HELP-Can't beat the swirls !

J

JSFM35X

Active member
I have tried 2 different lines of products and I cannot get my car swirl free. Looking for correction of 90% or better. Car is 2008 Infiniti M35X Black. If you can help talk me through it, I will be your best friend!:cry:



Today

Wash dawn

Clay PB Clay w/Lube (Car wash n H2o)

rewash dawn

Dry with leaf blower finish with PB WW



First:

SSR2.5 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

SSR1 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

Still swirls under halogen:surrender



Next:

M105 white Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

M205 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

Still Swirls:confused:



Now what?



I know you need to work the PB stuff until its almost gone, what about M105 and 205?



How slowly do you need to move the flex over the paint?



I just put the car away in the garage. I will try again in the early mornng with a clear head. Any advice or liniks to video's would be appreciated. Do I need to move to an orange pad? I was told by many at the detailing weekend that my car was in good shape and that all that was needed was minor correction.



I guess it could be me. I might be a moron. That is how I feel. I used to enjoy taking care of the car, but not I am not enjoying it !:wall
 
Does your infiniti have the soft paint or the hard?



are you leaving buffer trails or not putting a dent in the original scratches?



you need to start with a 50/50 and find out what is or is not happening.
 
you might need an orange pad or light wool, then follow with a finer polish.



For the 105, prime the pad, then spread and work a small area. Spritz with water and work until transparent. See how that works out for ya.
 
Polished&Waxed said:
Does your infiniti have the soft paint or the hard?



are you leaving buffer trails or not putting a dent in the original scratches?



you need to start with a 50/50 and find out what is or is not happening.
Click to expand...



I have no idea if its soft or hard. The paint is getting deeper can blacker but not swirl free.
 
Just don't do anything stupid (e.g., keeping the buffer in one spot for an extended period of time), and you'll be fine.



I used to be terrified of more aggressive pads like orange when I started; now, that's how I usually start all my details, lol. Just be smart and you'll be okay.
 
JSFM35X said:
I have tried ..



M105 white Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)

M205 White Pad (Flex Spread 2 work at 5)
Click to expand...



Yeah, use a more aggressive pad with the M105, at least for the initial correction.



DO NOT spread at 2. Set it on 5, put the polisher's pad against the paint, and pull the trigger. Do it all on 5.

I know you need to work the PB stuff until its almost gone, what about M105 and 205?
Click to expand...



Do maybe ~6 passes across a smallish area. Stop, and see how it's going. You want to keep at it until either the marring is gone or the polish starts to dry out, but no longer (on either account).

How slowly do you need to move the flex over the paint?
Click to expand...



Fairly slowly, but no so much so that the orange pad heats things up too much. *GENERALLY* I'd say slower is better, but I've never tried counting seconds or anything like that. Don't go so slowly that the paint gets too hot or the polish at the start (of the area of operation) starts to flash before you get back to it.



After trying six, you might try eight or so. I seldom do more than that with M105.



Do I need to move to an orange pad?
Click to expand...



Sure sounds like it. Or a PFW pad. Or many more passes with the white and/or more pressure. Or a Griot's orange pad (in-between regular orange and white, very very good with M205 too). But I'd just use the (regular) orange for most of the work. Not pre-spreading the product oughta help.



Also, *do* use the IPA wipe. M105/M205 can leave a lot of oils on the surface.



Try a QD-spritz before buffing off the M105 residue, it'll help minimize micromarring (as the abrasives don't break down but the lubricating oils dissipate). Then IPA, then inspect.



Again, work *small* areas. Work one area until the M105 gets things quite nice, then more on. Plan on it taking longer than you'd like ;)

I was told by many at the detailing weekend that my car was in good shape and that all that was needed was minor correction.
Click to expand...



Ya just never know until you start to do it, and "minor correction" is an easy answer that can mean "no need to wetsand" or "just a quick jeweling" or anything in-between.



I guess it could be me. I might be a moron. That is how I feel. I used to enjoy taking care of the car, but not I am not enjoying it !:wall
Click to expand...



IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.



And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing :(



Please don't let this happen to you.



You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.



On the bright side, the Flex/M105-M205 combo oughta lead to a *LOT* less frustration than a whole lotta other approaches. There *is* still a learning curve and it's just not as steep as anybody would like, but you'll get there eventually. And with any luck it won't take all *that* long.



See how the above advice works out and post back for clarification.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, use a more aggressive pad with the M105, at least for the initial correction.



DO NOT spread at 2. Set it on 5, put the polisher's pad against the paint, and pull the trigger. Do it all on 5.





Do maybe ~6 passes across a smallish area. Stop, and see how it's going. You want to keep at it until either the marring is gone or the polish starts to dry out, but no longer (on either account).





