meguiar's products...

I

imported_Ivan Rajic

New member
i wanted some input on what to order next...



for a while, i've been using meguiar's #4, #2, #9 and #3, followed by klasse



after browsing the forums here for a few days, i've been hearing good things about the other meguiar's products though, particularly #83, #80 and only one that i've been using which is #3



i wanted to order some supplies from meguiar's and i wanted to get the products based on their table of cutting power (one that is on their bottles) so i figured i would go with #84 (in case i need it because i've needed it in the past), #1, #2, #9, and #3... basically the odd numbers on the "cutting-chart"



after reading the forums though, like i said, i'm thinking of geting #83 and #80 either in addition to my list (84,1,2,9,3) or as a substitute for some of those on the list



i really like #9 because it takes out a lot of the smaller/lighter swirls so that i don't have to use anything more abrasive on the paint, and i'm afraid if i substitute #80 for #9, i will introduce a bit more hazing into the paint and then need to use #9 after anyway



i also like the #2 but wouldn't mind replacing it with #83 because 1. i heard very good things about it, and 2. i usually go over it with a less abrasive polish (#9), so if any hazing appears from #83, it should be gone after #9



so, right now i'm thinking of getting #84, #83, #80, #9 and #3...



what do you guys think and what polishes do you guys suggest i order??



EDIT: i recently heard that #9 has some fillers so i think i'll replace #9 completely with #82, unless you guys think it's fine to use #9, then #3, then klasse???





also, i noticed that #9 and #82 have the same cutting power according to meg's chart, so i was wondering what differences are there between the two??



lastly, i'm planning on getting the #7 show car glaze because i've also heard great things about it and looked at photos where cars look amazing after a #7 application...

my question about it is... do i seal it with klasse or is it a sealant itself ?? am i fine using aio and sg after #7 has been wiped off??



thanks a lot in advance and sorry for such a long post, i just had these questions on my mind and had to ask

thanks again,

ivan
 
I say go for 21 sealant I assume you use a PC with all those cleaners you have although 21 can be applied by hand.

Put 21 on paint let sit on for 45 min to an hour remove with towel or use ultimate MF bonnet from Meg's let cure on paint for 12hrs before applying 2nd coat same way as 1st coat you will be good to go.
 
I would replace #80 with #82. #82 will remove some defects and it will polish your paint beautifully.



Derrick
 
lecchilo- FWIW I don't use Meg's stuff before AIO, instead I use polishes that don't leave anything behind. With Meg's stuff, the AIO cleans off the "trade secret oils" and often reveals hidden, residual marring. I use stuff like the Meg's products under carnaubas (you can use them under other Meguiar's LSPs too but I don't use those).



Sorta-random thoughts on some of the products you mentioned follow:



#82 is just a slightly different version of #9, different abrasives of a more uniform nature that're better on clearcoats than the old-school abrasives in #9.



#80 can be a tiny bit too abrasive on some very soft paints.



If #2 is working for you I don't see any reason to switch to #83.



Don't try stuff like #84 without a rotary, it's not PC/hand friendly.



#3 is a functionally nonabrasive "pure polish". Same with #7 which is sorta a richer/slightly different version of the same kind of stuff. #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal step #2...all pretty much alike. I'd be astounded if KSG bonded to #7 (which I do like under carnaubas on single stage paint).



Meguiar's hates it when people say "fillers" but in my experience all the polishes you mentioned (at least the ones I've tried) do a fair amount of, well, let's say "concealing". It's the "trade secret oils" or something...but in my experience it *does* do some hiding.



AIO is a potent (chemical, hardly abrasive at all) paint cleaner that provides some minimal protection. KSG is a sealant. KSG bonds well to AIO but not to many other products.



I'd go with polishes from Hi-Temp, Menzerna/BlackFire, and others long before I'd choose Meguiar's...and I have the Meguiar's stuff on the shelf and I used it for years so I'm speaking from first-hand experience. If you like it, cool, many do...but not me.
 
Derrick said:
I would replace #80 with #82. #82 will remove some defects and it will polish your paint beautifully.



Derrick
Click to expand...



