Mother's Scratch Remover-Recommended!

SilverLexus

SilverLexus

Super Enthusiast
I got a bad stone ship on the Lexus last week and I decided to try another Mothers product - Scratch Remover.



I apologize for not having pictures...anyway this product worked very well for me. You wash the surface, rub in from all different angles and then buf off with an MF.



End result? The scratch was definitely much lighter and less noticeable and very smoothed out. The scratch was deep enough to leave a 1-2mm deep cut so the remover could not take the cut out but the entire area cleaned up nicely.



If you have a scratch issue, I highly recommend this product.
 
I used it long ago, it just wouldn't do anything for my Caddy paint, much how Scratch X won't do anything for it or the Audi. The products will perform based on the type of paint you have I suppose.



Herer's an interesting test to conduct: the Mothers vs. Scratch X.
 
When I work by hand I use the same compounds and polishes that use with the PC. 3M Perfect it II and III Rubbing Compounds and Machine Glaze work great by hand. I even get good results with Menzerna by hand. I found Mothers Scratch Remover and Scratch X could only remove very minor defects.
 
It may that Mothers and Megs wants to be careful about offering stronger polish strength to its consumer base...
 
SilverLexus said:
It may that Mothers and Megs wants to be careful about offering stronger polish strength to its consumer base...
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That IS the reason. They don't want Joe Blow to haze up or over polish their paint and then blame them. By default it is better for them to offer less aggressive products and reserve the rest for the "pro" market.



Scratch removers are still fairly gentle, but they are easier to find and buy, and will work on less serious problems. They're good products to recommend to "non-Autopian" people to try and correct problems themselves and, like most things, has its place.
 
4DSC said:
That IS the reason. They don't want Joe Blow to haze up or over polish their paint and then blame them. By default it is better for them to offer less aggressive products and reserve the rest for the "pro" market.



Scratch removers are still fairly gentle, but they are easier to find and buy, and will work on less serious problems. They're good products to recommend to "non-Autopian" people to try and correct problems themselves and, like most things, has its place.
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But think of the flip side:



What if the product doesn't do squat for the consumer? ( I'm a perfect example) Then the consumer will blast the mfr for making a crummy product.



It seems nothing can substitute education about defect removal. This is valid for Joe Average and Mr. Pro as well. I'd focus on trying to teach basic defect removal perhaps through websites, brochures, in store signage,etc to the general public in an easy, uncomplicated matter which would ideally result in the ability to sell products that successfully meet their expectations every time :up
 
Scratch products are the worst at teaching and training about. Even starting with the name, which is a misnomer (you can't REMOVE a scratch, because a scratch is where the paint is GONE).



For best results, I'd suggest starting with a terry cloth applicator, clean surface and product. It requires light pressure (this is where most folks screw up, they use too much pressure and mar the paint) and lots of repetitions.



Work the area from every angle possible - up, down, side to side and diagonal. Use plenty of product.



Then, switch to a foam pad and do it again to further reduce any marring you may have introduced.



Try putting all of that on the back label that's less than 3" by 5".



The great majority of unhappy users I've run into have fallen into 3 camps:



1) scratch is down to bare metal, and they expect the product to put paint back on the car



2) they rub way too hard with a crummy towel and mar the surface beyond belief



3) they rubbed for 10 seconds and expected the area to look like new
 
it's also true not all paints are the same, some are harder,softer older, thinner,etc than others and sometimes some will repond to this kind of product better than others.
 
1) scratch is down to bare metal, and they expect the product to put paint back on the car
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Wow, I did not know that - that's where I am going wrong.



On my Lexus RX, the paint sucks. I have rock chips the

size of pencil head (and new ones are continuing to appear)

and they ain't no mere scratches - the chips are down to primer.

I am distraught.....
 
forrest said:
Scratch products are the worst at teaching and training about. Even starting with the name, which is a misnomer (you can't REMOVE a scratch, because a scratch is where the paint is GONE).



For best results, I'd suggest starting with a terry cloth applicator, clean surface and product. It requires light pressure (this is where most folks screw up, they use too much pressure and mar the paint) and lots of repetitions.



Work the area from every angle possible - up, down, side to side and diagonal. Use plenty of product.



Then, switch to a foam pad and do it again to further reduce any marring you may have introduced.



Try putting all of that on the back label that's less than 3" by 5".



The great majority of unhappy users I've run into have fallen into 3 camps:



1) scratch is down to bare metal, and they expect the product to put paint back on the car



2) they rub way too hard with a crummy towel and mar the surface beyond belief



3) they rubbed for 10 seconds and expected the area to look like new
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I totally agree. I got the mothers scratch remover and so far I am very happy. It should be common sense from the user that a scratch down to the metal is not going to be removed with any kind of chemical.



Forrest, I have used it by hand, and as you mention repetition is key. Can I use an orbital to apply it? Foam or terry cloth bonnet?



Thanks
 
Alex - yes, you can use Scratch Removers with a random orbital. I'd suggest a foam bonnet over terry cloth so there is less chance of marring. But, it will work slower.
 
forrest said:
Alex - yes, you can use Scratch Removers wit a random orbital. I'd suggest a foam bonnet over terry cloth so there is less chance of marring. But, it will work slower.
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Really? I thought it would work faster being repetition the key? If it works faster, I am thinking of using it as a cleaner or swirl remover ;)



Why do you think it works slower by machine?
 
forrest said:
I'd suggest a foam bonnet over terry cloth so there is less chance of marring. But, it will work slower.
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Quote from AlexRuiz:

"Why do you think it works slower by machine?"







I think Forrest means that foam will work slower than terry bonnets, not machine vs. hand.
 
Thanks goodness BigLeegr knows what I meant to say.



A foam bonnet will work slower (and safer) than a terry cloth one when using a scratch remover.



BTW, this only applies to RO, not DA machines, since you can purchase different types of pads (with various levels of aggressiveness) for a DA
 
BigLeegr said:
Quote from AlexRuiz:

"Why do you think it works slower by machine?"







I think Forrest means that foam will work slower than terry bonnets, not machine vs. hand.
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Oh, I get it... :xyxthumbs



I feel so dumb :o ;)
 
It's just recommended for spots. I too thought the Scratch Remover was very good for reducing the prominance of larger scratches.
 
Sherman8r44 said:
You prolly want Powerpolish if you're going to do the entire car, though.
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True. But only if you were using a pc. If you were going to try by hand, I would say the Scratch Remover would give you better results.
 
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