How to do interior simonizing on your own?

NJRonbo

New member
Hope my subject line is asking the right question.



I just bought a Cadillac SRX. I signed up for a $500

GlassCoat simonizing package that I am about to decline

a few days later (It was scheduled for next week).



Mainly, I wanted to simonize the Interior.



You see, I wanted an EBONY interior but it was not

available on the dealer's lot. I conceded to go with

a tan interior. Looks fine, but the biggest problem I

now face is scuff marks. I also hear, over time, jeans

can transfer their color to the seats.



I want to protect not only the seats from ink and scuffs,

but the carpet from stains, vomit and whatever.



So, how can I save $500 and do all of this myself?



What product(s) would you recommend for the seats

as some sort of coating that would protect it from the

elements I described above?



Same question for the carpet. Any brand of scotch

guard that you would recommend?





And, if someone here thinks that the Simoniz GlassCoat

process is actually worth it, let me know -- however I am

not holding my breath that anyone will.



Thanks everyone!
 
Welcome and Merry Christmas.



Generally the dealership stuff might not be bad, but it usually is way overpriced.



This topic gets covered quite often, so do some reading and you will find something that works for you.
 
Per Simoniz;

Simoniz has a Teflon-based process that is applied to the interior seats, floor mats and carpeting of your vehicle. This process protects your interior from stains from and consumable food product plus lipstick, make-up, vomit, crayons, urine, and blood. If the process fails, the warranty will repair or reupholster your vehicle carpeting or seats.



Sounds like some nice coverage, but anytime anyone mentions Teflon it totally turns me off.
 
David Fermani said:
..Sounds like some nice coverage, but anytime anyone mentions Teflon it totally turns me off.



NJRonbo- David said that because there's no *genuine* teflon-based technology/product that can be used for stuff like that; it's all ad-copy BS (and that's straight from Dupont, who nonetheless is happy to sell the rights to the word "teflon" to most anybody who pays for it). Real teflon just doesn't work that way.



And, if someone here thinks that the Simoniz GlassCoat

process is actually worth it, let me know -- however I am

not holding my breath that anyone will.



I'll risk some more of my Autopian Heresy here and say that *IF* the dealer will stand behind their stuff (and that's a big "if" IMO, even if you just through the required reapplication hoops, so read the small print) it might be worth going for. It'd take the whole issue off your hands (and mind ;) ).



It's like the lifetime paint sealant stuff; just because it's not right for me, or maybe for most of the people here at Autopia, that doesn't mean it's not right for *some* people. Not all such products are junk (AutoInt/ValuGard sells some good stuff along those lines that Autopians only knock when some dealer sells it ;) ) and a guarantee (a *real* one...) might be worth more than the upcharge to you, at least for your interior.
 
You guys have been great. Thanks for the help.



Actually, I am sort of stuck.



I signed on for the Simoniz GlassCoat with my

car contract. Now 4 days later I can't cancel it

since the contract has been submitted.



Therefor, I have no choice but accept the service.

Not the worst thing in the world as it will save me

the work of an initial wax job during winter months.

However, my fear is not knowing how good of a job

the dealer is going to do.



I do have a contract from the Simoniz company

detailing all the guarantees that come with the service.

So, essentially I am getting 7 years coverage inside

and out.
 
NJRonbo said:
Actually, I am sort of stuck.



I signed on for the Simoniz GlassCoat with my

car contract. Now 4 days later I can't cancel it

since the contract has been submitted.



Therefor, I have no choice but accept the service...



IME you can have anything on a new car sales contract changed, even at the last second. It's all up to the powers-that-be at the dealership and they can do pretty much anything they want to do ;)



I bet most people would be astounded at some of my new-car purchase experiences, which run the gamut from letting them prep it (yeah, *I* did that and it turned out fine), to taking vehicles "in the wrapper or no sale", to refusing vehicles at literally the last moment, to demanding [unusual compensation] for something I found displeasing. There's no gun to your head, and nothing is carved in stone. They're just confident that you won't do anything, uhm...rash. It's how badly do they want the sale/your business vs. how badly do you want the vehicle.



