Has anybody painted their own vehicle?

imported_roadk

New member
i'm the rookie with the black 2001 jetta taking in everyone's advice. (thanks)

but i wonder if this porter cable 7424 is for me...

i've read many threads regarding the machine but is it safe for the beginner detailer?

and if so, can someone offer suggestions on how to use it correctly and what types of pads to use for 3M SMR, AIO, SG, Carn. Wax, etc..?

thanks again!

---thomas
 
The PC is a dual action polisher...not a buffer, it wont cause any swirl marks of its own. Yes its complestely safe for a novice to use it, just folow some giudelines...keep the pad flat to the panel, use a little pressure, only turn the machine on when its o the surface. Use it in sweeping, overlapping strokes. Many like to spread the product over the panel at a lower speed, then work the product in at a higher speeds. As for pads, get a velcro backing plate and the pad kit from CMA. Also, Meguiars has a tutoriol on their sire for the PC.
 
Thomas, you'll really appreciate the help in detailing the PC 7424 can give you; especially with a black car!



Most here don't use it to apply waxes/sealants, but when applying polishes and cleaners is where it really excels. I love my PC.
 
I think that a buffer would be direct-drive, meaning that the pad would go in a single, circular motion, like a drill, whereas the PC 7424 goes in a random orbit, kinda like a figure 8 but on a very small scale.
 
I'm starting to clear a spot on my garage shelf for my own 7424. It looks to be a very good tool to have.



Also ShowroomLincoln was very right on! Costaltool.com has the unit for about $115 US. and that is $40 cheaper then any other place I've been able to find!!!!!
 
and it is very safe and easy to work with.



I am hoping to try the direct drive buffers soon, but it needs patience and good knowledge of how the darn buffer works. One second too long, wrong pad, wrong compound, invites burns and horror pictures of the "pro" detailers with the things.



The PC is great, but don't expect miracles. The PC is designed to make a good car finish great. Neglected finishes need a rotary to bring it back to life, then a follow up with PC to set in that perfect shine.



Just my 2 cents

Jason
 
It's amazingly easy and safe for a rookie to use, but I experimented on a friends neglected Taurus first. It was a waste of time, as far as learning to use the PC, but of course, my friend was happy.
 
I actually got to try out a buffer on a spare hood when I visited Ron's shop here in Cinci. In the 20 minutes I had it, I definitely realized just how much practice it would take to get the necessary skills down. On top of that, you really need the surface temp gauge and the electronic paint thickness gauge to run those things safely. Lots and lots of fun though :)
 
thanks everyone for the advice.

i'm ordering one tommorrow and i'll share my experience when i try it for the first time.



does anyone have suggestions for what pads/bonnets to use and where to get them?

--thomas
 
so darn lucky to be so close to Ron. I think I will attend one of his PrepExcellence classes next year. I just see when I am free to make that trip up there.



roadk - I got the DM-KIT from CMA. It has one gray finishing pad for the layering of layerable product (Klasse SG, wax), I rarely use this but good to have. Two white polishing pads (Klasse AIO, a polish.) A yellow cutting pad ( More agressive polish.) A wool bonnet for a cusion and non clear coat polishing pad, two terry bonnets. See if you can sub two terry bonnets for two MF bonnets, to bad I did not do this.



Jason
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by JasonC8301 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>so darn lucky to be so close to Ron. I think I will attend one of his PrepExcellence classes next year. I just see when I am free to make that trip up there.

roadk - I got the DM-KIT from CMA. It has one gray finishing pad for the layering of layerable product (Klasse SG, wax), I rarely use this but good to have. Two white polishing pads (Klasse AIO, a polish.) A yellow cutting pad ( More agressive polish.) A wool bonnet for a cusion and non clear coat polishing pad, two terry bonnets. See if you can sub two terry bonnets for two MF bonnets, to bad I did not do this.

Jason [/b]</blockquote>
Jason, don't be surprised if you see me as a classmate. :D
 
Very Cool. I hope I can make it out there and be off from school at the same time. I can not ruin my perfect attendance. I just can not.



I'll wait a few months and see what my program is looking like, if I can fit this class into it.
 
The answer to your question is <strong class='bbc'>Yes[/b].

I was a rookie when I got mine and it made life a lot easier on my black cars! Can't imagine not having one now.
 
This question is aimed towards the low budget do-it-yourself crowd, although some bodyshop insight would be appreciated. I'm wondering what kind of results I could expect if I took the time to paint my own car, on the cheap. Super cheap. ~$600-$800 cheap. Would I be better off doing the prep work myself and sending it to a shop to be painted?

I have a red '99 Nissan Sentra, not the most beautiful car in the world, not by a long shot, but I love the little piece of ****! I have a new engine and transmission waiting in the wings until next summer, and until recently I've always just put up with my paint being shitty. The paint is sun faded pretty bad, it had some vinyl pin stripes on it when I got it four years ago, when I removed them there was a significant difference between where the paint was exposed and where it was not. I also have some problems with the clear coat, it doesn't like staying on the car. Occasionally it will chip off in large chunks. There is only a single small incidence of rust on the body, an inch long spot on one of the rear fender edges, easily fixable. There are also plenty of small dings and dents here and there, nothing a little plastic filler bondo wouldn't solve.

I'm not afraid of a project, and could take a week off work to get the whole shebang done if necessary. I'm really not looking for a concourse finish, but would like something a little fresher and in one piece, I put on about 20K miles a year and plan on having the car for at least another 5 years or so. It looks alright from about 10' back, but it drives me crazy. So whaddya guys think, anybody else done this before?

Here are a few pictures for reference...

3902736532_120b2aa2aa.jpg


3901963543_42ac03aa10.jpg


3762514510_69f94d97de.jpg
 
I've done two paint jobs "color change" but I had the help of my father. I'm guessing you will have a good $500 just in materials.

Do you have a paint gun and an air compressor? have you even done any painting before?
 
No, and no!

Well, no automotive painting. I understand the basics of rattle can painting, consistent distance, smooth strokes, overlapping edges, etc.

I wouldn't go down to metal if I could avoid it, just sand, bondo, sealer, base, and clear. I would probably do this in my two car garage and get a small compressor and paint gun from Harbor Freight. I plan on respraying the engine bay once I get it emptied of all the noisy bits in there, and depending on how that goes I may attempt to do the entire car.

I wouldn't do a color change, I'd stick with the OEM red, maybe with a slight pearl added to it.


The pictures do the car much more justice than reality offers, they are, err, enhanced via lightroom editing.
 
I can't believe I'm saying this but...you may be better off doing to body work yourself and just paying Macco to do the actual spraying. That or get someone who has lots of experience come do it for you. The guys at Macco do know how to lay the paint down (at least they should), they just cut corners on prep and use cheap materials...much like detailing, prep is key.

Be sure to remove all the trim, moldings, lights, handles ect, so that you're not taping any of them off. Tape lines kill a paint job!

Here is a restoration job I'm working on with my old man right now. The entire car is being torn down so that there will be no tape lines.

IMG_2394.jpg
 
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