What Polish To Use on Light, White Scratches and Swirls?

2

2000TL

New member
I was reading a lot of great things about the PC Orbital buffer and was wondering, along with a good (foam?) cutting pad, what type of polish should I use to take out minor scratches, modeate swirls and cobwebbing, and other surface defects, or at the very least, minimize them?? I read that Menzerna doesn't work well with PC buffer (doesn't generate enough heat) and I want something that is safe and won't cause more micromarring, but also is effective and can take out the marring already there.



Won't I need a step system, like a polish and then something to reduce the haze (like a glaze?). What does everyone here recommend?



And BTW: Has anyone heard of these product- http://detailingdynamics.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DDOS&Category_Code=DC



I was talking to the owner of the company and her claims that it can work wonders, but I hadn't heard anything about the product line, Just looking at all my options.
 
There are several combos that should work well for you, I'll just list three to start you thinking.



1. 3M's PI III RC (rubbing compound) followed by 3M's PI III MG (machine glaze)



2. 1ZPP followed by 1ZMP (these are made by Einszett)



3. Meg's DACP (#83) followed by Meg's #80
 
You might also look at Poorboys products, such as SSR 2.5, 2, and 1.



I've had great results using these products.
 
Yep, any of the previous four suggestions should work just fine. FWIW, I think I'd go with the 1Z stuff as it's the most user-friendly.



1Z PP with cutting pad, then 1Z PP again with a polishing pad, then 1Z MP with another polishing pad.



I'd use the 3M stuff the same way (BTW, the pns for the 3M are 05933=RC, 05937=MG).
 
I just had one concern: I had used 3M Rubbing Compound before and it didn't seem to take out my swirls, but I was using by hand. Will the buffer really make the difference between being effective and not at all effective?





And after using 3M's PI III MG after the compound, will I be ready to apply a final sealant like NXT??
 
Yes, the PC will make a LOT of difference than by hand. Between the PC and your cutting pads you'll be pleased. Just make sure you work the RC in long enough with the PC; fairly fast on PC speed, slow with your arm speed.



And the MG will leave your paint ready for NXT or the wax/sealer of your choice.
 
One more question: I have seen a lot of tutorials or step processes on how to use a PC (what direction to move it, how quickly, what speed, etc.) but some of them seem to differ in their methods.



What's a link to a page, or maybe just straight from your own knowledge, that explains decisively and effectively how to properly use the PC, especially for my intended purposes of removing scratches and cobwebbing??



Oh, and 1 more ;) Can I use the buffer and polish products on the plastic like below the trunk, bumpers, and next to the wheel wells?
 
2000TL said:
........What's a link to a page, or maybe just straight from your own knowledge, that explains decisively and effectively how to properly use the PC, especially for my intended purposes of removing scratches and cobwebbing??



Oh, and 1 more ;) Can I use the buffer and polish products on the plastic like below the trunk, bumpers, and next to the wheel wells?
Click to expand...

Here are two links that may help you:



http://www.properautocare.com/remswiruspor.html



http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/inf-pc7424.html



It's late, and I may leave something out but here are some tips that work for me:

1. Work a small area at a time

2. Mist a new or clean/dry pad lightly with distilled water before polishing

3. Start at a slower PC speed (about 3) then crank it up (5 or 6) to work in the polish and break down the abrasives, but move your PC (arm speed slowly) and overlap 50%

4. Most of us learn this the hard way; have the PC pad on the car when you turn it on and before you turn it off. If you lift it with product on the pad it will sling it all over the place.



As to your last question, no, you shouldn’t polish plastic trim. Most polishes (and even wax) will stain plastic/rubber trim. Use 3M brand blue painters tape to mask those areas off or you’ll spend additional time later trying to clean off wax/polish that will stain it. Two exceptions that I can think of off-hand are VM (Vanilla Moose) and Klasse AIO; both of which can be used on trim.
 
I think I am going to go with the 3M system, followed up with a good sealant (any suggestions- going for durability and depth look), but before I commit, has anyone heard anything about the new "Advanced Swirl Remover" from Pinnacle? I usually associate Pinnacle with high quality products, just wondering if anyone knew anything about this?
 
*I* heard it was an ok product (pinnacle) but nothing special...that was only a few peoples opinion though.