But OK, you do want the new vehicle so I bet all this is pretty small potatoes to you.






Not the worst thing in the world as it will save me

the work of an initial wax job during winter months.

However, my fear is not knowing how good of a job

the dealer is going to do.



Right on both counts. *IF* (perhaps a mighty big "if"!) they don't mar up the paint in the process, yeah, you'll get an OK wax job.



BUT, if they do mar up the paint you'll have one sorry looking new vehicle that'll require extensive work to rectify.




I do have a contract from the Simoniz company

detailing all the guarantees that come with the service.

So, essentially I am getting 7 years coverage inside

and out.



That might work out just fine for you; it does for a family friend.



[Repeat caveat about reading the small print.]
 
As Accumlator noted, that's rubbish that "because the contract is submitted" you now are stuck. That's just their tactic to keep you from getting cold feet. You have the car already, right? Just don't bring it back for the treatment.



Man, I hate dealers. I would have had more cars if not for how distasteful the process is.
 
There are two things I wish everyone would write into their new car contract and have the sales manager sign.



1. No sealant/interior package

2. No dealer emblem.



Make sure it is written and signed off on that you won't accept the car if either of the above is done.



Like the others have said, don't take the car back to any sealant package. They have all sorts of fine print that will prevent them from actually having to pay a claim should you have a problem.



Get yourself some all weather mats for the winter, you can purchase Scotch Guard at most auto parts stores (remember, you still have to wipe of spills ASAP, Scotch Guard type products really only buy you additional time until the liquid penetrates through to the carpet), put a white cotton towel down on the seats when wearing jeans or a belt and wax the paint with every change of the seasons.
 
Gents,



At this point I could use further assistance from you....



The Simonize job is paid for. It was added to the contract.



So, if I don't bring the car in for the job I am being charged anyway.



What is the best way to proceed with this?



I could call the head of the dealership. However he's going to fight hard

for the contract that was made.



I could call the credit card company and claim that I changed my mind

and the dealership is not letting me out of the contract. However, I don't

know legally how bound I am to the contract.



Mind you, this was added to the lease contract. Signed and submitted days ago.



If anyone has any ideas that you are assured will work I would love to

hear of them.



Thanks in advance
 
NJ,

It seems the norm is that you typically have 30 days to return the car if you are not satisfied with it. If you really don't want to pay the $500 for the treatment, tell them that you are going to return the car. Once they hear that, I think they may change their tune.
 
Talked to the dealership manager minutes ago.



He is looking to help, but the fact that I included it in

the lease contract has him scratching his head as to

"how."



Still, he promised to get back to me on Monday.



As I said, he did seem interested in helping.



If there is a problem I will threaten to return the

vehicle under the 30 day return policy. Hate to

go that route, but we'll see where this goes.



Meanwhile, I have Collinite on its way. Just worried

about applying it in winter temperatures.
 
The actual stuff might not be bad, but depends on who is applying it.



I worked at a dealership "new car- get ready" and wow..



For the Simonize we grabbed a applicator, put a little stuff on it, smeared it on the car in literally 2 minutes then took it off. Not worth it at all. No clay/hand wash/etc.



Good luck with the car though!
 
Scottwax said:
There are two things I wish everyone would write into their new car contract and have the sales manager sign.



1. No sealant/interior package

2. No dealer emblem.



Make sure it is written and signed off on that you won't accept the car if either of the above is done.



In many cases.. if the car was already on the dealer's lot...the dealer emblem will already will have been affixed to the car and the sealant/interior package "done" by the dealership. They will make a note of it by placing "documentation" next to the Mulroney sticker called (and ironically so) "Add-a-Tag: Protecting the Consumer"... more like "screwing he consumer"...



Another big buck item that costs very little is "dealer applied pinstriping".. a $20 roll of 3M pinstriping tape and about 15 minutes of work suddenly becomes a "value added package" for $200.



