how to fix split leather seat seam

M

medic

New member
I know the seams on my driver's seat were fine, but after getting the car back from the shop one of the seams in the was split (the fibers look like they were ripped out). The shop owner says it's normal wear, but I can't see how a seam can go from being fine to split across the seat in two days.



Anyway, what's the recommendation on how to fix the seam? Do I just glue them together or is there a way to restitch the seat? I just want to keep things from getting worse and more seams from getting stressed and breaking.
 
I would take it to a quality upholstery shop and see if they can re-stitch it, as long as the leather itself was not ripped I am sure they will be able to fix it for not that much.
 
Have a pro look at it, most can restitch a seam as long as the material isnt ripped and it is just the thread that failed.



Good luck
 
yeah dont even think about glue or leather repair kits...a shop should be able resew it good as new for not much $



if you want to lower the price remove the seat and dismantle what you can before taking it in
 
Even if the material failed by taking a slightly wider sew seam the seat can be repaired so that it will not be noticable. Like said above you can reduce the cost by removing the seat cover yourself but, depending on the attachment design (i.e. "hog rings") you might not have the tools and parts to put the cover back on correctly. If you would like to do this let me know and I can walk you through it. About ½ of the time you don't even have to remove the seat from the car.
 
Definitely get it restiched. This happened in my jag, and I resewed the seat myself...didn't even need to take it out of the car or off the frame. A quality upholstery shop can fix that no problem.
 
thanks. I checked the service manual and removing the seat doesn't seem too hard. now, I have to wonder, was using lexol 4x year enough to keep the leather supple enough for a sewing machine
 
medic said:
thanks. I checked the service manual and removing the seat doesn't seem too hard. now, I have to wonder, was using lexol 4x year enough to keep the leather supple enough for a sewing machine
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I don't think the seats on my jag had been cared for in YEARS, it was literally like cardboard. I hand-stiched mine, and the fix has been holding for about 4 years with no sign of problems with the leather. I can't imagine a machine having problems...after all, they do sew shoe leather. :laugh:



After I fixed the seats, I did a complete Leatherique refinish on them, so they are like cardboard no more.
 
There could have been any number of reasons for the failure. The bobbin could have run out and they didn't glue / tie the last / first stitch is the most common.
 
Titania, Can you provide suggestions on what materials (thread type, needle) you used to resew your seat seams?
 
If the thread is a top stitch (i.e. seen on the surface to one side of the seam) then use #138. Thread to join the seam 92#. These #'s are thread size. The larger the number, the larger and stronger the thread. If you are hand sewing then I would suggest just picking up color matching carpet thread which is a 138# typically. A trip to your local material store and some questions to the clerk will point you in the right direction. You might be able to get by with button thread if you double stiched the seam but it would only rank as a 69# thread. We used this as a serging thread. Stronger than off the shelf clothing thread but not by much.
 
v_tory said:
Titania, Can you provide suggestions on what materials (thread type, needle) you used to resew your seat seams?
Click to expand...



Sure...on the Jag, the seat seam I repaired had hidden stiching (one of the main front bolster seams on the seat that ran from the top front corner of the seat cushion to the center). So, the goal was to have none of the stiches show. I used a 2.5" curved upholstery needle like this one:



UP64_thumb.JPG




The thread I used was a .5 mm waxed cotton thread. The waxed cotton has the advantage of not slipping once you've got the seam started. Pull it tight, and it stays tight. I used a ladder stich, which is specifically designed to be invisible.



Hope that helps. :)
 
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