Meg's Gold Class+ and Ultimate Protectant Review

J

JimmyCutlass

New member
I got to use the new Gold Class Carnauba Plus two days ago on a 1964 Buick Skylark for a Car show. I used it as a base coat with a top coat of Pinnacle Souveran. Because both look amazing red, it was a match made in heaven. With the longevity of the new Gold Class Plus and the looks of the Souveran, the paint popped, shimmered and reflected amazingly. Many impressed onlookers stood next to the car and marvelled at the glowing red. I applied it via G110 on a 4" LCC finishing pad. I put beads on each of the dimples on the pads, stamped it around a bit on each panel and applied it thin and even on speed 3. It was put on as thin as I could, so thin I could hardly see it. It went on amazingly easily and came off almost as easy. I removed it with an Indigo Edgeless Cobra MF, it only took two (quartered) to wipe off the enormous 60's muscle car. The slickness and the shine was equal to that of the old Gold Class, hopefully the longevity will prove to be much better. I give it 8.5/10



Here's some photographic proof: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...d=1#post398688





Ultimate Protectant has become my new favorite Meguiar's product. It is amazing on literally every surface I've applied it to. I was really blown away when I applied it to the plastic on a customer's 2006 Mazda Speed6 (its been seen in previous threads). It dried so nicely and dressed so evenly and has lasted fairly well so far. I love the way it glosses without becoming greasy and I'm impressed by the fact that it makes textured classic look new. It is easy to apply, especially because it is a lotion. My only real complaint lies not in the actual product, but the bottle. It collects in the cap and ends up dripping down the side (maybe why it has grips ). It makes a great trim restorer (major competitor against Mother's Back to Black). I can't wait to use it on the always weathered trim on my Cutlass. I really like the smell too, like all Meguiar's products. Pics to come. 9.5/10

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....I dunno. I guess I just wasn't that impressed with Meg UP. I think it was due to its thicker, lotion-like characteristics that I found it not so easy to apply on some textured surfaces and nooks/crannies (coverage issues). However, I found that a soft bristle brush helped in those scenarios and saved product. After testing MUP on a section of cladding on my Dad's Avalanche, I was also disappointed to find residue on the painted panel below the section I applied it to after it rained (I made sure to dry buff the plastic to remove all excess product after application). On the plus side, I do like the finish on some trim pieces on my own cars I have tried it on and I have found it to be relatively durable.



Here are a couple of shots taken after application on the Avalanche. You can see the dramatic results (the entire piece looked like the faded section that was untreated):

MUPtest20100128c.jpg


MUPtest20100128b.jpg




This next picture is a week later which included a couple of days of rain:

MUP20100208.jpg




Here's the greasy film on the panel below the treated plastic I mentioned earlier. ....it was faint and hard to capture in a picture so I gently ran my finger on the paintwork (to help smear the residue so it would show up in the shot. ....just left of the Sun's reflection):

MUP20100208a.jpg




I had higher hopes but I still think its a rather decent product. ....and admittedly, I'm still not done experimenting/playing with it. I'm quite anxious to use it more extensively on my Dad's truck. I want to see what multiple applications will do and how well it will hold up. He is supposed to come visit soon since he is long over due for a full detail. ....I'm hoping to give MUP another go on his car when he does.



If you have any tips you found useful regarding MUP, please let me know.
 
Alfisti said:
Probably due to over-application.
Click to expand...
....that might be my first thought as well but as I mentioned, the surfaces were thoroughly buffed with a dry towel to remove any excess product. I only applied one coat but used as much as was needed to ensure adequate coverage (which took some coaxing due to the consistency and texture I was working with). The soft bristle brush I used really helped.
 
I used Pinnacle and Meguiar's foam applicator pads when I applied the UP and I made sure to work it into the surface quite a bit to ensure even coverage and no streaking (like with many dressings, especially on fickle window trim). I didn't even buff off any excess, because there never seemed to be any because of the fact that it dries very quickly. Did you shake the product well before you applied it?
 
