What enclosed trailer brands do you own or know about.

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imported_Grouse

New member
I am looking at outfitting an enclosed trailer. I am looking for a solid reputable brand.



I've taken a look at wells cargo but their site is meh. so i am asking here.
 
My last enclosed was a 4x8 Carmate. Carry On enclosed trailers are pretty affordable, although I prefer the designs from other manufacturer's. I currently own a Carry On open utility trailer. You also have Wells Cargo, Pace American & Haulmark.
 
One real good brand that I know of but will cost you a bit is Featherlite Trailers. Not sure how avail in your area they are but you could check them out.
 
Welcome to USA Trailer Sales LLC for somebody somewhat local, and great deals. I have been referred to them by two clients of mine, one who owns a landscaping/lawn care business, and another who does A/V work. They both said that that was the best place for trailers around here. I believe they have a showroom somewhere near you in central Michigan.
 
Wow i like both the pace american and featherlite.



I can't get featherlite dealer locator to work. I have an email to the local PA retailer.



I'm going to need a few things to go with it.



100g Water tank with 100 psi pump.

Generator, enough to run 20 amp HWE, compressor, and pressure washer.

Gas pressure washer.

Shelving





I guess i am trying to figure out what people have in their enclosed trailers.



~Aaron
 
One piece of advice... GET A SIDE DOOR! I just bought a 5x8 enclosed and I wish I would have gotten a side door with it.



I went with a Hiway Cargo trailer by Carson Trailer. I don't know what their availability is like in your area, but its a nice unit.
 
yeah i did a search and saw your thread.



I am thinking of something around 6' wide from wheel well to wheel well. 6.5-7' tall inside and 14-16ft long.
 
A bit off topic... but does anyone know what causes a trailer to squeak over bumps? My trailer just recently started doing this and am curious as to the cause.
 
clnfrk said:
A bit off topic... but does anyone know what causes a trailer to squeak over bumps? My trailer just recently started doing this and am curious as to the cause.
Click to expand...





Mine does it as well. Nothing to worry about. Just make sure everything stays greased and lubed up under there.





Also, I was going to buy a taller trailer, but the wind would have caught it, causing a lot more drag.
 
I have a Haulmark, over 11 years and going strong.



Squeek. Not likely leaf springs, and I have not seen a car trailer made in the past 15 years that had leaf springs. The mostly use Dexter Torflex axles.



I don;t know what kind of trailer you have, but on many aluminum trailers, they get a bit "loose" after awhile and the panels, etc flexing and rubbing on each other causes the creaking. I know on my trailer, I have full wheel covers and they will creak from time to time as well.
 
I have twenty years of experience of driving a trailer so there is what I know.

Buying an enclosed trailer to work out of I would get an enclosed trailer with hardly any rivets on the side so you can have a vinyl sign, just makes it look better and it also makes washing easier too. Get a torsion bar instead of leaf springs. You are going to drive your trailer a lot so get a front alum rock guard if you don’t your front of your trailer will have rock chips from the back tires. You will need ventilation say side air intakes and a top hood. Also electric crank saves you time and energy well worth it if you have to disconnect a lot.

A large trailer say 6x12 or more takes more to maneuver in city streets.

A smaller trailer say 5X12 or less it’s easier to back up and maneuverability in city streets is a lot easier, a smaller trailer less fatigue to drive.

The more weight you have the bigger engine you need to pull it, caring a lot of weight you have to have trailer brakes for it. Towing you have to have an auto tran cooler, bigger shocks and better tires & brakes if you don’t have a tow package. The size of engine to drive confrontly I would say a 4.0L or better /w proper gearing. “�����Most of these are safety issues so don’t ignore them!����� Keep it legal or you can be legally responsible.

When you buy the trailer stain the inside wood and buy a heavy duty rubber floor mat but first before you measure put a triangle piece of wood on the side to rise the mat up a inch of more and then measure, when you cut it cut it to a inside angle. Why a brim because if you spill water it will go out the front door or the front instead of under the mat.

I forgot what it’s called it’s a sand paper nonslip stickem to put on flooring so you don’t fall on your ***. Put that on the front metal plate.

