Mobile Oil Change Business

DutrowLLC

New member
I am thinking about starting a mobile oil change business this winter. Does anyone know anything about this? I've been doing some research and found that the profit margins are tighter and a strict route and steady customers are necessary, but the work is much more steady. Any knowledge would be appreciated.



Thanks!



Chris

SharpDetail.com
 
I wonder if it'd be worth your time considering how little places like Mr Lube charge and how fast they get you through. Make sure you get all your numbers in order and figure out how many cars you'd have to do per week/day to make it worth your time.
 
It could depend on where you are located. Where I live, the business property taxes are quite high which would give a mobile operation an advantage.
 
Sounds interesting. get your numbers in line. IF you can only get, say $35 per oil change, and your traveling from home to home. Working an 8 hour day. I bet you wood be lucky o get in maybe 6 cars a day if everything goes smoothly. 6x$35=$210, gross. $210x5days/week=$1050 gross per week. I dont know what you could get away with chargeing per oil change. I wouldnt spend any more than $40 myself if I could take my car down the street for $30. Remember you'll need insurance, tools, work vehicle, and old oil disposal. Plus you would have to carry quite a bit of inventory( oil, oil filters, etc.) Sounds like it could work.
 
You'd definitely have to up your insurance. Some cars are also pretty hard to work on, others, like the first generation Expiditions, have the filter in a very accessible spot.
 
Like others have said, the profit margins would be very slim. Most people will just go to a quick lube because it usually only takes about 10min anyways.

As Scott said, some cars are a real PITA! For example, all Audi, VW, Mercedes, BMW and some Saturns, older GM trucks (4wd), Nissan PUs, Toyota PUs, Toyota cars, some older Caddilacs and thats only the ones that stick out.

Also think about how much stuff you would use to do the oil change. Say oil on average about 4 qts @ $2 per qt and filter @ $5, then you would need either degreaser or brake clean, and rags, so lets say about $15 per car is the cost. So is it really worth it?

Oh ya and you would need tools too.

Tools:

Wrenches (metric 13-22)

Ratchet, extensions and sockets (8-17)

Allen heads (not sure what size)

Oil wrenches

Thread cleaners

Re-threaders (if you strip a plug) and over sized plugs

Temp. plugs (just in case you really mess up)

New oil plugs

New gaskets

Filter sockets/cups (for canister filters and others that are only acessable with a filter cup) (adjustable would be good too)

Oil reset tool for BMWs (not cheap)

Books that give quantity, oil type, etc.

wrags

degreaser

brake clean

washer fluid (if you want to offer top offs)

powersteering fluid (if you want to offer top offs)

flashlight

funnel

Coolant (three types, green, dexcool and chrysler/ford coolant)

Tranny fluid (maybe, if you want to offer top offs)

Catch trays (at least two)

Gloves

Fender cover

Burn sleeve (you'll want that for toyotas that are hot)



Then you would need air filters, oil filters, oil, tranny fluid, gear lube, etc.



BTW I work at a quick lube.
 
I've found Mercedes and Toyota to be the easiest to change oil on. Go to a marine supply place and get a oil drain pump. Basically, you stick the tube down the dipstick into the oil pan, turn the motor on, and suck it out. Never have to get under the car. Makes it easy to change the oil on a boat because a lot of the time the drain pan really isn't too accessible. There has been much debate about the effectiveness of this versus the traditional method, but it seems that it really doens't make a difference. The main thing is that the oil is changed.



Now, you're going to need a variety of different weights of oil in stock, and your going to need a source for filters. Of course, most autoparts stores will sell junk like frams, which you should avoid. I mean, if they are paying more than they would pay at EZLUBE, make it worth it. You can usually arrange a commerical account with any auto parts store and get discounts for buying oil in bulk. Make sure they have a variety of synthetics in different weights too.
 
You'll probably need to spend a chunk on software. Most people want service records, so you want to be able to give them a nice invoice and be able to track it for them (so you can keep up on who needs another oil change). As Scott mentioned, some cars are just a bear to work on. My car is one of the easiest cars in the world to change the oil on, but it's one of the hardest cars in the world to jack up (takes two people, one to lift on the fender while the other puts the jack under it). Oil changes can get messy as well, so you really have to have something to make sure you dont stain someone's driveway/garage with any splatter or spillage. Best of luck with whatever you decide.
 
I assume ramps would be a better choice for quick easy oil changes. But what if your customer lives on a hill, has an uneven dirt driveway. Seems to me that there will be lots of variables that will make everyday a challange. You would have to decide if its worth it or not.
 
DanoWatt said:
I've found Mercedes and Toyota to be the easiest to change oil on. Go to a marine supply place and get a oil drain pump. Basically, you stick the tube down the dipstick into the oil pan, turn the motor on, and suck it out. Never have to get under the car. Makes it easy to change the oil on a boat because a lot of the time the drain pan really isn't too accessible. There has been much debate about the effectiveness of this versus the traditional method, but it seems that it really doens't make a difference. The main thing is that the oil is changed.

.

A good deal of Mercedes have skid plates, drain plugs that are very easy to strip, and canister filters.

Most toyota cars have the filter right under the exhaust manifold (which sucks when hot!) and if its on really tight then its a PITA to get leverage to loosen it.

Most toyota trucks have skid plates (metal and heavy) and smaller trucks have the filter you have to access through the wheel well and its hard to get leverage.



Some Mercedes and some Toyotas are easy though.
 
Here's an article about mobile mechanics, detailers, etc in a suburb in arizona - upper middle class to lower upper class incomes I'd say. Cheap 2000sq ft new houses in the area are upwards of 350K. Just so you know what the rates vs the income levels are. People do pay for convenience.



http://www.azcentral.com/community/gilbert/articles/1220gr-mobilebiz20Z12.html



On the list of things you'd also need to add to your shopping list - driveway cleaner and scrub brush for in case you spill oil.

An inventory of filters and such probably wouldn't be a big deal as you could always ask the person the year/make/model of their car when you make the appointment and then buy the proper supplies for the job.
 
Reflections said:
I wonder if it'd be worth your time considering how little places like Mr Lube charge and how fast they get you through.



Yeah, I take my Honda to Jiffy Lube for the past decade and with the coupons I get for each oild change, it costs me something like $24.00. And that includes their courtesy vacuum, window cleaning, windshield washer fluid top off and tire pressure check which I decline :lol



I'm there for about 15 minutes maximum.
 
Pontman43 said:
A good deal of Mercedes have skid plates, drain plugs that are very easy to strip, and canister filters.

Most toyota cars have the filter right under the exhaust manifold (which sucks when hot!) and if its on really tight then its a PITA to get leverage to loosen it.

Most toyota trucks have skid plates (metal and heavy) and smaller trucks have the filter you have to access through the wheel well and its hard to get leverage.



Some Mercedes and some Toyotas are easy though.



Which is why I advised using a fluid pump to suck it out the dipstick. Never have to get under the car. Canister filters are pretty easy once you do it once or twice.
 
All the current Honda V6 cars are easy as well. You can see the filter on the right side with the wheels turned to the right and can remove it without getting under. Drain plugs are all easily accessed.
 
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