Fairly slowly, but no so much so that the orange pad heats things up too much. *GENERALLY* I'd say slower is better, but I've never tried counting seconds or anything like that. Don't go so slowly that the paint gets too hot or the polish at the start (of the area of operation) starts to flash before you get back to it.



After trying six, you might try eight or so. I seldom do more than that with M105.







Sure sounds like it. Or a PFW pad. Or many more passes with the white and/or more pressure. Or a Griot's orange pad (in-between regular orange and white, very very good with M205 too). But I'd just use the (regular) orange for most of the work. Not pre-spreading the product oughta help.



Also, *do* use the IPA wipe. M105/M205 can leave a lot of oils on the surface.



Try a QD-spritz before buffing off the M105 residue, it'll help minimize micromarring (as the abrasives don't break down but the lubricating oils dissipate). Then IPA, then inspect.



Again, work *small* areas. Work one area until the M105 gets things quite nice, then more on. Plan on it taking longer than you'd like ;)





Ya just never know until you start to do it, and "minor correction" is an easy answer that can mean "no need to wetsand" or "just a quick jeweling" or anything in-between.







IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.



And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing :(



Please don't let this happen to you.



You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.



On the bright side, the Flex/M105-M205 combo oughta lead to a *LOT* less frustration than a whole lotta other approaches. There *is* still a learning curve and it's just not as steep as anybody would like, but you'll get there eventually. And with any luck it won't take all *that* long.



See how the above advice works out and post back for clarification.
Click to expand...



Great pep talk. I am going out to hit it again. Sun is jhust off my driveway and I will be at it until I am sucessful or beat!
 
Accumulator said:
IMO this is the "Curse of Autopia" and I'm not kidding. People come here, read about how some of us take vehicles to near-100% (and keep them there) and then start thinking that only *that* is good enough.



And then they find it's not as easy as it looks/sounds. And then they get frustrated and start to wonder if it's just them. And then it can start to spoil the whole car-ownership/hobby thing :(



Please don't let this happen to you.



You're not dumb. You're not being dumb. You're learning a new skill that has a whole lotta variables.
Click to expand...



Man, this ought to be posted in huge block letters at the top of this forum. It is sooooo easy to fall into that trap.



Thanks Accumulator for posting that. A lot of us needed to hear it.
 
Doesnt all the new infiniti's have the self healing paint? Do you think that soft type of paint might be attributing to his problem? I know people as have problems with Infiniti's new "sticky" paint.
 
lasthope05 said:
Doesnt all the new infiniti's have the self healing paint? Do you think that soft type of paint might be attributing to his problem? I know people as have problems with Infiniti's new "sticky" paint.
Click to expand...



My car is a 2008 M35X, as far as i know the only model with the self healing paint is the EX. I had one as a loaner car (black) for a few days while mine (2001 QX4) was getting a ball joint. The EX was swirl city! Self Healing paint+marketing BS. I had the car for a few days and the weekend. Even washed it to see if I could 'See a difference"
 
JSFM35X said:
My car is a 2008 M35X, as far as i know the only model with the self healing paint is the EX. I had one as a loaner car (black) for a few days while mine (2001 QX4) was getting a ball joint. The EX was swirl city! Self Healing paint+marketing BS. I had the car for a few days and the weekend. Even washed it to see if I could 'See a difference"
Click to expand...





Supposedly the self-healing paint can take weeks to months to "heal". Lol - if that's true, then by the time the original marring has healed, it's replaced with ne marring from poor washing, lol.
 
Infiniti black will swirl if you look at it wrong.I have a 2003 g35 coupe in laser red that allmost does the same thing.When i got sick and tired of looking at all the swirls a couple years back i came to this site.



What i would try and it has worked for me is use menzerna sip with a white pad.You may have to do it more then once but it has worked great for me with my Flex Da and then use 106ff on a red or black pad if needed.
 
superchargedg said:
Infiniti black will swirl if you look at it wrong.I have a 2003 g35 coupe in laser red that allmost does the same thing.When i got sick and tired of looking at all the swirls a couple years back i came to this site.



What i would try and it has worked for me is use menzerna sip with a white pad.You may have to do it more then once but it has worked great for me with my Flex Da and then use 106ff on a red or black pad if needed.
Click to expand...





what speed do you work it in with your flex at? 6? i tried flex/white/sip and had marginal success at best.
 
efnfast said:
what speed do you work it in with your flex at? 6? i tried flex/white/sip and had marginal success at best.
Click to expand...



I use it at full speed and if you are using Menzerna products you must make sure they are completely broken down and done as they will leave all the swirls still there if not used correctly.
 
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