I agree. #82 is an excellent product and finishes very nice which allows you to go to an LSP. I was using #9 at first and getting decent results, but once I switched to #82 my results were even better. A combination of #83, #82 and one of their LSP's makes for a good combination for a reasonable price that's more than likely available locally.
 
mongo said:
I say go for 21 sealant I assume you use a PC with all those cleaners you have although 21 can be applied by hand.

Put 21 on paint let sit on for 45 min to an hour remove with towel or use ultimate MF bonnet from Meg's let cure on paint for 12hrs before applying 2nd coat same way as 1st coat you will be good to go.
Click to expand...



are you saying use 21 (is that meg's) instead of the #7??

the reason i ask is because i was mostly concerned to find out about the polishes mentioned above and not sealants/waxes



thanks though
 
Also you might try Danase Speed Glaze wets the paint like Meg's # 7 but is acrylic/polymer hiobrid you can LSP over. Has slight abrasives cleaner in it but very slight you can put over a sealant as well then put LSP on top again.
 
Derrick said:
I would replace #80 with #82. #82 will remove some defects and it will polish your paint beautifully.



Derrick
Click to expand...



well, i will replace #9 with #82, and keep #80 but follow it up with #82 if necessary

reason for that is i heard #9 has fillers, more than others if others do too, and #82 also finishes better than #9
 
Accumulator said:
lecchilo- FWIW I don't use Meg's stuff before AIO, instead I use polishes that don't leave anything behind. With Meg's stuff, the AIO cleans off the "trade secret oils" and often reveals hidden, residual marring. I use stuff like the Meg's products under carnaubas (you can use them under other Meguiar's LSPs too but I don't use those).



Sorta-random thoughts on some of the products you mentioned follow:



#82 is just a slightly different version of #9, different abrasives of a more uniform nature that're better on clearcoats than the old-school abrasives in #9.



#80 can be a tiny bit too abrasive on some very soft paints.



If #2 is working for you I don't see any reason to switch to #83.



Don't try stuff like #84 without a rotary, it's not PC/hand friendly.



#3 is a functionally nonabrasive "pure polish". Same with #7 which is sorta a richer/slightly different version of the same kind of stuff. #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal step #2...all pretty much alike. I'd be astounded if KSG bonded to #7 (which I do like under carnaubas on single stage paint).



Meguiar's hates it when people say "fillers" but in my experience all the polishes you mentioned (at least the ones I've tried) do a fair amount of, well, let's say "concealing". It's the "trade secret oils" or something...but in my experience it *does* do some hiding.



AIO is a potent (chemical, hardly abrasive at all) paint cleaner that provides some minimal protection. KSG is a sealant. KSG bonds well to AIO but not to many other products.



I'd go with polishes from Hi-Temp, Menzerna/BlackFire, and others long before I'd choose Meguiar's...and I have the Meguiar's stuff on the shelf and I used it for years so I'm speaking from first-hand experience. If you like it, cool, many do...but not me.
Click to expand...



great info, thanks for the reply... i will definitely replace #9 with #82 and keep #2 since i like it so much

klasse has worked great for me after meg's but i will definitely try to change it up and use meg's finishers after their polishers, and use other polishes before klasse

what do you think of poorboy's or 3m products before klasse?? i really want to try and hear great things about the poorboy's line of polishes, since it has a nice variety of cutting power and also finishes good

thanks again
 
mongo said:
Also you might try Danase Speed Glaze wets the paint like Meg's # 7 but is acrylic/polymer hiobrid you can LSP over. Has slight abrasives cleaner in it but very slight you can put over a sealant as well then put LSP on top again.
Click to expand...



what's LSP ?
 
lecchilo said:
what do you think of poorboy's or 3m products before klasse??
Click to expand...



From what I hear, both the 3M and Poorboys do light filling, so it wouldn't be any real benifit to use those over the Meg's. Try some Menzerna or Optimum, both leave great finishes(I think Menzerna leaves the best), as both of those have NO fillers or don't do hardly any filling.
 
[quote name='Accumulator']

#7 (which I do like under carnaubas on single stage paint).

/QUOTE]



Meguiars, Mosca I think, and others have said something like "use #7 on single stage, #81 on base/clearcoat". Would you or anyone please explain this, in terms of the final appearance? (I can't see any difference.)



