dabs before the car is complete.



If 4 oz is enough, than great!! That gives my a chance to try it and then move on to experiment with another brand.
 
I used about 3 oz doing a '06TL. And I think I used too much. So personally I think 4oz is plenty. Also, don't hesitate to order from Patrick from Excel. Amazing guy and company!! A+++ in my book. I'm about to order 2 dozen MF's from him. :D
 
I am not sure, but I know with optimium products you use 2 pea sized dabs instead of nickles, so you definatly need less than the other products
 
Danny318 said:
I am not sure, but I know with optimium products you use 2 pea sized dabs instead of nickles, so you definatly need less than the other products





Oh, then 4 oz should be MORE than enough. What about the first time apply optimum products to the pad? I seams like the pad would absorb the 2 pea sized dabs. On your first time applying, would you want to put a "circle" around the pad to make up for the pad absorbing some? Or would that be waaay too much?
 
Yes, first time, you'll want to either make a "X" or a circle of product. Once the pad becomes primed, a few dots per panel works very well.
 
mikebai1990 said:
Yes, first time, you'll want to either make a "X" or a circle of product. Once the pad becomes primed, a few dots per panel works very well.



agreed. O <--- that around the pad first, and then a few after ----> :
 
mikebai1990 said:
Yes, first time, you'll want to either make a "X" or a circle of product. Once the pad becomes primed, a few dots per panel works very well.



Based upon that, it sounds like 4 oz will be plenty for a average size car.
 
BigAl3 said:
agreed. O <--- that around the pad first, and then a few after ----> :



Interesting. It surprises me that a few little dots are enought to correct a 2' X 2' area.
 
bert31 said:
Based upon that, it sounds like 4 oz will be plenty for a average size car.



More like 2-3 at least. A 32 oz bottle of Optimum Polish last me 4-6 months easy, and I use it pretty regularly.
 
Scottwax said:
More like 2-3 at least. A 32 oz bottle of Optimum Polish last me 4-6 months easy, and I use it pretty regularly.



I thought you used Optimum Poli-Seal rather than Optimum Polish since it allows you to combine your Finish Polish and AIO steps into one?



So I guess there are times when you want to use a pure finish polish rather than a polish/sealant combo?
 
Scottwax said:
More like 2-3 at least. A 32 oz bottle of Optimum Polish last me 4-6 months easy, and I use it pretty regularly.



On a side note, how do you "work in" Optimum Polish versus Optimum Poli-Seal versus Jeff's Prime or Prime Strong?



Since Optimum Polish and Poli-Seal have abrasives in them (I assume Poli-Seal has abrasives in it), I would assume both would need to be worked in like normal polishes, ie keep going over the spot with a UDM for 3 - 5 minutes until the polish is translucent meaning it is broken down. Or does Poli-Seal not need to be worked in so much since it is a polish/sealant combo?



As far as Prime and Prime Strong go, neither have abrasives and therefore do not need to be worked in near as intensely as a typical polish? Or does Prime Strong have abrasives in it and it needs to be worked in?
 
stiffdogg06 said:
Also, don't hesitate to order from Patrick from Excel. Amazing guy and company!! A+++ in my book. I'm about to order 2 dozen MF's from him. :D



agreed, my order should be coming in within a few days! :D
 
bert31 said:
Interesting. It surprises me that a few little dots are enought to correct a 2' X 2' area.



when i first started i kept applying a circle after every panel and my pad got too saturated, and not to mention if the pad is too saturated with product, the pad can't do it's work to it's fullest potential (though many clean the pad every few panels or so). after you've put a circle around the pad for the first initial pass or two (basically primed now), i put 3 dots in a triangle fashion and it's enough to work in without being too little or too much product...
 
bert31 said:
I thought you used Optimum Poli-Seal rather than Optimum Polish since it allows you to combine your Finish Polish and AIO steps into one?



So I guess there are times when you want to use a pure finish polish rather than a polish/sealant combo?



I use OP when I need more polishing power than OPS. If I am stepping down from Optimum Compound, I can usually go to OPS instead of using OP to remove any light hazing I might get from a more aggressive polish/pad combo. Sometimes OPS isn't enough though so I have to step up to OP.



AIO type products don't do much correction so there really isn't any need to work them in for very long. Most of them clear out nicely within a few moderate pressure passes on 6. Polishes and compounds have to be worked longer under more pressure and moving the PC, UDM or Cyclo about 1" per second with 50% overlapping passes.
 
Scottwax said:
I use OP when I need more polishing power than OPS. If I am stepping down from Optimum Compound, I can usually go to OPS instead of using OP to remove any light hazing I might get from a more aggressive polish/pad combo. Sometimes OPS isn't enough though so I have to step up to OP.



After using OC, is there an easy way to tell if you need to use OP versus OPS? Or is that what 13 years of experience tells you? I ask because I assume my being a newb, I will not have the experience to know whether I can bypass OP and go directly to OPS. I guess to be on the safe side, I should use OP.
 
Scottwax said:
I use OP when I need more polishing power than OPS. If I am stepping down from Optimum Compound, I can usually go to OPS instead of using OP to remove any light hazing I might get from a more aggressive polish/pad combo. Sometimes OPS isn't enough though so I have to step up to OP.



AIO type products don't do much correction so there really isn't any need to work them in for very long. Most of them clear out nicely within a few moderate pressure passes on 6. Polishes and compounds have to be worked longer under more pressure and moving the PC, UDM or Cyclo about 1" per second with 50% overlapping passes.





Scottwax, how often do you use Optimum Hypercompound? That must be for SERIOUS paint damage I assume?
 
bert31 said:
After using OC, is there an easy way to tell if you need to use OP versus OPS? Or is that what 13 years of experience tells you? I ask because I assume my being a newb, I will not have the experience to know whether I can bypass OP and go directly to OPS. I guess to be on the safe side, I should use OP.



It should be obvious visually if you can step all the way down to OPS. OHC is for major defects.
 
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