Vinyl wrap removal, fixing clear coat problems caused by removing vinyl

[series8217]

I'm removing 3M 1080 series wrap from a vehicle which it has been applied to for 9 months. To facilitate easier removal, no adhesion promoter or primer was used during the application. The wrap was getting stained and water-spotted but was not otherwise degraded.

The film was at a temperature of 60degC (140degF), heated by the sun, before I began removing the film. I peeled starting at a lifted edge where possible, then toward the inside, then finally to the outside, in an attempt to avoid lifting the paint or clear coat at a weak edge.

On the rear bumper, which I know has been repainted or at least re-clearcoated, the clearcoat peeled up from the top edges, where it isn't visible. it also peeled around the holes for the rear park distance sensors, where it had been applied VERY thick.

I removed all vinyl from the roof and the passenger side quarter panel, C pillar, and A pillar, without any peeling. However, on the driver's side roof beam (where the edge of the roof meets the drip rail) the clearcoat peeled up in about a 4mm strip and is, unfortunately, visible here. I don't know if this side of the car had ever been re-painted or re-shot with clear. Note that the paint on this car is otherwise immaculate.

Two questions:
1) What's a suitable repair for the peeled clearcoat on the edge of the roof beam? Can the remaining clearcoat be feathered back to blend with the damaged area (exposed color coat), then re-clear that region, block sand, and buff? Can't reshoot the whole panel because its integrated into about 50% of the body without a seam.

2) How can I avoid lifting clearcoat on the rest of the panels I need to remove the vinyl from?

 

[Greg Gellas]

Use steam to heat the vinyl to make removal easier. Also don't lift, pull the vinyl towards you and level with the paint as you can to remove it.

 

[series8217]

Use steam to heat the vinyl to make removal easier. Also don't lift, pull the vinyl towards you and level with the paint as you can to remove it.

Thanks for the tip on the steam!

I am already pulling it flat toward me and level with the paint; same way I pull masking tape.

 

[0inDetail0]

I used to do deinstall's on wraps for a graphics company in Philly. The 3M vinyl and lam gets brittle as it ages. The best thing is to use a blow dryer to soften it up again. Get your self a handful of vinyl heat it up where it's still attached to the paint and gently peel it back. Do not get too close with the blow dryer but you will know when you can peel it back you will feel it get softer. If you feel comfortable plastic razor blades help. If I ever had any tiny pieces that stuck after removing graphics let the panels cool then use goo gone to remove the stubborn stuff.
From the sound of the issues you are having there was either prior clear coat damage or the paint was not prepped properly for install. Any good installer should have advised you or your client of potential graphics or paint failure if the clear was damaged prior to application.
Don't forget to check wrap in the seams. Some installers will wrap into the seam which is the right way to do it.

 

[series8217]

I used to do deinstall's on wraps for a graphics company in Philly. The 3M vinyl and lam gets brittle as it ages. The best thing is to use a blow dryer to soften it up again. Get your self a handful of vinyl heat it up where it's still attached to the paint and gently peel it back. Do not get too close with the blow dryer but you will know when you can peel it back you will feel it get softer. If you feel comfortable plastic razor blades help. If I ever had any tiny pieces that stuck after removing graphics let the panels cool then use goo gone to remove the stubborn stuff.
From the sound of the issues you are having there was either prior clear coat damage or the paint was not prepped properly for install. Any good installer should have advised you or your client of potential graphics or paint failure if the clear was damaged prior to application.
Don't forget to check wrap in the seams. Some installers will wrap into the seam which is the right way to do it.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

The film is pretty soft already at 140F... (remember this film is only 9 months old). But I will try a higher temperature on a few sections with a see if any more heat reduces the force required to release the adhesive.

Do you have any experience removing with 3M R221 (controltac film remover)? If I can chemically release the film from the substrate I might avoid removing more clear coat. Just trying to minimize further clear coat damage at this point to keep the paint repair bill down. Any additional cleanup I might need to do with adhesive remover will still cost less than a clearcoat repair.