How to remove FK1000P?
- Thread starter PAW
- Start date
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Hand polishing should easily remove even a good sealant like that.
Setec Astronomy:
Is Finish Kare`s FK1000P a "wax" or a "sealant", as you have called it? I guess it is a matter of semantics and what exactly defines a Last-Step Product (a.k.a., LSP as this forum has designated such products) as a "wax and a "sealant". In the scope of things, does it REALLY matter?
NO, not in this case. The Original Poster, PAW, just wants to know how to remove it from his/her wheels in the future.
My suggestion is to use a strong solvent, like mineral spirits or even 3M`s Part #03984 Gen Purp. Adhesive Remover , followed by a wipe-down of Optimum`s Power Clean all-purpose cleaner (APC)/degreaser undiluted (ie, full strength) and then a car wash soap-, like Optimum`s Car Wash Soap,and- water wash to remove said FK1000P. Overkill? MAYBE, if one wants to avoid doing a hand polish.
I assume this removal is being done with the wheel (rim and tire assy) removed from the car brake spindle/axle to access the backside mounting area and the spokes with those small crevasses and cavities present in modern rim designs and manufacturing, based on the pic for just the rim in the OP`s post. Cotton swaps (aka, Q-tips) or geometric-shaped foam-tipped swabs are invaluable and necessary for getting into and cleaning those small, tight areas.
[Oh yeah, Captain Obvious: THE Obsessive-Compulsive Detailer (aka, OCD)]
Question to PAW:
How good is FK1000P a wheel wax protectant in your opinion and experience? IE, how long does it last and does it standup to the brake dust cleaners you use for washing rims [wheels (More semantics!)]? Did Autopian self-professed FK1000P advocate Accumulator influence your decision in using it on your rims (wheels)?
Is Finish Kare`s FK1000P a "wax" or a "sealant", as you have called it? I guess it is a matter of semantics and what exactly defines a Last-Step Product (a.k.a., LSP as this forum has designated such products) as a "wax and a "sealant". In the scope of things, does it REALLY matter?
NO, not in this case. The Original Poster, PAW, just wants to know how to remove it from his/her wheels in the future.
My suggestion is to use a strong solvent, like mineral spirits or even 3M`s Part #03984 Gen Purp. Adhesive Remover , followed by a wipe-down of Optimum`s Power Clean all-purpose cleaner (APC)/degreaser undiluted (ie, full strength) and then a car wash soap-, like Optimum`s Car Wash Soap,and- water wash to remove said FK1000P. Overkill? MAYBE, if one wants to avoid doing a hand polish.
I assume this removal is being done with the wheel (rim and tire assy) removed from the car brake spindle/axle to access the backside mounting area and the spokes with those small crevasses and cavities present in modern rim designs and manufacturing, based on the pic for just the rim in the OP`s post. Cotton swaps (aka, Q-tips) or geometric-shaped foam-tipped swabs are invaluable and necessary for getting into and cleaning those small, tight areas.
[Oh yeah, Captain Obvious: THE Obsessive-Compulsive Detailer (aka, OCD)]
Question to PAW:
How good is FK1000P a wheel wax protectant in your opinion and experience? IE, how long does it last and does it standup to the brake dust cleaners you use for washing rims [wheels (More semantics!)]? Did Autopian self-professed FK1000P advocate Accumulator influence your decision in using it on your rims (wheels)?
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Heck, I don`t know, I`ve never used it. However, as to your solvent/soap method, there was a long thread here or at AGO, starring SwanicYouth, and the UK detailing products chemist PiPUK, about how difficult it is to remove sealants at least with Dawn and IPA, which is why I suggested a mechanical method.
Desertnate
Active member
By all accounts FK1000P is pretty durable stuff. Rather than trying to figure out how best to remove it, I`d simply wait until it had worn off naturally.
Wheels area much harsher environment than the painted surface of the car, so your wait to try a new product on the wheels may not be as long as you think.
Wheels area much harsher environment than the painted surface of the car, so your wait to try a new product on the wheels may not be as long as you think.
I`m trying to avoid that. I just envision hours of cramped hands.
FK calls it a wax.
Just FYI, I`m a guy.
Yeah, a solvent or chemical solution is what I`m looking for. I doubt IPA would touch it.
Yep, I`d remove the wheel. It just makes life easier.
I`ll let you know in about a year how good FK1000P is.
Yes, Accumulator influenced by decision.
I did read other reviews. I figured this was easier to get into the nooks and crannies than a ceramic coating would be. I`ve got some small foam paint brushes to use. I`ve never done a ceramic coating but it seems like getting an even coat takes a little skill or practice. Again the nooks and crannies made me think twice. The Adams UV ceramic and graphene coating peaked my interest. The UV flashlight should help with the even coat issue. Their store / warehouse isn`t far from me.I bet it doesn`t wear off evenly. So, you wind up with protected and unprotected areas. I don`t plan on changing it out in a month. More like 6-12 months. We`ll see how it holds up.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
I feel you on that one, but it`s not like polishing swirls out. Honestly I would coat them, the same foam brushes you are planning to use for the FK could be used for the coating. The thing with wheels is if you`ve got high spots in nooks and crannies, they won`t be noticeable.
Accumulator
Well-known member
As noted, FK1000P is a snythetic paste "wax", i.e., a paste sealant. It can be removed with a potent APC but a mile solvent will work better. The kind of mild Finishing Polishes that are too gentle to do much on (most) wheels will strip it off, but IMO that`d be a lot harder.