As far as a good sealant there are sooo many to choose from. I think for winter I usually go the Klasse route. Summer time I am really warming up to wolfgang + TS as my LSP(s). EX-P is also a good.
 
2000TL said:
........has anyone heard anything about the new "Advanced Swirl Remover" from Pinnacle? I usually associate Pinnacle with high quality products, just wondering if anyone knew anything about this?
Click to expand...

Here is a thread that will answer some questions for you on the Pinnacle product:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44204&highlight=Advanced+Swirl+Remover



As to a good sealer for the winter, I would also suggest Klasse SG as did scottabir. I also like EX and EX-P, but I think Klasse (2+ coats) may provide better longevity in the winter. If you decide on Klasse here is one known method of application/removal:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30989&highlight=official+wipe+on+off
 
So, wash, clay, 3M's PI III RC (won't leave further micromarring, right?), followed by 3M's PI III MG (which should restore shine?), and then Klasse SG, and I should be set up pretty good?



Also, will I need to wash again after the claying process?
 
3M's PI III RC isn't as abrasive as it sounds, so following that with MG will leave you a very nice finish.



If you clay using a fresh solution of car wash soap as your lubricant you will save a little time, then just rinse/dry and start with the 3M products. The RC will remove any residue that may be left on the finish.



The only thing I would add is perhaps some Klasse AIO before the SG. That will remove any residue from the compounds and give you a really nice and clean prepped surface for SG. AIO is trim friendly so you don't need to mask it off. It can also be applied by hand or with a PC.



Edit: Here is link to a thread on AIO you may find useful:



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44843&highlight=aio
 
I was reading over at ProperAutoCar.com that the Klasse products can highlight swirls and maybe aren't best for dark colored cars. Any truth to this and if so, is there a product that without these qualities?
 
2000TL said:
I was reading over at ProperAutoCar.com that the Klasse products can highlight swirls and maybe aren't best for dark colored cars. Any truth to this and if so, is there a product that without these qualities?
Click to expand...

Ideally you'll have all the swirls out by the time you’re done with the RC and MG, that’s the whole purpose of using them.



If you’re still concerned you can use a combo like VM (Vanilla Moose by Clearkote) followed by EX (by Poorboy’s). That’s a beautiful combo for dark colored cars, but the longevity may not be as long as you can get with Klasse.
 
Is that combination durable, and for how long would you guesstimate? Are these like traditional waxes? Would I Re-apply them both at the same time? And what kind of quick detailed would I use between applications that would be compatible?



BTW- so sorry for all my questions, I can't thank you enough for all of your help!
 
VM is a light polish/glaze, while EX is a sealant with carnauba in it. If you put on two coats of EX (24 hours between coats) I'd say you should get at least 3 months out of it. You can also top it with a carnauba wax if desired. Longevity depends on several factors such as the climate, garaged vs out in the open, etc. There are a lot of QD’s you could use, one being Poorboy’s QD+ that has carnauba in it.



There are a LOT of good products out there, and when one of us makes a recommendation it is usually a matter of personal preference and what has worked best for US in the past. You’ve just gotta decide on something to use and then if you’re satisfied stick with it, or like the rest of us keep trying different products just to see how well they look/perform. The only limit is your shelf space and credit card limits.



I could rattle off several different polishes you could use with good results, and even more sealer/wax combo’s, but then you’ll have even more decisions to make. I’ve tried to limit the options I’ve mentioned to products that have performed well for me and would be a good starting point for what you’re I think you're trying to accomplish.
 
If I buy a wax or sealant that doesn't have its own Quick Detailer, can I use another brand? Any in particular that work pretty universally?
 
You can pretty much use any QD on most any wax/sealant. If a sealer doesn't have any wax (like Klasse SG or EX-P) some like to use a QD that has no carnauba (like Clearkote’s Quik Shine). Where you run into problems is if you want to put on another layer of sealer, in which case you don’t want to use a product that isn’t compatible or you may have bonding issues.



To be safe don’t use a QD that isn’t designed for your sealer until you’ve applied all the layers you’re planning on. After that QD to your hearts content, and then start over with VM/EX or AIO/SG (or whatever you plan on using next) when it’s time to redo your process.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top