UDM thoughts from a normal guy....Dissapointed

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Paulie Walnuts

New member
Well the intent of this review is not to step on any toes just offer an honest persons thoughts who is an enthusiasts detailer and someone who details for cash whenever I want to but not every week.



Going in I was expecting a lot more power from the way that it was advertised and what the general reactions from the beta testers stated.



First thing I noticed is that its heavier, not much but enough to notice.



Second was the backing plate was way to small so put a larger one on. It vibrated so badly I wasn’t sure if I wanted to fix the hood with it and go to the rotary. So I went down to a 4 inch pad and a 2 ¾ inch backing plate. At that size it worked great but it covered such a small area that there was not a lot of use for it. So I went back to the backing plate that came with the UDM and used the 6.5inch LC VC pads I have always used. It was better than the larger 5.5 inch backing plate but by much. At one point the vibrations were so bad that I tried to take by wedding ring off and couldn’t get it off because my hands had swollen up. Anyone who says the vibrations are less than the PC I think you are crazy. To cut down on vibrations I put the handle on it but I just don’t like that feeling so I tossed it off after one panel.



The on / off switch is the biggest pain in the a$$. I must have accidentally turned the UDM on 4 times, I really hope a fix for this comes out. I like the way the speed dial protrudes from the machine, its easier to adjust speed. And the cord being shorter is also not good, even though I use an extension cord there are times where I am in a confined space and would like the extra distance so that I do not have to get out the extension cord.





In summary, don’t expect miracles, and I would not say that its going to remove rotary type swirls. I guess I was just expecting a smoother machine and I certainly did not get one. Its definitely better than the PC and will probably replace it but it sure did not live up to the hype I had read. If we could kick the power up another 20% and get rid of the vibrations it would be much better.



EDIT: Im a moran and can not spell. Yes I know moran is spelled wrong, its an OT thing.
 
Thanks for the review BUT, after all that you said I am confused by your closing statement that it's better than the PC.. How so?



Any chance we could get you to do a 50/50 panel with the udm/pc same pad/product combo?



Jason
 
MotorCity said:
Thanks for the review BUT, after all that you said I am confused by your closing statement that it's better than the PC.. How so?



Any chance we could get you to do a 50/50 panel with the udm/pc same pad/product combo?



Jason
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Sorry, Im not the best at writing reviews, I more or less just blurt out thoughts. Its better in that it does not bog down like the PC and it has more correcting abilities. You are getting more bang for the buck than the PC. It is just after IMO how it was presented and initial reviews I took it that the machine would be smoother and more powerful than the PC. It is indeed more powerful but not as powerful as I thought it would be and certainly is no smoother IMO.



I have a Corvette coming to me on Friday that I will test out how it works with a more aggressive compound and pad combo, but my car just did not need that much work. It was more for fun than anything.



Again no disrespect to DavidB and the creators as I have the utmost respect for all that they put into this project. These are just the thoughts of a common person who has a passion for detailing and does do detailing for money when the mood hits him.
 
If you already had a PC ROB and a Rotary would you still replace the PC with a UDM? Anymore, I find the onlt time I use my ROB is for a quick once over after I use my Rotaary just to ensure the Rotary did not leave any light holograms that I can not see.
 
z06meister said:
If you already had a PC ROB and a Rotary would you still replace the PC with a UDM? Anymore, I find the onlt time I use my ROB is for a quick once over after I use my Rotaary just to ensure the Rotary did not leave any light holograms that I can not see.
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Probably not. Quite frankly my wife wanted to get me a wedding gift that was not expensive as we spent enough on our rings and the wedding and I thought this was a good idea.



If you are debating between the UDM and the PC, its a no brainier, UDM due to the additional power. I was just expecting more, when I put it on setting 6 my first thought was that it seemed a little more powerful and didnt bog down, but again I was expecting more.



If you have a PC and a Rotray and can use both effectively, no point in getting the UDM.



My dream is rotary power in a UDM package.....
 
I was wondering about this as well. From what I've read the UDM is nothing more than a crutch for a beginner. It seems if your already skilled with a rotary I don't see any advantage to the UDM or even a PC. It really comes off (to me anyways) as a beginners tool to detailing. Can anyone explain to me why the UDM is a good purchase if your already skilled with a rotary? What benifits does it offer over a rotary. My rotaries are all variable speed so i can go as slow or as fast as I need to with that. Pleanty of Foam pad options out there for my dewalt. I'm just curious as to why this is such a popular item. I'm sure there's really got to be something to it.
 