#7 is brown, and I think it has brown oils in it.

#81 is grey, and I think its oils are clear.



I'm guessing that #7 is a little more opaque, and decreases clarity, sitting on top of a cc.



I found both very easy to use.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
From what I hear, both the 3M and Poorboys do light filling, so it wouldn't be any real benifit to use those over the Meg's. Try some Menzerna or Optimum, both leave great finishes(I think Menzerna leaves the best), as both of those have NO fillers or don't do hardly any filling.
Click to expand...



no no, i meant 3m or poorboy's instead of meg's not over it haha

i meant those 2 before klasse... i guess i'll try menzerna soon

thanks
 
klasse has worked great for me after meg's but i will definitely try to change it up and use meg's finishers after their polishers, and use other polishes before klasse
Click to expand...



If something's working for you I wouldn't change it based on what I or anyone else says ;)





Meguiars, Mosca I think, and others have said something like "use #7 on single stage, #81 on base/clearcoat". Would you or anyone please explain this, in terms of the final appearance? (I can't see any difference.)
Click to expand...



#7 has more oils in it and that can be beneficial on ss. I suspect it's because ss is generally more porous/less impermeable than b/c. #7 is a little trickier to use than the other "pure polishes" but yeah, it *does* look a little better to most people on most paints.



#5 is probably the least impressive looking one, but I like it because it's absolutely idiot-proof. #3 is another one I like, don't worry about the "machine" in the name, it works fine by hand too.



The few times I tried using #7 and #3 on b/c it was on *very* good condition Audi paint. The polishes just sat on top of the paint and then wiped right off like I hadn't done *anything*. No pores/micro-fissures/etc. for the oils to get into and find a toe-hold I guess :nixweiss Whatever was going on, it was a waste of time and product but that's just a very specific situation that might not apply to anybody else.



#5 works well enough on b/c and is what I use on still-curing repaints. Unlike most Meg's polishes you can let 35 dry completely before wiping it off. It works OK for hiding flaws on imperfect b/c at least it works better for me than the aforementined #3/#5 did.



Somehow I just never got excited about #81 but that's just me and I've been using the other three for *so* long (30 years :eek: ) that familiarity probably colors my judgment. So don't let my pereferences turn you off what might be a good product for you.



what do you think of poorboy's or 3m products before klasse?? i really want to try and hear great things about the poorboy's line of polishes, since it has a nice variety of cutting power and also finishes good
Click to expand...



I've never tried any PoorBoy's stuff. There are a zillion different 3M products so you can't really generalize too much. I like the discontinued (but still available) PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. These are what I always use before the Klasse twins and I've never seen any indication that they do any filling. I like these two a lot and they're probably the two abrasive products I use more than all the others combined (and I use a lot of different stuff ;) ). I don't like any other 3M polishes/compounds, though the PI-II FCRC 39002 is OK, just don't breath the dust (silica, very harmful). I used the FI-II polish a few times but didn't like it all that much so I stuck with the PI-III RC/MG, both of which I stockpile by the gallon, enough to last me forever. They really do work great by rotary/PC/Cyclo/hand and I'd keep on recommending them if they were easier to find. Many autobody/paint supply places still have 'em on the shelf.
 
I don't know why you would sub. #82 for #80. You can (and should) go to your LSP after #80 about 95% of the time. I wouldn't even bother with Klasse to be honest with you.



#80 features the same exact oils that are found in #7 (hence they are both brown in apperance). #80 will also leave a marr free finish almost every time (in the case it leaves a little hazing on VERY soft paint) you can follow with #82 and clean it up. #82 is an older product and doesn't have the same oils as #80 or #7, so you may see a boost in apperance by following up with a pure polish such as #3/#5/#7 or #81.



As far as Klasse, its a great product. Its just that it removes the oils in the Meguiars polish, so I think its back tracking. For example, if you finshed with #9 or whatever, then applied #3 (or #7) to get that wet polish look, you could go to a Meg's LSP. However if you apply Klasse, you will totally remove #3 (or #7, or the oils in #80, ect) so its back tracking and removing the beauty that the Meg's leaves behind.



