Hi-Temp CUT / OP ... PC??

yoojeankim said:
no answers?
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Yes it will work with a pc, but takes longer to work in. Also note that it can and will gum up your pad after a few panels.



I recommend HT Heavy cut for the pc.
 
yoojeankim said:
i know its a good mix for the rotary ...



but does it work good with the PC?
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I use it with PC, it works great imo, I use it on speed 6 and since you are using OP you can work the polish longer. Hope this helps
 
martinager said:
Yes it will work with a pc, but takes longer to work in. Also note that it can and will gum up your pad after a few panels.



I recommend HT Heavy cut for the pc.
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i tihnk if you sprits QD on the pad or panel it might help from gumming it up? I had 3m PI 39002 gum up on me... didn't like it.
 
hm... if im mixing* 50/50... would i need to polish after this process? or just go on to wax?



whoops i meant mixing*
 
yoojeankim said:
hm... if im missing 50/50... would i need to polish after this process? or just go on to wax?
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The htec/op finishes down real well, if you are using it on a dark colored vehicle and you might have to use a finishing polish, or go over the car using OP it self.
 
yoojeankim said:
htec/op . can it be broken down easily with 4 speed?
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they said that HTEC is pretty hard to break down by pc already, so i'm guessing that 4 won't cut it. My stock of OP and HTEC and HC is here today, and i have a detailing job on a black 98 bmw m3, so i'll try my products on there and see how it works by itself. Until then i would say crank it up to 5.5-6 AT LEAST in order for the products to properly break down. Don't be affraid to really push on the PC because friction is the only way you'll generate heat to get it to break down. PC's chance to screw up your paint is minimal, even if you leave it there for 5 mins in 1 spot.



Good luck! :2thumbs:
 
artikxscout said:
they said that HTEC is pretty hard to break down by pc already, so i'm guessing that 4 won't cut it. My stock of OP and HTEC and HC is here today, and i have a detailing job on a black 98 bmw m3, so i'll try my products on there and see how it works by itself. Until then i would say crank it up to 5.5-6 AT LEAST in order for the products to properly break down. Don't be affraid to really push on the PC because friction is the only way you'll generate heat to get it to break down. PC's chance to screw up your paint is minimal, even if you leave it there for 5 mins in 1 spot.



Good luck! :2thumbs:
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No such thing as 5.5 on the PC. Only 5 and 6!



I've been wanting to try the mix out for a while now, since everyone is getting fabulous results.
 
Actually just got around to ordering some HTEC today. Gonna give it a try hopefully by this weekend on a possible detail...
 
I have been using HTHCL for a couple of years now and it's a wonderful product but it's not my everyday polish nor is it the first one I reach for. So am wondering why I see more and more threads for people using the HTECL?



And what does "Hi-temp Cut / OP ... PC" mean anyway?
 
welll the HTEC/OP mix was usually used by rotary ppl



i was wondering if the pc used it and if they were getting wonderful results as well
 
MorBid said:
I have been using HTHCL for a couple of years now and it's a wonderful product but it's not my everyday polish nor is it the first one I reach for. So am wondering why I see more and more threads for people using the HTECL?



And what does "Hi-temp Cut / OP ... PC" mean anyway?
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I too wondered which H-T product he was referring to :nixweiss but as best I can tell he's talking about mixing some Optimum with H-T Extreme or Heavy Cut Leveler to increase the working time and he plans to use this mix by PC.



People have been using the two H-T levelers (EC and HC) by PC and it supposedly works fine, given a long enough work time (so it breaks down).



I used H-T EC mixed with a little 1Z Ultra by PC with a 4" orange pad and it worked fine at speed 5 (became unstable at speed 6 :nixweiss ).



I'd sure plan on following up with a milder product, I did and I was using it on GM Pewter metallic.



Also, I wouldn't mix them 50:50, IMO that'd dilute the H-T too much and compromise its cut. I'd just add enough OCP to increase the work time; I added just a few dabs of the 1Z and it was all I needed.



Seems like more and more people are trying to find aggressive combos to use with the PC...OK...as long as it's really needed and not too often. Excepting the occasional RIDS, I hope people are correcting the paint once and then just keeping it from getting all marred up again. Once a year with a mild polish oughta be plenty, more than that- something's wrong somewhere.



And *somebody's* gonna mess up their paint with this aggressive stuff, I just know it. Hey, I'm not new at this and I messed up the MPV with just 3M 05933 on a mild 4" pad. Gotta watch that "just a little more.." mindset ;)
 
Accumulator:



Yeah I get it now. When I need to use HCL with my rotary, I'm at rpms >=1400 and while the label on the bottle says if can be used by hand or a dual head RO I've never tried using it with a PC. I'm guessing your right it that it would take a long time to break down given the lack of heat.



That being said though, any polish/compound that can take out heavy oxidation, etching or down to 800 grit scratches should be used sparringly.



I guess in my mind I was wondering what type of correction was needed that someone would go to ECL with a PC? Seems the two don't add up.



MorBid
 
MorBid said:
... any polish/compound that can take out heavy oxidation, etching or down to 800 grit scratches should be used sparringly.



I guess in my mind I was wondering what type of correction was needed that someone would go to ECL with a PC? Seems the two don't add up..
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I'm guessing that people would rather try an aggressive product by PC than a milder approach by rotary. Perhaps just because they only have the PC.



I'll admit that I often use a variation on the same approach myself- I'd rather use the Cyclo with something a little aggressive than the rotary with something milder, just a personal preference.



FWIW, I find the H-T claims about what the EC leveler can do (scratch-grit-wise) to be a bit optimistic, it just doesn't seem that aggressive to me. I used it (straight, not mixed with anything after first trying the EC/Ultra combo) at ~1500 rpms with an orange pad on the hood of my beater-Blazer; the marring didn't come out so after a few passes I decided to live with it. Said marring wasn't all *that* bad IMO and I was a little surprised the EC didn't take it right out :nixweiss
 
Interesting. I've used HCL w/LC Orange Pad for something like heavy wash swirls and maybe some water spots. If I'n not mistaken the LC organge pad is a light cutting pad and as such I only use it for that. If I have a scratch I need to level and the orange pad isn't cutting it I'll step up to a yellow (medium cut) or maybe a wool pad.
 
MorBid said:
.. If I have a scratch I need to level and the orange pad isn't cutting it I'll step up to a yellow (medium cut) or maybe a wool pad.
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Yeah, that's similar to what I do, though I've never tried a wool pad with the Makita, hoping I never need to but [stuff] does happen..



I was leery of getting out a yellow pad for the rotary on the Blazer as it showed evidence of extremely aggressive (prior) compounding. Why do people cut off a bunch of paint and then just mar it up again :mad: :rolleyes:
 
Yep, you gotta be careful. I may at some time or another try HCL with a PC but to be honest I've never gotten any polish to work with that thing. I guess I don't have the patience. You sorta have to un-learn what you know about machine polishing and re-learn another method.
 
MorBid said:
.. to be honest I've never gotten any polish to work with [the PC].... You sorta have to un-learn what you know about machine polishing and re-learn another method.
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Yeah, I can only get it do do decent correction by using 4" pads; I know some people here work miracles with it, but not me :nixweiss
 
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