help using poorboys ssr2!!!

R

renton

New member
hi ive just been trying out my new poorboys ssr2 on bits of my car and cant really notice any difference between bits ive done and bits i havent done!!! (under a flurescant street light)

im using a brand new terry applicator to apply it by hand and a mf to buff it off !

is there a recommended way of applying and removing ssr2 to get rid of swirls or do i have to polish the area afterwards to notice its affects????



please help i want a shiny car!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Your question is a bit vague...



How heavy are the swirls if there are any? What type of condition is the paint in? Evaluating your paint surface is another key factor in determining your course of action to produce great shine.



If your swirling is heavy you may need a stronger product or they may be too deep for removal by hand.



If you don't have access to other products just increase your speed and aggressiveness and see if that helps. If anything, you'll get a good workout.
 
I'm sorry, but are you saying you're putting it on with a terry towel, and then buffing it off?



You're not just wiping on/off, are you? You need to work the product in, which is why a machine polisher is reccomended. I haven't had the best luck with SSR2, but I've only used it 2 or 3 times.



This kind of question is easily answered in David's e-book, or a quick search.



Good luck.
 
what i actually do is apply ssr2 to my terry applicator and rub this into the paint work quite hard and fast!! and then polish off the excess with a clean microfibre?? is this right ??

do ilet it dry before buffing off or not ??

the car is a 2002 passat in metallic inky blue. real nice colour when clean but its covered in spiderwebbmarks/swirlmarks in the paint as the previous owner put it through a car wash all the time and never polished/waxed it!!
 
Whoah.. without seeing pictures it's almost guaranteed that you need a heavier abrasive, like ssr2.5 or 3. You probably won't be able to get out all of it by hand.
 
When the SSR starts to dust you know that the product is all used up. Look at the results and work in more if needed. Also if you are applying by hand make sure you're not applying the products using circles. Rather apply using a up down, left right technique. (ie. if you're doing the hood start at the windshield area and pull towards the front of the car. and side panels start up then down). I had trouble with my ssr2.5, best thing to do is if you think you're done with the product try to wipe it away. If it smudges you need to continue to work the product. Hope this helps.
 
raymond your car looks well mint in your gallery pics by the way !!

the picture you have of your roof before polishing is a bit like the finish on my passat only the passat is slightly worse if you catch my drift!!

when the car is out in the normal sunlight it looks brilliant but under a strret light and getting real close to the paint you can notice the spiderswebb effect!!

do ineed to keep at it then as i know im not gonna get perfect results by hand on the first application!
 
chipps i was applying ssr in a circular motion and it was never drying and going dusty so does this mean i need to keep on rubbing it in then??

it was about about 5degrees c though so that might have sommat to do with it!!!
 
renton,



keep rubbing in the product until it starts dusting. You'll see the difference, and I even feel the difference when applying by hand. When you use SSR2 you're actually cutting the top coat (not too sure if that's the right wording). So if you wipe it off prior to dusting the cutting has not finished. When applying by hand, any products, they should never be applied in a circular motion. on horizontal surfaces (ie hood, roof, trunk.) apply using the side to side motion. All vertical surfaces (ie. doors fenders) should be applied up down. Not too sure if I explained it well enough, hard to describe, easier to see.



Before applying, mist the applicator with water, then apply ssr. Let me know if you have any other questions.



Also, not too sure if the weather plays a major factor with the ssr, but from my own experience any extreme condition, whether it be cold, hot, humid , will effect how the product works.
 
renton said:
raymond your car looks well mint in your gallery pics by the way !!

the picture you have of your roof before polishing is a bit like the finish on my passat only the passat is slightly worse if you catch my drift!!
Click to expand...



Thank you for the compliment. :) If your passat is about equal or worse than my roof in my gallery, then you'll need a heavier abrasive than ssr2. I used 3M finesse-it II machine polish using a cutting pad with a PC. the machine polish's aggressiveness approaches that of 2.5.



If you were to do it by hand, i'd suggest doing sections at a time.. maybe one week you can work on half the hood, and the next week the other half, etc. Be sure to take your vitamins and have plenty of energy drinks on hand!



-Raymond
 
yes i agree with many of the previous posts....it sounds like you have not thoroughly worked the product in and out of the finish. It should almost dissapear and have very little to wipe off when you are done rubbing an area. Also from what you describe, you need to move up to something a little bit more aggressive as mentioned by others. One last note here....do not dampen pads or cloths before using , prime the pad / applicator with a little more product instead.:)
 
thanks for the input fellas !!! i will persevere with ssr2 for the time been as i dont think iwas applying it properly so i will give it another go !!!! ust out of interes should i use ssr2 after ive clay bar'd or after ive used my megs paint cleaner ???
 
renton said:
chipps i was applying ssr in a circular motion and it was never drying and going dusty so does this mean i need to keep on rubbing it in then??

it was about about 5degrees c though so that might have sommat to do with it!!!
Click to expand...



Product Directional Application:

Polish- these products contain abrasives and should be applied in straight-line motions (Forget what Mr. Miyagi was teaching the Karate Kid) circular motions will cause circular directional marks (swirl marks)



Sealant, Glaze or Wax- these products are all non-abrasive so direction of application wonâ€â„¢t cause directional marks to the surface.



Optimising light refraction -apply product in â€Ëœdirection of airflowâ€â„¢, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising the surface light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle

JonM
 
TOGWT said:




Optimising light refraction -apply product in â€Ëœdirection of airflowâ€â„¢, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising the surface light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle

JonM
Click to expand...



Now I'm cofused, I recall reading that you go " up down" on vertical surfaces, and now you're saying "front to back". ??:nixweiss
 
Ehh.. If you really had to swirl the car, I've always thought that up and down on vertical surfaces made more sense. I've always thought that it wouldn't matter what direction you polished as long as your surface and pads are clean.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top