Jakerooni said:
I was wondering about this as well. From what I've read the UDM is nothing more than a crutch for a beginner. It seems if your already skilled with a rotary I don't see any advantage to the UDM or even a PC. It really comes off (to me anyways) as a beginners tool to detailing. Can anyone explain to me why the UDM is a good purchase if your already skilled with a rotary? What benifits does it offer over a rotary. My rotaries are all variable speed so i can go as slow or as fast as I need to with that. Pleanty of Foam pad options out there for my dewalt. I'm just curious as to why this is such a popular item. I'm sure there's really got to be something to it.
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Well, I think that the intent of the marketing is to market it to those who may have a fear about the rotary and this is a medium between the rotary and the PC. Benefits over the rotary are lighter less chance to do damage. With the flick of a switch you can burn paint with the rotary but I dont see how you could with the UDM. Ive already tried and although I was unwilling to let it go more than 60 seconds in one spot on my car, it did no visible damage. I wish that I would have gotten the Hitachi rotary as I have the Porter Cable rotary and its just too bulky to use on vert panels.
 
Another observation after using the machine for the last hour, if you change backing plates after using for extended period of time, dont touch the counterweight, or in my case your arm, it will burn you.
 
Ah ok so my assumption seems to be on the mark I take it. If your not skilled with a rotary then this is a good tool. But someone like myself who is extreamly confident with using a rotary probably wouldn't find much use for this... Thanks for the info.
 
WilliamHBonney said:
Second was the backing plate was way to small so put a larger one on. It vibrated so badly I wasn’t sure if I wanted to fix the hood with it and go to the rotary. So I went down to a 4 inch pad and a 2 ¾ inch backing plate. At that size it worked great but it covered such a small area that there was not a lot of use for it. So I went back to the backing plate that came with the UDM and used the 6.5inch LC VC pads I have always used. It was better than the larger 5.5 inch backing plate but by much. At one point the vibrations were so bad that I tried to take by wedding ring off and couldn’t get it off because my hands had swollen up. Anyone who says the vibrations are less than the PC I think you are crazy.
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In apples to apples test when using backing plate that comes with UDM (as that is size counterweight was designed for) on both of them with 5" pads on both of them (as that is the size that is best fit for that backing plate) vibrations are less than a PC.
 
Yea, with 5 and 6" pads I've had very little uncomfortable vibrations. I was able to use it with one hand on speeds 4-6 smoothly and with confidence. It just appears the UDM at this point can't handle a 6.5" pad all that well?
 
phamkl said:
It just appears the UDM at this point can't handle a 6.5" pad all that well?
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I don't think pad size makes as much difference as the fact that bigger pad size is harder to perfectly center/balance on backing plate which will create vibrations. Further more, even same amount of imbalance will cause more vibrations with bigger pad because location of weight is shifting further away from center. That is one of reasons why I like pads that are just slightly larger than backing plate. Much easier to center them.
 
WilliamHBonney... Thank you for your feedback. IMHO, there is no such thing an an invalid comment. Your perception is valid for you. Still, I would like to reply with a bit of my own information and feedback.



First, this machine is sensitive to the backing plate weight. I believe I was very forward about this issue in the notes I have posted in this forum. I'm not happy with the situation, and that's why I'm putting in long hours to develop not just a fix, but a better system. Because of this situation, I have a much better understanding of the physics of this tool. The final result will be a much better polisher. You will have an opportunity to upgrade.



Next, my original theory that a larger pad on a DA was better was flawed. I have learned through my experience with spot pads that a smaller pad on a DA is what is needed to remove flaws. A larger pad works well for pre-wax polishing and waxing. That's why I changed our DAS pads. If you look at the new DAS pad line, they are smaller, starting at 5.5" (ScratchBuster).



When the average car enthusiast is doing paint correction, they are not whipping around with a rotary trying to crank it out and get to the next job, they are dojng the job with care. So, 4.75" backing plate provided with the UDM is what I felt was the best size for 90% of the people who will use it. I could have easily selected a very cheap 6" backing plate made in China that would be the same weight as the quality backing plate provided. I was not willing to compromise backing plate quality.