Trailer lighting get one sky roof lighting vent in the front and two 12v florescent lighting fixtures.

Trailer shelving you can buy some already made for big bucks or you can make your own custom shelving real cheap. There is how to make them if you have any metal working experience. Buy some alum alloy sheets, it’s sort of real easy to bend and cut. Welding alum takes experience so take the preformed numbered alum sheets that you have made and have them welded together at a shop.



Featherlite trailers weights a lot less so you can carry more cargo weight w/o trailer brakes and or a bigger engine.

You can have your trailer custom made to your own specifications to say how it looks, to the size you need to say roof storage area, you need a stronger wheel fender to step on.

To a water tank that under the trailer flooring by buying an Rv tank. Placing your generator engine in front on the custom sized tongue. All this counts for a small size trailer.

Good build trailers hold there retail value real good when you sell them so…..

Featherlite Trailers - Recreation/Utility - Utility
 
Northpac,



Thanks for the advice. I will probably by my racks from my local carpet/hard surface distributor. I have made my shelves in the past (in vans) and while it was strong and worked. I don't have the skills to make it look nice.



I have a vehicle to tow it, and towing package with tranny cooler and electric brake control module. (not my fav, but it works)



So your saying get an rv water tank and have it mounted just infront or behind the axle on the underside of the trailer, with the fill spout either coming up through the floor and out the shell or out the underside?



Then get a custom box made for the generator to sit inside? Place that box on the tounge?



Aside from the generator and the water tank I was thinking of.

2 pop open vents with electric fans (run off the generator.)

1 full side door,

Rear ramp (to get the HWE in and out of easier)

2 4 foot ballasts of flourescent lights.

1 side/wall mounted shop vac (Wall mounted shop vac

Pressure washer (I have not decided if electric will suit me or gas....I may start with electric. then replace the whole thing with truck mount HWE whic would replace the pressure washer and HWE

Shelving and storage for both 1 and 5 gallon containers.

Shelving and storage for towels and tools.
 
There most be a thousand ways to set up a trailer, safety is #1 weight distribution. 10 to 15% of weight should be on the tongue, to help prevent the trailer from swaying back and forth. Try placing heavier cargo in the front of the trailer ahead of the trailer's axle. Search for towing a trailing in a search engine there lots of good reading.

Under floor water tank some trailers have room for it some don’t.

Pressure washer get the most powerful electric one that your generator can support, A heavy duty generator a more powerful PW. Today’s electric motors are more powerful then years ago, after you are not going to clean concrete for a living. Get a self feeding Pressure washer pump so you don’t have to have a feeder plump to your PW. Proper set up will include a filter, a bypass to your pressure regulator to your tank, a heater for winter if needed or wanted? Also you can have a spring roll up hose unit under the floor too just yank on the hose and it will roll up and have wall hose roller unit installed on your trailer’s wall, quick connection set ups. Just think all the time you can save if you do it with the right planning will cost you more but it will pay for it self. Sample: you get out of your car/truck open the doors flip a switch your generator turns on, flip a other switch your PW turns on and you pull the hose out and you are working away. You yank on the hose and it rolls up automatically.

On your custom trailer you can have a outside window on your trailer that’s built in that acts as a work bench.

Customizing a trailer with the modern technology out there it best to talk to someone that is a specialist in the field of trailers. Today’s technology is far better then a few years ago and you will be surprised what can be done and relatively cheaper then you think.





You can put a generator on your trailer’s tongue if you have it custom made tongue. Normal small trailer tongues you don’t have room also you have to have tow hitch installed because they go farther out then your bumper does and its more heavy duty. Remember what I was talking about making your trailer with your own specifications from just about any trailer manufacture out there, it will cost just a little bit more but will worth it!

Setting up a trailer think of the worse case sinereo (spelling?) hitting large pot holes on the road that rocks your belongings all over.

Easy to get to your tools/supplies real quick, you don’t want to climb over cr*p to get to things, makes working a pain. The fewer things you have on the floor the better. Also head room if you are tall like me bending your head down is a pain, so when you custom make your trailer have it tall enough inside so you don’t have to bend your head down, after all you will be spending a lot of time inside.
 
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