Grease for polisher

A

Astouffer512

Member
Was talking to my maintenance supervisor at work today about grease for my polishers and he handed me a tube of this said I could have it. Apparently they are switching grease and have some extra.

Will this be acceptable grease for a DA polisher?
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People have been using Wolf`s Head Red

I wonder if the Chevron stuff would work, though. I was just at Home Depot looking at the grease they carry.
 
OP, I’m on my phone, so searching what type of grease you were given isn’t very easy, so I will leave you with this: How does that grease compare to White Lithium Complex? White Lithium Complex is designed for bearings/gears that experience high speed, high load, and high temperatures, for sustained periods of time. It’s the go to grease for many many bearing/gear applications where a fluid bath is not feasible. Some may considered WLC a little overkill for a polisher, but grease is the cheapest form of insurance.
 
Here is a related thread on repacking grease in a polisher started by Mary B:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/mach...ease-repacking-opinions.html?highlight=grease

By the way, the NLGI 2 on the side of the tube is the viscosity rating for this grease and is designed for extreme-pressure/stress applications (as in coming together, like gears under extreme loads, which I assume the "EP" notation stand for) OR hi-temp applications (like disc brakes or hot environments, like machine bearings in ovens or dryer machinery) and is thicker than NLGI 1. NLGI 2 has the consistency of peanut butter. Just remember, this thicker grease will also induce some amount of "drag" on the polisher motor. If you operate the polisher for extended periods of time (say, 4 hours of constant use) or use it every day as a professional detailer may do, this thicker grease might be a good application.
 
I was at the auto parts store last night for some power steering return hose, looking through the aisles (already hit the detailing section, of course) when I ran into the grease section. Then I remembered I wanted some for my 3401.

So I was reading through some of the dozen there (including Mystic, Valvoline, Lucas, etc).

Ended up getting the Lucas Red and Tacky. Was it the "polymers" that sold me on it? Or that its drop point was 540* which was higher than Valvoline`s 500*? Who knows.

Not sure when I`ll actually put it in, though. Have some projects that have priority. I can open later and take a photo.
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I`ve got Royal Purple High Performance 01312 running in a lot of mine that I`m keeping an eye on, including my cheap Chinese Hyet(Goplus) 21mm and one of my favorites - Chechnya CHE-S15 that are both running buttery smooth. I threw the Lucas Red N Tacky in the Dewalt rotary which seems to be working well over the last 4 months. My GG6 I could not get that gear assembly out for the life of me, spindle lock much have been barely stripped preventing me from being able to unscrew the assembly, anyone ran into that issue?
 
I dont think they had Royal Purple, or I would have maybe got that one instead. Or debated.

Haven`t tried with the GG6, though I want to replace a bearing in the gg3. Might as well de-grease it

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I`m finding this thread kinda interesting...I`ve never greased a Polisher in my life (nor, AFAIK, had issues from not doing so) and/but I`m sure not saying that`s OK!

I *have* lubed the Felt Ring on the Flex 3401 a few times, but I just used Snake Oil (yeah, actual product name) for that.
 
Is the Royal Purple High Performance 01312 grease THE consensus of you Autopians to use on buffer/polisher gears??

On a related note about grease, some greases are incompatible with one another and will cause corrosion due the chemical reaction between them. This is especially true in grease used for bearings. I only know about this working at a helicopter manufacturer. When helicopters crash, usually a Federal Aviation Agency (FAA) will do an investigation. In a helicopter crash in Alaska (not involving a helicopter for the company I worked for), it was determined that the crash occurred when the rear rotor blade failed to rotate and seized up. Closer examination determined the failure was caused by corroded bearings due to an acidic reaction between two different greases used for maintenance lubrication of the bearings. Needless to say, there is a reason why placards are placed on critical parts with grease manufacturer and specifications used for maintenance of these parts. Might not seem important on bearings of a lawnmower or farm equipment, but it is on aviation equipment.
 
I haven`t heard of other guys running Royal Purple 01312 in the polishers, just me so far. It`s what I was using around the cars so I figured I`d try it out for a long term run. This is an aluminum complex grease as opposed to a lithium based one. I was grabbing it for around $10 a tube at the parts stores locally, much more expensive than regular greases, but results are good so far with no issues and it`s most likely overkill in the polishers compared to the Lucas Red N Tacky and Wolf`s Red.
 
Lonnie said:
...On a related note about grease, some greases are incompatible with one another and will cause corrosion due the chemical reaction between them. This is especially true in grease used for bearings.... Needless to say, there is a reason why placards are placed on critical parts with grease manufacturer and specifications used for maintenance of these parts. Might not seem important on bearings of a lawnmower or farm equipment, but it is on aviation equipment...[and other things we trust our lives to]...
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Good on you for posting that.
 
JustJesus said:
I dont think they had Royal Purple, or I would have maybe got that one instead. Or debated.

Haven`t tried with the GG6, though I want to replace a bearing in the gg3. Might as well de-grease it

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Can you then get a Bearing for the GG3? Or will you have to outsource from some 3rd party company who sells Bearings?
 
