Bill D
Hooked For Life
MorBid said:
Yeah, I'm waitng for Irene or Rob to carry the entire line.
4" pads...what did I do wrong
- Thread starter Bill87GN
- Start date
Yeah, I'm waitng for Irene or Rob to carry the entire line.
Thanks for the info guys. Yup it is a repaint but it's 2 years old. The bubble happened on fiberglass if that makes a diff. The area was very hot to the touch too. Probably all my fault, but whatever. Can't do anything about it now. I will go back and try PI-III and the orange pad
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Ah, fiberglass may react differently under heat generated by polishing than metal. Perhaps that and the re paint contributed to the bubbling. :nixweiss
On the bubbling, I've managed to generate some surprising heat with a PC, but never a bubble. High speed, cutting pad, SSR2.5, moderately heavy pressure, hot outside, slow passes will heat things up quite a bit. Paint comes off fairly quick too... when things get hot with a PC. 
Mikeman out.
Mikeman out.
imported_animes2k
New member
The worst I've done with the PC@6, SSR2.5, 4" SFX1 cutting pad is to heat the clear up enough to soften it and leave soft, smooth, wide circular marring (something under the pad!). And I was TRYING to damage the paint. Another car I worked and worked with a 6" WG yellow cutting pad (more aggressive than the 4" SFX, i believe) and SSR2.5 in direct sun and wasn't able to get bad marring (warmed the clear enough to reflow it a bit?).
I'm guessing that since fiberglass is not exactly a good conductor of heat, that it retained the heat in a small area, causing the bubble. Metal will conduct the heat away to the area immediately surrounding the hot spot, thereby dissipating more quickly. Also, it's possible that the bonding between the fiberglass and the repaint is different than metal and a repaint. This whole paragraph is total speculation, but it SEEMS logical to me at 5.30am
I'm guessing that since fiberglass is not exactly a good conductor of heat, that it retained the heat in a small area, causing the bubble. Metal will conduct the heat away to the area immediately surrounding the hot spot, thereby dissipating more quickly. Also, it's possible that the bonding between the fiberglass and the repaint is different than metal and a repaint. This whole paragraph is total speculation, but it SEEMS logical to me at 5.30am
(the NEW cyclo pads)Because the 6-71/2" pads dont generate much heat with standard pressure, we are able to move the pc very slow .
The 4" pads can be moved alittle faster. But the working area is smaller also. I typically work in a 1x1-ish area, and move the little pad at a pretty good pace. Inbetween PC movement and rotary movement.
I have no idea whats up with the noise your pc is making, but downward pressure to the pad should not be excessive.
With my SFX white and yellow pads i get good rotation on speed 3 and 4. At speed 5 it is zipping right alog. I have no use for speed 6 with the 4" pads.
I wouldnt prime the SSR polishes with anything except SSR polishes. Initially give it a full circle around the pad, then goto a half circle, then use less. The 4" pads will load up.
If i feel the need to apply any force to create more cut in the pad, i back off right before it turns clear.
On painted plastics, i am alot more carefull with 4" pads. I use no extra pressure, and keep the speeds to 4 or less. I would rather have to polish 3 light times then ruin anything.
The 4" pads are perfectly safe as long as you dont :
Atempt to remove deep scratches.
Understand that they can generate heat
Keep the pc moving
Use minimal downwards pressure.
The 4" pads can be moved alittle faster. But the working area is smaller also. I typically work in a 1x1-ish area, and move the little pad at a pretty good pace. Inbetween PC movement and rotary movement.
I have no idea whats up with the noise your pc is making, but downward pressure to the pad should not be excessive.
With my SFX white and yellow pads i get good rotation on speed 3 and 4. At speed 5 it is zipping right alog. I have no use for speed 6 with the 4" pads.
I wouldnt prime the SSR polishes with anything except SSR polishes. Initially give it a full circle around the pad, then goto a half circle, then use less. The 4" pads will load up.
If i feel the need to apply any force to create more cut in the pad, i back off right before it turns clear.
On painted plastics, i am alot more carefull with 4" pads. I use no extra pressure, and keep the speeds to 4 or less. I would rather have to polish 3 light times then ruin anything.
The 4" pads are perfectly safe as long as you dont :
Atempt to remove deep scratches.
Understand that they can generate heat
Keep the pc moving
Use minimal downwards pressure.