Wool pads and paint burning...

K

kleraudio

New member
Hey guys, I know wool pads run cooler and smoother and what not, but do you still have the fear of burning a thin part of paint as fast as the foam pads can?



I know the foam pad will smoke the paint off *instantly* on the taped part shown here: (the taped part below the right halogen)



IMG_4693.jpg




Would a wool pad do the same thing if it made contact with that corner trunk handle??



Thanks



Jim
 
I've cut the paint off an edge with a foam pad and rotary too. With a wool pad I've only seen a couple edge/transition areas where I've had some dullness/haze. Just be careful around curved sections.
 
Klearaudio, I don't mean to come on strong but that tape job you did really sucks! That is going to get you into some trouble and look bad in the end.

Try using some 3M blue painters tape. Be very meticulous in putting it on. When you put it on a piece of trim like in the picture, just put it on the trim and bring it down smoothly till it just barely touches the paint, don't let the tape overlap on itself causing a ridge, don't leave air pockets between the tape and the paint.



I hope you understand that I am just trying to help you do it right.



Changeling
 
Yea Rydawg pointed that one out the other day. Thanks Change, It has been fixed, did some work an an Infiniti today and was very meticulous about the tape.



By the way, Yellow pad, HTEC/OP mix and 1800 RPM's only removed 50% of the damage! Those clears are wayyyyy wayyyy wayyy too hard!



Cant wait for the wool to get here!



Jim
 
When I use foam for cutting, I make sure I tape everything off that the edge of the pad could come in contact with. With wool, I barely tape much at all or if any. Wool is very forgiving and will not do the damage a foam pad will. The orange foam pad is the deadly one with the dry edges. I use the 3m high performane green automotive tape and can be found at walmart and most auto parts stores.



You are determined and I like seeing that!
 
Noting that I haven't used wool on b/c paint....



When I used wool on ss back in the day, I *never* taped and I *never* cut through/burned/etc. That was with a single-speed Milwaukee rotary and some ss (white not withstanding) was mighty delicate, far more so than most b/c.
 
I appreciate the replies guys, thanks a ton! I really hope this wool thing works out for me, seems so much more user friendly for cutting than foam does.



Should be here today, we will see.



Jim
 
kleraudio said:
I appreciate the replies guys, thanks a ton! I really hope this wool thing works out for me, seems so much more user friendly for cutting than foam does.



Should be here today, we will see.



Jim
Click to expand...



I agree with you 100% Jim which is why I have been inquisitive lately as well.
 
Wool is awesome... I just started using the rotary last Friday and started using wool and finished with foam. I had not had any experience with either but foam is way more user friendly. Just make sure you spur the pad. I have wool all over my garage =\
 
How long as compared to foam Al? I plan on using it tomorrow if I get a chance, just want to make sure I'm doing it right.



Ive read that wool should only be used with a polish with no grit, why do I see guys using it with SIP, OC, HTEC???



Also, how do you spur the pad, I have that yellow long handled brush, do I do the same as I do on a foam pad? Turn on the rotary and place the brush on the pad??







Thanks



Jim
 
kleraudio said:
How long as compared to foam Al? I plan on using it tomorrow if I get a chance, just want to make sure I'm doing it right.



Ive read that wool should only be used with a polish with no grit, why do I see guys using it with SIP, OC, HTEC???



Also, how do you spur the pad, I have that yellow long handled brush, do I do the same as I do on a foam pad? Turn on the rotary and place the brush on the pad??







Thanks



Jim
Click to expand...



No don't do that, the spur is really easy...same idea s the yellow brush but replace the brush with the spur.



Wool is really good, you get really good results and I find it to be much safer. Less heat, faster correction and with when you use wool that's when you are truly correcting...don't get me wrong foam will do the same but it will take much longer compared to wool. Both are good but when doing a black vehicle and it's in bad shape wool is the best way to go....oh wool and Menzerna = :goodjob just remember that you have to at least go through three steps after wool. I've seen pro's use wool and finish the surface LSP incredable, I'm not there yet my self but hopefully with more practice I'll be there soon.



Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the reply!



Can I just rinse the pad and spin dry between panels, I dont have a spur and cant get one by tomorrow.



Jim
 
Yup, you sure can...you'll notice that wool pads seem to trap water even more then foam for some rason and give it a good spin because if you don't you'l splatter compund all over the place ;)



Keep us posted as to your experiance with the wool.
 
You'll start to notice your wool pads getting caked and laying down flat as you work. When that happens, pull out the spur, and spur your pad at around 1k rpm's. That will bring the life back to it. Eventually the pad will get caked enough that the spur won't bring it back. When that happens, use the big yellow handle brush, then the spur. The brush is kinda hard on the pad, so try not to use it very often. When my pads get to the point where I'd need to use the brush to continue using them, I either change to a new pad (which for me just means flipping my edge wool pad over to the other side :) ), or clean the dirty pad in snappy pad, rinse it under the tap, then spin it for several minutes on the rotary at 2400 rpm. It leaves the pad barely damp and ready to re-use. It's also much gentler on the pad than using the brush.



Kleraudio, I hope you'll give "finishing out with wool" a chance. The traditional role of wool has always been cutting, and it's hard to get it out of this stereotypical role. Even some of the Edge folks themselves just don't seem to be aware of the power of their own products. I just know that if people will give the Edge wool finishinig pads a shot, they will be very pleased with the results and realize that wool really isn't just for cutting anymore.



The only reason I'm even keeping my foam pads is in case I run into some soft clear or SS that I can't get a wool finishing pad to finish down on correctly. Other than that, they stay sealed up in their ziploks.
 
Good pointers there Superbee364, I totally agree with you about "finishing out with the wool". Once you get the hang of the wool pad you will love it, funy thing is I found wool pads much easy compared to foam...foam generates so much heat it's kinda scary to me that is.



kleraudio, whater will not destroy your Edge 2K pads. If water was bad then how would you clean the pad :D water is your friend in detailing.
 
kleraudio said:
Yea I definitely will, so water wont destroy my Edge2k pads?



Jim
Click to expand...



Nope. I wouldn't let them soak long term, however. I've kept them in the snappy pad bucket for several hours with no ill effects. Even one time overnight (unintentionally). I wouldn't make it a habbit, though.
 
thanks Superbee, I dont have any snappy, would dawn be ok?



If not making it a habit, how do you clean your pads on a daily basis? I like to clean my pads after every job.



Jim
 
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