You did WHAT with M205?!?!

Kevin Brown

Kevin Brown

New member
Kevin:

"Ummm…

Is it okay that I just removed 2000 grit sanding marks…

Heh-heh- gulp!... Boy, am I gonna catch grief with this statement...) :nervous2:



Using my G100 random-orbital… Hooo-ho man… Is it hot in here?"



Doc:

“No, it’s cool. Now, I want you to breathe…, breathe… Deep.

That's right- A desert island…, YES- an island, with a cool breeze.

And little puppies and nice car gals, and neon gas station signs and superchargers...

And original Torque-Thrust wheels just strewn about... Everywhere… breathe.

Now exhale slowly... Ffffffff….� :chill:



Kevin:

"Speed setting 5…. using a 5.5� pad… 16-20 pounds applied pressure.

Who-weeee!... now here’s the crazy thing, Doc… :scared:



AND M205!!!!!!!! :shocked



Is that supposed to work…? Hoo-hooo heee-hee…!"



Doc:

M205 is a POLISH YOU CRAZY SO & SO!!!

Get outta my office! I will not be made the fool!"



As I scurry away, I think to myself,

"WOW! What’s that saying about raising the bar and stuff?"





I really DID just use M205 to remove 2000 grit hand-sanding marks.

It was a complete removal a very nice finish.

I final polished with M205 and another pad, and made it really POP!



The doctor and island part was made up.

This stuff should be reclassified as a weapon.



YEEEEE-HAWWWWWWwwwwww ! :woot:
 
Yup, I'm looking forward to trying it out someday. I gather from this thread that it has a bit of cut to it? Something that is really pad-dependent?



I'm not surprised to hear that a G100 would remove 2000 grit marks with a 5.5" pad. I've been able to remove non-unigrit 2000 grit with a 4" pad. The non-unigrit has a much less even cut and requires a lot more work to remove.
 
Removing 2000 grit marks with M205 and a DA?



Sounds like this product may be a little bit underrated on the new aggressiveness scale.



I guess I'll be adding this to the arsenal fairly soon...
 
Took several passes with a white foamed wool pad and #105 @ 1400 rpm to remove 2000 Unigrit wetsanding marks from a black C5 Corvette I did a month or so ago.... :nervous2:
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
Removing 2000 grit marks with M205 and a DA?

Sounds like this product may be a little bit underrated on the new aggressiveness scale.
Click to expand...



I think it's becoming difficult to define 'aggressiveness' with these new products.



Even though they 'cut' (or abrade) paint quickly, they do so in a controlled manner.

Very little follow-up is required to realize a dialed-in surface.



M205 seems to have very mild action when applied by hand, but very versatile when applied by machine.



Further, it's becoming painfully obvious that pad choice is going to make a huge difference in how (and how rapidly) M205 works.

Regardless the application method... This stuff leaves an sparkling clear finish. :faint:
 
Gonna need pics
biggrin.gif
 
I am so lost here.... I'm still old school with M80,M82,M83.



I have no idea what's up with M105 and M205. :doh
 
Scottwax said:
Took several passes with a white foamed wool pad and #105 @ 1400 rpm to remove 2000 Unigrit wetsanding marks from a black C5 Corvette I did a month or so ago.... :nervous2:
Click to expand...



Seems reasonable to me. That's what blew me away with the M205, Scott.



It seems to have an incredible amount of cut, yet- It leaves a phenomenal finish.

Will outperform M105 on most paints? Doubtful. I'm not even trying to imply that!

But it is possible.



What the paint polishing zealots will discover is how well M205 levels the paint surface. I don't mean that it will remove orange peel. This is hard to explain but I'll give it a try.



Imagine a brand new paint job. Of course, current technology cannot seem to deliver a glass-flat paint surface, so paints jobs inevitably have an orange peel texture to some degree.



Once the paint has had ample time to 'set-up', small changes in the texture may take place. In the case of the dualie I recently polished with M105 and M205, it had pretty nice paint- factory orange peel, errant scratches, towel and dust marks (the ususal). Upon very close inspection, I could see that some primer/paint shrinkage had occured (which is relatively uncommon these days). While this had almost no impact on the overall appearance of the paint, it did diminish the reflection capability of the paint.



Using the M205 and a 5.5" pad (nearly fully backed by the backing plate), I was able to tilt the machine on edge (to concentrate downward pressure) and smooth the shrinkage away. While the orange peel texture remains (not much paint was removed), the paint looks as-if it's really glowing when the sun hits it.



You'll need to use a pad that allows the machine to continue to rotate anywhere from 3 to 10 turns per second, yet deliver enough downward pressure to apply the abrasive material in a forced manner. Forced rotation/fixed orbit users (such as the Flex 3401VRG, Bosch 1250DEVS, Festool Rotex RO150/160, Makita BO6040, Dynabrade 61374/61375 rotary attachment) will be able guarantee pad movement, but laying the pad on edge will be more sketchy to control versus a random-orbit machine.



M205's abrasives are durable and refined in size and shape. The particles aren't affected by the depth of the scratch... They are there to abrade paint. So, it really comes down to the total surface area they are being applied to, and the manner in which they're applied. Pad size and machine choice dictate these parameters; the user controls the applied downward pressure.



To better understand this, imagine a piece of sandpaper that has abrasive particles of very refined in size and shape. Since we're in the imagining mode, let's pretend that the abrasive particles could be adjusted through the backing disc! That's right, we can adjust the overall height of each particle as it protrudes through the backing. AND!- We can adjust the positioning of each particle (close to each other or spaced far apart).



In this scenario, we want the particles pushed tightly together, and set to a height position that removes quite a bit of paint. That way, the paint removal will be very even and controlled. So, the particles are set to a position that sees them lying halfway between the backing disc, where half of the abrasive is hidden behind the disc, and half is hanging out, ready to abrade paint.



Once we cut away the defects, we then readjust the particles. Now, we want them backed down to refine the controlled defects we've just installed. So, we back them into the disc, leaving only the points of the abrasive exposed, and then push them tightly against each other. Same abrasive hardness, only very tiny at this setting. Of course, if the particles are regularly cleaned so the abrasive doesn't pack with abraded paint, they'll will continue to cut.



Instead of a sanding disc, we use pads. There is a limit to how much a buffing liquid will cut. If the pad/machine combo cannot continue to apply ample pressure to the pad's face (and thus to the paint surface), the ability to remove an obvious or useful amount of paint is done!



I think I've confused enough people at this point (at least I tried to rely what my brain is telling me!) :bolt
 
Any chance you are going to share what pad you where using? If not, can you at least give what it would line up to. I.e. burgundy cutting pad, yellow polishing pad?
 
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