In regards to our marketing, we're not marketing to people who fear a rotary; I truly believe this is a better way to polish for all but 10% of paint problems. Most pros I know polish with a rotary because it is faster, but they always make a final pass with their PC. With the UDM, proper pads, polish and technique, the rotary is rarely needed. I can polish a badly swirled car end-to-end with the UDM in about an hour.



Now, as to your dream, I have developed a head design that turns the UDM into a rotary. We'll see how fast I can get it through the patent process and I will show the design.
 
DavidB said:
Now, as to your dream, I have developed a head design that turns the UDM into a rotary. We'll see how fast I can get it through the patent process and I will show the design.
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You did WHAT????? Oh wow! Can you give a RPM range for it??
 
WilliamHBonney said:
Well, I think that the intent of the marketing is to market it to those who may have a fear about the rotary and this is a medium between the rotary and the PC. Benefits over the rotary are lighter less chance to do damage. With the flick of a switch you can burn paint with the rotary but I dont see how you could with the UDM. Ive already tried and although I was unwilling to let it go more than 60 seconds in one spot on my car, it did no visible damage. I wish that I would have gotten the Hitachi rotary as I have the Porter Cable rotary and its just too bulky to use on vert panels.
Click to expand...



I hear ya, brother... I hear ya.



On the bright side, though, I can now curl a Yugo.
 
DavidB said:
WilliamHBonney... Thank you for your feedback. IMHO, there is no such thing an an invalid comment. Your perception is valid for you. Still, I would like to reply with a bit of my own information and feedback.



First, this machine is sensitive to the backing plate weight. I believe I was very forward about this issue in the notes I have posted in this forum. I'm not happy with the situation, and that's why I'm putting in long hours to develop not just a fix, but a better system. Because of this situation, I have a much better understanding of the physics of this tool. The final result will be a much better polisher. You will have an opportunity to upgrade.



Next, my original theory that a larger pad on a DA was better was flawed. I have learned through my experience with spot pads that a smaller pad on a DA is what is needed to remove flaws. A larger pad works well for pre-wax polishing and waxing. That's why I changed our DAS pads. If you look at the new DAS pad line, they are smaller, starting at 5.5" (ScratchBuster).



When the average car enthusiast is doing paint correction, they are not whipping around with a rotary trying to crank it out and get to the next job, they are dojng the job with care. So, 4.75" backing plate provided with the UDM is what I felt was the best size for 90% of the people who will use it. I could have easily selected a very cheap 6" backing plate made in China that would be the same weight as the quality backing plate provided. I was not willing to compromise backing plate quality.



In regards to our marketing, we're not marketing to people who fear a rotary; I truly believe this is a better way to polish for all but 10% of paint problems. Most pros I know polish with a rotary because it is faster, but they always make a final pass with their PC. With the UDM, proper pads, polish and technique, the rotary is rarely needed. I can polish a badly swirled car end-to-end with the UDM in about an hour.



Now, as to your dream, I have developed a head design that turns the UDM into a rotary. We'll see how fast I can get it through the patent process and I will show the design.
Click to expand...

Man would I love to stand and watch that!!!
 
WilliamHBonney said:
Man would I love to stand and watch that!!!
Click to expand...



I demonstrated it at my last clinic. I buffed out a badly oxidized, swirled and scratched 911 in about 90 minutes (while talking) and a student buffed out his swirled TransAm in an hour while the rest of the class watched.
 
If you make the UDM able to switch to a rotary you have my full attention. And I don't like to think I'm some sort of shill that "whips through with a rotary to get to the next job" I fully feel I can get a proper finish on anything I've come across with a rotary. Always have been able because that's how I was properly taught. But rest assured QUALITY is what I'm after. never quanity.
 
Jakerooni said:
If you make the UDM able to switch to a rotary you have my full attention. And I don't like to think I'm some sort of shill that "whips through with a rotary to get to the next job" I fully feel I can get a proper finish on anything I've come across with a rotary. Always have been able because that's how I was properly taught. But rest assured QUALITY is what I'm after. never quanity.
Click to expand...



I said I'll show it... didn't say I'd build it.



Long term I will put the ability into a new polisher, but not the current platform. The 2,500 to 6,000 RPM range is way too high. Talk about swirls and paint burns!



I will show it after I build 2-3 safe prototypes because I'd like to get feedback on the design. It will require an allen wrench to make the switch. This might be okay for the home user, but might turn off Pros.



db
 
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