Accumulator said:
I`m finding this thread kinda interesting...I`ve never greased a Polisher in my life (nor, AFAIK, had issues from not doing so) and/but I`m sure not saying that`s OK!

I *have* lubed the Felt Ring on the Flex 3401 a few times, but I just used Snake Oil (yeah, actual product name) for that.
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haha. Snake Oil :)

I haven`t had issues, either. At least, I don`t think so. My PC did seem to "see out" some melted grease over the summer last year. I picked it up and felt it all...sort of wet...around the venting area. Noticed a bit of dark grease around there. Figured the hot summer months in the non-insulated garage did a number on it. But, after taking it apart last night, not so sure. Some grease looks fine


Loach said:
.. but results are good so far with no issues and it`s most likely overkill in the polishers compared to the Lucas Red N Tacky and Wolf`s Red.
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I think much of what we do is overkill :)


Accumulator said:
Good on you for posting that.
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Agreed. I was actually tempted to mix Red N Tacky with the OEM grease in the PC, as I couldn`t figure out how to remove the "innards" of the gear mechanism. [shrug]

MarkD said:
Can you then get a Bearing for the GG3? Or will you have to outsource from some 3rd party company who sells Bearings?
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I sure hope I can find some bearings. I highly doubt Griot`s would use some form of proprietary size, so I suspect I`ll be able to find a replacement online somewhere. I wasn`t intending to get the bearing from Griot`s anyway.
 
JustJesus said:
....
I sure hope I can find some bearings. I highly doubt Griot`s would use some form of proprietary size, so I suspect I`ll be able to find a replacement online somewhere. I wasn`t intending to get the bearing from Griot`s anyway.
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Google "Bearing Interchange Chart". It is what we in engineering used to find obsolete bearings (IE, bearings from manufacturers no longer in business or bearings no longer being made by the original manufacturer) OR cheaper off-shore bearing manufacturers (AKA, reverse-engineered or knock-offs) to cross-reference bearing part numbers from various bearing manufacturers. Most "better" bearing have some bearing number stamped or etched the side of the race to identify them in some way. If not, the bearing is REALLY cheap and the only way to find a suitable replacement is to measure the inside diameter and outside diameter and thickness with a digital calipers in millimeters and find an identical-sized "upgrade" from a bearing manufacturer. SKF offers some of the best bearings in the business, but you pay for it (think Porsche quality with Porsche price or Snap-On tools versus Harbor Freight tools) ). You will see how many different bearing manufacturer there are on this chart. Many of the long-time USA companies are no longer in business due to off-shore competition (like New Departure and Hyatt).

Since we are on the subject of bearings, I will caution those of you who are having wheel bearings replaced on vehicles at non-dealer repair shops OR if you do it yourself. Be careful of the bearing that you buy. With low quality knock-offs available at a very reasonable price, saving quite few bucks for a bearing might not be in the best interest of vehicle safety and your well-being. ASK to see the bearing AND the box it came in at a non-dealer repair shop if they tell you that they can install one at a very cheap price quote. Imitation and counterfeit bearings are hard to spot, however, just like counterfeit money. One way is if all the printing on the box is in Chinese subscript and there is no English on it other than "Made in China." or if the bearing looks rusty already, even though it has lubrication grease or corrosion-inhibiting oil on it.
 
Lonnie- Hey, you`re posting all sorts of good info on this thread :D

JustJesus said:
haha. Snake Oil :)
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Yeah, kinda clever marketing there IMO (that really is the name of it). Very good, and *CLEAN* lube that doesn`t seem to attract/retain dirt all that badly and that lasts/stays put well for such a light-viscosity product. Tiny little bottle with a great applicator-tip, made primarily for firearms back in maybe the `90s. Dunno whether they still make it....

I haven`t had issues, either. At least, I don`t think so. My PC did seem to "see out" some melted grease over the summer last year. I picked it up and felt it all...sort of wet...around the venting area. Noticed a bit of dark grease around there. Figured the hot summer months in the non-insulated garage did a number on it. But, after taking it apart last night, not so sure. Some grease looks fine..
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Huh, I`m a bit surprised by that "dark grease around vents". Mine got used in a shop that often got into the triple-digits but I`ve never seen that.

I think much of what we do is overkill :)
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Heh heh, that gets my vote for Understatement of the Month.
 
Accumulator said:
Lonnie- Hey, you`re posting all sorts of good info on this thread :D
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Yes! Thanks Lonnie



Accumulator said:
Yeah, kinda clever marketing there IMO (that really is the name of it). Very good, and *CLEAN* lube that doesn`t seem to attract/retain dirt all that badly and that lasts/stays put well for such a light-viscosity product. Tiny little bottle with a great applicator-tip, made primarily for firearms back in maybe the `90s. Dunno whether they still make it....
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haha... I dig the name. Not sure I`d buy it without the approval of one such as yourself, though.



Accumulator said:
Huh, I`m a bit surprised by that "dark grease around vents". Mine got used in a shop that often got into the triple-digits but I`ve never seen that.
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Here are some pics.

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