Heh heh, I`d expect IPA to just "clean the wax" rather than "clean it *off* "
but I`ve never tried it. Hey, not like it was effective on Collinite, in fact, that "IPA cleans the wax" came from somebody here who *insisted* that rather than stripping it, it`d just lightly rejuvenate it. FWIW, his suggested test, which I never tried, was to drop a piece of the [LSP in question] into a cup of IPA and see what happens.
FWIW, I never did go back to using a Coating on my wheels because the FK is so much quicker/easier and lasts plenty long enough...well, long enough for us, but we`re not driving much these days.
PAW- I sure hope the FK works as well for you as it does for me, and I hope you`ll report back either way.
Heh heh, I`d expect IPA to just "clean the wax" rather than "clean it *off* "
but I`ve never tried it. Hey, not like it was effective on Collinite, in fact, that "IPA cleans the wax" came from somebody here who *insisted* that rather than stripping it, it`d just lightly rejuvenate it. FWIW, his suggested test, which I never tried, was to drop a piece of the [LSP in question] into a cup of IPA and see what happens.FWIW, I never did go back to using a Coating on my wheels because the FK is so much quicker/easier and lasts plenty long enough...well, long enough for us, but we`re not driving much these days.
PAW- I sure hope the FK works as well for you as it does for me, and I hope you`ll report back either way.
salty
Active member
I cleaned a brand new hand wax pad last week after fk1000 wax applied. Castrol Super Clean full strength 4x spray work in and rinse. Wax pad dried almost like new, soft etc with a little wax left around the edges. I did a spray ceramic wax (I usually apply spray ceramic with wax pads) with that pad and the fk1000 was still in it. Which if you use Super Clean, know it is strong.
To remove from your rims I would do a mineral spirits dwell for 1 min and then spray with Full strength APC and wipe dry. Then hand wash with Full strength APC rinse well and dry.
To remove from your rims I would do a mineral spirits dwell for 1 min and then spray with Full strength APC and wipe dry. Then hand wash with Full strength APC rinse well and dry.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Just to reiterate, the test that Swanic did was coat a mirror with sealants/waxes and noted the beading. Then cleaned with Dawn, which "removed" everything as evidenced by no more beading. Then cleaned with IPA, and the beading came back, at least on the sealants. Premise being the Dawn (and by extension other surfactants, including APC) "clog" the sealant, and the IPA removes the surfactant residue. This was confirmed by the chemist who said when they mix sealants it`s almost impossible to remove the residue from the mixing containers.
I guess this stuff was on AGO, I`m not sure either of these are the actual thread I was thinking of, I didn`t really read through them:
LSP stripping
Sealant Test: PowerLock (+/-) BlackHole, Wolfgang DGPS, & BlackFire WD
I guess this stuff was on AGO, I`m not sure either of these are the actual thread I was thinking of, I didn`t really read through them:
LSP stripping
Sealant Test: PowerLock (+/-) BlackHole, Wolfgang DGPS, & BlackFire WD
wannafbody
wannafbody
I`ve gotten lazy. For wheels, it doesn`t get any easier than to use 303 Touchless Sealant. Spray and rinse with a hose and done.
I’m considering this route as well, at least for my wife’s and kid’s vehicles. Last week I was washing my son’s car and it started to rain lightly when I was drying his vehicle. I had sprayed some Glassparency Boost to use as a drying aid and it unfortunately was washed off by the rain somewhat. Well the next day my son said he really liked how the water beaded on his windshield.
Another Autopian recently mentioned Nanoskin SuperCharger in the gallon size as it is a 1:100 concentrate so even though it is $170, it makes so many bottles that it will last most non-pros the rest of their life.
. It isn’t as good as Gyeon Wetcoat maybe but good enough and great for the price.I`ve been meaning to follow up on this. I contacted Finish Kare. They said
"The film usually last 6 month."
"If you really want to get it off you can use a product like this Buy Allbrite TR2 – Tar and Adhesive Remover for Your Car or Truck Allbrite Car Care Products "
I wasn`t familiar with All Brite products. They didn`t have an SDS listed. So, I contacted them.
CA (VOC) compliant SDS
Solvent naphtha (petroleum), heavy aliph 60-80%
Xylene 30-60%
2-butoxyethanol 1-3%
Non-CA compliant SDS
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated light 50-65%
Solvent naphtha (petroleum), medium aliph 10-40%
Xylene 20-40%
2-butoxyethanol <1.3%
So, something with naptha and xylene should remove it.
Both nasty chemicals. :scared: Wear gloves.
"The film usually last 6 month."
"If you really want to get it off you can use a product like this Buy Allbrite TR2 – Tar and Adhesive Remover for Your Car or Truck Allbrite Car Care Products "
I wasn`t familiar with All Brite products. They didn`t have an SDS listed. So, I contacted them.
CA (VOC) compliant SDS
Solvent naphtha (petroleum), heavy aliph 60-80%
Xylene 30-60%
2-butoxyethanol 1-3%
Non-CA compliant SDS
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated light 50-65%
Solvent naphtha (petroleum), medium aliph 10-40%
Xylene 20-40%
2-butoxyethanol <1.3%
So, something with naptha and xylene should remove it.
Both nasty chemicals. :scared: Wear gloves.
wannafbody
wannafbody
I`d think any Tar and Wax remover from an auto supply store would work.
Dan
Well-known member
Mother`s step 1. Easy to find and one of the best LSP strippers there is. Can go right to a coating afterwards.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yeah, me too.
Much as I rave about FK1000P`s durability, I`ve never had any trouble stripping it on the rare occasions I needed to do so. Basically, "it`s just wax" IME and a Wax Remover/Paint Prep product/strong APC has always worked fine. Yeah, you can polish with something mild, just remember [INSERT usual admonition to never thin clear/paint unnecessarily].