The customer has to be adamant about not paying for the "extras"
 
NJRonbo said:
Meanwhile, I have Collinite on its way. Just worried

about applying it in winter temperatures.



Unless you are 100% sure you won't be using or considering taking advantage of the Simoniz warranty, I wouldn't apply anything on top of their coating w/o 1st reading the contract and calling Simoniz to verify that it's ok. Some contracts don't allow this and it automatically gives them a loophole to void their warranty.



As far as you taking deliver of your vehicle with it already being treated....I'd politely threaten to return your purchase unless they cancel the warranty. The reason why the Sales Manager put you off until Monday is to buy them some time in case you give up and go away after more consideration. Even if your warranty paperwork was already sent in (which usually gets submtted at the end of the month anyways), they can easily call Simoniz and have it cancelled. The real expense behind these things aren't the product itself, but the warranty that is given.



I suggest buying some halogen lights in the meantime and looking at your paint with them in the garage with all other lights off. I'll bet any amount of money that there is marring all over the place that just got sealed over with Simoniz. If there is, make the dealer aware of it and ask them why they sealed in a new car finish that wasn't 100% perfect. More bargining power to get your money refunded. That worked on a client's 09 black Porsche that the dealer did the same thing with. They ended up refunding him the sealant purchase price and what I charged him to correct the paint.
 
David,



Perhaps I explained the situation wrong.



I took delivery of the vehicle already. The vehicle is not yet Simonized. I have an appointment scheduled for Wednesday.



I am hoping the dealership manager can help me get out of the contract. Will not know until Monday.



I was only going to apply Collinite if I got out of the Simonizing deal. Had no intention of applying wax prior to the Simonizing.



The one big thing I have in my favor here is the 60 day return policy. I can easily just return this vehicle and get a full refund. I am sure that will make them think twice about not refunding me $500 for the Simonize deal rolled into the lease.



Thanks for your reply.
 
Oh, okay. You have them in the palm of your hands if they haven't applied it yet. No worries. Scary thing is many dealers treat their entire inventory right after they get dropped off the delivery truck. Keep us posted...
 
DaGonz said:
Another big buck item that costs very little is "dealer applied pinstriping".. a $20 roll of 3M pinstriping tape and about 15 minutes of work suddenly becomes a "value added package" for $200.



Ha! I see you and raise you $500. I saw a car on the showroom floor with a tape pinstripe job and some of the roll vinyl stuff on the edges of the doors and the wheel lip opening...all for $749!! 40 minutes of $8/hr. labor and $30 worth of material...
 
DaGonz said:
In many cases.. if the car was already on the dealer's lot...the dealer emblem will already will have been affixed to the car and the sealant/interior package "done" by the dealership. They will make a note of it by placing "documentation" next to the Mulroney sticker called (and ironically so) "Add-a-Tag: Protecting the Consumer"... more like "screwing he consumer"...



Another big buck item that costs very little is "dealer applied pinstriping".. a $20 roll of 3M pinstriping tape and about 15 minutes of work suddenly becomes a "value added package" for $200.



The customer has to be adamant about not paying for the "extras"



You don't have to take a car off the dealer lot if it isn't EXACTLY what you are looking for. ;)
 
NJ,

If you really don't want the treatment and the dealership is giving you the runaround you have to use that 60 day return policy to your advantage. They are banking that you don't want the hassle of returning the car and will just give in and pay for the paint treatment.

Tell them straight up, "do you want to lose this lease over $500"? They are slime balls that try to rip anyone off they can to line their pickets. You have to be bold to get what you want. The sales manager knows he is not going to let you out of it but want you to think he is trying to do something about it.

For $500 you could get a flex 3401, some pads, some product and enough wax to last you a few years. Much better investment if you ask me.
 
Just to bring all of you up-to-date....



The dealership manager just called.



They will refund the $500. No hassles.



So it all worked out and I can wax my vehicle once the

weather warms up a bit.



...that is, unless anyone has any tips for

waxing a vehicle in 30 degree weather.
 
Back
Top