The only time I finish with #82 is when #80 leaves behind Micromarring, like I said, this is rare. Or I will finish a rotary job with #82, because on a rotary it cleans up hologramming very nicely.



I usually finish most of my jobs with #80 by PC, then following with #21...
 
Accumulator said:
If something's working for you I wouldn't change it based on what I or anyone else says ;)









#7 has more oils in it and that can be beneficial on ss. I suspect it's because ss is generally more porous/less impermeable than b/c. #7 is a little trickier to use than the other "pure polishes" but yeah, it *does* look a little better to most people on most paints.



#5 is probably the least impressive looking one, but I like it because it's absolutely idiot-proof. #3 is another one I like, don't worry about the "machine" in the name, it works fine by hand too.



The few times I tried using #7 and #3 on b/c it was on *very* good condition Audi paint. The polishes just sat on top of the paint and then wiped right off like I hadn't done *anything*. No pores/micro-fissures/etc. for the oils to get into and find a toe-hold I guess :nixweiss Whatever was going on, it was a waste of time and product but that's just a very specific situation that might not apply to anybody else.



#5 works well enough on b/c and is what I use on still-curing repaints. Unlike most Meg's polishes you can let 35 dry completely before wiping it off. It works OK for hiding flaws on imperfect b/c at least it works better for me than the aforementined #3/#5 did.



Somehow I just never got excited about #81 but that's just me and I've been using the other three for *so* long (30 years :eek: ) that familiarity probably colors my judgment. So don't let my pereferences turn you off what might be a good product for you.







I've never tried any PoorBoy's stuff. There are a zillion different 3M products so you can't really generalize too much. I like the discontinued (but still available) PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. These are what I always use before the Klasse twins and I've never seen any indication that they do any filling. I like these two a lot and they're probably the two abrasive products I use more than all the others combined (and I use a lot of different stuff ;) ). I don't like any other 3M polishes/compounds, though the PI-II FCRC 39002 is OK, just don't breath the dust (silica, very harmful). I used the FI-II polish a few times but didn't like it all that much so I stuck with the PI-III RC/MG, both of which I stockpile by the gallon, enough to last me forever. They really do work great by rotary/PC/Cyclo/hand and I'd keep on recommending them if they were easier to find. Many autobody/paint supply places still have 'em on the shelf.
Click to expand...



thanks for the info
 
TH0001 said:
I don't know why you would sub. #82 for #80. You can (and should) go to your LSP after #80 about 95% of the time. I wouldn't even bother with Klasse to be honest with you.



#80 features the same exact oils that are found in #7 (hence they are both brown in apperance). #80 will also leave a marr free finish almost every time (in the case it leaves a little hazing on VERY soft paint) you can follow with #82 and clean it up. #82 is an older product and doesn't have the same oils as #80 or #7, so you may see a boost in apperance by following up with a pure polish such as #3/#5/#7 or #81.



As far as Klasse, its a great product. Its just that it removes the oils in the Meguiars polish, so I think its back tracking. For example, if you finshed with #9 or whatever, then applied #3 (or #7) to get that wet polish look, you could go to a Meg's LSP. However if you apply Klasse, you will totally remove #3 (or #7, or the oils in #80, ect) so its back tracking and removing the beauty that the Meg's leaves behind.



The only time I finish with #82 is when #80 leaves behind Micromarring, like I said, this is rare. Or I will finish a rotary job with #82, because on a rotary it cleans up hologramming very nicely.



I usually finish most of my jobs with #80 by PC, then following with #21...
Click to expand...





if you're talking to me, and i assume you are, i never said replace #80 with #82, rather replace #9 with #82... and use the #82 after #80 if necessary...

anyway, i will make a thread with some pics of my dad's 2002 camry's rear left quarter panel that i detailed the other night.. after that, i won't replace #9, just try #82 and compare, because #9 then #3 gave me such good results



oh and as far as klasse... i understand how it's backtracking, but the main reason i like klasse is because it lasts so long, from my experience anyway... it lasted me through the whole winter for about 6 months, 3 coats of SG after AIO

also, the shine klasse takes away after meg's is very minimal, to my eye anyway, that i don't mind it, and it comes back at least that much once i apply a wax on top of SG a week or 2 after the last coat
 
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