Offering Paint Correction

[DT08]

Hey guys!

Not sure if I'm in the right section for this, but how many of you offer paint correction/swirl removal as a service? I'm trying to learn this craft as we speak. Going to the junk yard and picking out some old hoods and fenders to work on to get my skill right.

If any of you offer this service are you seeing some good money from it?

Thanks!!

 

[JaredPointer]

I'd think anyone that really considers themselves a detailer offers correction service. If you don't, it's basically a wash & wax. Wash & wax =/= detail.

Not that there's anything wrong with a wash and wax...

 

[mrclean81]

There can be good money in it but only if your good at it. What machine or machines and products are you planning to use?

 

[bigron62]

i get at least $25.00 per additional stage on paint work or $25.00 / 40.00per hour to work on real bad ones ,,you can use a pc to do some stuff with the right products but a rotary will come in handy on the bad ones ...i learned to use a rotary on my own vehicles

 

[DT08]

@mrclean81: I've been using a rotary practicing on hoods and fenders that I get from the junk yard. It's going to take some practice for me to get it right.

I want to be able to offer my customers a little more. Many of them have been asking about it, so I want to be able to offer that service to them.

 

[mrclean81]

@mrclean81: I've been using a rotary practicing on hoods and fenders that I get from the junk yard. It's going to take some practice for me to get it right.

I want to be able to offer my customers a little more. Many of them have been asking about it, so I want to be able to offer that service to them.

I use a rotary for all my correction jobs. With any machine, but especially a rotary, pad and product choice is crucial. Swirl marks are a big issue with them. Ive had polish even swirl on me and had to go to a lighter pad and glaze to get them out. Something else to think about when using a rotary is speed control. Starting out with one, run it slow. Once you get comfortable with it, start experimenting with differant speeds. I usually run mine at about 2000 rpm, depending on what im using. Im assuming you already know the basic steps for a full correction. Just be patient with your machine, do all the research you have to do, stock up on differant pads and products, and go to town on those practice panels you mentioned. I personally use a wool pad for compound, blue foam for polish or glaze, and white for wax or sealant, but they make a TON of differant pads. Good luck :bigups

BTW, watch holding your rotary upside down to get rocker panels. Its a sure-fire way to rip the power cord out :wall

 

[tuscarora dave]

@mrclean81: I've been using a rotary practicing on hoods and fenders that I get from the junk yard. It's going to take some practice for me to get it right.

I want to be able to offer my customers a little more. Many of them have been asking about it, so I want to be able to offer that service to them.

Pay particular attention to the edges on your salvage yard test panels. If there is a sharper edge on one of the hoods (like a dip or a raise) try to get a feel for how quickly the rotary can cut through the paint on edges. It is better to get a feel for this on junk panels than on a customer's car. It can literally happen in 1 second in some situations.

The direction of the rotation of the pad is very important in these situations. You always want the rotation to travel off of the edge and not up on to the edge. When your pad rotation travels up on to and bites into a sharp edge it can cut through in a heart beat.

Below is a pic of a hood with the kind of sharp edge that I am talking about.

Note how the center panel in this hood is lower than the left and right sides of the hood. I will call the center the low side and the outer part on each side the high side.

On a hood like this you want to work the high sides first and "ensure" that while working on the left high side, the side of your pad that is rotating from left to right (the side farthest from the machine's handle assuming you are standing in front of the car) rotates off the high side in the direction of the low side. This ensures that the pad doesn't bite into the edge and remove all the paint from it.

Now lets suppose you are polishing the same left high side of this hood while standing in front of the car and you are running real close to or right on the edge as described above. If you would tilt the handle of your rotary down closer to the hood, this would cause the rotation of the pad to travel from the low side up onto the high side and it would bite into the edge. It would most likely bite in and kick the rotary back toward the center of the hood. The damage would have already have been done though.

As quickly as the pad would bite into the edge and kick back the polisher, it can cut clean into the primer that quickly on most softer paints.

I suggest that you try to find a hood with an edge like the one pictured above and play around polishing the edge, keeping in mind that this type of edge can catch you by surprise and be easily damaged. This is all tough to understand in just reading about it. If I were there with you I could show you very quickly what I am attempting to describe. Good luck and keep practicing.

 

[Beemerboy]

I thought that detailing was paint / clear coat correction

 

[tuscarora dave]

I thought that detailing was paint / clear coat correction

It seems that in my area that is not understood by 99% of the population. Sad but true, there are a ton of wash and wax guys calling themselves detailers. This provides a definate edge for me when I start marketing my services.:bigups

 

[njcarting1]

Pay particular attention to the edges on your salvage yard test panels. If there is a sharper edge on one of the hoods (like a dip or a raise) try to get a feel for how quickly the rotary can cut through the paint on edges. It is better to get a feel for this on junk panels than on a customer's car. It can literally happen in 1 second in some situations.

The direction of the rotation of the pad is very important in these situations. You always want the rotation to travel off of the edge and not up on to the edge. When your pad rotation travels up on to and bites into a sharp edge it can cut through in a heart beat.

Below is a pic of a hood with the kind of sharp edge that I am talking about.

Note how the center panel in this hood is lower than the left and right sides of the hood. I will call the center the low side and the outer part on each side the high side.

On a hood like this you want to work the high sides first and "ensure" that while working on the left high side, the side of your pad that is rotating from left to right (the side farthest from the machine's handle assuming you are standing in front of the car) rotates off the high side in the direction of the low side. This ensures that the pad doesn't bite into the edge and remove all the paint from it.

Now lets suppose you are polishing the same left high side of this hood while standing in front of the car and you are running real close to or right on the edge as described above. If you would tilt the handle of your rotary down closer to the hood, this would cause the rotation of the pad to travel from the low side up onto the high side and it would bite into the edge. It would most likely bite in and kick the rotary back toward the center of the hood. The damage would have already have been done though.

As quickly as the pad would bite into the edge and kick back the polisher, it can cut clean into the primer that quickly on most softer paints.

I suggest that you try to find a hood with an edge like the one pictured above and play around polishing the edge, keeping in mind that this type of edge can catch you by surprise and be easily damaged. This is all tough to understand in just reading about it. If I were there with you I could show you very quickly what I am attempting to describe. Good luck and keep practicing.

Park the car you want to wax between 2 trucks, that way ya got high low and mid sized all covered. The car should look nice after you have completed all the heights and angels...:rofl:wall:rofl:rofl

Just practice on different makes and models you will see the difference. Its not rocket science its lots of practice, and knowing what product to use next.:cheers:

 

[DT08]

@tuscarora dave: The first fender I worked on I went through that paint so fast it blew my mind. Good thing it was a $10 fender.....lol.

@mrclean81: I'm experimenting with so many different pads and glazes it's crazy. My speed control is getting better. I've been at for almost three weeks now. Hopefully by next summer I can offer this service.

I was going to make the business official this year, but I want to make sure all of my ducks are in a row as far as the services I can offer.

Good information people!