Actual surface temperature while buffing/polishing

David Fermani said:
I can see it now, someone making a gadget that straps a paint temp meter to your head that you can point at the surface and a bell could ding when it hits a certain temp. :grinno:
Click to expand...



:think2

:hifive:
 
If someone said the magic # is 195 degrees, can you imagine the mayhem involved with satisfying this new found "knowledge"?
 
I never suggested that the results of the buffing or polishing should be ignored. To say that I don't care about the end result is a really twisted way to make an argument. Better looking and more efficient end results are what I am looking for.



There are millions of variables for every single study/research done on things of this nature(temperatures). Not every one of those "(probably a million or so variables)" are logged. What can realistically be logged is taken into account. Because it is impossible to log every single detail is not a reason not to research. For instance, look up studies done on global warming. They can not log every detail and they are professionals(some are the worlds best). How can you suggest that my request for information on a car's paint is unrealistic?



I think it's clear we don't agree on this. Please, feel free not to feel like you must argue your opinion any more. I understand you completely. You've got thousands of hours doing it the the way you do it. I am sure there is no more you can learn about this subject.



TH0001 said:
There are so many (probably a million or so variables) the would effect your answer that you will find yourself moving backwards by chasing a magic number that likely changes with a .1% change in humidty or if the clearcoat is .000001 of a mil thinner.







Yes I have. My conclusion has been printed in here a couple of times. Focus on the resuts since the tempature is a BY PRODUCT of the work done. For best results focus on the work done not the by products...







Well its not a law, its a very strong hypothesis. To prove it, you spend 3 years comming up with an ideal tempature to work your polish at, then we will get together. At this time we will get together and polish paint. You focus only on achieving a tempature and I will focus on achieving results. See who does the job quicker, more efficently, and probably removes less paint. I hope after years of calculations that the humidty, paint thickness (pre and post swelling) paint system, color, paint, tempature, etc don't change at all.







Fair enough. I am blunt as well so maybe its just the way we are.







The facts are that you are chasing a by-product of the work done when the focus should be the work done itself. Warm enough that hte lubricatents in the polish spread thin and allow the abrasives to work but not so warm that the paint is damaged.







Define research. Speaking to polish makers? Yes.... Speaking with pad makers? Yes..... 1000's and 1000's of hours polishing paint? Yes...











I'm not sure what you are saying. Consider me a small subject of your overall research, I can provide you with the contacts you desire (most who will tell you that I am an expert in this field) but they are likely to echo the same thoughts I have. Then what? You will polish paint for 1000's and 1000's of hours and get now where? Perhaps a doctorate in science or chemical/mechanical engineering will help?
Click to expand...
 
David Fermani said:
If someone said the magic # is 195 degrees, can you imagine the mayhem involved with satisfying this new found "knowledge"?
Click to expand...



I don't think it's my job to satisfy anything for anyone but my clients. I just asked if anyone had any specific data on the subject. If I didn't get any information I want to drum up myself.



What you're suggesting is the same reason TH probably has not got an answer from manufacturers he spoke with. Liability.
 
If temp was a crucial element in product performance, don't you think it would be on the label? It would. I have never seen an "ideal" temp for a polish, on a label or recommended by manufacturers.
 
that's why I have a few different lineups...megs, optimum, menzerna...all three react differently in different temp ranges, humidity ranges, direct sunlight vs. no sunlight, etc.



Jean - I don't think there is a definite answer to your question. I think you are chasing a rabbit that doesn't exist!
 
such a strange question? of course your gonna draw heat when compounding! i mean come'on a pad going in a circular motion against anything will cause heat. with my exsperiance the last thing running threw my mind is hmmmmmmmmm i wonder what tempature the paint is. usally im thinking nothing. i get into such mindset when im compounding im thinking i did it again. i still impressed with what a buffer can do when used correctly each car i do. so many people forget to stick to the basics and always complicate things. i see many people worry about dumbshit yet they don't know the basic 1,2,3 of polishing. ever hear the k.i.s.s phrase. keep it simple stupid! remember this is a passion turned obsession, not a science project! worthless thread!
 
I don't know if Jean-Claude is perhaps really asking "What is the maximum temperature you can work at and still be safe?" Temperature may play a small role in how effective polishing is, but as a beginner, I would like to have an idea at what temperature I should be concerned I might damage the paint. I do not have the years of experience and it would be helpful for me to have an idea of how hot is too hot.



Anybody care to answer this variation of the original question?



Thank you.
 
When polishing you want to keep the paint as cool as possible. A good test is your hand, if where you are correcting the surface is significantly hotter that the surrounding area you have a potential problem. When training someone we use an IR thermometer to help them gage there progression. Generally we obtain a 5-15C raise in surface temp, depending on the pad, and compound used. You never want the surface to get so hot that you are uncomfortable when you touch the surface. Another indication of overheating is "oil canning" meaning the metal moves due to the heat, and makes the sound of an old oil can.
 
The outcome is the goal. Personally, i like to increase surface heat a little, so i can just feel it with my hand. Not including final polish.



As Todd and others have stated it depends on so many factors that if my rotary builds up too much heat, I will change a product or technique.



Unless you are doing old single stage paint and trying to flow scratches or the Ming process, which isn't possible with today's paint, heat is not needed.



This approach has served me well for 20 years.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top