JimmyCutlass said:
I used Pinnacle and Meguiar's foam applicator pads when I applied the UP and I made sure to work it into the surface quite a bit to ensure even coverage and no streaking (like with many dressings, especially on fickle window trim). I didn't even buff off any excess, because there never seemed to be any because of the fact that it dries very quickly. Did you shake the product well before you applied it?
Click to expand...


Hi Jimmy,<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p



...yep, I shake it well before each use. I have dozens of foam applicators and on relatively smooth surfaces they do work well with this product. It's just certain textures or nooks and crannies I seem to have a problem with. However, I pretty much got over that hurdle by using a brush to coax it into those harder to reach areas (ie. Like the Avalanche in the pictures or the bumper guard on my DD Forester which has ridges and raised lettering).



<O:p</O:pbtw, I agree with you about how quickly MUP dries. I was experimenting by allowing it to dwell for a little bit on some wiper arms that were faded. I didn’t spread the product very evenly but was going to go back over it with a product-moistened applicator. When I went to wipe the excess off, you could see the uneven swath marks from my lazy first pass which didn’t come off very easily when I tried to buff off the excess (which wasn’t much as you said). This was actually encouraging to me since it revealed that the product actually does leave a good deal of itself behind. I’m playing with consecutive coatings to see if that helps with durability and finish. ….also seeing how it works as a base for 303.



I typically use sealants/AIO’s on trim pieces but there are bits that I still need a dressing-like product for. I’m not done messing around with MUP and will likely finish off the bottle. If it all works out I may end up buying more.<O:p</O:p
 
Kean said:
....that might be my first thought as well but as I mentioned, the surfaces were thoroughly buffed with a dry towel to remove any excess product. I only applied one coat but used as much as was needed to ensure adequate coverage (which took some coaxing due to the consistency and texture I was working with). The soft bristle brush I used really helped.
Click to expand...

Based on what's been said over at MOL, the initial application amount is more critical than how well it's buffed after. In fact, they say if the initial application is spot-on, you won't need any buffing. That to me suggests that you over-applied if you needed to buff. They say a little goes a long way but needs to massaged in, rather wiped over like regular dressings. I hope this helps. :up
 
Alfisti said:
Based on what's been said over at MOL, the initial application amount is more critical than how well it's buffed after. In fact, they say if the initial application is spot-on, you won't need any buffing. That to me suggests that you over-applied if you needed to buff. They say a little goes a long way but needs to massaged in, rather wiped over like regular dressings. I hope this helps. :up
Click to expand...
I will admit the spreadability issues I encountered on surfaces like the Avalanche did require a little more product than what I thought should have been required. I made sure to thouroughly "buff" the sections I applied to ensure there was no excess product left on the surface(s). ....instructions on the bottle state to "wipe off excess".



My Dad's truck was the first application I used MUP on. Since then I have been using it on things like the cowling & rear bumper gaurd of my DD and the cowling/rockers of my weekend car with good results. I understand the "massaging" idea but certain textures/angles I just can't seem to coax the product into very easily. However, now that I have had the chance to use it a few more times, I'm going to give it another go on the Avalanche when he comes to visit. That was the main reason I bought MUP. ....in an effort to find a longer lasting, non-running, user friendly product that my Dad could use to maintain all of those plastic bits on his truck.



Thanks for the input. It does help.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Michael Stoops recently posted a good thread on proper application of MUP. ;)



How to apply Ultimate Protectant - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online
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....thanks for the link. I have been using MUP for similar items on my own cars with good results. Follow up applications seem even easier requiring less product. I'm going to keep working at my technique with MUP.



Thanks again for all the input Jimmy, Alf, Rasky. ....and sorry for the hijack.
 
Haven't used the UP but I put some Gold Class Carnauba Plus on my black Mustang and am very impressed so far. Paste was very easy to use and left a rich, deep, wet looking shine. Easy to maintain w/ a California Car duster and a mf towel.
 
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